Rockfax Description
A superb and popular route. Start beneath a left-facing groove in the middle of the south face of the buttress. Climb over a small roof into the groove and follow this to the top of the big pedestal (possible belay if the sea is threatening). Climb up and left past a deep crack to gain a rising crackline. Follow this and at its end climb direct to the top.
Direct Finish, E3 5c. Direct from half way up the crackline. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 4.76 Apr/1976

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

DubyaJamesDubya 10/Oct Lead O/S

Led as one pitch. Very nice.

with Joe Harris
cdpuk 25/Sep Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 29/Aug Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 29/Aug 2nd dog
with Flavio
amccann 17/Aug Lead O/S
harry_lewis 17/Aug 2nd O/S
benkelsey 17/Aug Lead O/S
with Shaun Humphreys
anguskille 10/Aug 2nd β
with Duncan Robinson
Laurence Everitt 07/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug 2nd
cem 31/Jul 2nd rpt
with Deniz Sumengen
phardman 22/Jul TR rpt
with Teresa
Hidden 21/Jul 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul Lead O/S
Dan724 23/Jun Lead O/S
with Dan Ely
M_Robinson 16/Jun Lead O/S
Sardien 16/Jun 2nd O/S

Beautiful climbing all the way, there even is a mono on it

james1978 11/Jun Lead O/S
with pam
Ian MK 26/May Lead dog

A little ambitious for me. Left arm pumped out by about 2/3rds up and had to rest :(

with Anna
Anna Maykova 26/May 2nd
with Ian
Cheese Monkey 25/May Lead O/S

So good! Best route of the year so far

with Ric E
dan gibson 21/May Lead rpt
with Eszter
Andy Peak 1 12/May Lead O/S

Upper belay to start the sea was massive

pearson9596 04/May 2nd O/S
ian d f 04/May Lead O/S
billb ?/May Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr Lead O/S
Adam24B 14/Apr Lead O/S

A step up from any of the other E2s I've done so far but such a fantastic climb

Graeme Hammond 08/Apr Lead rpt
with Chris Hindley
drysori 04/Apr 2nd
Graeme Hammond 04/Apr 2nd O/S
JCAshman ?/Apr Lead
Hidden ?/Apr -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Ian craigie ??/2015 Lead
with Karen Mackintyre, Niels Ernst williams
adie84 ??/2015 -
gurumed 29/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with gjd
gjd 29/Sep/14 Lead dog

Fell stepping across to the right hand crack.

with Gurumed
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tim_mcd 16/Aug/14 2nd dog
with David B
Duncan Campbell 16/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Very good and pretty tricky.

with GuyVG
GuyVG 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

brilliant face climbing, the 5b just keeps on coming

mynyddresident 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

very cool open climbing

with KP
leon 06/Aug/14 2nd dog

disappointed to have a rest on this to work out the move. from above the roof to the top felt very sustained.

Hidden 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
skippington 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
guy757 14/Jul/14 -
Mattoo 01/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Patrick Hill, Olly
oliver.ghill91 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead dnf
1poundSOCKS 23/Jun/14 2nd β

Felt very sustained on a very hot day. Comfy belay though.

adam 24 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S

From the pedestal belay, didn't go all the way down b/c of the sea. Excellent face climbing

with Paul Clarkson
alastairbegley 14/Jun/14 Lead

Gutted, ran out of stamina really close to the top

Slick 14/Jun/14 2nd
Ross.Cooper 10/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Patrick Hill 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 10/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Paddy, Ross
mossrug 09/Jun/14 -
with tony penning
Hidden 27/May/14 Lead
oddtoast 27/May/14 2nd dog

Hard and fun, too knackered to do it justice.

with Gav
Ramon Marin 26/May/14 Lead O/S

I felt this was quite hard for the grade.

john lynch 19/May/14 AltLd O/S

A stunning and sustained route, led 1st pitch. An added bonus to an already amazing introduction to Pembroke.

with Lewis Andrew
jonleighton 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 29/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with stefan
Stefan_Morris 29/Apr/14 Lead
Maken 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S
shed_hed 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Really nice.

dswansonlow 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant, sustained climbing. Really pumpy for something that close to vertical!

