Rockfax Description
Even if most of Trevallen is beyond you at present, this route is well worth seeking out. It climbs the remarkable tube high on the wall right of the abseil. Start below and left of the tube, at a rising line of holds. Climb these from the left (or climb directly to them from below at E1 5c). The wide crack and wacky tube above are then followed more easily to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Unknown 1970s 1975

Ticklists: Through Routes!.

Rollo 06/Sep Lead O/S

Did direct start. Felt E1 to me!

Hidden 04/Sep 2nd dog
adam 24 30/Aug 2nd
chrisallan 30/Aug Lead O/S
Rob Rocket 29/Aug Lead O/S
Scooter Young 29/Aug 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 29/Aug 2nd O/S
with Nick Loc
mynyddresident 28/Jul 2nd
with KP
Hidden 25/Jul Lead O/S
Mattlamb90 19/Jul Lead O/S
danm 19/Jul Lead

Found it hard to get going on this, must have been hungover after all. So much fun at the top.

with Brian (Smacks)
GDun98 18/Jul 2nd O/S
BrynHeason 18/Jul 2nd O/S
with Ben Heason
RosePearson 12/Jul Lead O/S

nice finish - quick lead to grab the guide

with Harry Fogg
Jonny Nick 21/Jun Lead O/S

Direct start so claiming the E1 5C tick. Well protected crux move but a little scary as so close to the deck. Above this the route is very straight forward but care required in the tube as can be very sandy.

Sardien 15/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun Lead rpt
Ed Booth 03/Jun 2nd rpt
Adam Booth 03/Jun Lead rpt
Matt250 25/May 2nd O/S
robgixer 25/May Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May 2nd rpt
the power 11/May 2nd O/S


with rob
Andy Peak 1 11/May 2nd

Well cool

admackie 11/May Lead O/S


with andy
adam 24 10/May 2nd O/S
with Caroline
Hidden 10/May Lead O/S
bede.west 07/Apr 2nd O/S

hvs yes. soft 5b

with German loui
Hidden 07/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr 2nd rpt
tim newton 04/Apr 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 04/Apr Lead O/S
James Oswald 04/Apr Lead O/S
with Nick Duboust
Ramon Marin 03/Apr Lead O/S
with viki harvey
JCAshman ?/Apr Lead
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
luke glaister 16/Nov/14 Lead O/S

What an amazing experience. The ramp needs care but from the ledge it's a jug fest. And the hole is like nothing else I've done. Loved it.

casey johns 16/Nov/14 2nd O/S

Great fun

Andrew Sloan 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S

An enjoyable adventure.

nathanlee 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S
TomRiddelsdell 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
islandlynx 14/Sep/14 2nd
spidermonkey09 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Awesome! Hard start but not sure if its E1 really. Top half a jugfest but really cool!

Ella7 12/Sep/14 2nd

Climbing throughout the hole is just brilliant! Hard start with no visible gear put me off leading it.

charles-green 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Great moves along good holds up a lovely rising traverse. The top hole is so much fun. Cool climb.

RobScarisbrick 07/Sep/14 2nd
Pete Randall 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Nick, Julian B
JulianB 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Pete Randall
nickstephens 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
gg4419 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 25/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Did the direct start seemed like the logical line.

stevelismore 25/Aug/14 2nd O/S

We did the direct start so E1 5c. Well pleased to manage the 5c moves. A blast coming up through the tube!

Binder 24/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Got up the initial moves then lowered off to help with a nearby accident.

Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd
Lessworkmoreclimbing 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Start wasn't too bold but there is quite a stiff move, bordering on 5c.

with Kev
louby 23/Aug/14 2nd
chris_B 23/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead
Harri777 ?/Aug/14 Lead
with Simon H
owain86 30/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Will
wi11 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 25/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Anna Pugh
Hidden 25/Jul/14 2nd
stevorobs3 24/Jun/14 2nd O/S
ian d f 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S


danJBA 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Mike
alastairbegley 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Direct start

Slick 14/Jun/14 Lead
Ross.Cooper 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Dan Geh 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S

In trainers

with Paddy, Ross
Patrick Hill 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/14 2nd
richardashe 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Lovely climb!

