Rockfax Description
The wall just left of the through cave. Climb cracks in the wall to a triangular niche (historical belay). Move right out of this and follow more cracks to the top. © Rockfax

FA. L.Noble 31.12.68 31/Dec/1968

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe.

Hidden 01/Nov 2nd
Hidden 01/Nov Lead O/S
Claireybloomers 31/Oct 2nd dog
with Andy
gurumed 27/Sep 2nd O/S
with Brian H
Hidden 27/Sep Lead O/S
GridNorth 09/Sep Lead

Did this after forgetting to bring one of the ropes to do Straight Gate. Doh. Felt tough for Severe IMO.

with Martin Lancaster
Kizzy 01/Sep -
Stanners 15/Aug Lead O/S

Went up this after deciding inner space was for another day. First pitch seemed stiff for Severe!

with Andy G
Hidden ?/Aug 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul Lead O/S
mjeffery 17/Jun Lead O/S
with Steve
james1978 08/Jun Lead
staceyjg 27/May 2nd RP

Severe???? I don't know what planet this gets a severe on!!! I'm comfortable leading most vs and I backed off this route and my partner had to lead it! Whether it's just tricky for the short, but this has been upgraded in the latest CC guide ok to VS

bobstones 24/May Lead O/S

There's a tricky section that's quite bold before getting to the niche other wise a straightforward enjoyable route.

helen.baldwin 23/May 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 23/May Lead
bigie bob 23/May 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 22/May 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 01/May Lead O/S
SEDaniels 01/May 2nd O/S
luke glaister 18/Apr 2nd O/S

No way a severe. A vs start and h's finish. Brilliant route. I'd easy give 2 of my **s to it.

casey johns 18/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Apr 2nd O/S
onlyfoddington 06/Apr Lead O/S

I made a bit of a meal of it, and sweated a lot, and bloodied my knee. VS 4c in the climbers club guide.

with Tor, Ian
ian d f 06/Apr 2nd rpt
with Tor, David Brock
Hidden 04/Apr Lead O/S
Ollie B 04/Apr Solo O/S
with Robyn
Hidden ?/Apr Lead
Hidden 21/Mar Lead O/S
heather rogers 26/Jan 2nd β
with Feilx
matt.woodfield 06/Jan Lead O/S
Ian craigie ??/2015 Solo
with Karen Mackintyre, Niels Ernst williams
PilarMartinez 08/Sep/14 -

Wouldn't say is a Severe. Some hard moves at the beginning. The crag at the top is worth giving it a go instead of exiting on the right where seems everyone goes as the rock is worn out.

with TheCherokee
brian watson 08/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 08/Sep/14 AltLd
AdamCB 19/Aug/14 Lead
Andy Chubb 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S

I'd say this is worth VS. It's only 4b climbing but in a serious situation and could blow the mind of a severe leader. Great route though.

with Nick Gregory
leon 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

i guess i should have expected some hand jamming...

Hidden 06/Aug/14 2nd
JClimb 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Rick Sewards
Richard P Coates 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S
HassenBali 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Eoinparker 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S
erica 11/Jul/14 2nd
with John
John Brayshaw 11/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Erica
Curly Rich 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with gmc
Spillers 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Nathan Kitcher
Hidden 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S
CameronH 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Phil Glass
Helen Gibson 19/Jun/14 Lead
mossrug 09/Jun/14 -
with tony penning
Dan Geh 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Paddy, Will
Hidden 30/May/14 2nd
John Pickles 30/May/14 Lead O/S
AndrewP 27/May/14 2nd O/S

I'd give this HS 4b.

FelixPeterken 27/May/14 Lead O/S

Definitely harder than s, some awkward jamming moves lower down

Hidden 24/May/14 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 02/May/14 Lead O/S
with Erica
erica 02/May/14 2nd
with John
Nick Russell 12/Apr/14 2nd

An entertaining route. Borderline HS/VS.

SJS 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Nick
Roo123 09/Apr/14 2nd

Drenched through whilst belaying..

