Gwynedd > Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog) >
 
Venom** E3 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Pretzl Logic
 
Time Slip >>
The smooth groove gives a superb, technical bridging problem. 1) 6a, 15m. Stem up the groove and exit left to the Leg Slip stance. 2) 5b, 25m. Climb up and pull-through onto the wall above. This leads past a small roof to a rightwards traverse and easier ground. Belay below the top chimney of Nifl-Heim. 3) 5c, 15m. As for Pretzl Logic. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The Tremadog 'V's'.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 71 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Intended to do leg slip, but we didn't read the guidebook properly and did this instead. (It said it takes the obvious groove left of first slip...we didn't read it to see it says the obvious groove higher up the cliff, but sharing the same start as first slip!) I watched Brad struggle up the first pitch thinking he was making it look hard for 5a. When he was at the top I had a proper look at the guidebook and saw he's just done the venom groove. It was quite a brutal warm up on the calves, with one particularly hard move. Even at the top of the pitch Brad thought he'd just done the biggest sandbag 5a ever till I told him it was 6a! Decided we might as well finish the route off after we'd done the first pitch.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 22/May/13 with bradley reed

P1 only. Hard to read, had to hang a bit
Sardien - 2nd dog - 18/May/13 with Gwen Lancashire

Bt accident, thought it was the first pitch of Leg Slip. Thought this is hard for 5a, turned out it was 6a.
MikeLeeds - AltLd dnf - 05/May/13 with Kevin Bowser

fell off getting up to the peg, then YoYod it. Found it really hard to read... must practice this stuff more!
willoates - Lead RP - 26/Apr/13 with Dave Evans

Lead p1. Hard technical climbing but very well protected, just keep on trucking! P3 is also great! Well worth doing.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Owen Pearce, Rob Greenwood

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Sep/12

I lead first pitch and bruce lead 2and third in one
Michael Allday - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/12

Bruce Houston - AltLd - Jun/12 with Mike

Hidden - 18/May/12

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Ed Booth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12

p1 only. Nails!
david morse - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with todd

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

offroute - Lead - 03/Jul/11 with stuart lade

Awesome climbing. short but hard and technical
Glyn - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11 with Luke

Luke Brooks - AltLd rpt - 23/Jun/11 with Glyn Hudson

Just first pitch, if the groove was a bit longer it would be a 3* classic, but still technical and 'pressy' as grooves get, awesome!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/11 with Matt Burdican

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

very gd route. lead first
barni - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/10 with luke, long jon

Hidden - AltLd dog - 26/Sep/10

Hidden - Jun/10

simonp - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

en7edh - 2nd - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

Surprisingly good. Quality stemming. The finale to a very big day!
Rich Kirby - AltLd - 10/May/08 with Nige

nige - Lead - 10/May/08 with richard kirby

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2008 with Dave Evans

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Oct/07

IOAN D - Lead - 30/Apr/06 with gareth

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - Jun/04

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

Ched - TR - 1997

GuyM - 1996

and richard parry
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/95 with richard parry, steve ward

Richard White - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/94

second pitch only - in mistake for leg slip or first slip or whatever is around there
WB - AltLd O/S - 1994 with Guy

tlr - Lead - 10/Apr/92 with Pom

Bob - 1990

keefe - Jul/89 with Johnny Adams

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 25/Jul/88

cam1401 - Lead - Jul/87 with Graeme Johnson

sadams - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/87 with Guy Townsend

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - 1987 with John Adams

keefe - 15/Nov/86

steve taylor - AltLd - Jul/86 with Matt ????

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/86

John Marsland - 2nd - 02/Nov/85 with Dave Mould

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Aug/85

Hammy - Lead - 12/Jun/85 with Colin Struthers

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 25/Feb/85 with Nick MacFarlane

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1985

andy gittins - 1985

Pitch 1 only
Mark Kemball - Lead - 03/Mar/84 with Aamir Butt

neilh - 2nd - 28/Jun/83 with simon webster

nigehughes - 2nd - Sep/82 with Nick Sharpe

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/82

Ian Jones - Lead β - 1982 with Neil Molnar

andy gittins - 1982

Mike Owen - 14/Apr/81 with Dave Whitlow

Chris led the first pitch. I did the hard move first try but injured a finger on it (tendon). There is a sustained section above the crux. Luckily the rest of the route is a breeze.
Andy Stephenson - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/80 with Chris Plant

led pitch 1 and 2
David Smith - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1980

steve691 - 1979

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, jack1996

Voting
Total votes cast 39
hard E40 of 13
E40 of 13
easy E40 of 13
hard E35 of 13
E37 of 13
easy E31 of 13
hard E20 of 13
E20 of 13
easy E20 of 13
hard 6b0 of 14
6b0 of 14
easy 6b0 of 14
hard 6a6 of 14
6a8 of 14
easy 6a0 of 14
hard 5c0 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c0 of 14
3 Stars0 of 12
2 Stars11 of 12
1 Star1 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent

Lead22 of 71 (31.0%)
Followed10 of 71 (14.1%)
Toproped1 of 71 (1.4%)
Alt Leads19 of 71 (26.8%)
Unknown19 of 71 (26.8%)

'Climbed'48 of 71 (67.6%)
clean O/S17 of 71 (23.9%)
clean β1 of 71 (1.4%)
clean rpt1 of 71 (1.4%)
clean RP1 of 71 (1.4%)
dogged2 of 71 (2.8%)
dnf1 of 71 (1.4%)