Threadneedle Street*** S
[A real adventure! Threadneedle Street, Severe, Mother Carey's Kitchen, 2 kb]40m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant and highly entertaining route that gets you into some spectacular situations. It is probably best to do it in the three short pitches to avoid rope drag and the route is a bit harder when wet (which it often is). Start by scrambling through the upper through-cave dropping down and heading left to the very back of the chimney.
1) 12m. Climb the chimney mainly on the left wall, to a stance.
2) 15m. Traverse out and left along a massive juggy hand-rail, to the mouth of the cave. Pull up then step left to a triangular niche.
3) 10m. Move right out of the niche and climb a crack to a short corner and the top. This is the top of The Cracks. © ROCKFAX

FA. R.Crewe 25.3.78 25/Mar/1978

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50.

Photo: A real adventure! Threadneedle Street, Severe, Mother Carey's Kitchen © drcorbasisgod
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 183 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

FlavioL1989 - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/15 with Raj Bisht

rajeshwarbisht - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/15 with Flavio

Brilliant little adventure. The Jug rail didn't disappoint!
Stanners - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Andy G

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/15

Keith Swainson - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/15 with James Turner, Georgie

Georgie25 - AltLd - 25/Jul/15

Lead pitch 1 and 3.
Katie Proctor - AltLd dog - 22/Jul/15 with EndHumanity

P1 - KP - Easily the hardest pitch P2 - Me - Those rails though. P3 - KP - Pleasant. The belay spot has great sea views.
GainzULMC - AltLd - 22/Jul/15 with Katie Proctor

Dervey - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/15 with Liam

Much easier this time as moved round earlier to a lower stance at the end of the first pitch -- thus avoiding sand-boulder horror.
andy_pemberton - Lead - 26/May/15 with Dave Marshall

Lead P 1 and 3. Great fun!
Anna Maykova - AltLd - 25/May/15 with Ian

Where to begin on this one......... The first pitch is nowhere near severe as most other people have said. It's awkward 3D climbing, quite bold and hard to decipher where to go. Second starts with a down climb then on to the easy traverse finished with a tricky step around the corner and small traverse into the niche. Third start with a bold(ish) step right then a romp to the top. Fantastic route, loads of fun and great positions but be prepared!!
bobstones - Lead O/S - 24/May/15 with Sophie Gibbens

A classic adventure that includes all types.
chancer - AltLd O/S - 24/May/15 with Jason Wood

M_Robinson - Lead O/S - 01/May/15 with Sophie Daniels

SEDaniels - 2nd O/S - 01/May/15 with Mike Robinson

RWelch - 2nd O/S - 01/May/15

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/15

Ian1987 - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/15

Only did first 2 pitches as there were choppers holding up the show on the cracks.
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/15 with ian

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/14

jbb - 2nd - 28/Sep/14

jon22 - Lead - 24/Sep/14 with manxclare

Led traverse second pitch. Awesome holds and big threads! Really cool route but probably HS for the first pitch.
spidermonkey09 - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/14 with Ellie Fuller

3rd pitch
clairemathews - AltLd - 30/Aug/14 with Martin Bagshaw

clairemathews - AltLd - 30/Aug/14 with Martin Bagshaw

A nice mini expedition. Didn't quite get the clue on what gear it might require, but I made do.
Martin Bagshaw - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Claire Mathews

Brilliant effort by Kat to lead the difficult P1 (much harder than severe!). I led the enjoyable jug traverse of P2. Kat finished by leading P3.
James_L88 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/14 with Kat Day

Steven Carter - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Trythallj

This is very scary first pitch it isn't an S more like a HVS, don't even think about committing down there unless you can comfortably climb the grade, we believe there has been a rock fall making it much harder. It is amazing climb, pitch 2 and 3 are very good an more like a S, however very exposed. Awesome!
cs8sz - 27/Jul/14

Led P1 and P2. P1 involved bridging onto and topping out onto scary pile of sand/mud. High belay felt dangerous (VERY loose blocks). Dropped down to start of P2 traverse to much better stance. P2 and P3 well protected and pleasant. A real adventure!
adam clarke - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Adam Lynch

NickyC - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Zain Karim

erica - 2nd - 11/Jul/14 with John

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/14 with Erica

tgeh - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with imogene

ifletcher - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with tgeh

Accidentally led first half of Karma Waters instead of P1! ALso led P3
CameronH - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Phil Glass

Hidden - AltLd RP - 13/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/14

Sam backed off the first pitch, so I lead it with half the gear in. Then lead the 3rd pitch which was pleasant. First pitch was scary, Loose rock and more like VS.
HazelMacLean - AltLd β - 13/Jun/14 with Sam Hockley

Lizzie B - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Charlie

chappers909 - 2nd - 05/Jun/14 with Patrick Hill, Dan Geh

Dan Geh - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/14 with Paddy, Will

