Gwynedd > Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog) >
 
Leg Slip** E1 5b

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Another fine groove climb with technical climbing and superb positions. Start below the prominent groove on the right of the buttress. 1) 5a, 15m. Climb the groove and escape left below the top roof onto the top of a sloping ramp. 2) 5b, 25m. Pull through the roof above into a fine groove. Bridge up this, moving right onto a rib then back left. Continue up the groove moving left around a roof onto easy ground. Tree belay above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 316 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

P2 only
Sardien - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Gwen Lancashire

Hidden - AltLd - 18/May/13

Simon Merrall - 2nd - 16/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13

MikeLeeds - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Kevin Bowser

I led first pitch, fell once at start but then led clean from the bottom. Fell once on second on crux of top pitch
Fiona McFarlane - AltLd - 01/May/13 with Robert Dufton

RD P2
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 01/May/13 with Fiona

Lead 2nd pitch. Rather wet on quite a few key holds - made it a bit more spicy.
eduardo - AltLd rpt - 27/Apr/13 with Mark H

JCAshman - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 13/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13

Lead p1.
r fizzle - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Chi Huo Cheng

Lead P2.
Chi Cheng - AltLd - 02/Mar/13 with Rachel Stater

Hidden - 2013

Lead P2. I'd wanted to do this route for ages. It was every bit as good as I'd hoped. A commiting overhang, technial groove and tricky finish. Great climbing.
JezH - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Stu Burbigde

Great varied climb.
Stuart_Burbidge - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Jez Hawksworth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/12

Led top pitch
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Tom R

Lizzie S - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/12

frume - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12

Tom Doldon - AltLd - 19/May/12 with sam simpson 48

Tom Doldon - AltLd - 19/May/12 with sam simpson 48

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/12

nic42 - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with ric m

Hidden - Lead - May/12

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/12

Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with ah

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Anita Grey

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/12

Top groove wet beneath overhang, pulled on friend to make move left.
Abi Chard - Lead dog - 18/Mar/12 with Ian

Led P1 which is hard at the start. P2 is tough 5b... deserves E1 overall i think!
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Ian Moore

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Owen_P - 2012

first pitch only due to lots of water running down the next part of the route.
adam06 - Lead - 13/Nov/11 with Will Points

Hard E1 I thought, good lead by Chris! Lead P1.
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Chris

for a laff
Tom Livingstone - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with Chirs Carroll, owain

Beefy 5b moves, especially reaching the belay...go left at the top! also...how the is this hvs 5a? mental!
chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Livingbone, Owain

sustained 5b
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with S.Bennett

Adam Lincoln - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Meg

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/11

I was really pleased to second this, the opposite of what I'm comfy with (other than grade) stepping out round the aretes from under the roof was tough, rocking onto a smear was also tough. headed off to an Ab point before the finish of the climb due to inclement weather but bulk done.
puppythedog - 2nd β - 31/Jul/11 with Al

offroute - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with stuart lade

pbphil169 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/11

Gets E1 5b in a couple of guides. How can this and The Plum be the same grade?!
Andrew Barker - 2nd - 04/Jun/11 with Si

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 02/Jun/11 with Tom

Failed to lead crux pitch. Poor gear and slippy. PN found crafty peenut placement at step back into groove. Exit at roof reachy.
egg-man - 2nd - 02/Jun/11 with Pete Nugent

tomdude - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with rob

Led p1, seemed to tough to get established in the groove at the start. GP lowered off p2 from the step back into the upper groove. I found a Peenut (prob Peenut 3) was useful to protect this move & a Camalot 0.4 upside down in a slot protected the final move left to the belay. E1 5b
Pete Nugent - Lead dog - 01/Jun/11 with Graham Phillips

tomjagger - AltLd O/S - Jun/11

E1 5b
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11 with Gav Singleton

john lynch - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11 with simon smith

