4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent climb that builds to a stunning and very exposed crack pitch on the headwall.
1) 5a, 15m. As for Vector.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb up, then pull left and tackle a short steep groove left of a jutting nose. Urgent moves through this lead with relief to a small ledge and a groove shared with Nimbus. Follow this to the Vector cave stance.
3) 4b, 10m. Continue along the same diagonal line to a belay below the headwall.
4) 6a, 15m. Head up a crack and step left into a small groove. Move up this to gain the crack in the headwall. Charge up this and make a powerful move out left to improving holds leading leftwards to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The exposed top pitch up the middle of the headwall is sustained and out there but well protected and not too hard technically if you don't let the exposure get to you. (Using 150ft ropes & careful rope work it is possible to do the first 3 pitches as 1 with very little drag)

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, WideBoyz Crack School.

deacondeacon 22/May Lead O/S

Last two pitches. Final route of of a very long day which may have made it feel harder, but I only just managed to onsight this by the skin of my teeth. Amazing pitch that feels proper out there!

GPN 03/May Lead O/S
with Warren, Candice Bagley, Trad Exchange
soph 03/May AltLd rpt
with Gosia Lipinski
pete johnson 15/Mar AltLd
with Steve Long
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Tom Livingstone 03/Nov/15 Lead rpt

Top pitch only

with Angus Kille, Tim Neill
anguskille 03/Nov/15 2nd rpt
Sardien 18/Oct/15 2nd dog

All went well, until I touched the hold on the crux at top pitch but couldn't hang it. Bit gutted to miss out on the flash but pleased all other moves felt fine. WHat an amazing route! I led the 4b bit in the middle, which is largely taken up by an abandoned owl's nest, including lots of owl droppings.

WB 17/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

i might have done this before, but i can't remember if it was this or void

with Andy M
anguskille 16/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Rich Gentry
shaunhumphreys 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

P1 & 4. such a good route! Was worried the top pitch would be finger locks but was fine in the end!

with Micki
MSchobitz 11/Oct/15 AltLd dog

Led p2&3 in one pitch. Sadly popped off on the top pitch's crux, but pulled straight back on and finished it, so really gutted that I didnt get it clean! Should've made a note of where my hand was going! Strong effort by shaun on leading the last pitch!

Hidden 13/Sep/15 Lead rpt
FreddieSmith 10/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead rpt
NDD 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Michaela
MarkRoe 15/Jun/15 Lead RP

Just the last pitch this time. All pitches now climbed clean. Routes don't come much better than this.

with Ben Roe
BRoe 12/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

P2 and 4

MarkRoe 12/Jun/15 AltLd dog

Took a few falls on the last pitch. I'll be back.

with Ben Roe
Tubs 06/Jun/15 AltLd dog

Great route and very happy with my lead of P2 as it is sustained at 5c. A steadily increasing sense of urgency resulted in forearms like concrete by the Vector cave. The 6a reach on P4 was too far for me but I was able to bypass it by a tiny crimp on the right on my second try.

with Dave M
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead G/U
Tom Livingstone 30/May/15 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 23/May/15 Lead rpt

Top pitch only

morganator 11/May/15 AltLd dog

Gopping wet top pitch- lobbed off twice. Great route

with International Meet Guest
Hidden 22/Apr/15 Lead β
pete johnson 05/Apr/15 AltLd
with Chris Parkin
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
FreddieSmith ??/2015 Lead

Top holds were wet from the mornings rain still.

phil64 ??/2015 -
Ed morris 15/Nov/14 2nd rpt

Just the head wall pitch. Previously led it all. T-shirt weather in november!

with Tom Grant
HAJ Francis 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
bede.west 12/Oct/14 AltLd dog

Fell off this lots and lots and! lots. solid lead from henry on the crux! A possible long term nemesis. I'll Be Back!

