30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The central route on the wall provides a magnificent challenge. Get yourself onto a tiny ledge, just left of the big cave, either from below or above; or start from lower at low tide.
1) 6a, 15m. Climb up left from the ledge to a small roof. Make a very hard move around this to a tiring undercut above. Pull up left (also hard) into another groove then climb up over the overlaps to reach a good stance at the base of a steep corner.
2) 5c, 15m. Climb the corner then traverse left to a monster thread on the very nose of the buttress (you'll see what I mean when you get there!). Step left and climb the wall to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 7.4.78 07/Apr/1978

Ticklists: Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
ian d f 03/Jun Lead dnf

Couldn't suss the initial roof. Down-climbed, will try again sometime.

pearson9596 03/Jun 2nd dnf
Duncan Campbell 02/Jun 2nd dog

Tagged along with Mia and Soph because Anna was too ill to even belay today. Found the bottom pitch hard which wasn't helped by the fact I had a load of wet rope draped over me when Mia and I had to escape the incoming tide. Only do this in a three if you don't mind getting a bit cosy on the stances! Top pitch is so good! Not a wasted day as got to check out Just Klingon - it looks amazing and much more straight forward than Mother Night.

soph 02/Jun AltLd dog

Led p1 - got pretty pumped! Fell off roof on first go - not a good idea to put wire in hand hold! Amazing route - loved it

miastacey ?/Jun AltLd

Lead pitch 2. Got pitch 1 clean with Soph giving instructions.

with Duncan Campbell, Sophie Whyte
JulesV 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Will Boxen
Ed morris 27/May/15 2nd rpt
with Ian Bryant
valecoastclimber 24/May/15 Lead O/S
dan gibson 21/May/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy mother this one!

with Eszter
Tom Livingstone 11/Apr/15 Lead β

Led in one big pitch. Had seconded top pitch before.

Tom Livingstone 24/Mar/15 2nd β

Top pitch only

ian bryant ??/2015 -
Ed morris 15/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Makes Tangerine Dream look like E3. Will be back.

with Jerry Handren
jacobjacob 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

I got the glory second pitch which is infested with jugs. The first pitch was hard! Gutted I didn't get to watch Ian abbing into the sea...

Hidden 13/May/14 2nd
i_a_coops ??/2014 Lead O/S

Led p1 after nearly abbing into the sea. Fierce!

mwatson 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S

crux was wet so went left then back right both felt like 6b

thomasadixon 11/Mar/12 2nd dog

First pitch felt hard an greasy, trashed me! Damn good effort by Mike. Second was just class, should have led it really but first just took me down.

with Mike
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead G/U

Took a fall at the start of P1, lowered, then did it next go - which was positive because if I'd have failed again I'd have probably had to have swum out! How can something so steep have so few good holds. God bless you Pat Littlejohn...

with James Marjot
pipof747 28/Jun/11 Lead RP
Billg 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Felt OK for E4 - never too hard with good, but spaced gear. Would be hard if greasy!

with Will Calvert
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
morganator 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

E4 in the cockfax- it isn't!

with Andy Benson
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead dog
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/02 Lead
Hidden 13/May/01 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 29/Aug/96 2nd O/S

(seconded Karin 8 April 2004)

with KM
Steve Long ??/1996 Lead G/U

A game of 2 halves. Failed on pitch 2 in 1983; knackered after climbing pitch 1 cleanly but only just! At the time it was graded at E3, a bit of a sandbag at that grade, but Mr. Littlejohn probably did find it straightforward! Repeated and completed years later.

ukb shark 03/Sep/94 AltLd O/S
DDDD ??/1992 AltLd O/S
with Simon Lee
Eduardo Martinez ??/1991 Lead O/S
frank ramsay ?/Apr/90 Lead O/S
keefe 07/May/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Paul Clarke ??/1985 Lead
with LUMC
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set