Stefan_Morris - AltLd - 27/May/14 with Hannah Thompson

hannahmmt - AltLd O/S - 27/May/14 with Stefan

S in the rockfax, VS in the new CC book, VS crumbling slimey, friable bag of shite with loads of seriously big loose boulders right above you for the first pitch. Never found out about the other 2 pitches as we backed off.
007 - 25/May/14

P1 is never Severe! Do you go all the way to the top of the chimney (sand encased boulders) or nip off around the left edge 3m earlier?? P2 has the biggest holds I have ever seen!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 10/Apr/14 with Richard Woods

Lead 1st and 3rd. The first pitch was slimy, damp, looked like the sandy mud the rocks were lodged in was about to collapse and a really hard pitch for Severe, VS? It is a cool location though, 2nd has amazing threads and 3rd is good, both more like Severe
Ella7 - AltLd O/S - 2014 with Jim Hulbert

mike mo - 2014

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches.
gurumed - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/13 with John

Hidden - Solo - 23/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/13

Hidden - 25/Aug/13

Rob84 - 2nd rpt - 21/Aug/13 with Rob Adie

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/13

LiamAD - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/13 with Jonathan Jones, Scott Kent

Made a video but very slow climbing
JonathanJones - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/13 with Scott, Liam

Matt1234 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13

Cool wee adventure: caving, bird life, and a surprise offwidth when I strayed onto the E1 to finish! Great exposure over the cave.
Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/13

Elsier - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Adrian

Now VS 4a. Pretty cool- there were birds high above us but didn't seem bothered
NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with David Barlow

guy757 - 05/Jun/13

Wild adventure. Bit of a sandbag as first pitch is awkward and it took me a while to find the correct line
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Yoko

adie84 - 2013

Alex179 - 2nd - 20/Oct/12

Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Andre Steele

Now VS 4a ... an adventure :-)
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with george

I led p2 - pretty cool traverse!
Binder - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Liz F

Was told to go through the blowhole on the right hand wall, was unconvinced and couldn't commit t0o any route.
BenedictIEP - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/12 with Brian Moseley

It was my "suggestion". I led the first pitch by threading the needle through the blowhole on the right looking in, at about shoulder height from the bottom of the cave. It seemed like the logical thing to do to match the route name. Plus the steps on the left wall were wet and slimy. Post yourself up the left hand tube. Dark but easy. This leads to the bower above with a couple of threads and a pocket that takes a large Friend. Hand traverse the leaning wall on jugs to join the guidebook described start at the start of the chimney proper. Weird 3d back and footing/bridging to first stance. Then definite down climb c1.5m to reach start of jug fest traverse out of the cave. I'd put this start at prob VS 4b. Wild for a Severe!
Andy152 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Lee Bower

HarryB - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Katherine Ross, Jamie

P1 was one of the scariest things I've led! Steep and it didn't help that a lot of the good holds were slimed with bird poo or filled with crumbling muddy stuff! Definitely wouldn't want to be leading this as a Severe leader! Definitely a cool adventure but I'm not sure it deserves Rockfax's 'Top 50' accolade.
Katherine Ross - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Jamie Roberts, Harry Bloxham

P2 very easy, slings are a must for protection.
zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Katherine Ross, Harry

Guy Chater - Lead - 29/May/12

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12

1 and 3. First pitch scary, think the high belay (with downclimb to traverse) is right. Lots of loose blocks, no way Severe. Fun though!
mes32 - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12 with Chris

Mike Hood - Lead - 22/May/12

Great adventure.
benjih2o - AltLd O/S - 14/May/12 with peter baily

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/12

ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Sera Roberts

demarcation86 - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Apr/12

Would have been far simpler done as 3 pitches. Good fun.
melonmike - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with liam brown

pryan300 - AltLd - 08/Apr/12 with T-Bone

Rhydian Evans - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with John

Jimboandrews. - Lead - 12/Mar/12

Did p1 with some back and footing in the middle but horrible sand/ boulders at the top. Probably went too far. Overall bad feeling not helped by idea of downclimbing to jug rail or when second pulled a rock from the wall showering the cave with mud. Lowered second and abseiled.
JHiley - Lead dnf - 11/Mar/12 with Fran

centurion05 - 2012

Polly4 - 2012

RosiePalmer - 2nd O/S - 13/Dec/11

Nexonen - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Jake

pembrokeshirecaver - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/11 with Edmund Morris

drysori - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Jesamine

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/11

Managed to snatch this beneath the tide's nose. Obscenely windy - waves were breaking into the cave by the time we'd finished. Best Severe I've done by a long way.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11 with J. Iles-Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/11

I led P1 and P3. Sara, P2. Good value for a Severe.
kleinej - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Zara

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Liam Byrne

brian watson - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with scott titt

Led P2. Jugfest.
Richard Alderton - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with Ellie

I led P1 and P3, Rich led P2.
EllieWoods - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with Rich

CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Mirithiar

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/11

Abbed off after pitch 1 as I was too freaked to lead (or second) the traverse. As Severe leader, and a shortie, this is NOT severe. The bridging on pitch 1 was pretty scarey as well! Deserves the stars though!
Babika - 2nd dnf - 14/Aug/11 with Charles Leek

