UKC

Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

36m.

Rockfax Description
The first half of this route gives some of the best steep crack climbing around. Higher up the crack is much wider and easier to climb. Climb the twin thin cracks in the lower wall, with increasing difficulty and some haste - don't place too much gear - until a last difficult pull up and left gains a rest. Climb the wide crack above moving left at the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance, J.Lamb 04/May/1979.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 101Pembroke Extremes , Theo's Pembroke ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , The Local Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 26 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Do this before the jug before the crux goes, it’s definitely creaking…
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do this before the jug before the crux goes, it’s definitely creaking…
hotsteve33 15 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best pitches anywhere, absolutely fantastic, and definately no big gear needed.
Show beta
βeta: One of the best pitches anywhere, absolutely fantastic, and definately no big gear needed.
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Easy to blow it by placing too much gear in the bottom half (I did!) and pumping out before you hit the crux...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy to blow it by placing too much gear in the bottom half (I did!) and pumping out before you hit the crux...

Logged Ascents

348 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 46
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Trevallen Pillar - Original Finish

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Trevallen Cliff)

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