40m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant and highly entertaining route that gets you into some spectacular situations. It is probably best to do it in the three short pitches to avoid rope drag and the route is a bit harder when wet (which it often is). Start by scrambling through the upper through-cave dropping down and heading left to the very back of the chimney.
1) 12m. Climb the chimney mainly on the left wall, to a stance.
2) 15m. Traverse out and left along a massive juggy hand-rail, to the mouth of the cave. Pull up then step left to a triangular niche.
3) 10m. Move right out of the niche and climb a crack to a short corner and the top. This is the top of The Cracks. © Rockfax

FA. R.Crewe 25.3.78 25/Mar/1978

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50.

gjd 27/Sep AltLd O/S

led p1,p3

with Sam Burns
FlavioL1989 29/Aug AltLd O/S
rajeshwarbisht 29/Aug AltLd O/S
with Flavio
Stanners 15/Aug Lead O/S

Brilliant little adventure. The Jug rail didn't disappoint!

with Andy G
Hidden ?/Aug AltLd
Keith Swainson 25/Jul AltLd O/S
with James Turner, Georgie
Georgie25 25/Jul AltLd
Katie Proctor 22/Jul AltLd dog

Lead pitch 1 and 3.

GainzULMC 22/Jul AltLd

P1 - KP - Easily the hardest pitch P2 - Me - Those rails though. P3 - KP - Pleasant. The belay spot has great sea views.

Dervey 08/Jun AltLd O/S
with Liam
andy_pemberton 26/May Lead

Much easier this time as moved round earlier to a lower stance at the end of the first pitch -- thus avoiding sand-boulder horror.

with Dave Marshall
Anna Maykova 25/May AltLd

Lead P 1 and 3. Great fun!

with Ian
bobstones 24/May Lead O/S

Where to begin on this one......... The first pitch is nowhere near severe as most other people have said. It's awkward 3D climbing, quite bold and hard to decipher where to go. Second starts with a down climb then on to the easy traverse finished with a tricky step around the corner and small traverse into the niche. Third start with a bold(ish) step right then a romp to the top. Fantastic route, loads of fun and great positions but be prepared!!

chancer 24/May AltLd O/S

A classic adventure that includes all types.

with Jason Wood
M_Robinson 01/May Lead O/S
SEDaniels 01/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr Solo O/S
Ian1987 05/Apr AltLd O/S
markalmack 05/Apr AltLd O/S

Only did first 2 pitches as there were choppers holding up the show on the cracks.

with ian
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
jbb 28/Sep/14 2nd
jon22 24/Sep/14 Lead
spidermonkey09 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led traverse second pitch. Awesome holds and big threads! Really cool route but probably HS for the first pitch.

clairemathews 30/Aug/14 AltLd

3rd pitch

clairemathews 30/Aug/14 AltLd
Martin Bagshaw 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

A nice mini expedition. Didn't quite get the clue on what gear it might require, but I made do.

James_L88 11/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant effort by Kat to lead the difficult P1 (much harder than severe!). I led the enjoyable jug traverse of P2. Kat finished by leading P3.

with Kat Day
Steven Carter 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
cs8sz 27/Jul/14 -

This is very scary first pitch it isn't an S more like a HVS, don't even think about committing down there unless you can comfortably climb the grade, we believe there has been a rock fall making it much harder. It is amazing climb, pitch 2 and 3 are very good an more like a S, however very exposed. Awesome!

adam clarke 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P2. P1 involved bridging onto and topping out onto scary pile of sand/mud. High belay felt dangerous (VERY loose blocks). Dropped down to start of P2 traverse to much better stance. P2 and P3 well protected and pleasant. A real adventure!

with Adam Lynch
NickyC 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Zain Karim
erica 11/Jul/14 2nd
with John
John Brayshaw 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Erica
tgeh 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with imogene
ifletcher 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with tgeh
CameronH 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Accidentally led first half of Karma Waters instead of P1! ALso led P3

with Phil Glass
Hidden 13/Jun/14 AltLd RP
Hidden 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
HazelMacLean 13/Jun/14 AltLd β

Sam backed off the first pitch, so I lead it with half the gear in. Then lead the 3rd pitch which was pleasant. First pitch was scary, Loose rock and more like VS.

