A great route with a fine, open first pitch and a sensational and brutal final roof-crack. Start at the base of a gully, right of a corner.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the steep, crozzly wall 4m right of the corner. Move right at 10m to gain the arete, climb it to a ledge and a short corner on the right. Climb this and step left to a tree belay.
2) 10m. Climb the short, easy nose of rock above to gain the large ledge. Walk rightwards along this and belay beneath the steep crack.
3) 5c, 6m. Climb the awkward and often-wet boulder problem crack to a ledge.
4) 6a, 14m. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Getting established in the top crack is the crux, after which a good fight on the headwall leads to a tough top-out.
4a) The Neb - E2 5c, 18m. The original finish may provide a useful escape. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Tiptoe rightwards under the roof until a smeary move gains the corner round to the right. Follow this to finish. © Rockfax
Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, 50 cracks to Squamish, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Jake Young||11/Oct||AltLd dog||
Lead the first pitch which was pretty cool though there was a fair bit of suspect rock. Nick then got us through to the beginning of the roof crack. It is from this point on I feel I owe nick a lot of belays for putting up with my numerous attempts to “smash it out” my closest attempt getting me to where the crack becomes a slabby crack (nearly there?). Having spent a lot of time dangling, I eventually handed the reins over to nick whom cruised it.
The top crack is pure evil! Not my idea... Lovely P1 - 5b face climbing and would be a two star E1 or may be E2 on its own (was a bit run out but may be because I just wasn't looking that hard for gear). The short steep crack on P2 is vicious. I went wrong, tried to down climb and jumped off a short way so not exactly clean. Got it second go, using a finger lock rather than a painful jam helped. The starting crack on P3 was similarly hard. This time actually fell off but got it second go. The main event though is the evil overhanging finishing crack. I knew I'd have no chance but the initial horizontal section was actually fine as the jams were ok and there were foot holds. Getting established on the overhanging headwall was beyond me though... The crack got too thin for me to get decent hand jams (excuses!) and the jam I was on was really painful (wuss!). Should have taped up! Had to aid it for a couple of moves, then got back into the jamming and it was still hard but at least doable! Won't be in a rush to do this one again...
Couldn't get my feet round the lip. Desperate. I also thought i was good at cracks, but got utterly spanked. Got cocky and thought taping up was for pussies. Bad idea. shreaded my hands.
|dan gibson||21/May/13||AltLd O/S||
led the top three cracks in one, a jamming pathway!
|Alice Thompson||21/May/13||2nd dog||
Can't hand jam so I found this rather hard..
Before I tried this route, I thought I was alright at jamming... Did it as two - Felix led the stunning first half up to the three tiered crux cracks. Jumped off the second crack onto the ledge and fell over, weighting the rope, but got through it in the end, to the crux. Totally shut down pulling through the lip of the roof - could get both hands through round the lip but not high enough to get a foot in. We escaped up Neb in the end. Properly hard, this! Tried a fair few times but was defeated, hands and ego in tatters. I absolutely loved getting spanked by this route (even if it did make me cry a little bit), and plan to train every night in secret and return for round two. Tremadog, this isn't over...
just when i thought i knew how to jam
WOW amazing. hand are sore now. went up fell off a few time lowered down rested pulled ropes then got it clean. hard E3 maybe E4 for effort.
Top pitch only. Fell once, the did it from the hands off rest. Nails!
Just last pitch
Took the 1st and 3rd pitches clean. Dogged the last pitch to hell on second after Nathan had aided out - pretty meaty!
|Southern Mark Smith||??/1995||-|
Led the roof crack, hands over the top, stopped to tell my second I was there, relaxed - foot slipped -off! Had to do the finish again.With John Aylewood I think
|Mike Owen||14/Oct/77||2nd β||
A really hard struggle, considering I thought I could jam reasonably well, but absolutely safe.