AnnMarie3 24/Sep/13 AltLd
Calder 20/Sep/13 2nd

Big thank you to the guys who chucked me a rope after Rich broke his ankle - I really didn't fancy prussicking out!

Pero 11/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Wilbur 09/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Severe. Err no. Harder than diedre sud to name but one example

with Paul Winder
Elliott90 ?/Sep/13 2nd
with Rhys Treharne
AMJ098 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Fran coles
Hidden 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead
jsw1 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Did this after doing Sea Groove nearby, which is a VS 4b. This route is harder than that and should be graded as such. The twin cracks near the bottom are quite stiff for any Severe leader. Once you have abseiled down to do it you need to be able to climb back out or you are in for a swim, so I would recommend only for those confident at HS 4b or above. Absolutely great route though, the moves out of the niche had me laughing out loud to myself, great fun.

with Steve Lyon
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
UnkArl 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd
m675bowsl 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
SianD 09/Aug/13 2nd
Matt1234 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 26/Jun/13 Solo O/S
KDhruev 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Katie
Julie Carroll 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Sol Fernandez
Tightsgirl 23/Apr/13 2nd
arose 23/Apr/13 Lead

Had to go back up for the other rope! Great route

Hidden 05/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/13 2nd
jcw ??/2013 -
Alex179 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
gjd 24/Sep/12 2nd O/S

One of the toughest and best severes I've ever done. Surely worth more than one star?

with Mark V
Stefan_Morris 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dickon Morris
Graham Westbrook 03/Sep/12 2nd
JamesColeman ?/Sep/12 TR O/S

top rope solo

stephenarnold 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/12 2nd
The_Boy_ODwyer 04/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Colin Harvey
Hidden 04/Jul/12 2nd O/S
BenedictIEP 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Dan Lane 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Severe my arse! This felt harder than the VS to the left!

Alex Thompson 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Fairly tough for the grade. Dan faffed for ages...

with Brizzle Brian, Dan Lane, Ben Powrie
Brian Moseley 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Alex Munnery 23/May/12 2nd O/S
with NathanW
erbridger 22/May/12 Lead
paul horabin 16/May/12 AltLd O/S
steven 16/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Paul Horabin
Olli-C 04/May/12 AltLd

Hardest Severe ever. Rachel lead the VS for the second pitch, this was much nicer and much easier.

Rachel Slater 04/May/12 AltLd O/S

lead p2 but accidently strayed onto the vs to the left.

NathanW ?/May/12 Lead O/S
andy dunn 07/Apr/12 2nd
with Big Ben
Rhydian Evans 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
ben1987 ?/Apr/12 -
Jimboandrews. 12/Mar/12 -
Adam Coles ??/2012 Lead O/S
RosiePalmer 13/Dec/11 2nd O/S
chris687 18/Oct/11 Lead O/S
garethsteel 18/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S


Ellen Cobby 23/Sep/11 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd O/S
fathobbit ?/Sep/11 Lead dog
James Oswald 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S

The longest belay of my life. Ever. But Chris got it eventually! Keeping to the right hand crack is nice and feels about VS.

with Chris Mullaney, Kyle Wood
Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Liam Byrne
Stone Muppet 28/Aug/11 2nd
Mr. K 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
fathobbit 28/Aug/11 Lead
with Mr. K
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/11 2nd
Babika 14/Aug/11 2nd

Agree with others that this isn't Severe. Pretty steep stuff in the lower half by the hand jams. I would give VS 4b myself.

with Charles Leek
Graeme Hammond 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Phil PBC 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
dj hannaford 20/Jun/11 2nd O/S

was chucking it down, however a truely amazing climb

with pablo thourne, Tom colquhoun
tim20 09/Jun/11 Lead
with pabs
johnpuddephatt 01/May/11 2nd O/S

Stiff for the grade. Felt like HS. Seconded in trainers.

