Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
Fantastic technical climbing up the grey wall. Well protected with good wires and solid fixed protection. Pull powerfully around the lower bulge (bolt) to reach a thread. Move up and leftwards on tiny holds, passing a second bolt, and continue direct to a vague break and peg. Rock onto the break then tiptoe rightwards to a third bolt. Blind moves past this gain good holds and gear. Continue up easier ground to reach a shallow scoop and a final bolt, then move left above this with a long reach to the upper break (peg) and the lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 1.5.84, direct start and finish added by Lee Proctor 12.9.04 after the original start collapsed 01/May/1984.
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Heaven or Hell
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Craig Arthur)