45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Sustained and well protected where it matters and easily as good as Mysteries. Start at a small scoop left of Mysteries.
1) 20m. Climb the scoop then step left onto the wall and move up to a hole. Pull strenuously around the bulge and continue to Mysteries.
2) 25m. Climb up and right above the stance. Either traverse directly rightwards to a flake or step down and swing right on a good hold then move up to the flake. Move right again then climb up to a long ledge. Climb straight up the wall above moving left or right to finish. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 10.5.80 10/May/1980

Ticklists: UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Russell Birkett 05/Sep AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. 2 good pitches. Great exposure.

with Tim Whitaker
billb ?/Sep AltLd O/S

1st pitch suspense and second pitch Hysteria. Brilliant!

benkelsey 14/Aug 2nd O/S

Was too trashed from the castle to lead - right arm was just about useless. Beefy first pitch and ace second with some cool architecture towards the top. That sea comes in fast!

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 14/Aug Lead G/U

Such a good route P1 & 2, rested halfway on P1 as i didnt trust my gear but found another piece so lowered down to do ground up!

Ed Babs 12/Aug AltLd O/S

P1. More stenuous placing the gear for the bulge than pulling through it!

with AlexD
AlexD 12/Aug AltLd O/S

Led p2, complete contrast to pumpy first pitch, nice exposed wall climbing, very steady - laced it up!

with Ed
Joughton 08/Aug AltLd O/S
climbomaniac 10/May AltLd O/S

Lead P1. OMG. what a fight. A very wet start probably made me a little tense, because after faffing about in the steep section below the bulge for way tool long, my subconscious must have decided to start squeezing the living juice out of the holds. It wasnt long until I found myself in great desperation on the bulge, slapping ultrapumped for the saving hold to finally stand up on the feet. But what a fun climb! Also the traverse of P2 feels absolutely awesome, exposed on a magnificent wall!

quiffhanger 10/May AltLd

Way better than mysteries. Led P2. Glad he volunteered to do the first pitch - green, wet & greasy or in Nicholas' words: "this is exactly what I imagined climbing to be like in Britain".

Hidden 19/Apr Lead O/S
squicky 22/Jun/14 2nd dog

P2 after P1 of Mysteries. Yeah, had a bit of an epic on this.... Fell at the start of the traverse after expending all my energy getting gear out and was left hanging somewhere over Muy Caliente. Prussiced /hauled up to next piece of gear and climbed clean from there. Wouldn't advise prussicing as a leasure activity.

with John
Hidden 16/May/14 AltLd O/S
Justin T 04/May/14 AltLd O/S


with Rachel
Rachel Slater 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1.

Adam Booth 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

I did first pitch. Brilliant!

Ed Booth 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

led top pitch.

Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
willoates 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

great climbing, i lead the 2nd pitch.

with Dave Rudkin
soph 05/May/13 AltLd
with Alex Hughes
Alex Mason 04/May/13 Lead rpt

Led P2.

with Jemma Powell
LRob ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Ed morris 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

led pitch 2. Missed the gear slot on the traverse leaving an unnesesary 30 foot runout. So chuffed to get up this, the bottom pitch is definately the meatier one.

with Adam Bevan
Howard Lawledge 03/Jun/12 -
Hidden 07/May/12 2nd O/S
jacobjacob 07/May/12 Lead O/S

Pitch 2. Good fun, some hollow sounding jugs towards the top, used some crimps instead.

dan gibson 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
beci tointen ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with my uncle carl
valecoastclimber 17/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -

just escaped the tide, fastest E4 pitch i've ever led

ian caton 29/Aug/10 AltLd

i'd wanted to do this for a long time. but was a tad disapointed. is that really e4? it's got to be a full grade easier than big groove gogarth.

with alex
Rob Pitt 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with steveE9
Hidden 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 13/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
Hidden 02/May/09 AltLd O/S
morganator 12/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Rich Cross and Es Tressider
Hidden 31/May/08 2nd
Alex Mason 06/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. Amazing, atmospheric and varied. first pitch is goey, second has harder moves. well protected throughout although suspect rock on the top 1/4.

with Alan Steele
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
dannyboy83 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
feilx 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
AlexRenshaw 27/Aug/06 Lead
Steve Crowe ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with KM
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
JulesV ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with John Helme
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 10/Sep/05 2nd rpt
with Nic Sellers
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 21/May/05 Lead O/S
with Tuffty Nick
Hidden 07/May/05 Lead O/S
Gus 30/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/03 Lead O/S
Billg 15/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Harry
Tim M ??/2000 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 31/May/98 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton 30/May/98 AltLd O/S

I led the top pitch. I remeber the first pitch being nails hard

Hidden 23/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Gregory ?/Jul/97 AltLd

I lead first pitch - great route.

with guy exley
Hidden 19/Apr/97 Lead
sadams 29/Mar/97 AltLd
with John Boyle
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/87 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1987 -
shark ?/Jul/86 AltLd dog
with Steve Long
steve L 10/May/80 2nd
with Charlie, Pat
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
theomoore, Adam Booth, drcorbasisgod, jonnybull, Hidden, datoon, Hidden
High E5
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High E4
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High E3
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High 6a
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Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
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