UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

 

 

 

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The wall just right of Soldier of Fortune gives a big hard pitch which makes some of the others on this wall look like Sunday afternoon strolls. A big cam is crucial for the start.
1) 6b, 35m. Climb the wall moving slightly left to a small groove (thread). Move up and left and climb the right arete of the groove above to a good flake hold. Hard moves gain the break and yet more hard moves gain a standing position above the roof. Exit left to better holds and the belay ledge on the right.
2) 5c, 10m. Finish up the crack in the left wall of the recess. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 26/Feb/1988.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ed morris 28 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Thread replaced July 2023. Very unobvious gear if you are on sighting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thread replaced July 2023. Very unobvious gear if you are on sighting.

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Route of Interest
Dreaming Again

Grade: E6 6c ***
(The Cauldron)

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