Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
The central route on the wall provides a magnificent challenge. Get yourself onto a tiny ledge, just left of the big cave, either from below or above; or start from lower at low tide.
1) 6a, 15m. Climb up left from the ledge to a small roof. Make a very hard move around this to a tiring undercut above. Pull up left (also hard) into another groove then climb up over the overlaps to reach a good stance at the base of a steep corner.
2) 5c, 15m. Climb the corner then traverse left to a monster thread on the very nose of the buttress (you'll see what I mean when you get there!). Step left and climb the wall to the top. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 07/Apr/1978.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gareth H | 8 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very pumpy and sustained first pitch, bomber gear but keeps coming at you, top pitch pumpy E3 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very pumpy and sustained first pitch, bomber gear but keeps coming at you, top pitch pumpy E3 |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Stackpole Head)