Pembrokeshire > Mowing Word >
 
Heart of Darkness*** HVS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
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Heart of Darkness/New Morning >>
[pickford_rich, 2 kb]75m, 3 pitches. One of the best HVSís in Britain. It is a bit like Dream of White Horses - no hard moves or bold bits, just mega holds and exposure. Best done in the afternoon to give the cave a chance to dry out. Start from the ledge, as described above. 1) 4c, 30m. Climb up the arete on the left to reach the line of breaks. Follow the breaks leftwards into the corner then step down. Continue traversing to a small ledge on the arete and belay. 2) 4c, 25m. Move left to a small corner then climb up to the belay ledge of Razorbill. Move left again then drop slightly down and follow the breaks into Diedre Sud. 3) 4a, 15m. Finish up Diedre Sud. © ROCKFAX
FA. J.Perrin 13.8.71 13/Aug/1971

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, HVS Adventures, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: pickford_rich © pickford_rich
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 122 logbooks, and on 85 wishlists.

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13

P1 & 3. Pumpy at the start. Amazing atmosphere!
Wilbur - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Paul Winder

love that feeling when you go around the arÍte and your breathe is taken away!
Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Jacquie

Led P1. Did it in two pitches as I went halfway into P2.
stuaart - AltLd - Aug/13 with Thomas Smith

samsimpson - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Mark Grist

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 06/Jul/13

2nd pitch.
Hardcore Pat - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Chris Vanderz

P2
David Kay - AltLd rpt - 03/Apr/13 with Dan Lane

Wow, just wow. I led P1 and 3.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with David Kirsfelds

adie84 - 2013

Phoebus - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/12

Ironically got benighted. Lead pitch one (fantastic) and Matt had to dog/aid his way across as he pumped out his forearms. Lead second pitch (awesome again) and Matt couldn't go on. Matt got rescued on top rope while I waited for a replacement second (Will) to get my gear back. Top roped last pitch as we couldn't see anything. Used 2 sets of cams on the climb and could have placed more! Despite the epic, great adventure!
partz - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Will Johnson, Matt Riordan

A true deffinition of epic for me on this one - cheers to Will, Joe for the rescue and Matt for having the patients of a saint!
Matt88 - 2nd dnf - 20/Oct/12 with matt everett

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/12

tom.e - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Claire

soph - Solo - 31/Aug/12 with Andy Reeve

Led P1 & finnished up the corner crack. Excellent climb.
jayrenegade - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/12 with Prav

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/12

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with adam booth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12

1st pitch. Scary as, take loads of cams and a confident seconder. Had backed off last year.
Jams Crwca - AltLd - 15/Jul/12 with Craig

rgd1977 - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12

The first pitch was the probably most adventurous climbing I have done, and felt very committing with a high sea and some wet holds. Finished up Razorbill due to an angry seagull on the arete left of Diedre Sud. We weren't in the bird banned areas so it must have been quite territorial.
David Kay - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Mel Michon

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 25/Jun/12

Stefan_Morris - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Dickon Morris

pembrokeshirecaver - AltLd - 09/Jun/12 with Stefan Morris

Superb! Atmospheric, even with a low tide and calm seas.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Claire

I lead P1 and P3, Barra did P2. It took about an hour from starting an abseil to topping out. I found P2 is slightly trickier technically, than P1, though less exposed. I imagine DWS ascent is possible. Great route, though not rivalling DoWH.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Lee Barra

Great atmospheric climb. And the work isn't over after P1, P2 is equally good!
Leelogs - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with climbingpixie

Wow, what a route. Led P2. Paul led P1. We then ab'd down two bottom of Diedre Sud, and Paul led that.
bigglesbutcha - AltLd O/S - 21/May/12 with Paul Horabin

paul horabin - AltLd - 21/May/12

chris_B - AltLd - 06/May/12 with Hamish Dunn

Kyuzo - 05/May/12

Led P1, P3(Diedre Sud)
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Charles Moreton

Dafydd Llywelyn - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Will Hunt

Led p2. Pitches 1 & 3 weren't new to me as I'd done both Diedre Sud & the Heart of Darkness/New Morning combination on previous occasions
cem - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

Led P1 & P3. Stunning.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Dafydd Llywelyn

hrgcb - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Virgil Scott

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Mar/12

stvredmond - AltLd - 27/Mar/12 with Sean mercer

alan moore - 2012

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Rob Adie, Chris Ashton

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11 with Ando

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Sep/11

Wow - another atmospheric route.
Swotson - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Ian Athroll

finished up right wall
Paul Bowen - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

Pete led the climb I struggled seconding it! plenty off holds and foot placements just think for my first traverse the exposure got the better off me.managed to get through it by putting some extra kit in.loved the climb after finishing it.
casey johns - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with pete blackbern, luke glaister

