UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

A great problem. Start (standing) on the right arete of the Tilted Heart boulder and make a series of slappy, tenuous moves up until the left arete can be latched. A wonderful sequence.

Tom Rainbow.

Ticklists

Bovey Woods , Bovey Woods 3 Stars (F7A & Under)

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

8 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 5 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freddie Freeloader

Grade: f6C+ ***
(Hartland Quay)

Loading Notifications...