Mysteries*** E3 5c
[On the compelling line of Mysteries (E3 5c, 5b), Stennis Ford, Pembroke, 2 kb]45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
After a hard start the most famous route in the Ford gives steady HVS climbing up the impressive scoop-line. The lack of grade consistency slightly detracts from the route and it is a fairly low E3 but the start shouldn't be underestimated since it is a little bold. Start below the long scoop-line.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the scoop with difficulty then follow the ramp up leftwards for 10m and belay where it is most comfortable.
2) 5a, 25m. Continue up the scoops, past a small bulge, to the horizontal break. Move left for 5m then climb past some holes in the wall to a corner on the left. Finish up this. © ROCKFAX

FA. P.Littlejohn 13.11.77 13/Nov/1977

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: On the compelling line of Mysteries (E3 5c, 5b), Stennis Ford, Pembroke © John2
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This climb is in 151 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Lead first pitch which was cheeky but great climbing. Finished top pitch direct. Good interesting climbing all the way
anguskille - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Mike Grant

pete johnson - AltLd - 12/Aug/15 with Dave Rumney

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 12/Aug/15 with Pete Johnston

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/15

The start seems to have got harder. The crucial nut (#4) is directional and needs care or a pumped E3 hopeful could come a cropper. Did the finish of From a Distance instead of completing the traverse. Makes a more exciting steep 5b ish finish
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead rpt - 31/Jul/15 with Viv

lead with 1 fall (dog) in 1986. still felt like hard/bold move near start.
Gregory - 2nd - 19/Jul/15 with nic sellars, rob grant

Adam24B - Lead - 11/Jul/15 with Christopher Bowman

I led the first pitch which had a tough sequence. The gear looked good but was pre placed by Paul who did not test it. Paul went onto something hard on the second pitch which made it more exciting than it should have been. Not an amazing route.....more a great experience.
Mark Grist - AltLd O/S - 23/May/15 with Paul Tanton

I failed on the first pitch and then got a bit lost at the end of the top pitch. Strayed onto Point Blank! A comedy of errors. Glad to get to the pub.
PaulTanton - AltLd rpt - 23/May/15 with Mark Grist

malx - Lead O/S - May/15

P2 finished up "From a Distance", this made the second pitch more worthwhile at E2ish
wi11 - AltLd β - 08/Apr/15 with Mike Goldthorp

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/15

Fell off at the top of the groove seconding the first pitch, lead the top pitch clean
Jack93 - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/15 with Jim Hulbert

P1. Fell off the top move in the groove but went again and felt fine. Damp, greasy conditions didn't help!
spidermonkey09 - Lead G/U - 21/Mar/15 with Jack Knight

lead the crux pitch, thinking it was going to be piss as a warm up. Suddenly I was gripped, the gear at the start is not amazing, and it felt E3 to me, not HVS as some people say. Regardless, incredible route, great outing, fanstastic rock, go and do it.
Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/14 with ciaran tracey

Took the easy lead on the second pitch and found it a lot of fun, once I'd warmed up from the rookie mistake of not taking enough clothing down into the ford to belay!
Ciro - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Ramon

dav - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Gill B

P1 only. Hard start then fine.
squicky - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with John

Led P1
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with B.Brewer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/May/14

Justin T - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Rachel

Lead P2.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Justin Timms

Sarah Black - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Paul Black

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Sarah Black

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Rick Kirby

Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Phil Dowthwaite

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14

Rich Kirby - AltLd rpt - 18/Apr/14 with Adam Lincoln

Led P1. Reachy, technical climbing at the beginning of P1, enough gear but it feels as though if it gets weighted the wrong way it would pull. Great climbing throughout though, with the top being an ace HVS. Was a little damp at the bottom - should have listened to Guy!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/14 with GuyVG

P2, very nice. P1 has quite a nasty crux in my opinion.
GuyVG - AltLd - 17/Apr/14 with The enemy

owain86 - Lead RP - 15/Apr/14 with Chris

phil64 - AltLd - Apr/14 with tom livingstone

mike mo - 2014

Lead 2nd Pitch
steve.warrington - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Nik Goile

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13

Lots of rests at the big move to easy ground.
metal arms - Lead dog - 01/Sep/13

Seconded the crux pitch
John Nuttall - AltLd - 01/Sep/13 with Jon

Matt Cooke - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Sam Taylor

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/13 with andy sharp

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13

Alice Thompson - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Michael Porter

First E3
climbingsheep - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Jake Young, Mike Watson

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Climbingsheep, Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Simon Palmer

soph - AltLd rpt - 25/May/13 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Pippa - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Jamie Thornley

mountain_jay - 2nd - 05/May/13 with Pippa Froggatt

lead second pitch
Fran S8 - AltLd - 04/May/13 with john nightingale

Done in 1 monster pitch. Def E3 given the start: 5m of poorly protected climbing on slippy and slightly dubious looking rock, culminating in a tricky crux!
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Kate

The_Boy_ODwyer - Lead dog - 27/Apr/13 with Colin Harvey

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Apr/13

The obvious line of weakness on the first crag I ever saw in the range, great to get on it! Cool line and good positions, great stuff.
AJM - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Ali Morris

LRob - Lead O/S - Apr/13

jcw - 2013

al99 - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Luke Thomas

Fell of on the tricky move, holds were wet and not properly warmed up. Led top pitch which felt 5b.
Ed morris - AltLd - 16/Aug/12 with Adam Bevan

Led 1st pitch, Nick led the 2nd
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Nick Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 07/May/12

Pitch one, soaking wet, horrendous.
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 07/May/12

dan gibson - AltLd rpt - 05/May/12 with richard lade

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

Nicola - 2nd β - 02/Jul/11 with Lee

One short(ish) rest.
mountain.martin - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11

Easy pitch for me thanks!
haydng - AltLd O/S - 14/May/11 with Rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11

GrantB - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with ally smith

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

owenH - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

led P1 led P2 previously 04/May/09 w. Harry
Ed Babs - Lead β - 27/Sep/10 with Harry

billb - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Mark Warnet

Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Ed Booth

Oh dear
harold walmsley - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/10 with Colin Struthers

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/10

Disappointed to rest on this, was a bit too slimy and technical for a warm up, felt easy after a quick rest! Should have gone for it really. Nice varied climb in a great position, Em managed to go off route on top pitch and find the hardest climbing possible, more like 5b for sure! So hot today (28degrees) we went to the beach after this one!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 23/May/10 with Emily

Nice to finally climb a route in the ford, a good wandering climb.
Ricky Rocks - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/09

Dave Bond - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Tim Banton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Rob Kennard - May/09 with Jane Weir, Andy Schofield

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 21/Sep/08

Tim M - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 02/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie

morganator - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Rich Cross

alek - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Ant Schwirtz

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Alec (UBMC)

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/08

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/07

Lead first pitch, technical, reachy moves to leave the vertical groove, after this hvs/E1. Worthwhile.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Thomas Martin

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Felix Coxwell

feilx - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Dan Barbour

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/06 with martina

Seconded first pitch and rested on the crux - well pumped!! Lead second pitch clean though
Urgles - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/06 with Fiend (on multipitch!?!)

Bern - 2006

Kev Little - Lead O/S - 2006

ellis - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with Will Woodhead

Tim Steward - Lead - 22/May/05 with Nick Lambert

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Gus - Lead O/S - 30/May/04

Climbed previously with Simon Gee
Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/04 with KM

whispering nic - Jul/03 with lee byrnes

LC - AltLd O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/03

ian caton - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with stewart

NeilGriffiths - 27/Aug/01 with Adrian Pedley

Went a bit off route at the top.
Rock Fairy - AltLd - Aug/01 with david

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/99

Hidden - 1999

WB - Lead O/S - 1999 with Guy

GuyM - 1999 with will

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 02/May/98 with Muir Morton

ChrisJD - Lead - 31/May/97 with rc

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/95 with jon

neilh - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/95 with mark griffiths

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/93

Rich Kirby - AltLd - Apr/92 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/91

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/91 with Neil Thompson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 29/Mar/89 with George MacIntyre

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1989

Billg - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/87 with Dave Gregory

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/87

shark - AltLd - 31/May/87 with Rich, John, Dave from London

andy gittins - 1987

keefe - 17/Feb/86

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jul/85

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Mark Kemball - Lead - 23/Jul/83 with Dave Abbey

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/83 with Phil Ralph

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 12/Apr/82 with Andy Wild

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Apr/82

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
theomoore, Ian Jones, Joe-98, jonnybull, tobydunford, Ched, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 106
hard E40 of 38
E40 of 38
easy E40 of 38
hard E31 of 38
E326 of 38
easy E39 of 38
hard E22 of 38
E20 of 38
easy E20 of 38
hard 6a0 of 38
6a0 of 38
easy 6a1 of 38
hard 5c9 of 38
5c27 of 38
easy 5c1 of 38
hard 5b0 of 38
5b0 of 38
easy 5b0 of 38
3 Stars11 of 30
2 Stars15 of 30
1 Star4 of 30
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