Russtygibbons 04/May/14 2nd β
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
BicycleBradley 02/May/14 2nd O/S

Climbed direct at E1

with Trisha
Stefan_Morris 28/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Escape route from greasy/damp rock

Stefan_Morris 27/Apr/14 Lead rpt
anguskille 21/Apr/14 2nd β
Mike Tutt 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
fennerz 21/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Angus Kille
Bry 21/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Bry 21/Apr/14 2nd β
Hidden 20/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
owain86 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S

At midnight, after the pub, by headtorch.

with Chris
Julian Cooper 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Stuart Knott
Hidden ?/Apr/14 -
GuyVG 30/Mar/14 2nd β

with head torch, gripped.

with Gwen Stefani, DJ Malx
Cardi 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Pete G
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
gjd 30/Sep/13 2nd O/S

The initial moves very hard when wet with sea spray.

with Hutch
matt.woodfield 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/13 2nd β
Joughton 27/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 26/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Ellen Cobby 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
soph 26/Aug/13 2nd
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MartinWilliams87 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
tim newton 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd β
eddy-on-the-rocks 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with max
Hidden 03/Jul/13 2nd O/S
dominic lee 29/Jun/13 2nd
with andy elliot
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 09/Jun/13 2nd rpt

trainers. Fun warm up to the trip.

with Remus
Dibdawg 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Vassen
Ollie B 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with D.Campbell
monsteratt 29/May/13 2nd O/S

Good route!

with Philippa, Dan Fairbank
Hidden 29/May/13 Lead O/S
RedFox 26/May/13 2nd dog

Ultradogging, involving an out-of-control tibloc and some excitement trying to catch up with it, as it (un)helpfully removed all the gear I was trying to rest on before I could get to it.

with Tom K
Katya 25/May/13 2nd
Tim Rodgers 23/May/13 Lead

With direct start

Hidden 22/May/13 2nd O/S
Pippa 05/May/13 2nd
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd
mountain_jay 05/May/13 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 31/Mar/13 2nd
Duncan Campbell 31/Mar/13 Lead rpt

Had to go back down to get the bag, did the direct start this time. Never dissapoints this route, great fun.

with Robbie
David Kay 31/Mar/13 2nd
Dan Lane 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Gets E1 in the new CC guide but that's a load of nonsense, definitely only HVS, thigh it is a superb and entertaining route.

barni 31/Mar/13 -
barni 31/Mar/13 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 31/Mar/13 2nd
HarryB 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Camilla
bclifton ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
cymjt ??/2013 -
Ed Babs 17/Sep/12 2nd O/S


with AlexD
AlexD 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S


with Ed
Hidden 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
cooperman 07/Sep/12 2nd
with Tim Whiteley
Mowglee 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ali
ojp 14/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Robin
robin_hackney 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S

E1 direct start.

robin_hackney 14/Aug/12 2nd rpt

This time We by-passed the first hole.

with Si
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
andyjirvin 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Briliant fun route. The first few moves are really the only tricky and bold bit. The most direct start was slightly baffling, go stood up and got gear in, got pumped and climbed back down. Thought Rachael might find it too hard to second. Tried start on the left as for Enter the Goat, just a couple of moves then traversed in. Definitely easier. Once intiital faff was out of the way, followed the ramp up to the crack and and it was fun fun fun! Maybe I'll come back and have a go at the direct start again sometime.

Ed morris 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Dickon
pembrokeshirecaver 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
thetradlad 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Unique and fairly atmospheric.

gazhbo 13/May/12 -
Ewan Russell 07/May/12 Lead O/S

great route did both holes

with Halla
mick1jones 06/May/12 2nd O/S
with Rich Rogers
Richard James Edmunds ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd
thomasadixon 11/Mar/12 2nd rpt

Ah the Hole! Done many times now, led E1 version o/s, seconded in darkness (Mike led in darkness!), seconded and led in rain - this time in trainers. Awesome route.

with Mike
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
victim of mathematics 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Via the left-hand start, as direct looked bold and a bit fall-offable. Nice climbing up to the hole, and then crazy aceness through it.

with Dan
Hidden 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/11 Lead
cem 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Direct E1 version

drcorbasisgod 29/Aug/11 2nd rpt
spondulix 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Collin
datoon 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Edd Reed 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Initial ramp is poorly protected unless you have the correct size cam

with Martin Allen
Matthew Robinson 09/Aug/11 2nd
stvredmond 05/Aug/11 Lead

lots of variation to this climb and going through the two blow holes was a real good change to normal face climbing. really recommend

Helnorris 05/Aug/11 2nd

Really brilliant climb. Going through the blow hole added a sense of spice and adventure, little airy after you come exit out of the blow hole but brilliant :)

Stanley 04/Aug/11 2nd dog

Think I might have gone direct and made it E1... I hope I did. Anyways fell off here, then the climbing was noticably easier to the top. Great climb :)

with Cragking
Stanners 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

done nothing else like it. Fantastic! Start is engaging and top just awesome as hell.

with Martin Stanfield
Hidden 28/Jul/11 2nd
robw007 28/Jul/11 2nd β
HamishD 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Wil Treasure
drysori 01/Jul/11 2nd

Very greasy.

with hamdunn
chriscarroll 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S

absolute adventure! crux is at the bottom but if you chill its awesome...

clairejane 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S

lead first 'pitch' made a belay at the base of the hole as had to double single rope.

with will
dan gibson 02/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with richard lade
just one more 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with chris nunn
Hidden 30/May/11 Lead O/S
TM_Horton 27/May/11 Lead O/S

did the the direct start ... it was hard... but what an epic route ... 360 holds in the "hole" is a spin out hahah

with oetzi, ed
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead rpt
belay bunny turned bad 20/May/11 2nd rpt
with loundsy
tomB 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Juliette
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd
centurion05 30/Apr/11 AltLd
with patch
Hidden 27/Apr/11 2nd rpt
jkarran 27/Apr/11 Lead

With the 5c direct start

with Smith
squicky 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Well, call it clean on sight after decking, having a bath and swinging around at the bottom. Did do the whole route clean in one go though. Great stuff.

with spidey
Stefan_Morris 19/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Ed morris 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with stefan
markalmack 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
arandall 23/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Isaac Whitcombe
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead
ksjs 02/Sep/10 2nd rpt

direct start

with phil
liamoloughlin 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Fran S8 30/Aug/10 Lead
Mr Sparkle 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
drysori 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/10 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 28/Aug/10 2nd rpt
ian caton 28/Aug/10 Lead β
with Abi
drcorbasisgod 27/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Mike Goldthorp 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Direct - E1 5c. Great fun in the hole! E1 start is tricky - hard to read.

RobRock84 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Direct start,awesome route!

with Robin neath
greenclimb 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Rob Pitt 14/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with steveE9
JulesV 13/Aug/10 2nd
with Shauna Cunningham
Shauna 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jules
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Justin T 07/Aug/10 2nd

A weird experience, highly recommended!

with Cherry
Brian Rodgers 06/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Something a little bit different. Worthwhile.

Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 10/May/10 2nd O/S
Giles Davis 10/May/10 2nd O/S
going going gone 07/May/10 Lead β

very adventures. did the direct start.

Hidden 05/May/10 2nd
Hidden 05/May/10 Lead
Ben1983 03/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/May/10 2nd O/S
nic42 02/May/10 2nd O/S
with Olli, Franco, Jack
Olli-C 02/May/10 2nd
Trobbo 01/May/10 2nd
with tony hulme
Matthew Gray ?/May/10 Lead RP

did the E1 start.

Hidden 26/Apr/10 2nd O/S
djking1983 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
barni 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S

direct start

mattyork2 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Richard Hall 05/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Raf
Hidden 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Duncan Campbell 27/Feb/10 Lead O/S

NICE!!!! the hole is really awesome I'm no usually into the HVS grade or anything requiring chimnying but loved it!

with Andy
Hidden 27/Feb/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Jessie Rushbrooke ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Direct start

with GF
alek 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd
Fat Tim 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mark kauntz
Hidden 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 23/May/09 2nd
with Andy Hobson
ksjs 03/May/09 Lead O/S

delightful but soft HVS

Hidden 03/May/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/May/09 Lead O/S
Brown 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with John
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
feilx 29/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Andy L
Rob84 27/Sep/08 Lead dnf

