18m.
This route climbs the crack line emanating from the ledges down right of Comfortably Numb to jugs at the first thin horizontal break. The initial crack is technical bold and committing, protected by a small offset wire, then a friend #1 after the difficulties and a rock #3 by the jugs. From here traverse right to gain the crack near the arête (two DMM #3 nuts). This is followed by some desperate moves to small crimps on the right (#5 nut placed with difficulty near the top of the crack). Move right to gain the arête and finish up this in a fantastic position.
G. Lennox Aug/2010.
Ticklists
Hardest Scottish Trad , Good New Routes in Scotland , 4 Star Scottish rock
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Route of Interest
The Trial
Grade: E8 6c ***
(Long Haven Quarries)