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Neb Direct*** E4 6a

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[Neb Direct and Eric's, 3 kb]A great route with a fine open first pitch and a sensational and brutal final roof-crack. Start at the base of a gully, right of a corner. Photo on page 18. 1) 5b, 30m. Climb the steep, crozzly wall 4m right of the corner. Move right at 10m to gain the arete, climb it to a ledge and a short corner on the right. Climb this and step left to a tree belay. 2) 10m. Climb the short, easy nose of rock above to gain the large ledge. Walk rightwards along this and belay beneath the steep crack. 3) 5c, 6m. Climb the awkward and often-wet boulder problem crack to a ledge. 4) 6a, 14m. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Jam easily through this and pull round the lip. Fight up the crack in the headwall to a tough top out and thank the Lord it was that short! 4a) The Neb - E2 5c, 18m. The original finish may provide a useful escape. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Tiptoe rightwards under the roof until a smeary move gains the corner round to the right. Follow this to finish. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, 50 cracks to Squamish, Cracks And Corners To Greatness.

Photo: Neb Direct and Eric's © Peakology
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Couldn't get my feet round the lip. Desperate. I also thought i was good at cracks, but got utterly spanked. Got cocky and thought taping up was for pussies. Bad idea. shreaded my hands.
markalmack - Lead dog - 13/Apr/14 with james marjot

Neil - Lead dog - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

led the top three cracks in one, a jamming pathway!
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 21/May/13 with alice thompson

Can't hand jam so I found this rather hard..
Alice Thompson - 2nd dog - 21/May/13 with Dan Gibson

Before I tried this route, I thought I was alright at jamming... Did it as two - Felix led the stunning first half up to the three tiered crux cracks. Jumped off the second crack onto the ledge and fell over, weighting the rope, but got through it in the end, to the crux. Totally shut down pulling through the lip of the roof - could get both hands through round the lip but not high enough to get a foot in. We escaped up Neb in the end. Properly hard, this! Tried a fair few times but was defeated, hands and ego in tatters. I absolutely loved getting spanked by this route (even if it did make me cry a little bit), and plan to train every night in secret and return for round two. Tremadog, this isn't over...
jacobjlloyd - AltLd dnf - 19/Jun/11 with Felix

just when i thought i knew how to jam
feilx - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/11 with Jake

Glyn - Lead dnf - 01/Mar/11 with Barni

WOW amazing. hand are sore now. went up fell off a few time lowered down rested pulled ropes then got it clean. hard E3 maybe E4 for effort.
barni - Lead rpt - 01/Mar/11

Top pitch only. Fell once, the did it from the hands off rest. Nails!
Luke Brooks - Lead - 01/Mar/11 with Glyn Hudson

mwatson - 2011

Just last pitch
Brown - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/10 with James T

Hidden - Jun/10

TomPR - Lead - 30/May/10

Hidden - AltLd dog - 04/Oct/09

Took the 1st and 3rd pitches clean. Dogged the last pitch to hell on second after Nathan had aided out - pretty meaty!
Jez - AltLd dog - 04/Oct/09 with NJSharp

top pitch wet.
mark s - Lead - 02/May/09 with andi t

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/May/07

Richard White - 1995

Big Rik - 2nd - 1995 with Dave Body

Led the roof crack, hands over the top, stopped to tell my second I was there, relaxed - foot slipped -off! Had to do the finish again.With John Aylewood I think
David Smith - AltLd - 1988 with john Aylewood

ewar woowar - 1987

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/85

keefe - 17/Apr/84

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/82

Hidden - 1980

Mike Owen - 14/Oct/77 with Mark Stokes

A really hard struggle, considering I thought I could jam reasonably well, but absolutely safe.
petemeads - Lead - 1977 with Steve Taylor

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, AndrewJamesCherry, mattrm, Hidden, stevebarratt, Huw Cropper, DavidR, Hidden, Hidden, hans solo, saillord, timo.t

Voting
Total votes cast 24
hard E50 of 3
E50 of 3
easy E50 of 3
hard E40 of 3
E43 of 3
easy E40 of 3
hard E30 of 3
E30 of 3
easy E30 of 3
hard 6b0 of 11
6b0 of 11
easy 6b1 of 11
hard 6a8 of 11
6a1 of 11
easy 6a0 of 11
hard 5c1 of 11
5c0 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
3 Stars8 of 10
2 Stars0 of 10
1 Star2 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead11 of 35 (31.4%)
Followed4 of 35 (11.4%)
Alt Leads6 of 35 (17.1%)
Unknown14 of 35 (40.0%)

'Climbed'23 of 35 (65.7%)
clean O/S2 of 35 (5.7%)
clean rpt1 of 35 (2.9%)
dogged6 of 35 (17.1%)
dnf3 of 35 (8.6%)