Barbarella*** E5 6a
[Edmund Morris on the Trevallen classic Barbarella , 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
30m. A strenuous and well-protected crack climb to the break, with a technical and slightly bold direct finish for dessert. Start below a groove and prominent crack, in the centre of the wall. Climb the groove to a flake on the left. Make a hard move into the crack above which gives sustained climbing to the big break. Pull over onto the upper wall, place some wires, and climb it to the top via some tricky and committing moves. © ROCKFAX


FA. P.Littlejohn 30.4.80 (Direct) G.Gibson 16.3.86 30/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50.

Photo: Edmund Morris on the Trevallen classic Barbarella © www.climbpembroke.com
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 76 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Nails. Pumped out on the lower crack then second go had to dig _very_ deep on the upper section. Went direct as didn't realise there was an alternative. Great but easily 6b and not overly geared. Ended up crimping crozzles well above some pretty mediocre gear. Spicy!
quiffhanger - Lead G/U - 19/Apr/15 with Adam Ryan

Utterly nails! The top wall is so hard.
adam 24 - 2nd dog - 19/Apr/15 with Ross

Sat on gear at the crux, great route will be back for round 2
brices - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/15 with Llinos

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/15

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/14

GU. Not a warm up. Harder work than orb
nathanlee - Lead - 14/Sep/14 with Neil Mawson

Ground Up. One fall near start.
Apharri - Lead - 27/Aug/14 with Dave Wharton

Direct finish every time
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Misha - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/14 with Tim Newton

1 rest at the crux, didn't have the fitness after taking way too long to put the gear in for the crux move. Did the rest clean with the left hand finish which actually climbs well and makes sense despite looking like a bit of an escape in the guide. One to come back to and hopefully do clean with the direct finish.
tim newton - Lead dog - 21/Apr/14 with misha nepogodiev

Bugger. A bit greasy and a bit weak. Powerful and short-lived. Will return!
Tom Livingstone - Lead dnf - 21/Apr/14 with Phil Dowthwaite

Glad to settle an old score. Some lateral thinking required on crux. Class.
Rich Kirby - Lead β - 19/Apr/14 with Adam Lincoln

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Rick Kirby

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Maddy

I've got myself a project! Hard move at the bottom, great jams and then exciting at the top.
Julian Cooper - Lead dog - 14/Apr/14 with Stuart Knott

Original finish up the route to the left as it looked easier.
i_a_coops - Lead β - 2014 with Jacobjacob

Fell at crux move, tricky! Will be back for this!
Tom Livingstone - Lead dog - 16/Aug/13 with Rob Durran

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/13

This was a tricky one.. but a lot of fun
Alice Thompson - Lead dog - 03/Jul/13 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/13 with alice thompson, michael porter

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Got pretty pumped when the flake wasn't the rest I was expecting. Just had enough in the tank for the next hard move. Thankfully the moves get steadily easier.
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Remus

rested putting the bottom gear in. Pulled the ropes and did it
piken - Lead dog - 31/May/13

left finish
steve_yo - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with sam ring

Failed again, many years after initially trying it. Boxed after previous few days. Having previously aided my way up it decided to lower off
morganator - Lead dnf - 05/May/13 with Stan Halstead

barni - Lead - 01/Apr/13 with Oates

Nails, got mega cold on the belay so pulled on some wires through the crux. pretty steady after the crux moves.
Duncan Campbell - 2nd dog - 31/Mar/13 with Robbie

Barni had placed the wires protecting the crux, no doubt i could have placed them though. good route and the direct finish is great and technical!
willoates - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with barni

2nd try
redjerry - Lead - 26/Aug/12

Onsighted the direct finish. Had led the LH finish previously, with a fall lower down. The direct is much more satisfying.
switch - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Jo Bertalot

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Glyn Hudson

Glyn - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Luke

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Ed Booth

original finish
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Adam Booth

Hidden - 2nd β - 06/Apr/12

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12

Tried the day before and it felt nails (didn't finish), flashed easy first time today. Direct finish felt tough though.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 14/Aug/11 with Mike

feilx - Lead RP - 04/Jul/11 with Andy L

mwatson - 2011

Ground-up. Fell off reaching the crack proper, A hard move, then steadier but powerful moves to an easy left hand finish (direct was wet.) Not top 50 imo.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 22/Aug/10 with Laura Perry, Mikey G

dav - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Gill B

Hidden - 2nd dog - Aug/08

feilx - Lead dog - 12/Jul/08 with Andy L

onsighted this ok to the break. opted for the direct finish but became confused, committed and horrifically pumped. Fell off trying to retreat back to the break... gutted.
Ram MkiV - Lead dog - 12/Sep/07 with reeve

Hidden - Lead dog - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd β - 29/Jul/07

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005 with Steve Adams

buzby78 - Lead - 08/May/02

sadams - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/98 with Pete Bukowski

direct finish.
innes - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Jon Bracey

Clean ascent after a failed attempt a year or so earlier. Original finish (leftwards traverse).
jfletcher - Lead RP - 22/Jun/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/96 with Al Willoner

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 12/May/96 with James Tracey

Billg - Lead O/S - May/94 with Keith Sharples

craig h - Lead - 1994

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/93

Dave Rumney - 2nd - 29/Aug/92

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Jun/91 with Garath Bloor

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/90

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 28/May/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Paul Clarke - 1990 with Paul Greenland

DDDD - Lead rpt - 1989

shark - Lead - 23/May/87 with Seb Grieve

keefe - 13/Jul/86 with Johnny Adams

shark - Lead dnf - Nov/85 with Richard O Mara

Mike Owen - 17/Aug/85 with Ian Carr

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/85

steve L - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/84 with Clive Curle

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 26/Apr/83 with Dave Kenyon

Hidden - Lead dog - 1983

Mark Kemball - Lead - 07/Sep/82 with Paul Clark, Steve Finch

Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/82

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
brices, Andrew Nelson, Ollie B, Alice Thompson, Ricky Rocks, Ed Booth, feilx

Voting
Total votes cast 50
hard E60 of 17
E60 of 17
easy E60 of 17
hard E59 of 17
E55 of 17
easy E52 of 17
hard E41 of 17
E40 of 17
easy E40 of 17
hard 6b0 of 17
6b1 of 17
easy 6b1 of 17
hard 6a7 of 17
6a8 of 17
easy 6a0 of 17
hard 5c0 of 17
5c0 of 17
easy 5c0 of 17
3 Stars16 of 16
2 Stars0 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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