UKC

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Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

45m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
This route makes the most of the Space Face by taking an intricate diagonal line across it.
1) 6a, 15m. Follow a right-trending wide crack for 5m, then move back left on big holds to a thread. Go straight up from this to a hole, then move right to another hole. Pull into the groove above and the belay of Warp Factor.
2) 5c, 10m. Move up to some juggy pockets which lead rightwards, past some threads, to the stance of Mother Night.
3) 5c, 20m. Pull out right from the stance to below an open groove. Traverse right across the blank wall to a good pocket. Follow the crackline above, moving right around the bulge at the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 06/May/1979.

Ticklists

Trad climbs for sport climbers , 101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Pembroke dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Briggs 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch (and whole route) is E4 5c if you take the most logical line: Start 20 feet right of the Warp Factor groove. From a hanging belay, follow a rightwards trending wide crack/fault for 15 feet, then back left on monster buckets to an in situ (blue) thread. Straight up from this to a hole, then right for 5 feet to another hole. Pull round into the groove above (belay of Warp Factor).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch (and whole route) is E4 5c if you take the most logical line: Start 20 feet right of the Warp Factor groove. From a hanging belay, follow a rightwards trending wide crack/fault for 15 feet, then back left on monster buckets to an in situ (blue) thread. Straight up from this to a hole, then right for 5 feet to another hole. Pull round into the groove above (belay of Warp Factor).

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tangerine Dream

Grade: E4 6a ***
(St. Govan's Head)

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