SJS 12/Apr/14 2nd
with Nick
Andrew1 08/Apr/14 Lead
with Hulda
Hidden 08/Apr/14 2nd
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Tubs 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Ian L, Liz F
Dizz 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Tom, Ian l
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Lead
Alex the Alex 14/Sep/13 Lead dnf

fell off the slopers. Not keen to dog it all the way so exited left via eight gauge.

pie_eater_pete 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
James Oswald 03/Sep/13 Lead rpt

After seconding Jon on it a while ago, very good!!

ian caton 02/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Abi
Abi Chard 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Jim Slater 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

A bit of stamina training is in order!

bwestwood ?/Sep/13 2nd
Andrew Wilson 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Shauna 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant, a great E2 for cowards with stamina.

with Jules
Joughton 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Nice warm up, though a little more pumpy than I'd expected.

JulesV 25/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Shauna, Shauna Cunningham
Justin T 11/Aug/13 2nd
with Sue
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Sam Simpson 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Mark Grist 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Dr Toph 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S

More pumpy than it initially appears, sustained with a well positioned crux. Fine line.

with Jenny
JClimb 01/Jul/13 2nd dog

Excellent climb, very annoyed at having to rest to take out the last bit of gear!

with Topha
dominic lee 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
Jake Young 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

cool route, amazing wall climbing.

Daniel Heath 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Trainers. Nice face climbing on good holds/cracks

with Remus
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Pippa 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
mountain_jay 09/Jun/13 2nd
r_o_b_h2 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nik Goile
Dibdawg 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Tom Vassen
Ollie B 29/May/13 Lead β

Attempted 4yrs ago (lowered from the pedestal). Cool climbing.

with D.Campbell
Duncan Campbell 29/May/13 2nd
with Ollie B
burto 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with hertha
Chi Cheng 02/May/13 2nd rpt
with Adam Knightly
Olli-C 02/May/13 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 02/May/13 Lead O/S

A little pumpy for a warm-up. Great route though.

Haydn Jones 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with pep
Johnny Baker ??/2013 -
with Nigel Birtwell
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
msoldn 14/Oct/12 Lead dog

in one pitch. big stamina required for this one, not something I brought with me that day. tough for E2, very sustained in middle section, but excellent gear and super enjoyable, varied climbing all the way

with Edwin
Stuart Johnston 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Dave Cowell
Ed Babs 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 18/Sep/12 2nd
with Ed
gregoritos 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
pembrokeshirecaver 30/Jul/12 2nd β
Ed morris 30/Jul/12 Lead β

Very steady, lots of gear. Fairly pumpy but no really hard moves.

with Dickon
eddy-on-the-rocks 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 23/Jul/12 2nd
with edd
Hidden 19/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd rpt
theotherpetehill 28/May/12 Lead O/S

Really good but pumpy, nearly fell off

Ewan Russell 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Halla
JamieSparkes 06/May/12 Lead O/S
CragDog 06/May/12 2nd
Chi Cheng 04/May/12 Lead O/S
melonmike 04/May/12 2nd O/S
with chi
vanderz 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
andy dunn 07/Apr/12 Lead β

Seconded the route about 2 years ago

with J
Pippa 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Tink
Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd
ben1987 ?/Apr/12 -
JRae 11/Mar/12 Lead

Cheeky ab in for one more route. Awesome, perfect climbing!

pete1993 11/Mar/12 2nd
Owain Llewelyn 08/Mar/12 Lead
with Gareth E
Adam Coles ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
al99 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Luke Hodson
lukehodson 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
just one more 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S

BRilliant route,no real crux just nicely sustained.Classic E2 5b, loads of gear

with Svenn G
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd
drysori 15/Sep/11 Lead dog

a bad choice for a warm up, swung onto ab rope and prussiked the last section when I ran out of quickdraws!

with Jon L
Dave Rumney 29/Aug/11 2nd
with Phil Moore
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead dog
climbingpixie 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Brilliant route but glad I was seconding, got pumped enough just taking the gear out! Nothing felt mega hard on it but no giveaway moves either.

with Andy
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
davesimpson ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Awesome route, will go back this summer and lead

with Dean Russel
steve.warrington 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 22/Jul/11 Lead O/S

1 pitch

edmitchell 22/Jul/11 2nd dog
C coldwell-storry 22/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with rob lay
Hidden 19/Jul/11 -
James Oswald 07/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Awesome. So very sustained. No real rests.

