This is very scary first pitch it isn't an S more like a HVS, don't even think about committing down there unless you can comfortably climb the grade, we believe there has been a rock fall making it much harder. It is amazing climb, pitch 2 and 3 are very good an more like a S, however very exposed. Awesome!cs8sz - 27/Jul/14
Led P1 and P2. P1 involved bridging onto and topping out onto scary pile of sand/mud. High belay felt dangerous (VERY loose blocks). Dropped down to start of P2 traverse to much better stance. P2 and P3 well protected and pleasant. A real adventure!
adam clarke - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Adam Lynch
NickyC - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Zain Karim
erica - 2nd - 11/Jul/14 with John
John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/14 with Erica
tgeh - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with imogene
ifletcher - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with tgeh
Accidentally led first half of Karma Waters instead of P1! ALso led P3
CameronH - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Phil Glass
Sam Hockley - AltLd RP - 13/Jun/14 with Hazel MacLean
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/14
Sam backed off the first pitch, so I lead it with half the gear in. Then lead the 3rd pitch which was pleasant. First pitch was scary, Loose rock and more like VS.
HazelMacLean - AltLd β - 13/Jun/14 with Sam Hockley
Lizzie B - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Charlie
chappers909 - 2nd - 05/Jun/14 with Patrick Hill, Dan Geh
Dan Geh - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/14 with Paddy, Will
Stefan_Morris - AltLd - 27/May/14 with Hannah Thompson
hannahmmt - AltLd O/S - 27/May/14 with Stefan
S in the rockfax, VS in the new CC book, VS crumbling slimey, friable bag of shite with loads of seriously big loose boulders right above you for the first pitch. Never found out about the other 2 pitches as we backed off.
007 - 25/May/14
P1 is never Severe! Do you go all the way to the top of the chimney (sand encased boulders) or nip off around the left edge 3m earlier?? P2 has the biggest holds I have ever seen!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 10/Apr/14 with Richard Woods
mike mo - 2014
Lead 1st and 3rd pitches.
gurumed - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/13 with John
Hidden - Solo - 23/Sep/13
Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/13
Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/13
Hidden - 25/Aug/13
Rob84 - 2nd rpt - 21/Aug/13 with Rob Adie
Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/13
LiamAD - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/13 with Jonathan Jones, Scott Kent
Made a video but very slow climbing
JonathanJones - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/13 with Scott, Liam
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13
Cool wee adventure: caving, bird life, and a surprise offwidth when I strayed onto the E1 to finish! Great exposure over the cave.
Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/13
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Adrian
Now VS 4a. Pretty cool- there were birds high above us but didn't seem bothered
NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with David Barlow
guy757 - 05/Jun/13
Wild adventure. Bit of a sandbag as first pitch is awkward and it took me a while to find the correct line
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Yoko
adie84 - 2013
Alex179 - 2nd - 20/Oct/12
Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Andre Steele
Now VS 4a ... an adventure :-)
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with george
I led p2 - pretty cool traverse!
Binder - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Liz F
Was told to go through the blowhole on the right hand wall, was unconvinced and couldn't commit t0o any route.
BenedictIEP - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/12 with Brian Moseley
It was my "suggestion". I led the first pitch by threading the needle through the blowhole on the right looking in, at about shoulder height from the bottom of the cave. It seemed like the logical thing to do to match the route name. Plus the steps on the left wall were wet and slimy. Post yourself up the left hand tube. Dark but easy. This leads to the bower above with a couple of threads and a pocket that takes a large Friend. Hand traverse the leaning wall on jugs to join the guidebook described start at the start of the chimney proper. Weird 3d back and footing/bridging to first stance. Then definite down climb c1.5m to reach start of jug fest traverse out of the cave. I'd put this start at prob VS 4b. Wild for a Severe!
Andy152 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Lee Bower
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Katherine Ross, Jamie
P1 was one of the scariest things I've led! Steep and it didn't help that a lot of the good holds were slimed with bird poo or filled with crumbling muddy stuff! Definitely wouldn't want to be leading this as a Severe leader! Definitely a cool adventure but I'm not sure it deserves Rockfax's 'Top 50' accolade.
Katherine Ross - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Jamie Roberts, Harry Bloxham
P2 very easy, slings are a must for protection.
zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Katherine Ross, Harry
Guy Chater - Lead - 29/May/12
chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12
1 and 3. First pitch scary, think the high belay (with downclimb to traverse) is right. Lots of loose blocks, no way Severe. Fun though!
mes32 - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12 with Chris
Mike Hood - Lead - 22/May/12
benjih2o - AltLd O/S - 14/May/12 with peter baily
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/12
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Sera Roberts
demarcation86 - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Paul
Hidden - AltLd - 08/Apr/12
Would have been far simpler done as 3 pitches. Good fun.
melonmike - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with liam brown
pryan300 - AltLd - 08/Apr/12 with T-Bone
Rhydian Evans - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12
Lenny - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with John
Did p1 with some back and footing in the middle but horrible sand/ boulders at the top. Probably went too far. Overall bad feeling not helped by idea of downclimbing to jug rail or when second pulled a rock from the wall showering the cave with mud. Lowered second and abseiled.
JHiley - Lead dnf - 11/Mar/12
centurion05 - 2012
Polly4 - 2012
RosiePalmer - 2nd O/S - 13/Dec/11
Nexonen - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Jake
pembrokeshirecaver - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/11 with Edmund Morris
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/11
Managed to snatch this beneath the tide's nose. Obscenely windy - waves were breaking into the cave by the time we'd finished. Best Severe I've done by a long way.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11 with J. Iles-Smith
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/11
I led P1 and P3. Sara, P2. Good value for a Severe.
kleinej - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Zara
Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Liam Byrne
brian watson - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with scott titt
Led P2. Jugfest.
Richard Alderton - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with Ellie
I led P1 and P3, Rich led P2.
EllieWoods - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with Rich
CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Mirithiar
Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/11
Abbed off after pitch 1 as I was too freaked to lead (or second) the traverse. As Severe leader, and a shortie, this is NOT severe. The bridging on pitch 1 was pretty scarey as well! Deserves the stars though!
Babika - 2nd dnf - 14/Aug/11 with Charles Leek
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11
Absolutely horrible the first pitch was muddy and slimy, the hand rail of jugs wasnt incredible, the last pitch was really good, but should've climbed cracks instead and avoid the cave all together..
scorpia97 - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Ross Davidson, Caspian
Wow. Very entertaining trip! Bridged too deep into the corner on pitch 1 though, and ended up on alarming sand-embedded boulders, belaying on a ledge that was higher than the hand traverse on P2. Worth watching out for that...
jonny taylor - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Andy B
ablackett - AltLd - 26/Jul/11 with Jonny
Interesting route, although I'm not sure how safe the jenga tower of 'the cracks' is.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11
edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11 with adam booth
Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/11
pipof747 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/11
Tom Fuller - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/11 with Stef Morris
simply... if you want an amazing adventure covering some breathtaking ground this climb is for you. started climbing at 8pm managed to top out as the lights went out ... simply stunning and full of surprises!
TM_Horton - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with will
Great Multi-pitch climb, massive jugs were you dont expect it and fun moves throught, on the last pitch there is a stuck cam (I think it should be called "sword in the stone")
Will Horton - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Tom Horton
finished up meridian. One of the best climbs I have ever done despite the easy grade
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Helen Powley
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/11
EmilyElouise - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/11
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11
Led all Pitches.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 2011
PAJames - 2011
Rick Dunning - 2011
Chris linked P1 and 2. I led P3, the most adventurous severe i've ever done.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/10
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Paul Bolton
Led pitches 1 and 3
Ant Man Bee - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Kirill Spiridonov
Mis-judged the tide, got soaked, dried out in the cave, did the route, had sarnies & decided that was enough for the day so went for cream tea.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Paul Lucas
JWB 1st and 3rd pitch and i led the second pitch!a great route but i must say it felt very easy when your at hvs level climbing!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with john beardmore
I led pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 very interesting climbing but was glad to get out into the sunlight again.
lucasp - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with keith lmc
Superb. Me pitches 1 and 2. the 1st pitch felt hard for severe. Think I climbed too high for the 1st stance .......... but judging by the chalk I dont think I was the first.
JWB - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Jon Gill
Ketu - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Graeme H
MD - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Bob, Paul H
excellent, led pitch 1 + half of pitch 2 to the treads at the end of the traverse on the lip of the cave.
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Rob
hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Dave
Hidden - AltLd - 14/Aug/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/10
Led pitches 1 and 3
Leelogs - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with SCC
A brilliant route which follows some unlikely ground at the grade.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/10
Aerondt - 2nd O/S - Aug/10 with Gaz
muttley_109 - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Ollie Burrows
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with B. Hughes
irish paul - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Sarah Joyce
owiowz - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Siwan, Aerondt
matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/10
Rose Williams - AltLd - 09/Jun/10 with James Kay
cliffy - AltLd rpt - 30/May/10 with Alan Turner
Led pitches 1 and 3.
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Ollie Dorrell
pissed off the odd seagull
Ed morris - Lead rpt - 13/May/10 with Meanmachine Meaney
Meanmachine Meaney - 2nd O/S - 13/May/10 with Ed morris
Brilliant - pitch 1 (which can be done from the bottom of the cave at no change to the grade) is really 3D style climbing up the back of the cave and the next two pitches are exposed juggy fun
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Lou
barni - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Liam fleming
Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10
Nexonen - AltLd - 15/Apr/10 with Huw
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09
belay bunny turned bad - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09 with loundsy
Brilliant! What an amazing route!!
Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Andy
Brilliant! Lead P1 and 3
Nexonen - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Ceri
Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jul/09
"covers ground usually only found on harder climbs" ... yeah, like XS ... the first pitch up overhanging wet sand is bloody terrifying. Great route though. Collected some bonus seabird vomit too.
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with mu
The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with Lee Bonner
d_meacher - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/08 with Trisha Murphy
Trisha Murphy - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/08 with d_meacher
Hidden - 2008
cliffy - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Andrew Combes
Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07
tlmarjot - AltLd - Aug/07 with Chris Todd
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/07
david morse - AltLd - Aug/05 with rampant
Jason Gotel - Lead - Jul/05 with Pippa Lansdown
Howard J - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/04 with John Turner
Hidden - Lead O/S - May/03
Hidden - Lead - 1998
five - Lead O/S - Aug/96 with JR