75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best HVS's in Britain. It is a bit like Dream of White Horses - no hard moves or bold bits, just mega holds and exposure. Best done in the afternoon to give the cave a chance to dry out. Start from the ledge, as described above.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb up the arete on the left to reach the line of breaks. Follow the breaks leftwards into the corner then step down. Continue traversing to a small ledge on the arete and belay.
2) 4c, 25m. Move left to a small corner then climb up to the belay ledge of Razorbill. Move left again then drop slightly down and follow the breaks into Diedre Sud.
3) 4a, 15m. Finish up Diedre Sud. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin 13.8.71 13/Aug/1971

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, HVS Adventures, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate HVS ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist.

Slick 08/Oct -
gurumed 28/Sep AltLd
with Brian H, gjd
gjd 28/Sep AltLd O/S

led p2

with Brian H, Gurumed
Hidden 28/Sep Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 01/Sep AltLd O/S
with Paul Wolf
Dilwat 15/Aug AltLd O/S
SurferStan 15/Aug AltLd O/S

Simply awesome!

with Dilwat
thetradlad 10/Aug Lead O/S

Nice. Finished up Razorbill

with Ollie Willmot, Hallie, Annie Byass-Clark
Ian MK 27/May Lead O/S

Reached the belay ledge of New Morning in one pitch. completed in one more long pitch due to a grumpy seagull on the Diedre Sud Pitch and the worsening weather. Pitch one was awesome! Pitch 2/3 made more exciting by the rain.

with Anna
Anna Maykova 27/May 2nd
with Ian
Nevil 25/May AltLd
with Vince
Vincej 25/May AltLd
with Nevil
Nick Wallis ?/Apr AltLd O/S
with Simon Cooke
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
gjd 27/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

led p 1. New morning finish

with Gurumed
Hidden 24/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Julian Prieto 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 2

spidermonkey09 11/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led first and last pitch. Mega exposure, great holds and gear.

Ella7 11/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead p2. Would love to go back and lead 'the pitch'! - looks terrifying but not so bad really.

rd20 26/Aug/14 Lead β

RD P1, Patrick finished up Razorbills

with Patrick
Hidden 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd dnf
JonmapDL 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Pretty sensational.

with Claire Muir
1poundSOCKS 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

P1 only, to under the roof, bird ban on the rest of route. Great exposure, easy climbing.

Hidden 20/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 01/Dec/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Wilbur 08/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

P1 & 3. Pumpy at the start. Amazing atmosphere!

with Paul Winder
Helen Gibson 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

love that feeling when you go around the arÍte and your breathe is taken away!

with Jacquie
stuaart ?/Aug/13 AltLd

Led P1. Did it in two pitches as I went halfway into P2.

Sam Simpson 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 06/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hardcore Pat 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch.

with Chris Vanderz
David Kay 03/Apr/13 AltLd rpt


Dan Lane 03/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Wow, just wow. I led P1 and 3.

adie84 ??/2013 -
cymjt ??/2013 -
BenFitzG 24/Oct/12 Lead O/S
partz 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Ironically got benighted. Lead pitch one (fantastic) and Matt had to dog/aid his way across as he pumped out his forearms. Lead second pitch (awesome again) and Matt couldn't go on. Matt got rescued on top rope while I waited for a replacement second (Will) to get my gear back. Top roped last pitch as we couldn't see anything. Used 2 sets of cams on the climb and could have placed more! Despite the epic, great adventure!

Matt88 20/Oct/12 2nd dnf

A true deffinition of epic for me on this one - cheers to Will, Joe for the rescue and Matt for having the patients of a saint!

Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead
tom.e 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Claire
soph 31/Aug/12 Solo
with Andy Reeve
jayrenegade 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & finnished up the corner crack. Excellent climb.

with Prav
Hidden 29/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
edmitchell 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
andyjirvin 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Wow! What a route. Let down slightly by the finish - maybe New Morning finish would have been best option. Middle pitch is a bit chossy and line not very obvious, plus tricky belay stance. Finished up Razorbill as we'd already done Diedre Sud. First pitch is an absolute classic, cool moves around the corner and along t=most of the traverse - overhanging to my surprise! Great exposure.

Jams Crwca 15/Jul/12 AltLd

1st pitch. Scary as, take loads of cams and a confident seconder. Had backed off last year.

with Craig
rgd1977 09/Jul/12 Lead O/S
David Kay 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

The first pitch was the probably most adventurous climbing I have done, and felt very committing with a high sea and some wet holds. Finished up Razorbill due to an angry seagull on the arete left of Diedre Sud. We weren't in the bird banned areas so it must have been quite territorial.

with Mel Michon
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
Stefan_Morris 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Dickon Morris
pembrokeshirecaver 09/Jun/12 AltLd
climbingpixie 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Superb! Atmospheric, even with a low tide and calm seas.

with Claire
masa-alpin 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

I lead P1 and P3, Barra did P2. It took about an hour from starting an abseil to topping out. I found P2 is slightly trickier technically, than P1, though less exposed. I imagine DWS ascent is possible. Great route, though not rivalling DoWH.

with Lee Barra
Leelogs 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Great atmospheric climb. And the work isn't over after P1, P2 is equally good!

bigglesbutcha 21/May/12 AltLd O/S

Wow, what a route. Led P2. Paul led P1. We then ab'd down two bottom of Diedre Sud, and Paul led that.

with Paul Horabin
paul horabin 21/May/12 AltLd
chris_B 06/May/12 AltLd
Kyuzo 05/May/12 -
Kirill 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3(Diedre Sud)

Dafydd Llywelyn 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
cem 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led p2. Pitches 1 & 3 weren't new to me as I'd done both Diedre Sud & the Heart of Darkness/New Morning combination on previous occasions

Will Hunt 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3. Stunning.

hrgcb 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Virgil Scott
Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd
stvredmond 27/Mar/12 AltLd
alan moore ??/2012 -

Stirring stuff.