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11

what an epic climb. the best one to date, cant wait till next time as i want to lead it now.
luke glaister - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with pete blackbern, casey johns

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11

owb106 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Joe Premier

Led P2
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Jim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11

Paul Boggis - AltLd - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Rick Dunning - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Sep/10

Greasy!
sam820 - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Shivertron

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with S.Bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/10

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Sarah Joyce

Dave Rumney - Aug/10 with Tanya Milner

Wow! Led P1 & 3. The first pitch is one of the best I've done anywhere. Great climbing in a stunning position.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Dan

Led pitches 2 (including the end of 1) and 4.
dpmUK - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with victim of mathematics

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Helen Dale

Jamie Goodwin - AltLd - 20/Sep/09

Liam FLeming - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/09 with paul james

MD - AltLd - 29/Aug/09 with Paul H

Epic. led first pitch fine but mark fell off the traverse. Gear ripped leaving mark dangling. Thanks to climbers who rescued us. lessons on traverses well learned. Finished up new morning on top rope. great route all the same.
Ed morris - Lead dog - 22/Aug/09 with mark dwyer

Amazing
37degrees - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with J.Baker

feilx - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/08 with Floris

RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Trevor

Lead 2nd pitch. Route was wet - made it slightly trickier. Awesome position.
PenJD - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/08 with Mark Westerman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/08

@ndy - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/08

manwithacam - AltLd - 03/Aug/08 with C.W.

Hidden - AltLd dog - 02/Sep/07

Ooo er!! Not technical but make sure you have a steady second. We finished up the top pitch of Razorbill.
Ann S - 2nd - 28/Aug/07 with John Carlin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/07

tlmarjot - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Chris Todd

Rob Kennard - 2007

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

Fantastic first pitch and nice but easy finish up Diedre Sud. There are two obvious abseil blocks - use the one which is on the left as you are facing the sea and abseil to the right as you are facing the rock, otherwise you will end up dangling in space under the roof above the route! Take lots of big gear - and don't take cams if you want to make the route a bit more exciting...
Misha - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Mark

Fantastic route, very atmospheric pitches. We finished up The Right Wall (HVS).
My Gravity - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/06 with Simon S

david morse - Lead - Aug/06 with rampant

Hidden - AltLd - 2006

shoulders - Lead - 07/Aug/05 with dai

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/04

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/04 with Roni Beer

dicky79 - AltLd O/S - Sep/03 with Vic Odell

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/03 with Chris

Laramadness - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/02 with ST

davebrox - AltLd - Aug/00 with Jed

davebrox - AltLd - Aug/00 with Jed

as mentioned in my profile, fab route
Si Clapham - Lead - 2000 with Jim

Not sure of date
PeteCheung - 1999 with Ian

Did Heart of Darkness / new morning connection; great position on 1st pitch; awkward and pumpy on top
nickdonohue - AltLd - 28/Aug/98 with Mark McCarthy

Reds - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/97 with Sezer

Hidden - 1997

Colin Edwards - 2nd - Aug/96 with Simon Gough Brown

GuyM - 1996 with will

Colin Edwards - Lead - 25/Aug/94 with Simon Gough Brown

NeilGriffiths - 1994 with Paul Tucker

iskra2000 - AltLd - Sep/93 with Allen Abramson

Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/93 with Rachel Nicolson

keefe - 23/Sep/91

rob.grafton - 2nd - 24/Sep/90 with Bruce

steve taylor - Lead - Aug/90 with Dave Gilkes

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Feb/87

Nigel Bond - Lead - 27/Aug/84 with Ben Foord

RichardMc - AltLd - 1980 with John Evans

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Voting
Total votes cast 105
hard E10 of 36
E10 of 36
easy E10 of 36
hard HVS4 of 36
HVS25 of 36
easy HVS7 of 36
hard VS0 of 36
VS0 of 36
easy VS0 of 36
hard 5a0 of 34
5a0 of 34
easy 5a0 of 34
hard 4c6 of 34
4c25 of 34
easy 4c2 of 34
hard 4b1 of 34
4b0 of 34
easy 4b0 of 34
3 Stars34 of 35
2 Stars1 of 35
1 Star0 of 35
0 Stars0 of 35
Bag of .....0 of 35
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 122 (1.6%)
Lead27 of 122 (22.1%)
Followed10 of 122 (8.2%)
Alt Leads70 of 122 (57.4%)
Unknown13 of 122 (10.7%)

'Climbed'46 of 122 (37.7%)
clean O/S68 of 122 (55.7%)
clean rpt4 of 122 (3.3%)
dogged3 of 122 (2.5%)
dnf1 of 122 (0.8%)