Just Klingon*** E5 6a
[Just klingingon, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Classic steep climbing past loads of threads - about 7a+ but check the threads first! Start 10m left of the Mother Night ledge. Climb up then move right around the first bulge to a thread in a diagonal slab. Climb up the overlaps leftwards to the traverse line of Hyper Space. Pull up above and follow the line of threads, keeping left of the short groove, to the upper break. Either finish straight up the wall, or as for Mother Night. © ROCKFAX

FA. G.Gibson 1992

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: Just klingingon © Gareth H
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 37 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Harder and scarier than expected. Threads not in good nick made it feel pretty serious - worryingly close to taking a v big lob onto them & not sure they would have held. Would probably have given up if the gear was better but I was forced to press-on instead! Think Rachel had almost as exciting an experience as her second ever E5 on second.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/15 with Rachel

Just got on with it, my anti style too, trad head back on!
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 27/May/15 with Ian Bryant

NDD - Lead O/S - 24/May/15 with tony stone

How can this be so damn hard when most of the holds are jugs?! Not used to hard steep stuff so footwork was shoddy. Completely misread the route at the first thread, missing the massive undercut next to the thread. Instead got into a strenuous dead end position and eventually peeled off. A decent lob but within reach of the face so pulled back on. Back up but couldn't figure out how to get off the ramp above the thread - looks like something you can rest on, well you can't! Slumped onto the thread for a rest. Next go figured it out and climbed through to the threads above. Seem good holds but hard to depump. Poor rest level with the stance of Mother Night. Above that it didn't relent! Got the next thread, which was round a thin finger or rock, and got up to the next one but was totally bolloxed so clipped the draw but unable to clip the rope! Tried hanging onto the draw (how pathetic!) but to no avail and gravity soon took its toll. Big fall as the next thread down blew - the thin finger of rock is no more! Take a yellow cam instead. Back up, had a rest on the top gear, climbed better this time so clipped the thread and moved up to the jug at the next thread. Spent a while there, trying out the tricky moves up and left. The jug was good enough to hang around on. Eventually went for it and the moves weren't too bad. Tried to finish direct but it was desperate - looked easy but everything was sloping the wrong way. Tried it twice, resting on gear both times, then gave up and stepped left to follow the next groove, which was fine. Totally wastes! Cams 0.3 to 2 plus wires/offsets. Most threads need replacing. Will be back!
Misha - Lead dog - 23/May/15 with Rachel

nathanlee - 2nd rpt - 23/May/15 with Mal Scott

Felt significantly harder than when I lead this last year. Got a little pumped this time! (Must get fitter..)
Rachel Slater - 2nd rpt - 23/May/15 with Misha

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 23/May/15

Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 19/May/15

malx - Lead O/S - May/15

youngidiotnic - Lead β - 26/Apr/15

Tom Livingstone - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/15 with Henry Francis

HAJ Francis - Lead G/U - Apr/15

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/15 with Tony Stone

ian bryant - 2015

Awesome route, super pumpy and massively intimidating, one to go back for
brices - Lead dog - 26/Jul/14 with Mike

Got on it as first route of the day. Fairly wet and spend too much time protecting the first bit before clipping the first tat, so pumped out and lowered down. Will come back for take two hopefully in better conditions
Ramon Marin - Lead dnf - 26/May/14 with Justin Timms

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/14

Justin T - 2nd - 02/May/14 with Rachel

Justin was going to do it but somehow persuaded me to do it instead? First E5 and I've never done an E4! Pretty intimidating but the climbing felt easy after sport climbing for a few months...
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 02/May/14 with Justin Timms

got pumped going the wrong way then had to try hard! the top is immaculate
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Rob Greenwood

Crazy route, it seems impossibly steep when you abseil in. Fortunately most of the holds were absolutely massive! Probably the physically hardest trad lead I've done, but well protected. Lots and lots of 6a moves - sooooo pumpy! Hard crux moving out left near the top before reaching the highest break.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

Such a cool route! Tried to jam rest halfway but too painful (would be a great rest if taped up). Got a bit pumped high up, then went right into the groove to pull up some much smaller holds. Not sure if this is the right line? Very comfy kneebar no hands rest above the groove. I wimped out of the direct finish, scared of messing it up.
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Remus

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/13

redjerry - TR - Sep/12

Wild! Some of the threads have seen better days but there are so many one is bound to hold! The loose top out made it much more interesting.
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 28/May/12

Totally frigged this
theotherpetehill - 2nd dog - 28/May/12 with jacobjacob

mgeek - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Neill Busby

JRae - 2nd - 22/Aug/11 with M Watson

Sent 2. go after Fall at last hard move on the on sight. Sooo pumpy...
pipof747 - Lead RP - 30/Jun/11

Not a clip up! Great route, a fair bit spicier than i was expecting. Threads in good nick, but take a few extra slings
Ged Desforges - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10 with Joe Bawden

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2010 with joe bawden

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/01 with James Ibbertson

Southern Mark Smith - Lead O/S - 2000

Marti999 - 2nd - 1998 with Rich White

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/96 with KM

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jamestaylor92, EyebrowTom, Andrew Nelson, iceaxejuggler, Tom Livingstone, brices, Ricky Rocks, Ed Booth

Total votes cast 26
hard E60 of 9
E60 of 9
easy E60 of 9
hard E51 of 9
E56 of 9
easy E52 of 9
hard E40 of 9
E40 of 9
easy E40 of 9
hard 6b0 of 9
6b0 of 9
easy 6b0 of 9
hard 6a2 of 9
6a7 of 9
easy 6a0 of 9
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
3 Stars8 of 8
2 Stars0 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP