Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
An old classic up a series of slabs, corners and overhangs. Pitches 1 and 2 are easily linked together.1) 5b, 28m. Climb easily to a ledge. Move right along the ledge to its end before making bold moves up the wall to a peg. Traverse thinly right (peg) to eventually make a step down onto a ramp. Take the ramp to the overhang and stance. 2) 5b, 14m. This pitch has some poor rock. Traverse right into a hanging corner and climb strenuously up it to a thread. Move out right and up to a tree. Above is another tree and a good stance.3) 5a, 10m. Traverse left with difficulty before stepping down left on to a tiny exposed ledge. Finish up the juggy wall. © Rockfax
FA. Stuart Cathcart, P.Stott 13.10.80 13/Oct/1980.
Ticklists
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Eglwseg E2's
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Craig Arthur Girdle
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Arthur)