Pembrokeshire > Stackpole Head >
 
Heaven's Door*** E3 5c

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[When I was young and skinny (and seemingly had a massive chin!), 2 kb]35m, 2 pitches. A superb route which takes the right-hand of the two cracks on the left side of the headwall. At high tide it is possible to abseil straight to the stance and just do the top pitch which is very atmospheric when the sea is in. Start at a rightwards facing corner below the right-hand side of the headwall. 1) 5a, 10m. Climb the corner to a ledge on the left (often wet). 2) 5c, 25m. Move up and left, on large holds, to a short arete. Continue with difficulty to the right-hand crack and climb this. © ROCKFAX
FA. P.Littlejohn 4.77 Apr/1977

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: When I was young and skinny (and seemingly had a massive chin!) © Alan Leary
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

My poor arms, led the crux pitch, hard and sustained. Ace climbing though, the rock scar makes for some fantastic back and footing.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Adam Bevan

Seymore Butt - 2012

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Aug/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

Got freaked out by the fridge-sized loose block! Did not enjoy!!! Really hard too!
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 11/Sep/10 with Tom

Lead both pitches, don't think they could be strung together really - certainly not on a single! Felt tough at E3 let alone being E2...didn't realise it was supposed to be a jamming crack though, if I had I wouldn't have done it! Glad I did, absolutely awesome route, including the wet corner to start. Do remember the massive loose block...but the rest was worth the scare :)
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Becca

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/10

Top pitch only, rapped in at high tide. Super steep, was hard to swing into the belay. Very intimidating crag, right up there with Carey's and the Leap. You need to jam on this one, 3 star classic
david morse - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10 with chris todd

A savage jamming crack you don't see very often in Pembs!
dave657 - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/10 with paul b

irish paul - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Dave Ripley

soph - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Dan McManus

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Aug/09

Led the first wet pitch!! Top pitch is hard.
belay bunny turned bad - AltLd - 18/Aug/09 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead - 2009

the juicy dangler - 2nd dog - 23/Sep/08 with rob greenwood

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/07

Gus - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/06

Bern - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/05

GuyM - 2005 with jim

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/03

Upper pitch STEEP
Rock Fairy - 2nd - Sep/01 with david

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2001 with A. Howarth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/99

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/99 with Dave Taylor

Hidden - Lead - 23/Sep/95

ChrisJD - AltLd - 16/Sep/95 with PaulOr

keefe - 25/Sep/91

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/90 with steve williams

andy gittins - 1987

shark - 2nd - 14/Sep/84 with Steve Aisthorpe

Mark Kemball - Lead - 08/Sep/82 with Steve Finch

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Apr/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Steven Carter, mike mo, Hidden, Ropeboy, drcorbasisgod, Hidden, tobydunford, a_radiohead_fan, Kyuzo

Voting
Total votes cast 47
hard E40 of 16
E40 of 16
easy E40 of 16
hard E31 of 16
E30 of 16
easy E312 of 16
hard E21 of 16
E22 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard 6a0 of 16
6a0 of 16
easy 6a1 of 16
hard 5c1 of 16
5c14 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
hard 5b0 of 16
5b0 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
3 Stars13 of 15
2 Stars2 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Lead16 of 35 (45.7%)
Followed6 of 35 (17.1%)
Alt Leads7 of 35 (20.0%)
Unknown6 of 35 (17.1%)

'Climbed'17 of 35 (48.6%)
clean O/S11 of 35 (31.4%)
dogged5 of 35 (14.3%)
dnf2 of 35 (5.7%)