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Threadneedle Street** S

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[will my bro abbing into mother careys :), 1 kb]40m, 3 pitches. A brilliant and highly entertaining route that gets you into some spectacular situations. It is probably best to do it in the three short pitches to avoid rope drag and the route is a bit harder when wet (which it often is). Start by scrambling through the upper through-cave dropping down and heading left to the very back of the chimney. Photo opposite. 1) 12m. Climb the chimney mainly on the left wall, to a stance. 2) 15m. Traverse out and left along a massive juggy hand-rail, to the mouth of the cave. Pull up then step left to a triangular niche. 3) 10m. Move right out of the niche and climb a crack to a short corner and the top. This is the top of The Cracks. © ROCKFAX
FA. R.Crewe 25.3.78 25/Mar/1978

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50.

Photo: will my bro abbing into mother careys :) © TM_Horton
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 133 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

P1 is never Severe! Do you go all the way to the top of the chimney (sand encased boulders) or nip off around the left edge 3m earlier?? P2 has the biggest holds I have ever seen!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 10/Apr/14 with Richard Woods

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches.
gurumed - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/13 with John

Hidden - Solo - 23/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/13

Hidden - 25/Aug/13

Rob84 - 2nd rpt - 21/Aug/13 with Rob Adie

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/13

LiamAD - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/13 with Jonathan Jones, Scott Kent

Made a video but very slow climbing
JonathanJones - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/13 with Scott, Liam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13

Cool wee adventure: caving, bird life, and a surprise offwidth when I strayed onto the E1 to finish! Great exposure over the cave.
Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/13

Elsier - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Adrian

Now VS 4a. Pretty cool- there were birds high above us but didn't seem bothered
NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with David Barlow

guy757 - 05/Jun/13

Wild adventure. Bit of a sandbag as first pitch is awkward and it took me a while to find the correct line
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Yoko

RosiePalmer - 2nd O/S - 2013

adie84 - 2013

Alex179 - 2nd - 20/Oct/12

Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Andre Steele

Now VS 4a ... an adventure :-)
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with george

I led p2 - pretty cool traverse!
Binder - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Liz F

Was told to go through the blowhole on the right hand wall, was unconvinced and couldn't commit t0o any route.
BenedictIEP - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/12 with Brian Moseley

It was my "suggestion". I led the first pitch by threading the needle through the blowhole on the right looking in, at about shoulder height from the bottom of the cave. It seemed like the logical thing to do to match the route name. Plus the steps on the left wall were wet and slimy. Post yourself up the left hand tube. Dark but easy. This leads to the bower above with a couple of threads and a pocket that takes a large Friend. Hand traverse the leaning wall on jugs to join the guidebook described start at the start of the chimney proper. Weird 3d back and footing/bridging to first stance. Then definite down climb c1.5m to reach start of jug fest traverse out of the cave. I'd put this start at prob VS 4b. Wild for a Severe!
Andy152 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Lee Bower

HarryB - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Katherine Ross, Jamie

P1 was one of the scariest things I've led! Steep and it didn't help that a lot of the good holds were slimed with bird poo or filled with crumbling muddy stuff! Definitely wouldn't want to be leading this as a Severe leader! Definitely a cool adventure but I'm not sure it deserves Rockfax's 'Top 50' accolade.
Katherine Ross - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Jamie Roberts, Harry Bloxham

P2 very easy, slings are a must for protection.
zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Katherine Ross, Harry

Guy Chater - Lead - 29/May/12

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12

1 and 3. First pitch scary, think the high belay (with downclimb to traverse) is right. Lots of loose blocks, no way Severe. Fun though!
mes32 - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12 with Chris

Mike Hood - Lead - 22/May/12

Great adventure.
benjih2o - AltLd O/S - 14/May/12 with peter baily

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/12

ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Sera Roberts

demarcation86 - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Apr/12

Would have been far simpler done as 3 pitches. Good fun.
melonmike - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with liam brown

pryan300 - AltLd - 08/Apr/12 with T-Bone

Rhydian Evans - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with John

Did p1 with some back and footing in the middle but horrible sand/ boulders at the top. Probably went too far. Overall bad feeling not helped by idea of downclimbing to jug rail or when second pulled a rock from the wall showering the cave with mud. Lowered second and abseiled.
JHiley - Lead dnf - 11/Mar/12

centurion05 - 2012

Polly4 - 2012

Nexonen - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Jake

pembrokeshirecaver - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/11 with Edmund Morris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/11

Managed to snatch this beneath the tide's nose. Obscenely windy - waves were breaking into the cave by the time we'd finished. Best Severe I've done by a long way.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11 with J. Iles-Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/11

I led P1 and P3. Sara, P2. Good value for a Severe.
kleinej - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Zara

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Liam Byrne

brian watson - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with scott titt

Led P2. Jugfest.
Richard Alderton - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with Ellie

I led P1 and P3, Rich led P2.
EllieWoods - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with Rich

p1,2,3
CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Mirithiar

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/11

Abbed off after pitch 1 as I was too freaked to lead (or second) the traverse. As Severe leader, and a shortie, this is NOT severe. The bridging on pitch 1 was pretty scarey as well! Deserves the stars though!
Babika - 2nd dnf - 14/Aug/11 with Charles Leek

