Heart of Darkness*** HVS 4c
[Ann S seconding Heart of Darkness,Mowing Word,Pembroke, 2 kb]75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best HVS's in Britain. It is a bit like Dream of White Horses - no hard moves or bold bits, just mega holds and exposure. Best done in the afternoon to give the cave a chance to dry out. Start from the ledge, as described above.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb up the arete on the left to reach the line of breaks. Follow the breaks leftwards into the corner then step down. Continue traversing to a small ledge on the arete and belay.
2) 4c, 25m. Move left to a small corner then climb up to the belay ledge of Razorbill. Move left again then drop slightly down and follow the breaks into Diedre Sud.
3) 4a, 15m. Finish up Diedre Sud. © ROCKFAX

FA. J.Perrin 13.8.71 13/Aug/1971

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, HVS Adventures, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: Ann S seconding Heart of Darkness,Mowing Word,Pembroke © John Carlin
View all 17 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 149 logbooks, and on 97 wishlists.

Dilwat - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with SurferStan

Simply awesome!
SurferStan - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Dilwat

Nice. Finished up Razorbill
thetradlad - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/15 with Ollie Willmot, Hallie, Annie Byass-Clark

Reached the belay ledge of New Morning in one pitch. completed in one more long pitch due to a grumpy seagull on the Diedre Sud Pitch and the worsening weather. Pitch one was awesome! Pitch 2/3 made more exciting by the rain.
Ian MK - Lead O/S - 27/May/15 with Anna

Anna Maykova - 2nd - 27/May/15 with Ian

Hidden - AltLd - 25/May/15

Vincej - AltLd - 25/May/15 with Nevil

Nick Wallis - AltLd O/S - Apr/15 with Simon Cooke

led p 1. New morning finish
gjd - AltLd rpt - 27/Sep/14 with Gurumed

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Sep/14

Led P1 & 2
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Alan Turner

Led first and last pitch. Mega exposure, great holds and gear.
spidermonkey09 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/14 with Ellie Fuller

Lead p2. Would love to go back and lead 'the pitch'! - looks terrifying but not so bad really.
Ella7 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/14 with Jim Hulbert

RD P1, Patrick finished up Razorbills
rd20 - Lead β - 26/Aug/14 with Patrick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 23/Aug/14

Pretty sensational.
JonmapDL - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Claire Muir

P1 only, to under the roof, bird ban on the rest of route. Great exposure, easy climbing.
1poundSOCKS - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Apr/14

Hidden - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13

P1 & 3. Pumpy at the start. Amazing atmosphere!
Wilbur - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Paul Winder

love that feeling when you go around the arÍte and your breathe is taken away!
Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Jacquie

Led P1. Did it in two pitches as I went halfway into P2.
stuaart - AltLd - Aug/13 with Thomas Smith

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Mark Grist

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 06/Jul/13

2nd pitch.
Hardcore Pat - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Chris Vanderz

David Kay - AltLd rpt - 03/Apr/13 with Dan Lane

Wow, just wow. I led P1 and 3.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with David Kirsfelds

adie84 - 2013

cymjt - 2013

Phoebus - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/12

Ironically got benighted. Lead pitch one (fantastic) and Matt had to dog/aid his way across as he pumped out his forearms. Lead second pitch (awesome again) and Matt couldn't go on. Matt got rescued on top rope while I waited for a replacement second (Will) to get my gear back. Top roped last pitch as we couldn't see anything. Used 2 sets of cams on the climb and could have placed more! Despite the epic, great adventure!
partz - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Will Johnson, Matt Riordan

A true deffinition of epic for me on this one - cheers to Will, Joe for the rescue and Matt for having the patients of a saint!
Matt88 - 2nd dnf - 20/Oct/12 with matt everett

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/12

tom.e - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Claire

soph - Solo - 31/Aug/12 with Andy Reeve

Led P1 & finnished up the corner crack. Excellent climb.
jayrenegade - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/12 with Prav

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/12

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with adam booth

Wow! What a route. Let down slightly by the finish - maybe New Morning finish would have been best option. Middle pitch is a bit chossy and line not very obvious, plus tricky belay stance. Finished up Razorbill as we'd already done Diedre Sud. First pitch is an absolute classic, cool moves around the corner and along t=most of the traverse - overhanging to my surprise! Great exposure.
andyjirvin - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12

1st pitch. Scary as, take loads of cams and a confident seconder. Had backed off last year.
Jams Crwca - AltLd - 15/Jul/12 with Craig

rgd1977 - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12

The first pitch was the probably most adventurous climbing I have done, and felt very committing with a high sea and some wet holds. Finished up Razorbill due to an angry seagull on the arete left of Diedre Sud. We weren't in the bird banned areas so it must have been quite territorial.
David Kay - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Mel Michon

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 25/Jun/12

Stefan_Morris - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Dickon Morris

pembrokeshirecaver - AltLd - 09/Jun/12 with Stefan Morris

Superb! Atmospheric, even with a low tide and calm seas.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Claire

I lead P1 and P3, Barra did P2. It took about an hour from starting an abseil to topping out. I found P2 is slightly trickier technically, than P1, though less exposed. I imagine DWS ascent is possible. Great route, though not rivalling DoWH.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Lee Barra

Great atmospheric climb. And the work isn't over after P1, P2 is equally good!
Leelogs - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with climbingpixie

Wow, what a route. Led P2. Paul led P1. We then ab'd down two bottom of Diedre Sud, and Paul led that.
bigglesbutcha - AltLd O/S - 21/May/12 with Paul Horabin

paul horabin - AltLd - 21/May/12

chris_B - AltLd - 06/May/12 with Hamish Dunn

Kyuzo - 05/May/12

Led P1, P3(Diedre Sud)
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Charles Moreton

Dafydd Llywelyn - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Will Hunt

Led p2. Pitches 1 & 3 weren't new to me as I'd done both Diedre Sud & the Heart of Darkness/New Morning combination on previous occasions
cem - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

Led P1 & P3. Stunning.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Dafydd Llywelyn

hrgcb - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with Virgil Scott

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Mar/12

stvredmond - AltLd - 27/Mar/12 with Sean mercer

Stirring stuff.
alan moore - 2012

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Rob Adie, Chris Ashton

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11 with Ando

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11

finished up right wall
Paul Bowen - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

Pete led the climb I struggled seconding it! plenty off holds and foot placements just think for my first traverse the exposure got the better off me.managed to get through it by putting some extra kit in.loved the climb after finishing it.
casey johns - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with pete blackbern, luke glaister

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11

what an epic climb. the best one to date, cant wait till next time as i want to lead it now.
luke glaister - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with pete blackbern, casey johns

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11

owb106 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Joe Premier

Led P2
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Jim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11

Paul Boggis - AltLd - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Rick Dunning - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Sep/10

sam820 - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Shivertron

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with S.Bennett

DWS... big sea... have great picture from the route of a girl getting soaked belayed on Diedre Sud. Ha!
mattnuttall - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/10

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Sarah Joyce

Dave Rumney - Aug/10 with Tanya Milner

Wow! Led P1 & 3. The first pitch is one of the best I've done anywhere. Great climbing in a stunning position.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Dan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Helen Dale

Jamie Goodwin - AltLd - 20/Sep/09

Liam FLeming - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/09 with paul james

MD - AltLd - 29/Aug/09 with Paul H

Epic. led first pitch fine but mark fell off the traverse. Gear ripped leaving mark dangling. Thanks to climbers who rescued us. lessons on traverses well learned. Finished up new morning on top rope. great route all the same.
Ed morris - Lead dog - 22/Aug/09 with mark dwyer

37degrees - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with J.Baker

feilx - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/08 with Floris

RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Trevor

Lead 2nd pitch. Route was wet - made it slightly trickier. Awesome position.
PenJD - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/08 with Mark Westerman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/08

@ndy - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/08

manwithacam - AltLd - 03/Aug/08 with C.W.

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd dog - 02/Sep/07

Ooo er!! Not technical but make sure you have a steady second. We finished up the top pitch of Razorbill.
Ann S - 2nd - 28/Aug/07 with John Carlin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/07

tlmarjot - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Chris Todd

Rob Kennard - 2007

janegallwey - 2nd - 2007

Fantastic first pitch and nice but easy finish up Diedre Sud. There are two obvious abseil blocks - use the one which is on the left as you are facing the sea and abseil to the right as you are facing the rock, otherwise you will end up dangling in space under the roof above the route! Take lots of big gear - and don't take cams if you want to make the route a bit more exciting...
Misha - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Mark

Fantastic route, very atmospheric pitches. We finished up The Right Wall (HVS).
My Gravity - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/06 with Simon S

david morse - Lead - Aug/06 with rampant

Bry - AltLd - 2006

shoulders - Lead - 07/Aug/05 with dai

nige pacer - Lead O/S - Oct/04

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/04 with Roni Beer

dicky79 - AltLd O/S - Sep/03 with Vic Odell

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/03 with Chris

Laramadness - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/02 with ST

davebrox - AltLd - Aug/00 with Jed

davebrox - AltLd - Aug/00 with Jed

as mentioned in my profile, fab route
Si Clapham - Lead - 2000 with Jim

davebrox - Lead O/S - Aug/99 with Jed

Hidden - 1999

Did Heart of Darkness / new morning connection; great position on 1st pitch; awkward and pumpy on top
nickdonohue - AltLd - 28/Aug/98 with Mark McCarthy

Reds - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/97 with Sezer

Hidden - 1997

Colin Edwards - 2nd - Aug/96 with Simon Gough Brown

GuyM - 1996 with will

Colin Edwards - Lead - 25/Aug/94 with Simon Gough Brown

NeilGriffiths - 1994 with Paul Tucker

iskra2000 - AltLd - Sep/93 with Allen Abramson

Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/93 with Rachel Nicolson

keefe - 23/Sep/91

rob.grafton - 2nd - 24/Sep/90 with Bruce

steve taylor - Lead - Aug/90 with Dave Gilkes

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Feb/87

Hidden - 1985

Nigel Bond - Lead - 27/Aug/84 with Ben Foord

RichardMc - AltLd - 1980 with John Evans

steve L - Lead O/S - 1978

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