Glyn 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Amy
Phill Mitch 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great route, sustained and in a great position.

with bleggs, mick
pipof747 27/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead β
Dave Foster 21/Jun/11 Lead

Got pumped but managed it. Got rained on solidly for 5 minutes but managed it. Hung on for another fifteen minutes then fell off, twice. Very sustained and pumpy through middle section and difficult to read quickly. Extremely good route though.

with Jim
robin_hackney 21/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Si
robin_hackney 20/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Si
Cragrat Rich 29/May/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb. Thought it was quite hard in places and a bit pumpy too. I found it hard to work out the next moves as quick as i'd have liked at the hard bits but some of the holds are really cool to latch on to!

Hidden 29/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead rpt
belay bunny turned bad 20/May/11 2nd rpt
with loundsy
Hidden 05/May/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S

brilliant route. pumpy.

with Simon
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Raff
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 15/Apr/11 AltLd

Ran out of quick draws by the first stance so had to stop!!! 10 in the first 10m, possibly a little over the top :)

with loundsy
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead rpt
markalmack 09/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with james marjot
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Paul Boggis ??/2011 AltLd
phil64 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
koalapie 12/Sep/10 2nd β
richardr 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
ksjs 01/Sep/10 2nd rpt

high quality pitch

with phil
Dan Lane 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

awesome, best route i've ever done, almost everymove felt like 5b, with rests on 5a stuff...

drcorbasisgod 30/Aug/10 2nd rpt
irish paul 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
cem 30/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Johan Piper, Chris Parson
andy dunn 29/Aug/10 2nd
thomasadixon 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Ian Heginbotham, Matthew Tink Taylor
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
C Mclean 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Kieran O' Sullivan
Misha 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Last route of the day, just in time before it started getting dusky. Really nice climbing throughout, particularly on the middle section where every move was (or felt) 5b for about 10 metres, though fortunately there were a few mini-rests.

with Phil
philhilo 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Nearly dark. Very sustained crimpy and steep, but v v good.

with misha
givemetea 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S

what a fab route following a wondering but strong line up the face. sustained and a bit pumpy through the middle section. one of my favorite routes of the year!

with Helen King
Graham Iles 14/Aug/10 2nd
with Neil Stabbs
Fran S8 01/Aug/10 Lead
matt.woodfield 11/Jul/10 AltLd
mike lawrence? 01/Jul/10 2nd
with James the Navigator
Jessie Rushbrooke 17/May/10 Lead β

first E2 with beta

with GF
irish paul 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd O/S
metal arms 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Pown 07/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Mr Powly 07/Apr/10 2nd
with Malcolm
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
cymjt ??/2010 -
Jessie Rushbrooke 13/Oct/09 2nd
with GF
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead
robinsi197 29/Aug/09 2nd
with Neil
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Owen Davies
simonp ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
haydng 30/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Dave
Ed Booth 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Anna's first multi pitch E2, and she seconded the whole thing clean! Massively awesome!

haydng 15/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Got so pumped I had to hand it over to Rob for a sports climb!

with Rob
haydng 15/Jul/09 2nd rpt
with Rob
Hidden 05/Jun/09 2nd
Alex Mason 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Not as soft as i expected, i think i did the direct finish in hindsight.

with Nick Rabb
Bux 24/May/09 AltLd O/S

I did first pith, Ruth used the Bevan technique on the second. Awesome!

with Ruth Bevan
Dave Rumney 03/May/09 2nd
with Tanya Milner
khawk 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with DT
Hidden 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
matt.woodfield 24/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
gjd 28/Sep/08 2nd
with Ronnie
Oli 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Done in 2 pitches due to a threatening sea. I led the first pitch (5a) and was able to enjoy one of the best belay ledges in the world

with Dom Ske
Hidden 19/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 29/Aug/08 2nd O/S
gforce 07/Aug/08 Lead
with Jason
morganator 27/Jul/08 2nd O/S
lukea 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Rich
Castleclimber 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Climbed in two pitches. I led the second (Crux)pitch.

Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/08 Lead dog
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead β
Hidden 30/May/08 Lead
dts 30/May/08 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 10/May/08 Lead rpt

A long story

with hadyn
MikeT ?/May/08 2nd dog
with MS
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Apr/08 2nd dog
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
janegallwey ??/2008 2nd
VPJB ??/2008 -
Hidden 18/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 13/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with reeve
Tim W 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Gareth Tucker
stuwelly85 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Ben Freeman
Hidden 04/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
bfreeman ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Jon Freeman
HughM ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Shane Norton
Bella 29/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Lucy Ham
Paz 16/Jun/07 2nd β
with TS
Tim Steward 16/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with James Parrot
jude s ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with G Fry
cem 05/May/07 2nd rpt
waltersp 16/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
david morse 04/Apr/07 Lead dog
with chris todd
Hidden 04/Apr/07 2nd β
datoon 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with MJ
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
dan gibson 30/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with martina
Hidden 27/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Mark Riley 13/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Topped out in the rain.

with Reeve
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/06 Lead dog

2 rests

with Andy Barwell
Andy Barwell ?/Jun/06 2nd
tom.e 30/May/06 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 30/Apr/06 2nd dog
Different Steve 30/Apr/06 2nd O/S

Super sustained after the ledge

with Guy Reid
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd
Boy ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2006 Lead O/S
with keith
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 01/Sep/05 -
with Paul Morgan
Brown 01/Aug/05 2nd
dicky79 ?/Aug/05 Lead dnf
with Vic Odell
Dave Reeve ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Tony Payne
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 23/May/05 2nd

In the pouring rain!

with Tuffty Nick
LC ?/May/05 Lead O/S
cem 28/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Liam Mark
Urgles ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Jack G
Steve Crowe 08/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
dickypips ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S

both pitches done as one

Hidden 27/Jun/03 2nd
goi.ashmore 11/May/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 -
robbo157 ??/2001 -
with Tim Sparrow
Hidden 01/Aug/00 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 -
WB 03/May/99 Lead O/S
with John the knife
nickdonohue 28/Aug/98 Lead

another brilliant climb

with Mark McCarthy
Rich Kirby 02/Jun/98 2nd
PaulTanton 01/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 24/Oct/97 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 20/Oct/96 -
with Paul Tucker
Colin Edwards ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Simon Gough Brown
Colin Edwards 25/Aug/95 TR dog
with Simon Gough Brown
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 Lead
with Graham Iles
Mark Kemball 29/Jul/92 Lead
with Alison Dorey
jfletcher 14/Jun/92 Solo O/S

In hindsight, O/S solo not a good idea, bit of a wobble!

Roget 06/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with jon
Dave Musgrove 27/Mar/91 2nd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Mar/91 Lead
with Dad
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/90 Lead
Hidden 12/May/90 Lead
Andy Say 02/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 -
steve taylor ?/Aug/88 Lead
with vic radvills
Hidden 31/May/88 Lead O/S
michael burrows 31/May/88 Lead O/S
with steve williams
steve taylor ?/May/88 Lead O/S
with vic radvills
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/87 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/87 Lead
Billg 23/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 20/Jul/87 AltLd
Hidden 19/Apr/87 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Nigel Coe ??/1987 AltLd
rob.grafton ?/Aug/86 -
with barry maybank
sadams 25/May/86 Lead
with Mark Bonham
neilh 09/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with dave croker
neilh 09/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with dave croker
shark 09/Apr/85 2nd
Hidden ??/1985 -
Mark Kemball 22/Jul/83 2nd


with Dave Abbey
steve L 18/Jun/83 AltLd O/S
with Alun Richardson
Mark Kemball 02/Apr/83 AltLd
with Mark Roberts
Mike Owen 23/Oct/82 -
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 13/Apr/82 Lead
with Dave Fernley, Sian Calow
Hidden 09/Apr/82 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
with Martin Corbett
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/79 AltLd
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High E3
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Votes cast 72
High 5c
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Votes cast 72
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Not Set