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Mysteries** E3 5c

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[Nick Gillet on Mysteries, 3 kb]45m, 2 pitches. After a hard start the most famous route in the Ford gives steady HVS climbing up the impressive scoop-line. The lack of grade consistency slightly detracts from the route and it is a fairly low E3 but the start shouldn't be underestimated since it is a little bold. Start below the long scoop-line. 1) 5c, 20m. Climb the scoop with difficulty then follow the ramp up leftwards for 10m and belay where it is most comfortable. 2) 5a, 25m. Continue up the scoops, past a small bulge, to the horizontal break. Move left for 5m then climb past some holes in the wall to a corner on the left. Finish up this. © ROCKFAX
FA. P.Littlejohn 13.11.77 13/Nov/1977

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: Nick Gillet on Mysteries © www.climbpembroke.com
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 119 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Rick Kirby

P1
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Phil Dowthwaite

Rich Kirby - AltLd rpt - 18/Apr/14 with Adam Lincoln

Led P1. Reachy, technical climbing at the beginning of P1, enough gear but it feels as though if it gets weighted the wrong way it would pull. Great climbing throughout though, with the top being an ace HVS. Was a little damp at the bottom - should have listened to Guy!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/14 with The Hypocrite

P2, very nice. P1 has quite a nasty crux in my opinion.
GuyVG - AltLd - 17/Apr/14 with The enemy

owain86 - Lead RP - 15/Apr/14 with Chris

Lead 2nd Pitch
steve.warrington - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Nik Goile

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13

Lots of rests at the big move to easy ground.
metal arms - Lead dog - 01/Sep/13

Seconded the crux pitch
John Nuttall - AltLd - 01/Sep/13 with Jon

P1
Matt Cooke - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Sam Taylor

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/13 with andy sharp

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13

Alice Thompson - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Michael Porter

First E3
climbingsheep - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Jake Young, Mike Watson

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Climbingsheep, Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Simon Palmer

soph - AltLd rpt - 25/May/13 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Pippa - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Jamie Thornley

mountain_jay - 2nd - 05/May/13 with Pippa Froggatt

lead second pitch
Fran S8 - AltLd - 04/May/13 with john nightingale

Done in 1 monster pitch. Def E3 given the start: 5m of poorly protected climbing on slippy and slightly dubious looking rock, culminating in a tricky crux!
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Kate

The_Boy_ODwyer - Lead dog - 27/Apr/13 with Colin Harvey

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Apr/13

The obvious line of weakness on the first crag I ever saw in the range, great to get on it! Cool line and good positions, great stuff.
AJM - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Ali Baylay

LRob - Lead O/S - Apr/13

jcw - 2013

al99 - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Luke Thomas

Fell of on the tricky move, holds were wet and not properly warmed up. Led top pitch which felt 5b.
Ed morris - AltLd - 16/Aug/12 with Adam Bevan

Led 1st pitch, Nick led the 2nd
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Nick Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 07/May/12

Pitch one, soaking wet, horrendous.
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 07/May/12

dan gibson - AltLd rpt - 05/May/12 with richard lade

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

Nicola - 2nd β - 02/Jul/11 with Lee

One short(ish) rest.
mountain.martin - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11

Easy pitch for me thanks!
haydng - AltLd O/S - 14/May/11 with Rob

Ally Smith - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with GrantB

GrantB - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with ally smith

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

owenH - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

led P1 led P2 previously 04/May/09 w. Harry
Ed Babs - Lead β - 27/Sep/10 with Harry

Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Ed Booth

Oh dear
harold walmsley - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/10 with Colin Struthers

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/10

Disappointed to rest on this, was a bit too slimy and technical for a warm up, felt easy after a quick rest! Should have gone for it really. Nice varied climb in a great position, Em managed to go off route on top pitch and find the hardest climbing possible, more like 5b for sure! So hot today (28degrees) we went to the beach after this one!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 23/May/10 with Emily

Nice to finally climb a route in the ford, a good wandering climb.
Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/09

Dave Bond - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Tim Banton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Rob Kennard - May/09 with Jane Weir, Andy Schofield

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 21/Sep/08

Tim M - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 02/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie

morganator - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Rich Cross

alek - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Ant Schwirtz

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Alec (UBMC)

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/08

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/07

Lead first pitch, technical, reachy moves to leave the vertical groove, after this hvs/E1. Worthwhile.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Thomas Martin

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Felix Coxwell

feilx - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Dan Barbour

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/06 with martina

Seconded first pitch and rested on the crux - well pumped!! Lead second pitch clean though
The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/06 with Fiend (on multipitch!?!)

Bern - 2006

ellis - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with Will Woodhead

Tim Steward - Lead - 22/May/05 with Nick Lambert

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Gus - Lead O/S - 30/May/04

Climbed previously with Simon Gee
Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/04 with KM

whispering nic - Jul/03 with lee byrnes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/03

ian caton - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with stewart

NeilGriffiths - 27/Aug/01 with Adrian Pedley

Went a bit off route at the top.
Rock Fairy - AltLd - Aug/01 with david

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/99

Richard White - 1999 with Rob Kennard

WB - Lead O/S - 1999 with Guy

GuyM - 1999 with will

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 02/May/98 with Muir Morton

ChrisJD - Lead - 31/May/97 with rc

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/95 with jon

neilh - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/95 with mark griffiths

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/93

Rich Kirby - AltLd - Apr/92 with Andy Mackay

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/91

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/91 with Neil Thompson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 29/Mar/89 with George MacIntyre

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1989

Billg - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/87 with Dave Gregory

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/87

shark - AltLd - 31/May/87 with Rich, John, Dave from London

andy gittins - 1987

keefe - 17/Feb/86

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jul/85

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Mark Kemball - Lead - 23/Jul/83 with Dave Abbey

Mike Owen - 06/Apr/83 with Phil Ralph

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 12/Apr/82 with Andy Wild

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Apr/82

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
brices, Hidden, Hidden, jonnybull, tobydunford, Ched, Ramon Marin, a_radiohead_fan

Voting
Total votes cast 81
hard E40 of 29
E40 of 29
easy E40 of 29
hard E30 of 29
E320 of 29
easy E37 of 29
hard E22 of 29
E20 of 29
easy E20 of 29
hard 6a0 of 29
6a0 of 29
easy 6a0 of 29
hard 5c6 of 29
5c22 of 29
easy 5c1 of 29
hard 5b0 of 29
5b0 of 29
easy 5b0 of 29
3 Stars8 of 23
2 Stars11 of 23
1 Star4 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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Style of ascent

Lead42 of 119 (35.3%)
Followed16 of 119 (13.4%)
Alt Leads47 of 119 (39.5%)
Unknown14 of 119 (11.8%)

'Climbed'42 of 119 (35.3%)
clean O/S66 of 119 (55.5%)
clean β2 of 119 (1.7%)
clean rpt3 of 119 (2.5%)
clean RP1 of 119 (0.8%)
dogged4 of 119 (3.4%)
dnf1 of 119 (0.8%)