Rob84 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Rob Adie, Chris Ashton
mjeffery 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Ando
Hidden 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Paul Bowen 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

finished up right wall

liamoloughlin 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
casey johns 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Pete led the climb I struggled seconding it! plenty off holds and foot placements just think for my first traverse the exposure got the better off me.managed to get through it by putting some extra kit in.loved the climb after finishing it.

with pete blackbern, luke glaister
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
luke glaister 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S

what an epic climb. the best one to date, cant wait till next time as i want to lead it now.

with pete blackbern, casey johns
Hidden 23/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
owb106 23/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Jim
Hidden 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Paul Boggis ??/2011 AltLd
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rick Dunning ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/10 AltLd
sam820 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S


with Shivertron
Ollie B 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with S.Bennett
mattnuttall 30/Aug/10 Solo O/S

DWS... big sea... have great picture from the route of a girl getting soaked belayed on Diedre Sud. Ha!

Hidden 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/10 2nd rpt
irish paul 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Dave Rumney ?/Aug/10 -
with Tanya Milner
victim of mathematics 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Wow! Led P1 & 3. The first pitch is one of the best I've done anywhere. Great climbing in a stunning position.

with Dan
Hidden 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Laurence Everitt 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Helen Dale
Jamie Goodwin 20/Sep/09 AltLd
Liam FLeming 07/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with paul james
MD 29/Aug/09 AltLd
with Paul H
Pay Attention 29/Aug/09 AltLd
with MD
Ed morris 22/Aug/09 Lead dog

Epic. led first pitch fine but mark fell off the traverse. Gear ripped leaving mark dangling. Thanks to climbers who rescued us. lessons on traverses well learned. Finished up new morning on top rope. great route all the same.

with mark dwyer
37degrees 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S


with J.Baker
feilx 02/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Floris
RCrockford 21/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Trevor
PenJD 12/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Route was wet - made it slightly trickier. Awesome position.

Hidden 12/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
@ndy 08/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
manwithacam 03/Aug/08 AltLd
with C.W.
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden 02/Sep/07 AltLd dog
Ann S 28/Aug/07 2nd

Ooo er!! Not technical but make sure you have a steady second. We finished up the top pitch of Razorbill.

with John Carlin
Hidden 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead
tlmarjot ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Chris Todd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
Misha 08/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Fantastic first pitch and nice but easy finish up Diedre Sud. There are two obvious abseil blocks - use the one which is on the left as you are facing the sea and abseil to the right as you are facing the rock, otherwise you will end up dangling in space under the roof above the route! Take lots of big gear - and don't take cams if you want to make the route a bit more exciting...

with Mark
My Gravity 26/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, very atmospheric pitches. We finished up The Right Wall (HVS).

with Simon S
david morse ?/Aug/06 Lead
with rampant
Bry ??/2006 AltLd
shoulders 07/Aug/05 Lead
with dai
Tim Sparrow ??/2005 -
with Piers Nesbitt
nige pacer ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 28/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Roni Beer
dicky79 ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with Vic Odell
John Brayshaw 25/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Chris
Laramadness 06/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with ST
Hidden 19/Aug/00 AltLd O/S
davebrox ?/Aug/00 AltLd
with Jed
davebrox ?/Aug/00 AltLd
with Jed
Si Clapham ??/2000 Lead

as mentioned in my profile, fab route

with Jim
davebrox ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Jed
Hidden ??/1999 -
nickdonohue 28/Aug/98 AltLd

Did Heart of Darkness / new morning connection; great position on 1st pitch; awkward and pumpy on top

with Mark McCarthy
Reds 28/Sep/97 2nd dog
with Sezer
Hidden ??/1997 -
Colin Edwards ?/Aug/96 2nd
with Simon Gough Brown
GuyM ??/1996 -
with will
Colin Edwards 25/Aug/94 Lead
with Simon Gough Brown
NeilGriffiths ??/1994 -
with Paul Tucker
iskra2000 ?/Sep/93 AltLd
with Allen Abramson
Chris Ellis 25/Aug/93 AltLd
with Rachel Nicolson
keefe 23/Sep/91 -
rob.grafton 24/Sep/90 2nd
with Bruce
steve taylor ?/Aug/90 Lead
with Dave Gilkes
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 15/Feb/87 AltLd
Nevil ??/1985 -

Do not know year

Nigel Bond 27/Aug/84 Lead
with Ben Foord
RichardMc ??/1980 AltLd
with John Evans
steve L ??/1978 Lead O/S
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 44
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set