Misha 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! The second pitch (which I combined with the first) is really good, with exposed positions and lots of interesting 3D climbing. Lots of rests and good gear but you have to go for it in between. Fortunately it yields to bridging so you can mostly stay on your feet. Solid E3 5c. I led the first two pitches in one to the slightly cramped belay seat in the cave. Ed then did the short ledge shuffle to the base of the crack. Easy to start, then gradually harder with balancey moves to get stood up on the "ledge", which provides a good rest. Climbed up a bit from there, placed a cam, it looked hard above so climbed back down. Up again and it wasn't too bad, another bomber cam in the next slot and it's the crux. Great move up to get a so-so finger lock but higher up the hold is rubbish! Reverse the move, hang around (because I can), up again, work the feet up (as ever) and get a good hold higher up just before breaking left. Breaking out left is a line of jugs, a bit footless to start but the hand holds are good enough and soon enough I'm on the top :-) What a great route and not that hard for E4 if you're fit. Thought the second pitch was the best as it's got some wild positions but the headwall is good fun as well and thankfully a bit easier than it looks!

with Ed
eduardo 21/Sep/14 AltLd dog
with Misha
Hidden 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
bigdrew 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led 1 and 4

with Dan
Hidden 30/Aug/14 -
soph 16/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
with Luke brooks, Blair Fyffe
Luke Brooks 16/Aug/14 AltLd
with soph
Stefan_Morris 12/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Ed morris 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lead all the hard climbing, bottom section is fluffable. Stunning position on the crux pitch!

with stefan
Hannes B 27/Jul/14 AltLd

1-3 in one

with wil
drysori 27/Jul/14 AltLd

Hannes led the first 3, I did the top. Took a winger from the jugs at the end as I was totally spooned. Great route!

Ram MkiV 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Alex
Alex Mason 11/Jun/14 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/May/14 Lead O/S

a beauty!

with Sam Townsend, Rennie
samt 28/May/14 2nd O/S

Dave led, brilliant climbing throughout.

with Ian Renshaw, Dave Musgrove
Luxulyan 21/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
pie_eater_pete 07/May/14 AltLd O/S
bwestwood 06/May/14 AltLd

5c pitch

mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 06/Oct/13 AltLd dnf
GraMc 24/Aug/13 AltLd dog

made a hash of the top pitch! great climbing all the same

with rob, pete abernethy
owain86 24/Aug/13 Lead dog

Fell off the crux, soaking wet in the crack. Will come back for this!

Andy Peak 1 23/Aug/13 2nd

Top pich only

Hidden 23/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Simon Allcock 20/Aug/13 2nd

dogged 4th (crux) pitch

with Wilki
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead β
John Postlethwaite 03/Aug/13 2nd dog
with liam
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
pete87abs ?/Aug/13 2nd β
with Graham, rob
tim newton 22/May/13 AltLd O/S

Brad led pitches 1,2&3 in a oner, which made for a brilliant steep pitch mostly on jugs. Then I lead the headwall. Bizarrely found it pretty simple despite it being my first E4 lead, have found many E3's this year harder. Such a good route though!!

Dangerous Dave 20/May/13 AltLd dog

Fell off the crux mostly due to being a bell end and partly due to it being sweaty!

Russell Birkett 20/May/13 AltLd

Led the first 3 pitches in one. Great climb, slipped off seconding the crux

Hidden 19/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 18/May/13 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 04/Mar/13 Lead rpt


Pete Rigby 03/Mar/13 AltLd dnf
with Kelli Roberts
Hidden ?/Mar/13 -
captain ??/2013 -
JRae 14/Oct/12 AltLd dog

Once it stopped raining we went for this. Should have looked from the ground as it was absolutely soaked. Mud in the crux jam and sopping like mad. Did all the moves after manning up though, reckon about 6b in that state. Shame, will definitely be back and do it properly!

Ed Babs 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P1, 2 & 3 together. Quality.

Hidden 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
atapper21 20/Aug/12 Lead RP

Had all the dreams of an on-sight but terrible tactics, the ascent was tried after a whole day of abuse. Better tactics for Strawberries!

Hidden 14/Aug/12 AltLd
Michael Allday 12/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

lead pt 1,3,4 bruce did second pitch. head wall is amazing what a cool climb

Bruce Houston ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Jay C 20/Jun/12 AltLd dnf
with Nick E
Nick Nitro 20/Jun/12 AltLd dnf

Sandbagged on second pitch. Very sustained and spaced gear. Quite a hard 5c.

with Jay C
Howard Lawledge 18/May/12 Lead
with Jack
gforce 16/May/12 AltLd
with Adrian
Hidden 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
zero six ?/May/12 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1-3 in one, led top pitch. Trem endous.

Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd dog
Hidden 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 2nd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 20/Nov/11 AltLd

1st and last pitch. Greased off the crux move due to the pocket being damp but then found an alternative way of doing it. Well protected and brilliant exposure.

with Gareth E
markalmack 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

P2,4 - black gunge and bats coming out of the top crack made it even more interesting. very good route.

with andy lole
HeatherF 29/Aug/11 AltLd dog

Seconded top pitch, watched Tom whip a few times, then assumed i wouldnt be able to do it! Might go another time

nathanlee 26/Aug/11 2nd O/S

amazing route

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 26/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Tom Livingstone 16/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Abbed off the Vector belay due to rain.

Glyn 14/Aug/11 2nd

One wet hold

lx 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with glyn
Dave Parton 22/Jul/11 AltLd
with Adam Ellwood
david morse 21/Jul/11 Lead rpt

One rest on the headwall pitch earlier this year. Happy to send it this time. 6c+

with willoates, andy psyche
schof 21/Jul/11 Lead β

pumpy and blind! flashed it on daves gear and still thought it was hard. the sidepulls seems to seep even after a bit of dry weather. 6c+ physically, 7a with a rack?

with will, northern dave
thomasadixon 10/Jul/11 AltLd dog

First pitches clean, then wussed the crux again...didn't back off though at least this time!

with Mike
AdrianP 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Only the headwall pitch..

with Olli
J.Wells 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 12/Jun/11 AltLd
Dave Foster 11/Jun/11 AltLd

Lead P1 and P3. One fall on pitch 4, loooong move to finger jug. Had feet in right place but just didn't pull hard enough. Good performance by Si, P2 is stiff as foyk for 5c and he got straight back on after a sizeable lob from crux of top pitch. Adventurous and a bit out there on headwall.

with Si 2
JasTaplin ?/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 20/May/11 AltLd
Dave Searle ?/May/11 Lead
centurion05 27/Apr/11 AltLd dog

one fall on last pitch, didn't really put that much effort in when going for the top finger lock, which was good. Fell below the foot rest, pulled up, rested on the foot rest then lead it clean to top. Great route!

with chris thorne
Duncan Campbell 14/Mar/11 AltLd

P1, dave did 2+3 together then I stepped up to the plate for p4. Got up to the rest then got a few good bits of gear up to the crux. Better sized cam was in the belay (tip: use the massive spike) so was worried about kicking it out and made a half-assed attempt at the crux, which i found quite blind. Dave then had a go with my gear in, put some more in and fell a move further! Awesome being on the headwall and great fun climbing! So steeep too! Gutted the onsight was blown but don't regret the day at all...I'll be back!

Adam Booth 04/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Ed led the two hardest pitches. I had to rest on the rope to get a nut out on the last pitch. Didn't get the bloody nut!

Ed Booth 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Pokey little crux. Just a couple of not such great holds...

Hidden 01/Mar/11 AltLd dog
Jack Loftus 01/Mar/11 AltLd dog
with Nick
Marcus ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
dts 06/Nov/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead
thomasadixon 16/Oct/10 2nd β

Lead up to the crux (thinking this was void somehow!) then bottled it and handed over to Mike, who neatly did the whole thing in about 10 mins. Last pitch only (first pitches of void).

with Mike
Brown 14/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with James T
Glyn 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Will Oates
willoates 11/Oct/10 AltLd β

p1 - Glyn p2 + 3 -me onsight p4- flashed after glyn abbed and stripped the gear. SOOOOO HAPPY!!!!

with Glyn
JulesV 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead dnf
beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead RP
with my uncle carl
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with michael porter
barni 27/May/10 2nd rpt

did the first three pitchs lead 2nd

with Comrad, luke
Alex Mason 10/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Creamed it.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 10/Feb/10 Lead β

quite easy either side of the short crux, cool climbing and sweet position

soph 01/Jan/10 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 -
with Helena Robinson
Luke Brooks ?/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Top pitch of Cream with first pitches of Void.

with Barni
titchbach 05/Oct/09 2nd
fennerz 03/Jul/09 Lead dnf

grrr top crack wet awesome 5c pitch, will come back...

Ed Booth 03/Jul/09 AltLd

had to down climb from the crux of last pitch as crux hold was wet and really want to do that pitch so will have to go back. Tom lead the 5c pitch.

with Fennerz
datoon 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with K
jkarran 13/Jun/09 AltLd dog

Fall on 5c pitch - physical and confusing moves, got it all wrong. Fall on 6a pitch - blind with migraine, hardly surprising. Generally a lame effort on an awesome and inspiring route.

with Aly
Ian Broome 13/Jun/09 AltLd

Al lead 2nd and 4th pitch(the hardest!), just managed to second the top pitch. Felt exposed way up there!

with Al, Grant
GrantB 13/Jun/09 2nd
Billg 03/May/09 Lead O/S

did the old version which gives a bold E3 pitch traversing in across the headwall (harder lead than the crack!)

with Owen Haywood
mr mills 18/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Gareth
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
cornishben 01/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Led the two easy pitches!

with Mike Raine
Hidden 16/May/08 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 14/May/08 AltLd

Hugh did first 3 pitches as 1. I did top pitch. Tremendous.

with Hugh
Hidden ??/2008 -
Julian Wedd ??/2008 AltLd
with D. Body
jeffmcd56 ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Rob
DavidEvans 28/Jul/07 AltLd

Led 1 (4c) and 3 (4c)

IOAN D 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with gareth
mr mills ??/2007 Lead O/S

top pitch, done the other pitches before !

with ioan d
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 16/Sep/06 Lead rpt

Warm up for Strawberries. Got into 2nd crack on that, then fell off. Dogged to the top, but didn't try again. F7c+/5.13a to put the gear in I reckon.

with Nic Sellers
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Mar/05 2nd dog
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden 04/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Aug/04 Lead
nige 30/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with dave kells
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
akhughes ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
steveb2006 02/Sep/00 Lead dog

Had hoped to do it cleanly this time but still forced to rest on the crux - oh well - still some great climbing incl the lower pitches

with Mike Pycroft
Jon Read ?/Jul/99 2nd
steveb2006 01/Aug/98 Lead RP

No easier than in 1987. 1 fall on crux but restarted from ledge - almost clean

with Mike Pycroft
Hidden 31/Mar/97 Lead O/S
D Tempest 07/Apr/96 AltLd

Missed last pitch due to the cold

with Rick
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
jfletcher 21/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
Nick Biven ??/1994 AltLd
with Rich Whitwell
Steve Crowe 01/Sep/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
crossleysm ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S
whispering nic ??/1992 -

top pitch linked from Void

with Graham Iles
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
with bernie bradbury
Neil R 27/May/90 2nd dog
with Ian
shark 16/May/90 Lead

top pitch

DDDD ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 13/May/89 AltLd
with Phil Baker
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1989 AltLd
with Bill Williamson
Bob 29/Aug/88 AltLd O/S

The crux is that pig awkward bulge.

with al phizacklea
Hidden 03/Jun/88 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/1988 Lead dog

Ran out of steam right at top of final pitch and took a rest. Also seconded after Atomic Finger Flake - see details

with John Robinson
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Bruce Kerr 26/Sep/87 Lead
with Murray Hamilton
steveb2006 09/Sep/87 AltLd

Andy leads the main pitch with one fall and rest

with Andy Towne
sadams 10/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
Mike Owen 31/Jan/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Mike Owen 12/Jul/86 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
shark 06/Sep/85 AltLd

Not a totally clean ascent !

with Seb Grieve
Hidden 17/May/85 2nd
mark mcgowan01 ?/May/85 Lead O/S
with Graham Harrison
andy gittins ??/1985 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Mark Kemball 16/Jun/84 2nd

Very frustrating - took 3 falls trying to lead it, then got it first go seconding.

with Willie Todd
keefe 20/Apr/84 -
Mike Owen 10/Mar/84 Lead rpt
with Doug Shaw
stp 13/Jun/83 AltLd

Lead pitch 4

Hidden ?/May/83 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S

Rain all day. I coaxed Geraldine out of the cafe do 'climb Vector Buttress'. Middle pitch was very easy but we were caught out in the gloom. I fell off once on the top pitch. Great route.

with Geraldine Taylor
andy gittins ??/1982 -
steve L 31/Jul/80 Lead O/S
with Jim Perrin
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 28/Apr/79 2nd β
with Joe Healey, Phil Davidson
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 39
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set