The second pitch of Friday is brilliant, it takes in one of the few proper lines on Clwyd at about HVS 5b. There is a nice well protected crack, then some spacewalking below the capping roof but on juggy holds. The finish is up an easy crack but care is required passing a dangerously loose flake.
For someone operating at HVS a more adventurous start would be ab direct in to the mid height belay.
The mid height belay can also be reached by any of the other climbs on the face.
MikeYouCanClimb - 02/Dec/13