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11

Absolutely horrible the first pitch was muddy and slimy, the hand rail of jugs wasnt incredible, the last pitch was really good, but should've climbed cracks instead and avoid the cave all together..
scorpia97 - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Ross Davidson, Caspian

Wow. Very entertaining trip! Bridged too deep into the corner on pitch 1 though, and ended up on alarming sand-embedded boulders, belaying on a ledge that was higher than the hand traverse on P2. Worth watching out for that...
jonny taylor - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Andy B

ablackett - AltLd - 26/Jul/11 with Jonny

Interesting route, although I'm not sure how safe the jenga tower of 'the cracks' is.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11 with adam booth

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/11

pipof747 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/11

Tom Fuller - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/11 with Stef Morris

simply... if you want an amazing adventure covering some breathtaking ground this climb is for you. started climbing at 8pm managed to top out as the lights went out ... simply stunning and full of surprises!
TM_Horton - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with will

Great Multi-pitch climb, massive jugs were you dont expect it and fun moves throught, on the last pitch there is a stuck cam (I think it should be called "sword in the stone")
Will Horton - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Tom Horton

finished up meridian. One of the best climbs I have ever done despite the easy grade
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Helen Powley

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/11

Led P2. Great route - abseil into cave first, then climb out.
prwalker - AltLd - 24/Apr/11 with Ali Hutton

EmilyElouise - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/11

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Rick Dunning - 2011

Chris linked P1 and 2. I led P3, the most adventurous severe i've ever done.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/10

Kirill - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10

Mis-judged the tide, got soaked, dried out in the cave, did the route, had sarnies & decided that was enough for the day so went for cream tea.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Paul Lucas

JWB 1st and 3rd pitch and i led the second pitch!a great route but i must say it felt very easy when your at hvs level climbing!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with john beardmore

I led pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 very interesting climbing but was glad to get out into the sunlight again.
lucasp - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with keith lmc

Superb. Me pitches 1 and 2. the 1st pitch felt hard for severe. Think I climbed too high for the 1st stance .......... but judging by the chalk I dont think I was the first.
JWB - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Jon Gill

Ketu - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Graeme H

Led P1
MD - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Bob, Paul H

excellent, led pitch 1 + half of pitch 2 to the treads at the end of the traverse on the lip of the cave.
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Rob

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/10

Led pitches 1 and 3
Leelogs - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with SCC

A brilliant route which follows some unlikely ground at the grade.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/10

Aerondt - 2nd O/S - Aug/10 with Gaz

muttley_109 - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Ollie Burrows

Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with B. Hughes

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Sarah Joyce

owiowz - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Siwan, Aerondt

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/10

Rose Williams - AltLd - 09/Jun/10 with James Kay

cliffy - AltLd rpt - 30/May/10 with Alan Turner

Led pitches 1 and 3.
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Ollie Dorrell

pissed off the odd seagull
Ed morris - Lead rpt - 13/May/10 with Meanmachine Meaney

Meanmachine Meaney - 2nd O/S - 13/May/10 with Ed morris

Brilliant - pitch 1 (which can be done from the bottom of the cave at no change to the grade) is really 3D style climbing up the back of the cave and the next two pitches are exposed juggy fun
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Lou

barni - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Liam fleming

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10

Nexonen - AltLd - 15/Apr/10 with Huw

cymjt - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09

belay bunny turned bad - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09 with loundsy

Brilliant! What an amazing route!!
Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Andy

Brilliant! Lead P1 and 3
Nexonen - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Ceri

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jul/09

"covers ground usually only found on harder climbs" ... yeah, like XS ... the first pitch up overhanging wet sand is bloody terrifying. Great route though. Collected some bonus seabird vomit too.
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with mu

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with Lee Bonner

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/08 with Trisha Murphy

Trisha Murphy - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/08 with d_meacher

Hidden - 2008

cliffy - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Andrew Combes

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07

tlmarjot - AltLd - Aug/07 with Chris Todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/07

david morse - AltLd - Aug/05 with rampant

Jason Gotel - Lead - Jul/05 with Pippa Lansdown

Howard J - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/04 with John Turner

LC - Lead O/S - May/03

Hidden - Lead - 1998

five - Lead O/S - Aug/96 with JR

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, ruthieie, Larey, Graham at Aston, Steveb27, sammyblack, Griff, Matthew Edwards, Luke Jones, johnpr, simonwaters5, misskebab, Richard Morgan, dcomeau

Total votes cast 95
hard HS9 of 46
HS3 of 46
easy HS22 of 46
hard S8 of 46
S3 of 46
easy S1 of 46
hard HVD0 of 46
HVD0 of 46
easy HVD0 of 46
3 Stars32 of 49
2 Stars12 of 49
1 Star1 of 49
0 Stars2 of 49
Bag of .....2 of 49
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP