30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The central route on the wall provides a magnificent challenge. Get yourself onto a tiny ledge, just left of the big cave, either from below or above; or start from lower at low tide.
1) 6a, 15m. Climb up left from the ledge to a small roof. Make a very hard move around this to a tiring undercut above. Pull up left (also hard) into another groove then climb up over the overlaps to reach a good stance at the base of a steep corner.
2) 5c, 15m. Climb the corner then traverse left to a monster thread on the very nose of the buttress (you'll see what I mean when you get there!). Step left and climb the wall to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 7.4.78 07/Apr/1978

Ticklists: Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke.

JulesV 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Will Boxen
Ed morris 27/May/15 2nd rpt
with Ian Bryant
valecoastclimber 24/May/15 Lead O/S
dan gibson 21/May/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy mother this one!

with Eszter
Tom Livingstone 11/Apr/15 Lead β

Led in one big pitch. Had seconded top pitch before.

Tom Livingstone 24/Mar/15 2nd β

Top pitch only

ian bryant ??/2015 -
Ed morris 15/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Makes Tangerine Dream look like E3. Will be back.

with Jerry Handren
jacobjacob 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

I got the glory second pitch which is infested with jugs. The first pitch was hard! Gutted I didn't get to watch Ian abbing into the sea...

Hidden 13/May/14 2nd
i_a_coops ??/2014 Lead O/S

Led p1 after nearly abbing into the sea. Fierce!

mwatson 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S

crux was wet so went left then back right both felt like 6b

thomasadixon 11/Mar/12 2nd dog

First pitch felt hard an greasy, trashed me! Damn good effort by Mike. Second was just class, should have led it really but first just took me down.

with Mike
pipof747 28/Jun/11 Lead RP
Billg 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Felt OK for E4 - never too hard with good, but spaced gear. Would be hard if greasy!

with Will Calvert
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
morganator 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

E4 in the cockfax- it isn't!

with Andy Benson
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead dog
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/02 Lead
Hidden 13/May/01 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 29/Aug/96 2nd O/S

(seconded Karin 8 April 2004)

with KM
shark 03/Sep/94 AltLd O/S
DDDD ??/1992 AltLd O/S
with Simon Lee
frank ramsay ?/Apr/90 Lead O/S
keefe 07/May/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
EyebrowTom, Andrew Nelson, andy dunn
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set