Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
The arete of Brazen Buttress gives a magnificently-positioned pitch which has set many a camera clicking. Start beneath the arete. Climb up the left-hand side to gain a crack. Follow this to some ledges on the arete (possible thread belay if the sea is threatening). Climb the left-hand side of the arete then move onto the arete proper. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, D.Garner May/1975.
2021 , Wales Trip - 2022 , Pembs Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 4 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: With a hanging belay and the waves lapping at my feet and being a miserable toe rag just wishing to head to the pub instead of one final route. Did get quite concerned when our good friends pulled their abb rope up to go home leaving on a committed approach to get home. Sorry Max for being a grumpy bugger. Well done for the scend! Start is stiff. Great climbing half way up. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: With a hanging belay and the waves lapping at my feet and being a miserable toe rag just wishing to head to the pub instead of one final route. Did get quite concerned when our good friends pulled their abb rope up to go home leaving on a committed approach to get home. Sorry Max for being a grumpy bugger. Well done for the scend! Start is stiff. Great climbing half way up. |
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Paul Evans | 15 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Yep, about right for E2. "Climb up the left hand side to gain a crack..." - hmm - seem to remember a perplexing move left across a scoop just before the crack, which took some working out. Lovely route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Yep, about right for E2. "Climb up the left hand side to gain a crack..." - hmm - seem to remember a perplexing move left across a scoop just before the crack, which took some working out. Lovely route. |
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geoffgo21 | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I am glad this has been upgraded, always felt too hard for e1! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I am glad this has been upgraded, always felt too hard for e1! |
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Sam and will | 9 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: a brilliant route, but has a rather unnerving start | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: a brilliant route, but has a rather unnerving start |
The lines on the online Rockfax App Topo are the wrong way round. Herod is to the right on the arĂȘte.
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(St. Govan's Head)