Pembrokeshire > St. Govan's East >
First Blood*** E2 5c

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[Tim Riley on First Blood (E2), St Govan's East, Pembroke, 3 kb]36m. A magnificent route which should be on everyone’s Pembroke tick list. Start below the arete at the left-hand end of a platform which runs along the cliff base from beneath the abseil. Climb up, on huge holds, to the bottom of a thin crack. Follow the crack, with a bit of assistance from some holds on the right. Continue past a flowstone section (beware of nesting birds) to a groove. Move left onto a ledge then climb the pinnacle, and wall behind it, to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. P.Littlejohn 30/Apr/1982

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Tim Riley on First Blood (E2), St Govan's East, Pembroke © Alexander Thorp
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This climb is in 235 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/14

Better than remembered, three finger lock and pull!
Ed morris - 2nd rpt - 23/Mar/14 with stefan

solid finger locks and bomber gear, cracking route
Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/14 with Edmundmorris

Frank the Husky - 2014

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/13

metal arms - 2nd - 01/Sep/13

ian caton - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/13 with Abi

pigeonslipper - Lead - 01/Sep/13

Steep, juggy lower wall to a hard crux going up holds on the right before stepping left. Really good, technical crux when you're already pumped. Simply great climbing!
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Clare Erskine

Unable to get through crux May 08, cruised this time in a dream, prime conditions at empty crag while greasy St Govans was heaving. Best protected E2 in Pembers? Triple up on nut 2 and 3s
Owen W-G - Lead β - 25/Aug/13 with Jim

rd20 - 2nd dog - 20/Aug/13 with David P

Gutted not to get this clean. Went up and down loads of times. Figured the crux out straight after falling off. Really good climbing above and very safe.
dprctr - Lead dog - 20/Aug/13 with Robert Dufton

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/13

Dizz - 2nd - 11/Aug/13 with EJ

Tried to lead. Got pumped trying to place gear on steep bottom section, came down. Then backed off crux due it being so hot. Didn't feel like an easy lead but maybe all would feel different on a cooler day?
Lessworkmoreclimbing - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/13 with Kev

One of the best routes I have ever done; amazing rock, moves, surroundings and loads of bomber gear.
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Aug/13 with Kevin Stephens

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Jul/13

Crushed the end joint of my little finger so much in the pinky jam on the crux I had no feeling in it until the top!
Tim Sparrow - 2nd - Jul/13 with Monty

Amazing route!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Ellen Cobby

Ellen Cobby - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/13 with Adam Booth

Great route - one tricky move, but very good throughout. With gear already in to below the crux.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Tim

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Jun/13

Lenny - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/13 with Phil .N

yeah desperate, first proper trad lob.
AlexD - Lead dnf - 24/Jun/13 with Alasdair

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with D.Campbell

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/13

I struggled up this route, even though seconding. The steep juggy first section was fine, but I found the technical face and crack above tricky and fingery!
gravity - 2nd dog - 25/May/13 with Hugh Thomas, Max Adamson

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Tor Nockles

Grezza - Lead - 19/May/13 with Paul E

After taking the fall a couple of years ago I got on it not feeling my best. Somehow remembered the beta and it went ok. Class route.
Twisty - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Greg Slee

Chi Cheng - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13 with Rachel Stater

Rested on gear by crux. Apparently I missed holds?
Olli-C - Lead dog - 04/May/13 with Adam Knightly

Pippa - 2nd - 04/May/13 with Jamie Thornley

Great route, very well protected and short-lived 5c.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Chi Huo Cheng

mountain_jay - Lead - 04/May/13 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead rpt - May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

jcw - 2013

Hidden - 2013

One bomber pinky lock see you through the crux. Nice!
al99 - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - 2nd dog - 13/Oct/12 with Al Benson

soph - 2nd - 30/Aug/12 with Andy Reeve

Another aided start
ojp - 2nd dog - 13/Aug/12 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12

I know why they called it first blood!
robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Si

Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Si

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with jacob loyd

jacobjlloyd - 2nd rpt - 10/Aug/12 with Dougie

soph - Lead rpt - 27/Jul/12 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

I face-climbed on the right for the crux 2 metres before traversing to the crack (thin and balancy 6a), after I failed to work out the direct moves up the crack.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Lee P, Brian Q

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/12

Okay pro, but tricky move traversing to the left crack requiring a fingery pinch or jam jsut where the gear is placed!
sara n - TR β - 12/Apr/12 with Neal Jobling

Oddjob - 2nd β - 06/Apr/12 with Markus

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/12 with bwestwood

bwestwood - 2nd - Apr/12

Start was soaked, fun moves entering the crack.
JRae - Lead - 10/Mar/12 with Paul M

really good but felt pretty easy despite the damp at the bottom
mwatson - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12 with thomasadixon

pmurdy - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Jonny Reay

One disproportionately hard move, good route anyway.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Mike

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 09/Mar/12 with Gareth E

EagerAndy - Lead - 2012

drcorbasisgod - 2nd rpt - 27/Aug/11 with Charles Moreton

Third time lucky, having failed on previous attempts in 2004 & 2007
cem - Lead β - 27/Aug/11 with Chris Parson

Brilliant, cruxy in the crack, otherwise delightfully entertaining to the top
John Tanner - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Oli Brend

owb106 - 2nd β - 22/Aug/11 with John Tanner

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 20/Aug/11 with Lee Bartrop, Nic Dill

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Aug/11

Caspar - 2nd - 14/Aug/11 with Ross Davidson

Fran S8 - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with john nightingale

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Viv

Exodus - 2nd - 05/Aug/11 with Tim Newton

redjerry - TR O/S - Aug/11

Utterly stunning.
tatz45 - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with Katy Vose

Jus - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11

Slipping around in the rain, fantastic lead from Justin
Stanley - 2nd dog - 31/Jul/11 with Justin

tim newton - Lead dog - 29/Jul/11 with john crook

mikeyjbs - Lead dog - 10/Jul/11 with sarah harrison

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead β - 10/Jul/11 with GF

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/11 with Jake

Dont know why I fell off this.
jacobjlloyd - Lead dog - 05/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with bleggs

Phil PBC - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11 with henry castle

greasy horrible arrgh! went for a nice swim though.
Stone Muppet - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/11 with tubs, alan

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with richard lade

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

sweaty initial jugs. hard move to finish the crackline. took ages to try to free one of the cams before working out a suitable sequence.
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Remus Knowles

A definite classic. Real nice climbing with a crux which feels very tough if you try it the wrong way (which I did). Get it right and it's not too bad though.
Byronius Maximus - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/11 with Alex Twist

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/11

Greg Pittam - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Raff

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Jules McKim

bring back the yo-yo!
julesmckim - Lead dog - 23/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 22/Apr/11

Pippa - 2nd - 22/Apr/11 with Jon

owain86 - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Chris

chriscarroll - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Owain

sam820 - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Noe

NoeD - 2nd - 13/Mar/11 with Sam

Rory Shaw - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with -martin

Two powerful 5c fingerlock moves above sinker gear. Brilliant
david morse - 2nd rpt - 08/Sep/10 with chris todd

frost - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with N Griffiths, D Garry

givemetea - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Thea Williams

Rob Pitt - 2nd - 29/Aug/10

3 Names - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Sumee Holloway

NeilGriffiths - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with Dave Garry, Simon Frost

keefe - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/10 with Tansy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

Chubbard - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Ray

Brian Rodgers - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Mike Todd

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/10

Harry Thorpe - 2nd dog - 16/Jun/10 with Laurence Everitt

Really hard! Although after a quick sit on the rope, left in the right position to make the move that was stumping me!
hepitt - 2nd dog - 23/May/10 with Rob Pitt

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Helen Pitt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/10

barni - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/10 with Liam fleming

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/10

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/10 with Mia Stacey

Seymore Butt - 2010

mux - 2010 with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths

Tim W - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Rich P, Andrew Davidson

lived up to its name, bloodied hands by the top
ian d f - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Pete H

simonp - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with Andy Reeve

Yo-yo'd, one fall from crux
chris j - Lead - 29/Aug/09 with Doug

Shauna - 2nd dog - 17/Aug/09 with Steve

belay bunny turned bad - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/09 with loundsy

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - Jul/09

GuyM - Jul/09 with neil

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/09

Ed Babs - 2nd O/S - 05/May/09 with Harry

datoon - 2nd O/S - 03/May/09 with K

khawk - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with DT

Practice consisted of a failed attempt last year. A good climb. If you can do the move you've got it sussed
chris wyatt - Lead RP - 29/Mar/09 with Nik Goile

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/09

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 2009 with GF

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2009

Richard Hession - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/08 with Stu

Ace climb and on a perfect day
Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Tony Payne

Hidden - Lead rpt - Jun/08

Had a good stab at crux but too hard for first day of trip. Will I nail it next time?
Owen W-G - Lead dnf - 16/May/08 with Gav

Hidden - 2nd dog - 08/May/08

done with more control this time ie didnt rest. it is good but is a bit of a one move wonder.
ksjs - Lead rpt - 08/May/08 with goosebump

haydng - 2nd rpt - 05/May/08 with Will

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Dave Taylor

Done minutes before sunset, not the amazing route i was expecting but very good nontheless.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Thomas Martin

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/07

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Dan

Paz - 2nd rpt - 07/Jul/07 with TS

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07 with James Parrot

One slip at crux
ASchwirtz - Lead dog - 10/Jun/07 with Tom

tom_1985 - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/07 with Ant Schwirtz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/07

Couldn't do the crux
cem - Lead dnf - 06/May/07 with Graham Dolman

Still a great route, the missis got very pumped on the first steep bit, but hung in well to get the onsight.
Chad123 - 2nd - 05/May/07 with Emily

doug s - Lead - 14/Apr/07 with mike

wolverine - Apr/07 with Iain Mount

Rob Kennard - 2007

janegallwey - Lead - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - 2007

colkurtz - 2nd - 30/Aug/06 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd β - 27/Aug/06

hard for 5c
david morse - 2nd dog - Aug/06 with nathan lawrence

bfreeman - Lead β - Aug/06 with Jon Freeman

Neil Ireson - Lead - 19/Jul/06 with Jane

Ben1983 - Lead dog - May/06

cornishben - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Edouard Vincent

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/06

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Apr/06

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

Si Clapham - 2006

nathanmanc - Lead O/S - 2006 with Chris Todd

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2006 with Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

shoulders - Lead - 28/Aug/05 with dai

Chad123 - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Huw

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Billg - Lead O/S - 2005

Couldn't do the crux
cem - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/04 with Liam Mark

NeilGriffiths - 29/Aug/04

Made the stupid mistake of 'warming up' on this route and got desperately pumped. Great climbing though.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Sarah Kekus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/03

ian caton - Lead O/S - 2002 with Andy

One rest
Nigel Coe - Lead dog - 26/Aug/01 with Norman Wright

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/01

Hidden - Lead - 2000

jonka - 2000

Tim M - 2000

dickypips - Lead dog - 04/Sep/99 with john richards

Hidden - Jun/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/99

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/98 with Louise Pellett

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/May/98

Marti999 - Lead - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/97

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/97

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/96 with mark ryan

ChrisJD - Lead - 16/Sep/95 with PaulOr

Hidden - Lead - 1994

Hidden - 1994

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/93

whispering nic - 2nd - Aug/93 with Graham Iles

sims - 2nd O/S - Aug/93 with Nick

Pete led
Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 12/Apr/93 with Pete Finklaire, David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 12/Apr/93 with Pete Finklaire, Dad

neilh - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/93 with sara hyde

mikej - Lead - 19/Jun/92 with Mike Byles

jfletcher - Solo - 02/May/92

Roget - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/92 with colin, baccy

Rich Kirby - Lead - Apr/92 with Dave Taylor

keefe - 25/Sep/91

John Marsland - 2nd - 28/May/90 with Dave Mould

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Dave Rumney - 2nd - Jul/89

Hidden - Lead - 1989

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/88

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Apr/87

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 05/Apr/87 with Sandra Graham

andy gittins - 1987

Mike Owen - 27/May/86 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/86

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

Mark Kemball - Lead - 02/May/83 with Dave Kenyon

Hidden - Lead - 03/Apr/83

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Cockman, Hidden, gurumed, iceaxejuggler, Hidden, JamesRich, stvredmond, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Walker, Hidden, Hidden, tobydunford, Ropeboy, Hidden, Hidden, The Pylon King, a_radiohead_fan, Kyuzo

Total votes cast 148
hard E30 of 50
E30 of 50
easy E30 of 50
hard E28 of 50
E239 of 50
easy E23 of 50
hard E10 of 50
E10 of 50
easy E10 of 50
hard 6a0 of 51
6a0 of 51
easy 6a5 of 51
hard 5c26 of 51
5c17 of 51
easy 5c3 of 51
hard 5b0 of 51
5b0 of 51
easy 5b0 of 51
3 Stars41 of 47
2 Stars6 of 47
1 Star0 of 47
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 235 (0.4%)
Lead133 of 235 (56.6%)
Followed75 of 235 (31.9%)
Toproped2 of 235 (0.9%)
Alt Leads2 of 235 (0.9%)
Unknown22 of 235 (9.4%)

'Climbed'78 of 235 (33.2%)
clean O/S94 of 235 (40.0%)
clean β9 of 235 (3.8%)
clean rpt19 of 235 (8.1%)
clean RP1 of 235 (0.4%)
dogged27 of 235 (11.5%)
dnf7 of 235 (3.0%)