UKC

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  

 

39m.

Rockfax Description
A little gem with weird rock at the bottom and a fine finishing crack. From the ledge move leftwards to an open groove. Pull right around a small roof and move up to another roof. Pass this on the left and finish up a thin crack in the wall left of the corner. © Rockfax

FA. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21/Feb/1987.

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes

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High E4
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High E3
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High E2
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Votes cast 16
High 6b
Mid 6b
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Well Hung

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Linney Head Area)

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