Attempted the direct start and lobbed off repeatedly - fingery!

with Rich Patterson
fennerz 25/Aug/08 2nd O/S


with Ed Booth and Will Nicholls
Ed Booth 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with fennerz and will nichols
ASchwirtz 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S

E1 variation start

Luke Brooks 13/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Wild
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd
Mike Todd ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with anothony schwirtz
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead
Richard Horn 12/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/08 2nd
Chad123 17/May/08 AltLd O/S

Good route, more like E1 with the direct start, but only for a few moves, the rest is much easier...

with Emily
Owen W-G 16/May/08 Lead O/S

Direct start, worth the E1.

with Gav
Hidden 06/May/08 2nd O/S
ksjs 06/May/08 Lead O/S

done with direct start at E1. pretty unique when youre in the hole - 3D climbing and good fun

spacey 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Clive
Alex Mason 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Great route, good climbing and great architecture.

with Stu heald
stuc ??/2008 2nd
Stone Muppet ??/2008 -
Hidden 16/Sep/07 2nd
Ram MkiV 12/Sep/07 Lead O/S

at twilight after a team spanking on sunlover wall

with reeve
Hidden 06/Sep/07 2nd
cragdan 23/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 23/Jun/07 Lead O/S
willjones ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
janegallwey ??/2007 Lead
david morse ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with charlotte turtle
bfreeman ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
clipskipper 19/Jul/06 Lead dnf

One I decided to come back to later.

with Adam
Hidden 05/Jun/06 Lead O/S
chris sm 01/May/06 2nd O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
cornishben 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
Hidden 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Pythonist ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S

E1 start felt hard HVS...

Hidden 29/Jan/06 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 28/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Repeated with Nik 30/5/11

with Tucker
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Jason Gotel ?/Sep/05 Lead
with Tim (as in Sarah)
Hidden 21/Jul/05 -
Chubbard 20/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Harvey
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/May/05 2nd
with Gareth Hallam
gonggashan ?/May/05 2nd
with Mike
givemetea ?/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Ann Chong
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Urgles ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Beesley
shoulders 13/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with dai
lukea 10/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Al
fyfee8a ??/2004 -
Hidden 29/May/03 2nd β
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
phardman 26/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Teresa
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/02 2nd rpt
LC ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Billg ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/00 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 17/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Trevor Stevens, Adrian Casey
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
Roget 27/May/99 Lead O/S
with jon
dickypips ??/1999 2nd
GuyM ??/1999 -
sadams 30/Aug/98 2nd
with Pete Bukowski
nickdonohue 29/Aug/98 Lead

hard start then easy; ace and weird!

with Mark McCarthy
Graham Iles 20/Aug/98 Lead
with Jenny Tweedy
Hidden 04/May/98 Lead
Hidden 03/May/98 Lead
Hidden ?/May/98 2nd O/S
Si Clapham ??/1998 -
Marti999 ??/1998 Solo O/S
NeilGriffiths 16/Aug/97 -
with Neil Nussey
Joe Solo 01/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with jed and tony
Hidden 26/Jul/97 Lead rpt
John Southworth ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
craig h 30/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/96 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/93 2nd
with John Evans & Co
sims ??/1993 2nd O/S
with Nick
Chris Ellis 09/Sep/92 Lead
with Rick Kerr
Alan James - UKC and UKH 07/Aug/91 Lead
mikej 28/May/91 Lead
with Mike Byles
Rich Kirby 31/Mar/91 Lead
with Ian Kirby
Hidden 08/Apr/90 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
steve L 09/Sep/89 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
Nick Biven 01/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 2nd
Hidden ??/1989 -
Mike Owen 23/Aug/88 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
BigHairyIan 11/Apr/88 2nd O/S
with Windy (Paul Windell)
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Mike Owen 30/May/86 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
keefe 21/Feb/86 -
Gregory ??/1986 Lead
shark 28/Sep/85 Lead O/S
with Neil McAddy (Captain)
Hidden ??/1983 -
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Hidden ??/0000 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, Binder, Hidden, grumpyoldjanner, Hidden, alias dave, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 62
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 58
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set