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/May/11

Led 1st pitch then Katy belayed halfway up 2nd pitch so ended up leading the crux as well.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 11/May/11 with Katy Vose

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 09/May/11 with Dave Morse

david morse - 2nd O/S - 09/May/11 with Glyn+Alex (Romania)

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 08/May/11 with hugh

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - May/11

Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Uber Mike

Led P2. Found it hard for the grade but probably due to the style - bridging with no hand holds
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with GarethHall

Pitch 1
GarethHall - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Roslyn McKendry

offroute - 28/Mar/11

myoung - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Heather

Found it quite awkward in the top groove, guess its early in the season. I would say E1 rather than HVS
hetaher - 28/Mar/11 with Mark

Excellent recommendation from Richard. Sensational positions on P2 going up the initial groove and them moving out onto the arete, with a sting in the tail in the form of a technical bridging corner and swing round an arete. This is now E1 5b (Richard said there used to be a tree in the bridging corner which made things easier). Led P2.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Richard

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/11 with sarp

1st
barni - AltLd rpt - 16/Feb/11 with luke

I_hang_dog - 2nd O/S - Feb/11

Led P1. E1 5b in Tremadog guide.
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with hugh

Rory Shaw - 2011

Tim Sparrow - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

katyvose1 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

bsmedz - 2011

Hidden - 2011

led top half of p1 and p2. p2 was preeetty wet but i managed to battle through, tried to go out to the arete early and got scared, then reversed, got read the description, went up and did the real finish with a cheeky cut-loose! tough in the wet, crucial holds were out of use espeially on the first groove, and damp on the 2nd groove section. I'd say it was probably E1 in the dry, tough E1 maybe soft E2 in the wet, probably did a 5c move or two on the bottom groove.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/10 with ruth medic

P2 Wicked moves avoiding the wet holds :)
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/10 with Dan with the van

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/10 with AO

crag_monster - AltLd - 16/Oct/10 with Leo

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with ben smedley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/10

Heavily rained after the 1st pitch, slipped off midway through the second
melonmike - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/10 with Matt Roper, Jack Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10

Fine route.....E1!
Guy Wilson - AltLd - 01/Aug/10 with Byron Buck

HVS my arse
Byronius Maximus - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Guy Wilson

I got the crux pitch and loved it but found it all pretty absorbing.
Stumpyham - AltLd - 29/Jul/10 with jake

Stumpyham - AltLd - 29/Jul/10 with jake

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 25/Jul/10

Ed Feldman - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Harry

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/10

Lenny - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/10 with Tony

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jun/10

RachelP - 2nd - 06/Jun/10 with Andy T

Dave Reeve - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Steve Hordley

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with GF

Technical, a few tenuous moves but brilliant .
mynyddresident - AltLd - 16/May/10 with geraint

Led 1st pitch
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 07/May/10 with Chris Sims

chris sm - AltLd O/S - 07/May/10 with Ben Sutton

Vince McNally - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with Dan H

JulesV - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with Shauna Cunningham

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 02/May/10 with Jules

Hidden - AltLd dog - 18/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 13/Apr/10

P1
ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 13/Apr/10 with Steve Joynson

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/10

mrtom - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Mike Stephenson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

simeclimb68 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

alasdair19 - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

soph - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/09

Led 5a pitch.
eugeneth - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Gareth Buckley

barni - AltLd rpt - 15/Sep/09 with Liam fleming

offroute - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/09 with barni

pitch 1.
mr mills - AltLd rpt - 05/Sep/09 with Gareth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/09

2nd pitch
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/09

Led p2. Wierd moves on p1 and found p2 a bit of a technical calf pumper :) Given E1 these days, worth it imo
AJM - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/09 with Tom Lambert, Tom Stedall

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/09

shane54 - Lead O/S - Aug/09

simon_williams6 - 2nd β - 29/Jul/09

khawk - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/09 with DT

datoon - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with K

martrin - Lead - 19/Jun/09 with Sarah Kekus

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/09

mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 10/May/09 with Pete Harrison

mikelaing - AltLd - May/09 with Ian

Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Ben Alsford

Hidden - Lead - 18/Apr/09

Beautiful hot sunny day. Colin led the first pitch -this had a tricky start to a groove. I led the second. It was sustained and difficult. I was mighty relieved to get a high can in and then reach up left and then swarm round and up to finish. Immediately went to Erics for a brew and met Dave and Liz and Ian and Abi across for the day and Ann and Trish who had just done Poor Man's Pueteray. Superb day.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Colin Maddison

Second Pitch, found hard for grade (of E1)!
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/09 with Guy VG

first pitc, E1.
GuyVG - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/09 with Al Mason

Brown - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with John

Seymore Butt - 2009

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/08 with ramsey

2nd pitch
galpinos - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/08 with Ben

Hidden - 22/Aug/08

the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/08 with chris lycett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/08

popov86 - AltLd - 18/Mar/08

sonnenstern - AltLd - 09/Mar/08 with Andy Marshall

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2008 with Dave Evans

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

tumbling wizard - 2008

tumbling wizard - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 22/Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/07

Carly - AltLd - 19/Oct/07 with james

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Sep/07

Luke Brooks - AltLd - 08/Sep/07 with Rob Grant

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Barni

scorky345 - AltLd - Sep/07 with Owen Pearce

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/07

Nice balancy route up the groove.
Morgan Woods - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Gareth

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Clio

Clee - 2nd β - 26/Aug/07 with Steve

michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 25/Aug/07 with mike doyle

Gavin 1st pitch (5a), Me 2nd pitch (5b) Gets E1 5b in the CC definitive guide and the new Ground Up selected guide
Mark A Humphries - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07 with Gavin

steve taylor - 17/Jun/07

Mike led the proper (2nd) pitch, which was excellent, but full-on considering it's mainly out of sight of the belay. I led P1, which wasn't totally trivial
Siderunner - 2nd O/S - 05/May/07 with Mike P

got lost ended up on venom
Benjones45_99 - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with Borg, Sam Cookson

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/07 with Heddwyn

Heddwyn - 2nd - 21/Feb/07 with Dan

Rob Kennard - 2007

2nd
barni - AltLd - 2007 with Glyn

five - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/06 with JT

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/06

Got the route right this time,but seconded pitch 2.
ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 09/Feb/06 with Phil Taggart

leathers - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2006

ArnaudG - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 2006

ChrisJD - Lead - 17/Sep/05 with Alex

Went off route on second pitch from top of groove and ended up at the tree of First Slipwith minimum gear placements.
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/05 with Ritchie Griffiths

michael burrows - AltLd - 14/Jun/05 with mike doyle

Simon Palmer - May/05 with Colin Riggs

abercolin - AltLd - May/05 with Simon Palmer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/04

Hidden - 07/Apr/04

paul m hadley - Lead - 2004

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/03 with Neil Northrop

Owen W-G - 2nd - 29/Aug/03 with Dan & Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/03

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - Apr/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/02

akhughes - Lead - Jan/02 with Steptoe

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 2002 with Jo Bertalot

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/01

Thought this was desperate! Felt like 5c!
Ian Jones - Lead rpt - Jul/01 with Karen Ghiselli

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/00 with John Marston

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/98 with Iain Boardman

frost - AltLd - Jul/98 with M Pritchard

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Feb/98

Si Clapham - 1998

Hidden - Oct/97

liabilityliz - AltLd - 26/Jul/97 with Nick Dixon

Having been caught out by dark at end of P2 with cash a year or so earlier
babymoac - AltLd - 12/Jul/97 with Chris F

michael burrows - AltLd - 02/Mar/97 with brian jones

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

neilh - AltLd - Apr/96 with dave croker

GuyM - 1996

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/95

Budge - AltLd O/S - 1995 with Rod Gritten

nai - AltLd - 1995

Richard White - 1995

belay bunny turned bad - 1995

rob.grafton - Lead - 1995 with Ben, Bruce

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/93

Budge - Lead O/S - 1993 with Pete Stockton

Pete_Frost - Lead O/S - 1993 with Chris Tym, Judy Ling Wong

andrew300169 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/92 with Pom

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Feb/92

WB - 1992

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Mar/91

andrew300169 - AltLd - 1991 with Pom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/90

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/90 with KM

Bob - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - 1990

cam1401 - AltLd - 1990

alan moore - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 02/Sep/89

ChrisJD - Lead - 29/Oct/88

Hidden - 29/Aug/88

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/88

mark-abz - AltLd - 01/May/88 with Andy W

seconded Ian on 2 routes near Grim Wall. Probably this one
stevieb - 2nd O/S - May/88 with Ian Pickles

steve taylor - AltLd - May/87 with mike murphy

ChrisJD - Lead - 07/Feb/87

Hidden - AltLd - 1987

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/86 with brian jones

neil3965 - Lead - 1986 with Russ Leaper

Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 14/Sep/85 with Brian Harley

Tim Bateman - AltLd - 26/May/85 with Dave Leadbetter

malc - AltLd - 04/May/85

Hidden - AltLd - 04/May/85

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1985

andy gittins - 1985

sadams - AltLd - 19/Aug/84 with Chris Thwaites

AlanLittle - AltLd - Feb/83 with Simon Catterall

AlanLittle - AltLd - 1983

nigehughes - Lead - Oct/82 with Alec Pirrie

John Marsland - AltLd - 13/Mar/82 with Ian Stopforth

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1982

andy gittins - 1982

Falko - AltLd O/S - 01/May/80 with Chris Astill (Shilling Rabbit)

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/80

Hammy - AltLd - 04/Apr/80 with Tony Mitchell

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Hidden - 1980

Kafoozalem - Lead dog - 12/Apr/79 with John Baily

steve691 - 1979

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 15/Aug/78 with Jonathan Lagoe

Hidden - Lead - 1978

Hidden - 1978

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Dec/77

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/77

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 31/Jul/77 with George Hounsome

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/77

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1977 with Will Walker

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 13/Nov/76 with Ian Milward

Seemed easy then.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Jul/76 with Mike Newton

Mike Owen - 22/Feb/76 with John Roberts

Hidden - AltLd - 1976

ian caton - Lead O/S - 1976

Andy lead the first pitch, I did the second. We each agreed that we were glad that we hadn't had to lead the other's pitch.
Jan Witkowski - AltLd O/S - Jun/75 with Andy Wooton

pneame - May/75

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 02/Mar/75 with Peter Boardman

petemeads - Lead - 1975

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

greenbuoy - AltLd - 30/May/71 with Bob Lister, Terry Taylor

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/70 with Tim James

Tom V - 1970

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jezb1, Hidden, Hidden, Ross.Cooper, arandall, Graham C, jandyd05, ben360, Katex, Sebastien Gastaud, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ralfy, Mike H, Mike Parker, a_radiohead_fan, TRNovice

Voting
Total votes cast 102
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard E11 of 16
E111 of 16
easy E11 of 16
hard HVS3 of 16
HVS0 of 16
easy HVS0 of 16
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
hard 5b0 of 16
5b14 of 16
easy 5b2 of 16
hard 5a0 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
3 Stars38 of 70
2 Stars29 of 70
1 Star3 of 70
0 Stars0 of 70
Bag of .....0 of 70
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 316 (0.3%)
Lead69 of 316 (21.8%)
Followed31 of 316 (9.8%)
Alt Leads153 of 316 (48.4%)
Unknown62 of 316 (19.6%)

'Climbed'164 of 316 (51.9%)
clean O/S132 of 316 (41.8%)
clean β3 of 316 (0.9%)
clean rpt11 of 316 (3.5%)
dogged6 of 316 (1.9%)