Rockfax Description
A great route up the centre of the square buttress to the left (looking in) of the abseil line. Start in the centre of the buttress, below a left-leaning ramp. Climb the ramp to a good flake on the arete - lace this with gear, then make a tricky traverse back right to a hard move past an old peg. Finish strenuously right or left. © Rockfax

FA. J de Montjoye, I Parsons, B Hannon 17/Jul/1982

theotherpetehill 31/Aug Lead dnf

Fell off below peg, couldn't figure out the moves - took a bit of a swing

with Adam Brown, Chris Allan
Hidden 01/Aug Lead O/S
Ed Booth 02/Jun 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 02/Jun Lead O/S
morganator 25/May Lead
with Nicky Parkin
Hidden 17/May Lead dnf
pete johnson 11/Apr 2nd
with BendyBennett
Hidden 06/Apr Lead O/S
brices 06/Apr 2nd β

hard moves rightwards

with Llinos
Llinos C 06/Apr Lead
red_rhodesha 05/Apr 2nd
with Jonny Aylwin
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 31/Aug/14 2nd

Tricky traverse but good route.

with ali k
mynyddresident 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Excellent moves across the headwall

with KP
redjerry 16/Jul/14 Lead

In the rain

with Ed Morris
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd
Ramon Marin 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Justin T 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Started up forbidden fruits but I couldn't see the peg out right to traverse to, ended up too high I think at which point traversing looked improbable, finished up Adam's rib which actually felt a far more logical way to go and a cool spicy finish to the route.

with Ramon
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
markalmack 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

good. Gradually getting harder, the higher you get. perfect

with james marjot
bigie bob 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
GuyVG 18/Apr/14 Lead β

I'd watched Rob on it the day before. What a crux and then it keeps on coming!

simon kimber 18/Apr/14 2nd
nathanlee 17/Apr/14 2nd
with Rob Greenwood
Tubs 09/Apr/14 2nd β
with Dave M
w.pettet-smith ?/Apr/14 Lead

Ooo heck! Great moves, quite blind and committing I thought

with simon kimber
metal arms 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ed morris 04/Jun/13 Lead β

After messing up the lead at christmas.

with Adam Bevan
Duncan Campbell 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Felt bold questing away from the arete, but there is quite a lot of kit. Interesting technical climbing on sometime unpositive rock

with Ollie B
Chi Cheng 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
soph 04/May/13 2nd
with Alex Hughes
Hidden ?/May/13 2nd
Ed morris 01/Jan/13 Lead dog

felt tricky but not hard right untill the last 2 metres. Rested on a nut. recovered and finished. Very pumpy.

with Adam Bevan
jcw ??/2013 -
al99 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

I thought this was nails for E3. Perhaps I got it wrong. I traversed with feet on Quartzite footholds (not calcite as the book says) using tiny crimps and weird side pulls. Perhaps I did it wrong but it felt pretty close to 6a with gear way out left on the arete.

martinazando 13/Oct/12 2nd
gregoritos 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
robin_hackney 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Si
Dave Foster 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Si 2
soph 27/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 09/Mar/12 Lead
with Gareth E
john nightingale 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S

barely made it, arms felt like lead

dannyboy83 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 05/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead dog
dan gibson 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
feilx 29/May/11 Lead O/S

tried the direct alternative but confused the line and ended up on this. Excellent route - traverse is wild, got rock throughout.

with Heather
Mike Goldthorp 03/Apr/11 Lead β

Took over the lead from al. Brilliant exposed traverse moves, peg is a bit poor but other gear available, great stuff!

ksjs 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S

a real pleasure: the lower part is a delight and the traverse looks tricky but is fine and then, when you think its over, the finish takes a bit of effort. i headed right at finish - left looked unlikely and like it doesnt get done despite RF description. also, the tricky move isnt getting the peg its the traverse - if you do the traverse you should get the peg no problem. the peg can be backed up easily with a good wire (peg looked fine though). do it!

with phil
frost 29/Aug/10 2nd
with N Griffiths, D Garry
NeilGriffiths 29/Aug/10 Lead


with Dave Garry, Simon Frost
Rob Pitt 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Garan Comley
Jessie Rushbrooke 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

First E3

with GF
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
mux ??/2010 -
with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
Hidden 30/Jun/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Jun/09 2nd
datoon 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with K
LC ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Gus 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Paz 07/Jul/07 Lead dnf

Escaped up the HVS mud chimney. I had an attack of the shits/ nausea before hand (as if that's any excuse). I think you traverse R quite low on this route, though the CC description says go high on calcite foot holds, by which I presume they mean the quartzy blobs.

with TS
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd dog
Hidden 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
drysori ??/2007 2nd
Neil Ireson 21/Jul/06 Lead

A pleasant route with a puzzling crux (at least it was for me) and nicely safe, although I found the pre-crux gear fiddly to place. Only worth one star as there's really only 15-20 foot of E3 climbing the rest being HVS/E1.

with Jane
Bern ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Chad123 ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Fun steep moves to finish, think it's worth E3, harder than the butcher and ghost ship. You gotta keep moving on this one!

with Huw
Hidden 10/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 22/May/05 Lead O/S
with Tuffty Nick
Alan James - UKC and UKH 20/May/05 Lead

Easy E3. Good gear out left then a tricky traverse and up to the ancient peg.

with Gareth Hallam
Billg ??/2005 Lead O/S
Urgles ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Jack G
Hidden 26/Mar/04 Lead O/S
ian caton ?/May/03 Lead O/S

steady e3

with stewart
Hidden 09/Sep/99 2nd
Hidden 03/May/99 Lead
Hidden 01/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/98 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1998 2nd β
Hidden 23/Oct/97 Lead O/S
sadams 22/Jun/97 Lead
with Team Midlands
michael burrows 06/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with mark ryan
Hidden 16/Sep/95 2nd
jfletcher 29/May/94 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 Lead
with Graham Iles
Dave Musgrove 12/Apr/93 2nd

David Led

with Pete Finklaire, David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12/Apr/93 Lead

felt bold

Roget 18/Apr/92 2nd O/S
with colin, baccy
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/92 2nd
Steve Crowe 09/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/87 Lead
steve L 19/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Bruce Kerr 05/Apr/87 Lead
with Sandra Graham
andy gittins ??/1987 -
keefe 06/Sep/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Mike Owen 27/May/86 -
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 04/May/86 2nd
shark 03/Apr/86 Lead O/S
with Geraldine Taylor
Mark Kemball 21/Jul/83 Lead
with Dave Abbey
Hidden 17/Jul/82 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
drcorbasisgod, Owen W-G, waltersp
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set