Romany** E3 5c
[Above the bold section on Romany, E3 5c, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A 2-star first pitch up the right wall of the corner is high in the grade. Climb the bold lower section to a small ledge. Move up to the break then right to some cracks which are followed to the large break. Either traverse left to belay and finish up Gypsy Lane; or better, traverse right to the large ledge and abseil from threads. © ROCKFAX

FA. J.deMontjoye 15.11.82 15/Nov/1982

Photo: Above the bold section on Romany, E3 5c © Joughton
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This climb is in 46 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

NuclearNev - 2015

Ricky Rocks - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with Dan Hobbs

HAJ Francis - Lead O/S - 2014

Regardless of how good you are at fiddling in RPs the gear is poor moving up to the break. Safe after halfway though with a good runout near the top. Ace route, proper E3.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Adam Bevan

I thought the lower section was pretty bold and the upper section was pretty steep - tough E3.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

belay bunny turned bad - AltLd - 25/Oct/09 with Debbie

Absolutely excellent route, if you can do this you can climb E4.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09 with Nick Rabb

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/May/09

quality but much easier in retrospect than it seems when on it. i got good gear (4 bits) before moving up on lower wall though it still feels quite committing. the ledge isnt quite the ledge youd like it to be and gaining the upper crack took some thought though once established this is straightforward. the end is a bit cheeky with a bit of a run out, direct seemed to lead nowhere so i moved right at top of crack to finish via good small blocks and edges. v worthwhile
ksjs - Lead O/S - Feb/09 with goosebump

gforce - Lead - 06/Aug/08 with Jason

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/08

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2008

karin led, then me, Pat seconded.
Steve Crowe - Lead β - 24/Aug/07 with Pat, KM

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

Boy - 2006

Kev Little - Lead O/S - 2006

Gus - Lead O/S - 28/May/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

sadams - 2nd - 13/Apr/04 with Eric Hildrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/02

Billg - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/00

Hidden - Lead - 2000

sadams - Lead - 30/Aug/98 with Pete Bukowski

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/97

shark - Lead - 27/May/96 with Sonia

Roget - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/95 with jon

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 27/May/94 with Nick Wharton

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 11/Apr/93 with Pete Finklaire, David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 11/Apr/93 with Pete Finklaire, Dad

Gregory - Lead - 1993

steve taylor - 2nd - Aug/90 with Jim Waddington

Rich Kirby - 2nd - Jul/90 with Will (S. Williamson)

Hidden - 02/Jun/89

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 28/Mar/89 with Neville Elstone

Hidden - 1989

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 06/Apr/88 with Phil Baker

andy gittins - 1987

keefe - 28/Dec/85

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/84 with Phil Ralph

Total votes cast 33
hard E40 of 11
E40 of 11
easy E42 of 11
hard E33 of 11
E36 of 11
easy E30 of 11
hard E20 of 11
E20 of 11
easy E20 of 11
hard 6a0 of 11
6a0 of 11
easy 6a3 of 11
hard 5c2 of 11
5c6 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 11
5b0 of 11
easy 5b0 of 11
3 Stars5 of 11
2 Stars5 of 11
1 Star1 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat