Pembrokeshire > Stennis Ford >
 
Mysteries** E3 5c

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[Nick Gillet on Mysteries, 3 kb]45m, 2 pitches. After a hard start the most famous route in the Ford gives steady HVS climbing up the impressive scoop-line. The lack of grade consistency slightly detracts from the route and it is a fairly low E3 but the start shouldn't be underestimated since it is a little bold. Start below the long scoop-line. 1) 5c, 20m. Climb the scoop with difficulty then follow the ramp up leftwards for 10m and belay where it is most comfortable. 2) 5a, 25m. Continue up the scoops, past a small bulge, to the horizontal break. Move left for 5m then climb past some holes in the wall to a corner on the left. Finish up this. © ROCKFAX
FA. P.Littlejohn 13.11.77 13/Nov/1977

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: Nick Gillet on Mysteries © www.climbpembroke.com
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 100 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Bart Shaw - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Rich

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Simon Palmer

soph - AltLd rpt - 25/May/13 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Pippa - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Jamie Thornley

lead second pitch
Fran S8 - AltLd - 04/May/13 with john nightingale

Done in 1 monster pitch. Def E3 given the start: 5m of poorly protected climbing on slippy and slightly dubious looking rock, culminating in a tricky crux!
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Kate

The_Boy_ODwyer - Lead dog - 27/Apr/13 with Colin Harvey

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Apr/13

The obvious line of weakness on the first crag I ever saw in the range, great to get on it! Cool line and good positions, great stuff.
AJM - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Ali Baylay

LRob - Lead O/S - Apr/13

al99 - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Luke Thomas

Fell of on the tricky move, holds were wet and not properly warmed up. Led top pitch which felt 5b.
Ed morris - AltLd - 16/Aug/12 with Adam Bevan

Led 1st pitch, Nick led the 2nd
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Nick Smith

conorcussell - 2nd - 07/May/12

Pitch one, soaking wet, horrendous.
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 07/May/12

dan gibson - AltLd rpt - 05/May/12 with richard lade

north country boy - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with James Riley, Bob Hickish

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

Nicola - 2nd β - 02/Jul/11 with Lee

One short(ish) rest.
mountain.martin - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11

Easy pitch for me thanks!
haydng - AltLd O/S - 14/May/11 with Rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11

GrantB - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with ally smith

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

owenH - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

led P1 led P2 previously 04/May/09 w. Harry
Ed Babs - Lead β - 27/Sep/10 with Harry

Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Ed Booth

Oh dear
harold walmsley - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/10 with Colin Struthers

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/10

Disappointed to rest on this, was a bit too slimy and technical for a warm up, felt easy after a quick rest! Should have gone for it really. Nice varied climb in a great position, Em managed to go off route on top pitch and find the hardest climbing possible, more like 5b for sure! So hot today (28degrees) we went to the beach after this one!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 23/May/10 with Emily

Nice to finally climb a route in the ford, a good wandering climb.
Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/09

Dave Bond - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Tim Banton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Rob Kennard - May/09 with Jane Weir, Andy Schofield

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 21/Sep/08

Tim M - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 02/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie

morganator - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Rich Cross

alek - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Ant Schwirtz

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Alec (UBMC)

Climbed with becky too, second pitch felt more 5b than 5a.
loundsy - AltLd O/S - 17/May/08 with marcus

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/07

Lead first pitch, technical, reachy moves to leave the vertical groove, after this hvs/E1. Worthwhile.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Thomas Martin

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Felix Coxwell

feilx - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Dan Barbour

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/06 with martina

Seconded first pitch and rested on the crux - well pumped!! Lead second pitch clean though
The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/06 with Fiend (on multipitch!?!)

Bern - 2006

ellis - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with Will Woodhead

Tim Steward - Lead - 22/May/05 with Nick Lambert

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Gus - Lead O/S - 30/May/04

Climbed previously with Simon Gee
Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/04 with KM

whispering nic - Jul/03 with lee byrnes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/03

ian caton - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with stewart

NeilGriffiths - 27/Aug/01 with Adrian Pedley

Went a bit off route at the top.
Rock Fairy - AltLd - Aug/01 with david

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/99

Richard White - 1999 with Rob Kennard

WB - Lead O/S - 1999 with Guy

GuyM - 1999 with will

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 02/May/98 with Muir Morton

ChrisJD - Lead - 31/May/97 with rc

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/95 with jon

neilh - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/95 with mark griffiths

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/93

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/92

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/91

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/91 with Neil Thompson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Mar/89

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1989

Billg - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/87 with Dave Gregory

Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/87 with Chris Pound

shark - AltLd - 31/May/87 with Rich, John, Dave from London

andy gittins - 1987

keefe - 17/Feb/86

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jul/85

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Mark Kemball - Lead - 23/Jul/83 with Dave Abbey

Mike Owen - 06/Apr/83 with Phil Ralph

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 12/Apr/82 with Andy Wild

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Apr/82

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, jonnybull, tobydunford, Ched, Ramon Marin, a_radiohead_fan

Voting
Total votes cast 72
hard E40 of 26
E40 of 26
easy E40 of 26
hard E30 of 26
E317 of 26
easy E37 of 26
hard E22 of 26
E20 of 26
easy E20 of 26
hard 6a0 of 26
6a0 of 26
easy 6a0 of 26
hard 5c5 of 26
5c20 of 26
easy 5c1 of 26
hard 5b0 of 26
5b0 of 26
easy 5b0 of 26
3 Stars7 of 20
2 Stars9 of 20
1 Star4 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead38 of 100 (38.0%)
Followed13 of 100 (13.0%)
Alt Leads36 of 100 (36.0%)
Unknown13 of 100 (13.0%)

'Climbed'37 of 100 (37.0%)
clean O/S55 of 100 (55.0%)
clean β2 of 100 (2.0%)
clean rpt2 of 100 (2.0%)
dogged3 of 100 (3.0%)
dnf1 of 100 (1.0%)