35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb route which takes the right-hand of the two cracks on the left side of the headwall. At high tide it is possible to abseil straight to the stance and just do the top pitch which is very atmospheric when the sea is in. Start at a rightwards facing corner below the right-hand side of the headwall.
1) 5a, 10m. Climb the corner to a ledge on the left (often wet).
2) 5c, 25m. Move up and left, on large holds, to a short arete. Continue with difficulty to the right-hand crack and climb this. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 4.77 Apr/1977

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke.


ClimberDateStyle
Lenny 17/Sep AltLd O/S
with Mark (Jumper)
Hidden 17/Sep Lead O/S
markalmack 28/Aug Lead O/S

Top pitch only. There is an easy way to get up onto the block, you just have to work out how. Took me a while.

Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Ramon Marin 08/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Wow, what an experience! was fully gripped by the exposure. I think this is a fair E4 6a with the fridge block missing

with dave pickford
Tubs 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Dave M
Ed morris 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S

My poor arms, led the crux pitch, hard and sustained. Ace climbing though, the rock scar makes for some fantastic back and footing.

with Adam Bevan
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd β
Seymore Butt ??/2012 -
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead dog
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
BeccaSnowden 11/Sep/10 2nd dog

Got freaked out by the fridge-sized loose block! Did not enjoy!!! Really hard too!

with Tom
thomasadixon 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, don't think they could be strung together really - certainly not on a single! Felt tough at E3 let alone being E2...didn't realise it was supposed to be a jamming crack though, if I had I wouldn't have done it! Glad I did, absolutely awesome route, including the wet corner to start. Do remember the massive loose block...but the rest was worth the scare :)

with Becca
Hidden 29/Aug/10 2nd
david morse 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Top pitch only, rapped in at high tide. Super steep, was hard to swing into the belay. Very intimidating crag, right up there with Carey's and the Leap. You need to jam on this one, 3 star classic

with chris todd
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd dog
irish paul 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead dog
belay bunny turned bad 18/Aug/09 AltLd

Led the first wet pitch!! Top pitch is hard.

with loundsy
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 23/Sep/08 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Sep/08 Lead dnf
Steve Crowe 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Gus 29/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/05 AltLd
GuyM ??/2005 -
with jim
Hidden 13/Aug/03 Lead
Rock Fairy ?/Sep/01 2nd

Upper pitch STEEP

with david
Julian Wedd ??/2001 Lead
with A. Howarth
Rich Kirby 14/Sep/99 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

with Hugh
PaulTanton 15/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden 23/Sep/95 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/95 AltLd
keefe 25/Sep/91 -
michael burrows 23/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with steve williams
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
with Nick Dalzell
andy gittins ??/1987 -
ukb shark 14/Sep/84 2nd
steve.aisthorpe 14/Sep/84 Lead
with shark
Mark Kemball 08/Sep/82 Lead
with Steve Finch
Hidden 14/Apr/79 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matthew Ferrier, Hidden, Ian Jones, Steven Carter, mike mo, Hidden, Ropeboy, drcorbasisgod, rc, tobydunford, a_radiohead_fan, Kyuzo
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 17
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set