Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
A good airy upper half is preceded by a serious lower section. Start up broken ground and then move up to an overlap at the horizontal break. Pull through the overlap (poor peg), and push on carefully up the awkward wall to gain another peg. Easier moves gain the base of a scoop and much better rock and protection. Climb up the left wall of the scoop and exit with care. © Rockfax
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Tom Curtis 6.4.72 06/Apr/1972.
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Guidebooks for Craig Arthur
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Tearg Wall
Grade: E2 5c ***
(World's End)