Pembrokeshire > Trevallen Cliff >
 
Barbarella*** E5 6a

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[one hand on top with everything to play for, 4 kb]A strenuous and well-protected crack climb to the break, with a technical and slightly bold direct finish for dessert. Start below a groove and prominent crack, in the centre of the wall. Climb the groove to a flake on the left. Make a hard move into the crack above which gives sustained climbing to the big break. Pull over onto the upper wall, place some wires, and climb it to the top via some tricky and committing moves. © ROCKFAX
FA. P.Littlejohn 30.4.80 (Direct) G.Gibson 16.3.86 30/Apr/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50.

Photo: one hand on top with everything to play for © the clamp
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 44 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Failed again, many years after initially trying it. Boxed after previous few days. Having previously aided my way up it decided to lower off
morganator - Lead dnf - 05/May/13 with Stan Halstead

barni - Lead - 01/Apr/13 with Oates

Nails, got mega cold on the belay so pulled on some wires through the crux. pretty steady after the crux moves.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - 2nd dog - 31/Mar/13 with Rob Greenwood

Barni had placed the wires protecting the crux, no doubt i could have placed them though. good route and the direct finish is great and technical!
willoates - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with barni

2nd try
redjerry - Lead - 26/Aug/12

Onsighted the direct finish. Had led the LH finish previously, with a fall lower down. The direct is much more satisfying.
switch - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Jo Bertalot

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Glyn Hudson

Glyn - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Luke

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Ed Booth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

north country boy - 2nd β - 06/Apr/12 with Bob Hickish

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12

Tried the day before and it felt nails (didn't finish), flashed easy first time today. Direct finish felt tough though.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 14/Aug/11 with Mike

feilx - Lead RP - 04/Jul/11 with Andy L

mwatson - 2011

Ground-up. Fell off reaching the crack proper, A hard move, then steadier but powerful moves to an easy left hand finish (direct was wet.) Not top 50 imo.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 22/Aug/10 with Laura Perry, Mikey G

dav - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Gill B

Hidden - 2nd dog - Aug/08

feilx - Lead dog - 12/Jul/08 with Andy L

onsighted this ok to the break. opted for the direct finish but became confused, committed and horrifically pumped. Fell off trying to retreat back to the break... gutted.
Belier - Lead dog - 12/Sep/07 with reeve

Hidden - Lead dog - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd β - 29/Jul/07

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005 with Steve Adams

sadams - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/98 with Pete Bukowski

direct finish.
innes - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Jon Bracey

Clean ascent after a failed attempt a year or so earlier. Original finish (leftwards traverse).
jfletcher - Lead RP - 22/Jun/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/96 with Al Willoner

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 12/May/96 with James Tracey

Billg - Lead O/S - May/94 with Keith Sharples

craig h - Lead - 1994

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/93

Dave Rumney - 2nd - 29/Aug/92

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

DDDD - Lead rpt - 1989

shark - Lead - 23/May/87 with Seb Grieve

keefe - 13/Jul/86 with Johnny Adams

shark - Lead dnf - Nov/85 with Richard O Mara

Mike Owen - 17/Aug/85 with Ian Carr

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 26/Apr/83 with Dave Kenyon

Hidden - Lead dog - 1983

Mark Kemball - Lead - 07/Sep/82 with Paul Clark, Steve Finch

Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/82

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Rick hard Rock, Hidden, Ed Booth, feilx, loundsy, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard E60 of 15
E60 of 15
easy E60 of 15
hard E57 of 15
E55 of 15
easy E52 of 15
hard E41 of 15
E40 of 15
easy E40 of 15
hard 6b0 of 15
6b0 of 15
easy 6b1 of 15
hard 6a6 of 15
6a8 of 15
easy 6a0 of 15
hard 5c0 of 15
5c0 of 15
easy 5c0 of 15
3 Stars14 of 14
2 Stars0 of 14
1 Star0 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Lead33 of 44 (75.0%)
Followed8 of 44 (18.2%)
Unknown3 of 44 (6.8%)

'Climbed'12 of 44 (27.3%)
clean O/S15 of 44 (34.1%)
clean β3 of 44 (6.8%)
clean rpt1 of 44 (2.3%)
clean RP4 of 44 (9.1%)
dogged6 of 44 (13.6%)
dnf3 of 44 (6.8%)