UKC

Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

39m.

Rockfax Description
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
A seminal route in many climber's careers; as your arms become tired, the holds just get bigger and bigger! Start below the groove as for Deep Space. Climb the groove, which is surprisingly technical and slabby, until a line of jugs leads out right to another groove. Follow this, with most of the Atlantic Ocean beneath you, then move right into an easier finishing crack. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison Mar/1977.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , World Class Britain & Ireland , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 30 For My 30s , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

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User Date Notes
Julian Wedd 2008 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 51
High 6a
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Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 51
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Scoop

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Penally West)

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