Lizzie B 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Charlie
chappers909 05/Jun/14 2nd
Dan Geh 04/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Paddy, Will
Stefan_Morris 27/May/14 AltLd
with Hannah Thompson
hannahmmt 27/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Stefan
007 25/May/14 -

S in the rockfax, VS in the new CC book, VS crumbling slimey, friable bag of shite with loads of seriously big loose boulders right above you for the first pitch. Never found out about the other 2 pitches as we backed off.

andy_pemberton 10/Apr/14 Lead

P1 is never Severe! Do you go all the way to the top of the chimney (sand encased boulders) or nip off around the left edge 3m earlier?? P2 has the biggest holds I have ever seen!

with Richard Woods
Ella7 ??/2014 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd. The first pitch was slimy, damp, looked like the sandy mud the rocks were lodged in was about to collapse and a really hard pitch for Severe, VS? It is a cool location though, 2nd has amazing threads and 3rd is good, both more like Severe

mike mo ??/2014 -
gurumed 30/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches.

with John
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Solo
Hidden 20/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 25/Aug/13 -
Rob84 21/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Rob Adie
Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/13 Lead O/S
LiamAD 29/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JonathanJones 29/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Made a video but very slow climbing

with Scott, Liam
Matt1234 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Dr Toph 26/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Cool wee adventure: caving, bird life, and a surprise offwidth when I strayed onto the E1 to finish! Great exposure over the cave.

Elsier 17/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Adrian
NB Pixel 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Now VS 4a. Pretty cool- there were birds high above us but didn't seem bothered

with David Barlow
guy757 05/Jun/13 -
nigel pearson 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Wild adventure. Bit of a sandbag as first pitch is awkward and it took me a while to find the correct line

with Yoko
adie84 ??/2013 -
Alex179 20/Oct/12 2nd
Rowan Mitchell 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with Andre Steele
Dizz 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Now VS 4a ... an adventure :-)

with george
Binder 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

I led p2 - pretty cool traverse!

with Liz F
BenedictIEP 25/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Was told to go through the blowhole on the right hand wall, was unconvinced and couldn't commit t0o any route.

with Brian Moseley
Andy152 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

It was my "suggestion". I led the first pitch by threading the needle through the blowhole on the right looking in, at about shoulder height from the bottom of the cave. It seemed like the logical thing to do to match the route name. Plus the steps on the left wall were wet and slimy. Post yourself up the left hand tube. Dark but easy. This leads to the bower above with a couple of threads and a pocket that takes a large Friend. Hand traverse the leaning wall on jugs to join the guidebook described start at the start of the chimney proper. Weird 3d back and footing/bridging to first stance. Then definite down climb c1.5m to reach start of jug fest traverse out of the cave. I'd put this start at prob VS 4b. Wild for a Severe!

with Lee Bower
HarryB 11/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Katherine Ross 11/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

P1 was one of the scariest things I've led! Steep and it didn't help that a lot of the good holds were slimed with bird poo or filled with crumbling muddy stuff! Definitely wouldn't want to be leading this as a Severe leader! Definitely a cool adventure but I'm not sure it deserves Rockfax's 'Top 50' accolade.

zcsharp 11/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

P2 very easy, slings are a must for protection.

Guy Chater 29/May/12 Lead
chrisallan 28/May/12 AltLd O/S
mes32 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

1 and 3. First pitch scary, think the high belay (with downclimb to traverse) is right. Lots of loose blocks, no way Severe. Fun though!

with Chris
Mike Hood 22/May/12 Lead
benjih2o 14/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great adventure.

with peter baily
Hidden 13/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 13/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
demarcation86 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 08/Apr/12 AltLd
melonmike 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Would have been far simpler done as 3 pitches. Good fun.

with liam brown
pryan300 08/Apr/12 AltLd
with T-Bone
Rhydian Evans 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Lenny 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with John
Jimboandrews. 12/Mar/12 Lead
JHiley 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Did p1 with some back and footing in the middle but horrible sand/ boulders at the top. Probably went too far. Overall bad feeling not helped by idea of downclimbing to jug rail or when second pulled a rock from the wall showering the cave with mud. Lowered second and abseiled.

with Fran
centurion05 ??/2012 -
Polly4 ??/2012 -
RosiePalmer 13/Dec/11 2nd O/S
Nexonen 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Jake
pembrokeshirecaver 21/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
drysori 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Alex Winter 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Managed to snatch this beneath the tide's nose. Obscenely windy - waves were breaking into the cave by the time we'd finished. Best Severe I've done by a long way.

Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
kleinej 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1 and P3. Sara, P2. Good value for a Severe.

with Zara
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Liam Byrne
brian watson 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with scott titt
Richard Alderton 29/Aug/11 AltLd

Led P2. Jugfest.

with Ellie
EllieWoods 29/Aug/11 AltLd

I led P1 and P3, Rich led P2.

with Rich
CRiddiford 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S


Hidden 22/Aug/11 2nd
Babika 14/Aug/11 2nd dnf

Abbed off after pitch 1 as I was too freaked to lead (or second) the traverse. As Severe leader, and a shortie, this is NOT severe. The bridging on pitch 1 was pretty scarey as well! Deserves the stars though!

with Charles Leek
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
scorpia97 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Absolutely horrible the first pitch was muddy and slimy, the hand rail of jugs wasnt incredible, the last pitch was really good, but should've climbed cracks instead and avoid the cave all together..

jonny taylor 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Wow. Very entertaining trip! Bridged too deep into the corner on pitch 1 though, and ended up on alarming sand-embedded boulders, belaying on a ledge that was higher than the hand traverse on P2. Worth watching out for that...

with Andy B
ablackett 26/Jul/11 AltLd
with Jonny
Adam Booth 22/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Interesting route, although I'm not sure how safe the jenga tower of 'the cracks' is.

edmitchell 22/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/11 AltLd
pipof747 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Tom Fuller 22/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Stefan_Morris 22/Jun/11 Lead
TM_Horton 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

simply... if you want an amazing adventure covering some breathtaking ground this climb is for you. started climbing at 8pm managed to top out as the lights went out ... simply stunning and full of surprises!

with will
Will Horton 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Great Multi-pitch climb, massive jugs were you dont expect it and fun moves throught, on the last pitch there is a stuck cam (I think it should be called "sword in the stone")

with Tom Horton
Ewan Russell 01/May/11 Lead O/S

finished up meridian. One of the best climbs I have ever done despite the easy grade

with Helen Powley
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
prwalker 24/Apr/11 AltLd

Led P2. Great route - abseil into cave first, then climb out.

with Ali Hutton
EmilyElouise 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rick Dunning ??/2011 -
Dan Lane 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Chris linked P1 and 2. I led P3, the most adventurous severe i've ever done.

Kirill 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
KeithW 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Mis-judged the tide, got soaked, dried out in the cave, did the route, had sarnies & decided that was enough for the day so went for cream tea.

with Paul Lucas
jon_gill1 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

JWB 1st and 3rd pitch and i led the second pitch!a great route but i must say it felt very easy when your at hvs level climbing!

lucasp 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 very interesting climbing but was glad to get out into the sunlight again.

with keith lmc
JWB 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Superb. Me pitches 1 and 2. the 1st pitch felt hard for severe. Think I climbed too high for the 1st stance .......... but judging by the chalk I dont think I was the first.

Ketu 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
MD 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Bob, Paul H
Graeme Hammond 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

excellent, led pitch 1 + half of pitch 2 to the treads at the end of the traverse on the lip of the cave.

with Rob
hazeysunshine 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Pay Attention 28/Aug/10 AltLd
with MD
Hidden 14/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3

with SCC
Andrew Barker 13/Aug/10 Solo O/S

A brilliant route which follows some unlikely ground at the grade.

Aerondt ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Gaz
muttley_109 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with B. Hughes
irish paul 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
owiowz 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S
matt.woodfield 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Rose Williams 09/Jun/10 AltLd
cliffy 30/May/10 AltLd rpt
Julian Prieto 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3.

with Ollie Dorrell
Ed morris 13/May/10 Lead rpt

pissed off the odd seagull

Meanmachine Meaney 13/May/10 2nd O/S
Rob84 03/May/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant - pitch 1 (which can be done from the bottom of the cave at no change to the grade) is really 3D style climbing up the back of the cave and the next two pitches are exposed juggy fun

with Lou
barni 21/Apr/10 AltLd O/S


Sophie Nunn 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Nexonen 15/Apr/10 AltLd
with Huw
cymjt ??/2010 -
Hidden 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Ceridwen 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! What an amazing route!!

with Andy
Nexonen 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! Lead P1 and 3

with Ceri
Hidden 26/Jul/09 2nd
Stone Muppet 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

"covers ground usually only found on harder climbs" ... yeah, like XS ... the first pitch up overhanging wet sand is bloody terrifying. Great route though. Collected some bonus seabird vomit too.

with mu
The Bad Cough 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
d_meacher 08/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Trisha Murphy 08/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
cliffy 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Combes
Hidden 26/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Chris Todd
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
david morse ?/Aug/05 AltLd
with rampant
Jason Gotel ?/Jul/05 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
Howard J 26/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with John Turner
LC ?/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
five ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with JR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jing, Dan Svensson, Ciderslider, ruthieie, Larey, Graham at Aston, Steveb27, sammyblack, Griff, Hidden, Matthew Edwards, Hidden, Luke Jones, Hidden, johnpr, simonwaters5, Hidden, misskebab, Hidden, Richard Morgan, Hidden, dcomeau
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set