Rockfax Description
A magnificent route which should be on everyone's Pembroke tick list. Start below the arete at the left-hand end of a platform which runs along the cliff base from beneath the abseil. Climb up, on huge holds, to the bottom of a thin crack. Follow the crack, with a bit of assistance from some holds on the right. Continue past a flowstone section (beware of nesting birds) to a groove. Move left onto a ledge then climb the pinnacle, and wall behind it, to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 30/Apr/1982

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School.

Hidden 19/Sep Lead dog
James S 19/Sep 2nd O/S
with rich
FlavioL1989 31/Aug Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 31/Aug 2nd dog
with Flavio
Joughton 08/Aug Lead O/S
LJKing 02/Aug 2nd dog

Good effort Paul, I found this 'bloody hard first'!

with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 23/Jul Lead O/S
andy_pemberton 20/Jul Lead

Wet at start. Crux crack seemed much easier taken direct.

with Steve Gibson
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
tobydunford 07/Jun Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Ed Booth 02/Jun 2nd O/S
anguskille 02/Jun Lead O/S

brilliant, cheeky in the middle, worthy of its 3-star status

Adam Booth 02/Jun 2nd rpt
Dizz 25/May Lead RP
with Dave Frost
robgixer 23/May Lead dog
morganator 23/May Lead O/S
with Nicky Parkin
Sam Simpson 18/May Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May 2nd O/S
chris687 18/May Lead O/S
jimmatthews 18/May 2nd
Alex Winter 17/May Lead O/S

Brilliant. Had to nip up it pretty quickly because of an approaching spring tide. Nearly spoiled my underpants after kicking out my only runner when committing to the crack. Jibbered back down and put about four in.

climbomaniac 10/May 2nd O/S


quiffhanger 10/May Lead O/S

On a wild day - concerned looking belayer!

billb ?/May Lead O/S
alastairbegley 19/Apr Lead

Sat on the rope a few times while trying to work the crux out

Slick 19/Apr 2nd
pete johnson 11/Apr 2nd
with BendyBennett
wi11 09/Apr 2nd β
Mike Goldthorp 09/Apr Lead O/S

Superb line, bloody hard move off a gnarly fingerlock and smeary feet with bomber gear right by you - lovely rock, good stuff!

with Will
ollie_e 06/Apr Lead O/S

Only just E2. Very good though.

brices 06/Apr 2nd β

intense crack climbing

with Llinos
elliptic 06/Apr 2nd
with Tom R.
Jake Young 06/Apr 2nd O/S
chrisscutt 06/Apr 2nd O/S
with oly
Nick1812P 06/Apr Lead O/S
with Tom A, Jake
Teappleby 06/Apr 2nd

Amazing route.

Llinos C 06/Apr Lead
Hidden 05/Apr Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 05/Apr Lead O/S

Superb climbing, and probably the hardest route of the trip for me, mega pleased to get this as was quite nervous as I knew Alex has failed to get the on sight of this previously.

Hidden 05/Apr 2nd rpt
tim newton 04/Apr Lead rpt
Rachel Slater 04/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/2015 -
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
adie84 ??/2015 -
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Kirill 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Dizz 26/Aug/14 Lead
with tony
Apharri 20/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Dave Wharton
mynyddresident 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with KP
Dilwat 17/Aug/14 2nd dog
nickdonohue 17/Aug/14 Lead dog

I didn't have enough power / finger strength for the crux. Had to aid a couple moves. Learnt a lot though, and still really enjoyable route.

redjerry 17/Jul/14 Lead
with Ed Morris
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead RP
Dan Geh 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S


with Paddy
Patrick Hill 11/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Dan Geh
Dan0Me 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jack G
Ricky Rocks 30/May/14 2nd rpt
VPJB 27/May/14 Lead
Ramon Marin 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Justin T 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Awesome, felt nails for E2 though!

with Ramon
john lynch 18/May/14 2nd O/S

Another Littlejohn masterpiece.

with Lewis Andrew
markalmack 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Stuart Johnston 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Brannock 20/Apr/14 Lead

Just before the rain came in.

adam 24 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
bigie bob 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Dean177 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Dibdawg 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
simon kimber 18/Apr/14 2nd

Fat Handed Twat

GuyVG 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S

hard crux, good job theres friction

w.pettet-smith ?/Apr/14 Lead

A little cheeky for the fat fingered.

Ed morris 23/Mar/14 2nd rpt

Better than remembered, three finger lock and pull!

with stefan
Stefan_Morris 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S

solid finger locks and bomber gear, cracking route

Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
ejected ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
prcleary ??/2014 -
Hidden 25/Sep/13 Lead
metal arms 01/Sep/13 2nd
ian caton 01/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Abi
pigeonslipper 01/Sep/13 Lead
James Oswald 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Steep, juggy lower wall to a hard crux going up holds on the right before stepping left. Really good, technical crux when you're already pumped. Simply great climbing!

with Clare Erskine
Owen W-G 25/Aug/13 Lead β

Unable to get through crux May 08, cruised this time in a dream, didn't even notice crux until I'd passed through it. Prime conditions at empty crag while greasy St Govans was heaving. Best protected E2 in Pembers? Extra nut 2 and 3s needed

with Jim
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd
rd20 20/Aug/13 2nd dog
with David P
dprctr 20/Aug/13 Lead dog

Gutted not to get this clean. Went up and down loads of times. Figured the crux out straight after falling off. Really good climbing above and very safe.

Hidden 16/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Dizz 11/Aug/13 2nd
with EJ
Lessworkmoreclimbing 09/Aug/13 2nd dog

Tried to lead. Got pumped trying to place gear on steep bottom section, came down. Then backed off crux due it being so hot. Didn't feel like an easy lead but maybe all would feel different on a cooler day?

with Kev
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

One of the best routes I have ever done; amazing rock, moves, surroundings and loads of bomber gear.

with Kevin Stephens
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead dnf
Tim Sparrow ?/Jul/13 2nd

Crushed the end joint of my little finger so much in the pinky jam on the crux I had no feeling in it until the top!

with Monty
Adam Booth 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Amazing route!

Ellen Cobby 30/Jun/13 2nd dog
monsteratt 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great route - one tricky move, but very good throughout. With gear already in to below the crux.

with Tim
Hidden 28/Jun/13 2nd dog
Lenny 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Phil .N
AlexD 24/Jun/13 Lead dnf

yeah desperate, first proper trad lob.

Ollie B 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S


with D.Campbell
Duncan Campbell 01/Jun/13 2nd

Hard but very well protected crux. As good as you would expect a Littlejohn 'Top 50' to be.

with Ollie B
Hidden 31/May/13 Lead O/S
gravity 25/May/13 2nd dog

I struggled up this route, even though seconding. The steep juggy first section was fine, but I found the technical face and crack above tricky and fingery!

with Hugh Thomas, Max Adamson
will_benfold 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd
Grezza 19/May/13 Lead
with Paul E
Twisty 05/May/13 Lead O/S

After taking the fall a couple of years ago I got on it not feeling my best. Somehow remembered the beta and it went ok. Class route.

with Greg Slee
Chi Cheng 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Olli-C 04/May/13 Lead dog

Rested on gear by crux. Apparently I missed holds?

with Adam Knightly
Pippa 04/May/13 2nd
Rachel Slater 04/May/13 Lead O/S

Great route, very well protected and short-lived 5c.

mountain_jay 04/May/13 Lead
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead rpt
dan ely 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with jon (ukc reading)
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
irish paul ??/2013 Lead O/S
al99 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

One bomber pinky lock see you through the crux. Nice!

martinazando 13/Oct/12 2nd dog
soph 30/Aug/12 2nd
with Andy Reeve
ojp 13/Aug/12 2nd dog

Another aided start

with Dave
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S

I know why they called it first blood!

with Si
Dave Foster 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Si
dswansonlow 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 10/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dougie
soph 27/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S

I face-climbed on the right for the crux 2 metres before traversing to the crack (thin and balancy 6a), after I failed to work out the direct moves up the crack.

with Lee P, Brian Q
Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd
sara n 12/Apr/12 TR β

Okay pro, but tricky move traversing to the left crack requiring a fingery pinch or jam jsut where the gear is placed!

with Neal Jobling
Oddjob 06/Apr/12 2nd β
with Markus
pie_eater_pete 04/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood ?/Apr/12 2nd
JRae 10/Mar/12 Lead

Start was soaked, fun moves entering the crack.

with Paul M
mwatson 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S

really good but felt pretty easy despite the damp at the bottom

pmurdy 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Jonny Reay
thomasadixon 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S

One disproportionately hard move, good route anyway.

with Mike
Owain Llewelyn 09/Mar/12 Lead
with Gareth E
Andy Edgar ??/2012 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 30/Aug/11 Lead β
with Andrew Bevan
drcorbasisgod 27/Aug/11 2nd rpt
cem 27/Aug/11 Lead β

Third time lucky, having failed on previous attempts in 2004 & 2007

John Tanner 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant, cruxy in the crack, otherwise delightfully entertaining to the top

with Oli Brend
owb106 22/Aug/11 2nd β
Mark Kemball 20/Aug/11 2nd
with Lee Bartrop, Nic Dill
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd
Fran S8 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Viv
Exodus 05/Aug/11 2nd
with Tim Newton
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
tatz45 ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Utterly stunning.

Jus 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Stanley 31/Jul/11 2nd dog

Slipping around in the rain, fantastic lead from Justin

with Justin
tim newton 29/Jul/11 Lead dog
mikeyjbs 10/Jul/11 Lead dog
with sarah harrison
Jessie Rushbrooke 10/Jul/11 Lead β
with GF
dannyboy83 05/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 05/Jul/11 Lead dog

Dont know why I fell off this.

Phill Mitch 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with bleggs
Phil PBC 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
Stone Muppet 04/Jun/11 Lead dnf

greasy horrible arrgh! went for a nice swim though.

with tubs, alan
dan gibson 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with richard lade
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S

sweaty initial jugs. hard move to finish the crackline. took ages to try to free one of the cams before working out a suitable sequence.

Byronius Maximus 28/Apr/11 2nd dog

A definite classic. Real nice climbing with a crux which feels very tough if you try it the wrong way (which I did). Get it right and it's not too bad though.

Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Greg Pittam 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Raff
Mark Kemball 23/Apr/11 2nd
with Jules McKim
julesmckim 23/Apr/11 Lead dog

bring back the yo-yo!

Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead
Pippa 22/Apr/11 2nd
with Jon
owain86 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Chris
chriscarroll 03/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Owain
sam820 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Noe
NoeD 13/Mar/11 2nd
with Sam
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Ed morris 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S


with -martin
david morse 08/Sep/10 2nd rpt

Two powerful 5c fingerlock moves above sinker gear. Brilliant

with chris todd
frost 29/Aug/10 2nd
with N Griffiths, D Garry
givemetea 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Thea Williams
Rob Pitt 29/Aug/10 2nd
3 Names 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 29/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
keefe 24/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Tansy
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Chubbard 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Ray
Brian Rodgers 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Mike Todd 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/10 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Harry Thorpe 16/Jun/10 2nd dog


hepitt 23/May/10 2nd dog

Really hard! Although after a quick sit on the rope, left in the right position to make the move that was stumping me!

with Rob Pitt
Rob Pitt 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
Hidden 05/May/10 Lead O/S
barni 19/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 19/Apr/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
mux ??/2010 -
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
Tim W 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rich P, Andrew Davidson
ian d f 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S

lived up to its name, bloodied hands by the top

with Pete H
simonp ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
chris j 29/Aug/09 Lead

Yo-yo'd, one fall from crux

with Doug
Shauna 17/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Steve
belay bunny turned bad 05/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with loundsy
Hidden 05/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead
GuyM ?/Jul/09 -
with neil
Hidden 20/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 05/May/09 2nd O/S
with Harry
datoon 03/May/09 2nd O/S
with K
khawk 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with DT
chris wyatt 29/Mar/09 Lead RP

Practice consisted of a failed attempt last year. A good climb. If you can do the move you've got it sussed

Hidden 15/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke ??/2009 2nd
with GF
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead rpt
Richard Hession 25/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Stu
Dave Reeve 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Ace climb and on a perfect day

with Tony Payne
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Owen W-G 16/May/08 Lead dnf

Had a good stab at crux but too hard for first day of trip. Will I nail it next time?

with Gav
Hidden 08/May/08 2nd dog
ksjs 08/May/08 Lead rpt

done with more control this time ie didnt rest. it is good but is a bit of a one move wonder.

haydng 05/May/08 2nd rpt
with Will
PaulTanton 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Alex Mason 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Done minutes before sunset, not the amazing route i was expecting but very good nontheless.

Hidden 27/Aug/07 2nd
Ram MkiV 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dan
Paz 07/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with TS
Tim Steward 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with James Parrot
ASchwirtz 10/Jun/07 Lead dog

One slip at crux

with Tom
tom_1985 09/Jun/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead O/S
cem 06/May/07 Lead dnf

Couldn't do the crux

Chad123 05/May/07 2nd

Still a great route, the missis got very pumped on the first steep bit, but hung in well to get the onsight.

with Emily
doug s 14/Apr/07 Lead
with mike
Hidden ?/Apr/07 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
janegallwey ??/2007 Lead
drysori ??/2007 2nd
colkurtz 30/Aug/06 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 27/Aug/06 2nd β
david morse ?/Aug/06 2nd dog

hard for 5c

with nathan lawrence
bfreeman ?/Aug/06 Lead β
with Jon Freeman
Neil Ireson 19/Jul/06 Lead
with Jane
Ben1983 ?/May/06 Lead dog
cornishben 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
Hidden 23/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/06 2nd dog
Boy ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Si Clapham ??/2006 -
nathanmanc ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
shoulders 28/Aug/05 Lead
with dai
Chad123 ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Huw
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Billg ??/2005 Lead O/S
cem 30/Aug/04 Lead dnf

Couldn't do the crux

with Liam Mark
NeilGriffiths 29/Aug/04 -
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Feb/03 Lead O/S
ian caton ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Andy
Nigel Coe 26/Aug/01 Lead dog

One rest

with Norman Wright
Hidden 30/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
jonka ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
dickypips 04/Sep/99 Lead dog
with john richards
timbanton ?/Jun/99 -
Hidden 01/May/99 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 16/Aug/98 Lead
with Louise Pellett
Hidden 05/May/98 2nd β
Marti999 ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 23/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/97 2nd O/S
michael burrows 06/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with mark ryan
bill1 11/Jun/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/95 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 -
Hidden 29/Aug/93 Lead
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 2nd
with Graham Iles
sims ?/Aug/93 2nd O/S
with Nick
Dave Musgrove 12/Apr/93 2nd

Pete led

with Pete Finklaire, David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12/Apr/93 2nd
neilh 10/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with sara hyde
mikej 19/Jun/92 Lead
with Mike Byles
jfletcher 02/May/92 Solo
Roget 18/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with colin, baccy
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/92 Lead
with Dave Taylor
keefe 25/Sep/91 -
John Marsland 28/May/90 2nd
with Dave Mould
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Dave Rumney ?/Jul/89 2nd
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 26/Feb/88 2nd O/S
Neil R 18/Apr/87 2nd
with Mark
Bruce Kerr 05/Apr/87 Lead
with Sandra Graham
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Steve Crowe ??/1987 2nd O/S

circa 1987

Mike Owen 27/May/86 -
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 05/May/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 02/May/83 Lead
with Dave Kenyon
Hidden 03/Apr/83 Lead
steve L 19/Sep/82 Lead O/S
with Lyndsey
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 67
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set