Rockfax Description
Classic steep climbing past loads of threads - about 7a+ but check the threads first! Start 10m left of the Mother Night ledge. Climb up then move right around the first bulge to a thread in a diagonal slab. Climb up the overlaps leftwards to the traverse line of Hyper Space. Pull up above and follow the line of threads, keeping left of the short groove, to the upper break. Either finish straight up the wall, or as for Mother Night. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 1992

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

quiffhanger 31/Aug Lead O/S

Harder and scarier than expected. Threads not in good nick made it feel pretty serious - worryingly close to taking a v big lob onto them & not sure they would have held. Would probably have given up if the gear was better but I was forced to press-on instead! Think Rachel had almost as exciting an experience as her second ever E5 on second.

with Rachel
Ed morris 27/May Lead O/S

Just got on with it, my anti style too, trad head back on!

with Ian Bryant
NDD 24/May Lead O/S
with tony stone
Misha 23/May Lead dog

How can this be so damn hard when most of the holds are jugs?! Not used to hard steep stuff so footwork was shoddy. Completely misread the route at the first thread, missing the massive undercut next to the thread. Instead got into a strenuous dead end position and eventually peeled off. A decent lob but within reach of the face so pulled back on. Back up but couldn't figure out how to get off the ramp above the thread - looks like something you can rest on, well you can't! Slumped onto the thread for a rest. Next go figured it out and climbed through to the threads above. Seem good holds but hard to depump. Poor rest level with the stance of Mother Night. Above that it didn't relent! Got the next thread, which was round a thin finger or rock, and got up to the next one but was totally bolloxed so clipped the draw but unable to clip the rope! Tried hanging onto the draw (how pathetic!) but to no avail and gravity soon took its toll. Big fall as the next thread down blew - the thin finger of rock is no more! Take a yellow cam instead. Back up, had a rest on the top gear, climbed better this time so clipped the thread and moved up to the jug at the next thread. Spent a while there, trying out the tricky moves up and left. The jug was good enough to hang around on. Eventually went for it and the moves weren't too bad. Tried to finish direct but it was desperate - looked easy but everything was sloping the wrong way. Tried it twice, resting on gear both times, then gave up and stepped left to follow the next groove, which was fine. Totally wastes! Cams 0.3 to 2 plus wires/offsets. Most threads need replacing. Will be back!

with Rachel
nathanlee 23/May 2nd rpt
with Mal Scott
Rachel Slater 23/May 2nd rpt

Felt significantly harder than when I lead this last year. Got a little pumped this time! (Must get fitter..)

with Misha
bigie bob 23/May Lead O/S
Cailean Harker 19/May Lead O/S
malx ?/May Lead O/S
youngidiotnic 26/Apr Lead β
Tom Livingstone 11/Apr 2nd rpt
HAJ Francis ?/Apr Lead G/U
Tom Livingstone 24/Mar Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
brices 26/Jul/14 Lead dog

Awesome route, super pumpy and massively intimidating, one to go back for

with Mike
Ramon Marin 26/May/14 Lead dnf

Got on it as first route of the day. Fairly wet and spend too much time protecting the first bit before clipping the first tat, so pumped out and lowered down. Will come back for take two hopefully in better conditions

Hidden 14/May/14 2nd
Justin T 02/May/14 2nd
with Rachel
Rachel Slater 02/May/14 Lead O/S

Justin was going to do it but somehow persuaded me to do it instead? First E5 and I've never done an E4! Pretty intimidating but the climbing felt easy after sport climbing for a few months...

nathanlee 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

got pumped going the wrong way then had to try hard! the top is immaculate

with Rob Greenwood
Joughton 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Crazy route, it seems impossibly steep when you abseil in. Fortunately most of the holds were absolutely massive! Probably the physically hardest trad lead I've done, but well protected. Lots and lots of 6a moves - sooooo pumpy! Hard crux moving out left near the top before reaching the highest break.

Daniel Heath 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Such a cool route! Tried to jam rest halfway but too painful (would be a great rest if taped up). Got a bit pumped high up, then went right into the groove to pull up some much smaller holds. Not sure if this is the right line? Very comfy kneebar no hands rest above the groove. I wimped out of the direct finish, scared of messing it up.

with Remus
Hidden 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
redjerry ?/Sep/12 TR
jacobjacob 28/May/12 Lead O/S

Wild! Some of the threads have seen better days but there are so many one is bound to hold! The loose top out made it much more interesting.

theotherpetehill 28/May/12 2nd dog

Totally frigged this

mgeek 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Neill Busby
JRae 22/Aug/11 2nd
pipof747 30/Jun/11 Lead RP

Sent 2. go after Fall at last hard move on the on sight. Sooo pumpy...

Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

Not a clip up! Great route, a fair bit spicier than i was expecting. Threads in good nick, but take a few extra slings

mwatson ??/2011 -
Toby Dunn 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
JulesV ??/2010 Lead O/S
with joe bawden
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Aug/01 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1998 2nd
Steve Crowe 02/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with KM
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, tommccluskey, EyebrowTom, Andrew Nelson, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, Tom Livingstone, brices, Hidden, Ricky Rocks, Ed Booth
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set