Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
An adventurous mission up the huge face.1) 6a, 22m. Start by the smaller tree at the base of the wall. Move up from either side of the tree to gain a small groove (peg low on left) before moving up left again to better holds. Above is a large, semi-detached jammed block at the right-hand end of a long narrow overhang. Take a rightwards line to the block and use it to access the wall above (peg). The belay is a little higher in the horizontal break.2) 5c, 18m. Move right to the central groove and climb this to a capping roof. Pass the roof on the right and finish up the loose corner. © Rockfax
FA. Pat Littlejohn 13.4.84, direct start John Moulding, John Codling 29.9.87 13/Apr/1984.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Arthur
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Screaming Lord Sutch
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Monk's Buttress)