This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand side of the wall by a shallow groove, to a ledge on the right. Continue up the corner above. It can be started from the non-tidal ledge with a traverse. © Rockfax
FA. J.Harwood, P.Thomas Nov/1975.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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colin struthers | 29 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Partner also pulled off a big loose hold at the top. Landed exactly where I would have been standing had I stood on the right side of the belay ledge. Be smart, keep well to the left. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Partner also pulled off a big loose hold at the top. Landed exactly where I would have been standing had I stood on the right side of the belay ledge. Be smart, keep well to the left. |
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Nickuk | 30 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Partner got hit by a large loose rock on the abseil. Prussic and helmet essential. Lots of loose stuff at the top! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Partner got hit by a large loose rock on the abseil. Prussic and helmet essential. Lots of loose stuff at the top! |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(St. Govan's Head)