Tangerine Dream*** E4 6a
[Billy Wayman on Tangerine Dream, St Govan's, Pembroke, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
The first half of this route gives some of the best steep crack climbing around. Higher up the crack is much wider and easier to climb. Climb the twin thin cracks in the lower wall, with increasing difficulty and some haste - don't place too much gear - until a last difficult pull up and left gains a rest. Climb the wide crack above moving left at the top. © ROCKFAX


FA. P.Whillance 4.5.79 04/May/1979

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers.

Photo: Billy Wayman on Tangerine Dream, St Govan's, Pembroke © jon
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 138 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Tough! Nasty film of grease to it as well. Was too pumped to find a good way to do the crux so resorted to heaving on a shallow two finger lock.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/15

1st triend to lead. Didn't have it in me. Placed too much gear, but also not strong enough / enough stanima. Didn't find the rests I needed.
RosePearson - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/15 with Harry Fogg

pearson9596 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Ian Faulkner

Caught off-guard by the crux and was more run-out than I would have liked. Fun route - first Pembroke E4!
ian d f - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Michael P

Ed Booth - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/15 with Angus Kille, Adam Booth

got so pumped leaving the steeper section I could hardly place any gear. brilliant climb!
anguskille - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/15 with Adam Booth, Ed Booth

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/15 with Angus Kille, Ed Booth

brices - Lead rpt - 16/May/15 with Edd, Llinos

had 27 rests, 2 sections way too hard, brilliant route though
mike lawrence? - 16/Apr/15 with FatRob

Too rubbish at jamming and not fit enough. Made it to the last hard sequence before the rest, pumped out of my mind and blew it. Great sustained climbing
tim newton - Lead dog - 04/Apr/15 with rachel slater

Rachel Slater - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/15 with Tim Newton

NuclearNev - 2015

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2015

ian bryant - 2015

Sarah Black - Lead rpt - 13/Sep/14 with Paul Black

irish paul - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Sarah Black

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/14

Ruddy tough but stunning route on immaculate orange rock.
tash - 2nd - 30/Aug/14 with ali k

Apharri - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Dave Wharton

Pippa - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/14 with mike

Made a right meal of this. Got on it tired, got pumped, downclimbed. Tried again, rested on gear. Came down and then send it. Gutted I blown the onsight
Ramon Marin - Lead RP - 07/Jul/14 with viki harvey

Hidden - Lead β - 17/May/14

Found my flow on this and felt like i crused up it with load of first time gear placements
brices - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Llinos

Justin T - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Rachel

Amazing.
Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Justin Timms

Hard & greasy! Fell off the crux first go. Pulled the ropes and just clung on for my second go.
quiffhanger - Lead RP - 21/Apr/14

Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 21/Apr/14 with Adam Lincoln

Adam Lincoln - Lead β - 21/Apr/14 with Rick Kirby

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Apr/14

Stefan_Morris - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Edmundmorris

Following two failed leads on previous days ending in falls. One top rope to clean the gear.
Ed morris - Lead RP - 05/Oct/13 with stefan

pie_eater_pete - Lead dog - 08/Sep/13 with bwestwood

bwestwood - 2nd - Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Jun/13

Pumpy!
Alice Thompson - 2nd - 29/Jun/13 with Michael Porter

got so pumped, down-climbed from crux to the floor. 10 mins rest, then fired to the top. Good!
markalmack - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with gwen

soph - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/13 with will oates

Brilliant Route, very pumpy. A good idea to place cams low down to prevent nuts ripping.
colesy - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Sasha Coombes

khawk - Lead dog - 01/Sep/12 with DT

2nd try
redjerry - Lead - 24/Aug/12

Fell off crux, ripped cam (thought it was bomber!), decked, broke pelvis, airlifted... Thanks everyone for being awesome! If anyone finds my partner's gear on the route, please get in touch. Might be a while before I can get out of bed long enough to have another go
jacobjlloyd - Lead dnf - 14/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12

sam820 - 2nd - 08/Apr/12 with Murdoch

Hidden - 2nd β - 07/Apr/12

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

Hidden - 2012

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11 with Charles Moreton

Had to take a couple of rests at the crux while fiddling the gear out.
cem - 2nd dog - 30/Aug/11 with Chris Parson

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/11

Was raining and just couldn't hold on...that's my excuse anyway.
thomasadixon - Lead - 08/Aug/11 with Mike

feilx - 2nd rpt - 04/Jul/11 with Andy L

Awesome crack climbing but hard! Powerful 6a move when pumped at about half hight. Tricky to read on the onsight
Glyn - Lead RP - 30/May/11 with Amy

Hidden - 2nd - 28/May/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Apr/11

GrantB - 2nd - 28/Apr/11 with ally smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

Ground-up 2nd go, lacked intent on the crux just hangin around not really thinking about it, got pumped. Boshed it 2nd go, amazing quality of finger-crack climbing, really top end E4!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead RP - 02/Apr/11 with alex mason

miastacey - 2nd - Apr/11 with Bob Smith

janegallwey - Lead dog - Apr/11

Paul Boggis - 2nd - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - Aug/10

soph - Lead dog - Aug/10 with Lindy Smith

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Jul/10

Ricky Rocks - Lead β - 22/May/10

Fell, like everyone else at the crux. Took some nice air.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead dog - 03/May/10 with Aaron, max

barni - Lead dog - 19/Apr/10 with Liam fleming

Luke Brooks - Lead β - 19/Apr/10

Pown - 2nd - 09/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Oct/09

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/09 with Ed Brown

fell off just at the change in angle after an optimistic slap, pulled ropes and did the same again, so rested on gear and dispatched the rest, excellent route with good jams all the way.
Alex Mason - Lead dog - 03/Jun/09 with Nick Rabb

feilx - Lead RP - 28/Mar/09 with Andy L

mynyddresident - 2nd - 2009

Got pumped and fell off at crux, should have tried harder!
feilx - Lead dog - 15/Jun/08 with Phil Davis

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/May/08

simply stunning. very close to the onsight but that bit at the top of the crack came as a surprise. the upper wall is also great.
ksjs - Lead dog - 07/May/08 with goosebump

Brown - Lead dog - 01/Jan/08 with Harry Westaway

Hidden - Lead β - 18/Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd β - 17/Aug/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - Jul/06

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead dnf - Aug/04

Hidden - 2nd β - Aug/04

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead rpt - Jun/04 with Viv

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2004

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/02 with KM

Billg - Lead O/S - 2000

tuftynick - 2nd - 2000

Tim M - Lead dog - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/99

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 04/Apr/99 with James Ibbertson

Hidden - 1999

innes - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Jon Bracey

sadams - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/97 with Team Midlands

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/96

Hidden - Lead dog - Jun/95

Gregory - Lead dog - 1995

Hidden - Lead - Aug/94

shoulders - TR - 17/Apr/94 with andy sharp, pete lewis, chrisevans

craig h - Lead O/S - 1994

whispering nic - 2nd - Aug/93 with Graham Iles

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - Apr/93

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 10/Sep/92 with Rick Kerr

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/92

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/92

jasper11 - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 31/May/89 with Tudor Griffiths

Hidden - Lead - May/89

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 24/Mar/89 with George MacIntyre

Stoney Boy - 2nd - 01/Apr/88 with Kel Toplis, Steve Wigmore

jasper11 - Lead - 1988

andy gittins - 1987

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 26/Jun/86 with Sean Myles

shark - Lead dnf - 31/Mar/86 with Sue Wilson

keefe - 29/Dec/85

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/85

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/85

shark - Lead dog - 12/Apr/85 with Triss Kenny

Thin in places.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1985 with Shaun Derry

shark - 2nd - 19/Sep/84 with Steve Aisthorpe

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 25/Apr/83 with Dave Kenyon

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/83 with Phil Ralph

steve L - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/82 with Lyndsey

Mark Kemball - Lead - 12/Apr/82 with Dave Abbey

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gurumed, Ollie B, mike mo, RFWilkie, JRae, Ed Booth, Adam Booth, Dan Lane, mattyork2

Voting
Total votes cast 86
hard E50 of 31
E50 of 31
easy E50 of 31
hard E424 of 31
E45 of 31
easy E41 of 31
hard E31 of 31
E30 of 31
easy E30 of 31
hard 6b0 of 30
6b0 of 30
easy 6b0 of 30
hard 6a11 of 30
6a16 of 30
easy 6a2 of 30
hard 5c1 of 30
5c0 of 30
easy 5c0 of 30
3 Stars24 of 25
2 Stars1 of 25
1 Star0 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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