Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes.
Seasonal Restriction from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.
Rockfax Description
A wandering eliminate which, even though it lacks line, does cover some impressive territory.
1) 6a, 25m. Start as for Soldier of Fortune but step right to reach the small subsidiary groove to the right. Follow this to the break then hand traverse right until you are below a hanging crack. Climb the hard wall and crack to the cave.
2) 5c, 25m. Finish as for High Pressure. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson 11/Mar/1985.
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(St. Govan's Head)