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11

Absolutely horrible the first pitch was muddy and slimy, the hand rail of jugs wasnt incredible, the last pitch was really good, but should've climbed cracks instead and avoid the cave all together..
scorpia97 - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Ross Davidson, Caspian

Wow. Very entertaining trip! Bridged too deep into the corner on pitch 1 though, and ended up on alarming sand-embedded boulders, belaying on a ledge that was higher than the hand traverse on P2. Worth watching out for that...
jonny taylor - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Andy B

ablackett - AltLd - 26/Jul/11 with Jonny

Interesting route, although I'm not sure how safe the jenga tower of 'the cracks' is.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11 with adam booth

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/11

pipof747 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/11

Tom Fuller - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/11 with Stef Morris

simply... if you want an amazing adventure covering some breathtaking ground this climb is for you. started climbing at 8pm managed to top out as the lights went out ... simply stunning and full of surprises!
TM_Horton - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with will

Great Multi-pitch climb, massive jugs were you dont expect it and fun moves throught, on the last pitch there is a stuck cam (I think it should be called "sword in the stone")
Will Horton - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Tom Horton

finished up meridian. One of the best climbs I have ever done despite the easy grade
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Helen Powley

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/11

EmilyElouise - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/11

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Led all Pitches.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Rick Dunning - 2011

Chris linked P1 and 2. I led P3, the most adventurous severe i've ever done.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/10

Kirill - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Paul Bolton

Led pitches 1 and 3
Ant Man Bee - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Kirill Spiridonov

Mis-judged the tide, got soaked, dried out in the cave, did the route, had sarnies & decided that was enough for the day so went for cream tea.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Paul Lucas

JWB 1st and 3rd pitch and i led the second pitch!a great route but i must say it felt very easy when your at hvs level climbing!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with john beardmore

I led pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 very interesting climbing but was glad to get out into the sunlight again.
lucasp - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with keith lmc

Superb. Me pitches 1 and 2. the 1st pitch felt hard for severe. Think I climbed too high for the 1st stance .......... but judging by the chalk I dont think I was the first.
JWB - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Jon Gill

Ketu - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Graeme H

Led P1
MD - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Bob, Paul H

excellent, led pitch 1 + half of pitch 2 to the treads at the end of the traverse on the lip of the cave.
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Rob

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/10

Led pitches 1 and 3
Leelogs - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with SCC

A brilliant route which follows some unlikely ground at the grade.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/10

Aerondt - 2nd O/S - Aug/10 with Gaz

muttley_109 - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Ollie Burrows

Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with B. Hughes

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Sarah Joyce

Owain Edwards - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Siwan, Aerondt

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/10

Rose Williams - AltLd - 09/Jun/10 with James Kay

cliffy - AltLd rpt - 30/May/10 with Alan Turner

Led pitches 1 and 3.
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Ollie Dorrell

pissed off the odd seagull
Ed morris - Lead rpt - 13/May/10 with Meanmachine Meaney

Meanmachine Meaney - 2nd O/S - 13/May/10 with Ed morris

Brilliant - pitch 1 (which can be done from the bottom of the cave at no change to the grade) is really 3D style climbing up the back of the cave and the next two pitches are exposed juggy fun
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Lou

middle
barni - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Liam fleming

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10

Nexonen - AltLd - 15/Apr/10 with Huw

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09

belay bunny turned bad - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09 with loundsy

Brilliant! What an amazing route!!
Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Andy

Brilliant! Lead P1 and 3
Nexonen - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Ceri

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jul/09

"covers ground usually only found on harder climbs" ... yeah, like XS ... the first pitch up overhanging wet sand is bloody terrifying. Great route though. Collected some bonus seabird vomit too.
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with mu

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with Lee Bonner

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/08 with Trisha Murphy

Trisha Murphy - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/08 with d_meacher

Hidden - 2008

cliffy - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Andrew Combes

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07

tlmarjot - AltLd - Aug/07 with Chris Todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/07

david morse - AltLd - Aug/05 with rampant

Jason Gotel - Lead - Jul/05 with Pippa Lansdown

Howard J - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/04 with John Turner

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/03

Hidden - Lead - 1998

five - Lead O/S - Aug/96 with JR

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, sammyblack, Griff, Hidden, Matthew Edwards, Hidden, Luke Jones, Hidden, johnpr, simonwaters5, Hidden, misskebab, Hidden, Richard Morgan, Hidden, dcomeau

Voting
Total votes cast 68
hard HS0 of 33
HS1 of 33
easy HS20 of 33
hard S8 of 33
S3 of 33
easy S1 of 33
hard HVD0 of 33
HVD0 of 33
easy HVD0 of 33
3 Stars22 of 35
2 Stars10 of 35
1 Star1 of 35
0 Stars1 of 35
Bag of .....1 of 35
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 133 (2.3%)
Lead25 of 133 (18.8%)
Followed18 of 133 (13.5%)
Alt Leads79 of 133 (59.4%)
Unknown8 of 133 (6.0%)

'Climbed'32 of 133 (24.1%)
clean O/S94 of 133 (70.7%)
clean rpt4 of 133 (3.0%)
dnf3 of 133 (2.3%)