Rockfax Description
12m. A superbly positioned climb taking the line of least resistance up the wall, the start can feel committing but the protection higher up is superb. Start up the short crack to reach a line of good but slightly rickety holds, move left then rock up with conviction to stand on a good ledge. Move right to a thin crack and follow this to a solid PR make a long pull past this, crux, to reach the top. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, M Cameron 4.6.81 04/Jun/1981

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 30/Aug Lead G/U
Stanners 20/Aug Lead O/S

Superb. End is only really hard because the clipped peg obstructs the hold a bit!

rob 528 09/Jul Lead dog
Ian Jones 04/Jul 2nd dog

Peg for aid. Bit desperate for the vertically challenged. 6a at least

Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
adamre12 11/Jun Lead O/S

Psyched to get this OS! Solid gear all the way up. The rockover was great fun - fairly easy. Followed by steady moves and a great technical crux to reach the top. 3*.

Natalia Wasielka
gavinpeach 16/May Lead O/S

Brilliant route with excellent technical crux moves at the top moving to and past the peg (Bold until the peg is clipped).

Max Pendleton
Gabe Oliver 05/Apr Lead O/S

Stoked to get this! Hard moves at the top and very happy to stick the move to the top edge

Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Nick Russell 03/May/14 Lead O/S

It's only E2 if you can clip the peg before committing to the crux. (I couldn't quite get it from the ledge, but could rock up a little to clip it then come down again before going for it.) Great sequence and overall a really good route.

SJS 03/May/14 2nd
papashango 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

awesome route

Mattlamb90 15/Jul/13 Lead β

Lead on stripsys gear

luke384 15/Jul/13 Lead β
Ryan mcconnell, Luke owens,, matthew lamb
Luke Owens 15/Jul/13 Lead RP

Blew the on-sight grabbing the wrong part of the top of the crag. Went easily 2nd go, great route.

mark20 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Niall Grimes 04/Jun/13 Lead dog

Rested on crux. Very hot.

Graham Atkins 29/Jun/12 Lead
JulesV 29/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Almost dark

drcorbasisgod 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S
cem 28/Apr/12 2nd dog

Did it as a clean onsight lead a few years ago but far too tired & lacking in motivation this time round

david morse 16/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S
tlmarjot 16/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Chris Todd, Dave Morse
Hidden 09/Sep/11 2nd
Mr Sparkle 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Anna nearly seconded and was an inch off the top of the crags. Great effort. It wans't easy.

Hidden 15/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/11 -
lost.arrow 27/Jul/11 Lead dnf
Ian Ashworth
Neil D 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Betha. 02/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Apr/11 TR dog
Ben1983 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

A good route, but too cruxy for three stars.

paul79 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
lrandall 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing, well worth three stars despite its relatively short length. A spicy feeling rockover low down and clipping the peg whilst mid-crux make for quality entertainment.

mynyddresident 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Superb final moves.

spidey 03/Jul/10 Lead
paul ukc
climbing_wiggy 03/Jul/10 2nd dog
mzchambers 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Great climbing and the Crux is amazing move. 3 Star

George Porter
Laurence Everitt 20/May/10 Lead O/S
Helen Dale, Jay Kay
Hidden 06/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 06/Mar/10 2nd O/S
smallerrich 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
switch 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S

pulled off a couple of lumps of flake after the first pull up from the ground

Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
jcurley 07/May/09 2nd dnf

Rested on gear at crux, didn't lower and seriously tight rope, says it all.

Diggler 07/May/09 2nd
Mike Buddle
Adam Booth 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd rpt
ColinD 12/Apr/09 Lead
John Norman
Bob 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S

HVS apart from the move to gain the peg which is hard when frozen stiff!

M. Bullough & S. Brock
grady ??/2009 Lead O/S
Jo wood 04/Oct/08 2nd
Dylan Burgess
metal arms 02/Aug/08 Lead dog

Sat on the peg for a few seconds. Found the top really delicate

Hidden 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
Hidden 06/Jun/07 Lead O/S
spacey 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
jo macey
cem 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Brad Jackson
Dan 85 25/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Smith42 ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 22/Jul/06 Lead O/S
gary wood
BruceW 04/Jun/06 Lead dog

The hard move actually ruins the character of the route.

Al D.
Mark Riley ?/May/05 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 30/Sep/02 TR
lost.arrow 07/Apr/02 -
Hidden ??/2000 TR
NeilGriffiths 15/Mar/99 -
jason smythe
Shaved Atom ??/1997 Lead O/S
smudge 09/Jul/96 Lead O/S
John Marsland ??/1995 2nd

Not sure which year

Allen Newby
Julian Wedd ??/1995 -
Hidden 06/Aug/94 Lead O/S
D Tempest 04/Jun/94 Lead
Roget 07/May/94 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/88 2nd
michael burrows 22/Jun/88 2nd
steve williams
Hidden 19/Apr/88 2nd
Mike Owen 02/Nov/86 -
Elaine Owen
Hidden 08/Jun/86 2nd
neilh 23/Jun/85 Lead O/S
dave croker
wynaptomos ?/Jun/84 2nd dog
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 32
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set