Will Hunt 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
prwalker 24/Apr/11 Lead

Pumpy but brilliant route.

with Ali Hutton
EmilyElouise 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tobydunford 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
ksjs 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S


with phil
ezclimber 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with matthew ch
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Alasdair88 22/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Leelogs 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with SCC
ben47h 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
john_ohlsson 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

done in 2 pitches bommers gear

Macca9999 10/Aug/10 Lead
andy dunn 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

cool line on steeper ground than you'd usually expect given the grade.

with Alan
john_ohlsson 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Macca9999 04/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
siwclimber 28/Jul/10 2nd

very big rocks need seagul bashers (hex's) and plenty of slings.

with Rachel
RachelP 28/Jul/10 Lead

Swian, Alis, Niamh

with AAC
Hidden 26/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead
martinp 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with PaulR
Edd Reed 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Donna Mawson
cliffy 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ollie Dorrell
Rob84 03/May/10 TR O/S

Started off on the lead, but got to the tricky move at the twin cracks below the niche and after trying it a few times I wasn't convinced so pansied out and called for a top rope. (1st time that's happened and a bit embarassing on a Sev!) I'm probably very biased now, but I'd say it's a real sandbag - it was touch and go even with a TR. The rest of the route is fair at the grade and very nice, but that little section is tough!

with Lou
JonBrown 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Sion
Helen Gibson 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Richard
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
ian d f 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Grace Chuchla
Macca9999 23/Jan/10 Lead
cymjt ??/2010 -
pembrokeshirecaver 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S

blatantly HS

Skinny Kin 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Some exposure near the top. Quite decent for a severe. Plenty enough gear. Not quite a 3 star route to me.

with Pete White
Peter White 29/Aug/09 Lead
Peter White 29/Aug/09 2nd
with Robin Sillen
AndrewShanks 29/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Steve Loft
Fat Tim 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mark kauntz
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead
Ed morris 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with arthur
Little AndyH 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with maria thorpe
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Jun/09 2nd
chiverstom 25/May/09 2nd O/S
drysori 25/May/09 Lead
Bux 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ruth Bevan
Chris the Tall 26/Sep/08 2nd

Used as an escape route when we couldn't get to Rock Idol. Nice route, but more like VS

with Dom Ske
thomasadixon 31/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Ybot Htulk 31/Aug/08 Lead
with Tom Dixon
climber130887 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Ben Griffiths 05/May/08 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Bull
d_meacher 08/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 08/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead β
drysori ??/2008 Lead
Adam Booth ??/2008 Lead O/S

?what year

Ali3735 ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Andy M
Richard ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Carrie
Ann S 28/Aug/07 2nd

Bit stiff at this grade, unless we were on a wrong line!!

with John Carlin
Hidden 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt ??/2007 -
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with martina
chris j 25/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with James & Doug
Matty ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Carl Reilly
tom_1985 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Matt Davies
Andy Barwell ?/Jun/06 Lead
Jules_Robbo ?/Jun/06 2nd
with James Cross, Sarah Burkitt
Hidden ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
alicia 30/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Tim Wilkinson
Tim W 30/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with alicia
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Sam and will 18/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett + Ben Bennett
dicky79 ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with Vic Odell
ASchwirtz 08/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Marq 30/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
ferdia 16/Jan/05 2nd
with Andrew Wielochowski
cem 28/Aug/04 2nd
with Liam Mark
Laramadness 30/Jul/04 2nd β
Hidden ?/Apr/03 2nd
cornishben ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
Hidden ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -
John Southworth ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
Hidden 24/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Andy Say 31/May/89 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/May/89 2nd
BigHairyIan 08/Apr/88 Lead O/S
with Little Dean (Dean Gibbs)
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1987 Lead O/S
hazeysunshine ?/Jun/85 AltLd O/S
with Jo
mark-abz 08/Nov/80 2nd
with ?
Hidden 13/Apr/79 Solo
steve L 25/Sep/78 Lead O/S
with Morty
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Dan Svensson, Ciderslider, atthedropofahat, Steveb27, Hidden, Hidden, andyurwin84, Sazzlecymru, Richard Morgan
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set