Another fine groove climb with technical climbing and superb positions. Start below the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the buttress.
1) 5a, 15m. Make a tricky move to gain the groove and climb it to where you can escape left below the top roof onto the top of a sloping ramp and belay.
2) 5b, 30m. Move left then back right and pull through the roof above into a fine groove. Bridge up this, moving right onto a rib then back left. Continue up the groove moving left around a roof onto easy ground. Tree belay above. Abseil off. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Accidently started up Nifl-heim, then Tom found his way over to the start of the crux pitch of Leg slip, and he also led that, fun adventure up the crag though!
first pitch is harder than the second imo
Led both pitches. Great climbing. Last climb of day so finished in evening light. First moves on P1 and last moves on P2 trickiest for me
Never too hard
got rained off the other day so the first pitch was ground up but second pitch onsight. found the corner groove quite sustained with a hard top move.
Really good route, found the top crux really hard and quite committing
|Tom Livingstone||07/Feb||2nd rpt||
Karen McIntyre, Niels Ernst-Williams
|Wendy Watthews||??/2015||2nd β||
Backed of the last move of the first pitch, went back to the ground and seconded Chris up the whole route
only climbed pitch 2 Brian Mead leading
|Albert Exley||15/Nov/14||Lead O/S|
Hard enough crux at the very top - which done at last light made for a memerable experience! Will seconded with a head touch
Phil, Will Taylor
Mike led P1, me P2. I found getting off the block into the corner by far the hardest move on P2. Getting out leftwards from the top of the corner which is apparently the crux wasn't nearly as bad.
|Andy Clarke||13/Sep/14||AltLd O/S||
A high quality route of sustained interest with a tough finish. A historic day: Dale completed his quest to climb all the 2 & 3 star Tremadog E1s, but mercifully held back the tears. Led P1.
My last two star E1 at tremadog and it really deserves it. Quality climbing Sustained 5b sections with a hard 5b move at the top where it should be. A WOOP when I got to the top. I feel happy I have done every 2 and 3 star E1 at tremadog but also a little upset.
|will moy||23/Aug/14||AltLd O/S|
Did this years ago, but have virtually no memory of it, so I'm taking the onsight! First pitch - Hol; 2nd pitch - me.
|Phill Mitch||24/Jun/14||AltLd O/S|
found top pitch tough. thin footholds on face, but good gear throughout.
Top pitch, retroflash having seconded as a novice 11ys ago, was wet here and there include under top roof, got gripped and worried, felt hard but first lead of trip
Followed up the first pitch and then led the second pitch. In a word: Terrifying! Just leaving the first belay was bad enough, and then the moves up the groove were really comitting on lead. I backed off several times and had a good talk to myself at the small rest at the bottom before I committed. As I made the move out of the groove I looked down and saw half my gear had pulled out of the marginal placements and was just dangling there.
|Charlie Zephyr Booth||??/2014||Lead O/S||
|Ewan Russell||10/Nov/13||AltLd O/S||
Great route. One of the best e1's at tremadog.
Great route, great weather, great time. The traverse is outstanding on P1, and there are some sweet moves and positions on P2. Miles better than many 3* routes at Tremadog...
Lead P1. First HVS. No trouble, great pitch.
|Samuel Wainwright||19/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Laura Prul, Emma Smith
Class route. First pitch quality, but slightly blemished by grassy slope (hence only 2 stars). 2nd pitch awesome and pretty stiff at the grade. Fantastic positions.
Lead 1st Pitch
I can understand why this route is called Leg Slip. Well above the grade I would lead myself. Scary traverse rightwards from the groove.
Led P1 (tough start), P2 (superb)
Soft but good
First pitch led.
James Oakes, Andy mumc
|Hardcore Pat||26/May/13||AltLd O/S||
Sir William of pettitsmith
|James Oakes||25/May/13||2nd O/S||
Andy Hall, Tim Slater
I led first pitch, fell once at start but then led clean from the bottom. Fell once on second on crux of top pitch
Led 2nd pitch. Rather wet on quite a few key holds - made it a bit more spicy.
|Rachel Somerville||30/Mar/13||AltLd O/S||
|Rachel Slater||02/Mar/13||AltLd O/S||
Great varied climb.
Led top pitch
|Lizzie S||23/Jul/12||2nd O/S|
|Sam Simpson||19/May/12||AltLd O/S|
sam simpson 48
sam simpson 48
|Stone Muppet||15/Apr/12||Lead O/S||
|Abi Chard||18/Mar/12||Lead dog||
Top groove wet beneath overhang, pulled on friend to make move left.
Led P1 which is hard at the start. P2 is tough 5b... deserves E1 overall i think!
first pitch only due to lots of water running down the next part of the route.
Hard E1 I thought, good lead by Chris! Lead P1.
for a laff
Beefy 5b moves, especially reaching the belay...go left at the top! also...how the is this hvs 5a? mental!
|Ollie B||15/Oct/11||AltLd O/S||
|Adam Lincoln||28/Aug/11||AltLd O/S|
I was really pleased to second this, the opposite of what I'm comfy with (other than grade) stepping out round the aretes from under the roof was tough, rocking onto a smear was also tough. headed off to an Ab point before the finish of the climb due to inclement weather but bulk done.
Gets E1 5b in a couple of guides. How can this and The Plum be the same grade?!
Failed to lead crux pitch. Poor gear and slippy. PN found crafty peenut placement at step back into groove. Exit at roof reachy.
|Pete Nugent||01/Jun/11||Lead dog||
Led p1, seemed to tough to get established in the groove at the start. GP lowered off p2 from the step back into the upper groove. I found a Peenut (prob Peenut 3) was useful to protect this move & a Camalot 0.4 upside down in a slot protected the final move left to the belay. E1 5b
|Jim Slater||28/May/11||AltLd O/S||
|john lynch||28/May/11||AltLd O/S||
Led 1st pitch then Katy belayed halfway up 2nd pitch so ended up leading the crux as well.
|david morse||09/May/11||2nd O/S||
Led P2. Found it hard for the grade but probably due to the style - bridging with no hand holds
Found it quite awkward in the top groove, guess its early in the season. I would say E1 rather than HVS
Excellent recommendation from Richard. Sensational positions on P2 going up the initial groove and them moving out onto the arete, with a sting in the tail in the form of a technical bridging corner and swing round an arete. This is now E1 5b (Richard said there used to be a tree in the bridging corner which made things easier). Led P2.
Led P1. E1 5b in Tremadog guide.
|Duncan Campbell||20/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
led top half of p1 and p2. p2 was preeetty wet but i managed to battle through, tried to go out to the arete early and got scared, then reversed, got read the description, went up and did the real finish with a cheeky cut-loose! tough in the wet, crucial holds were out of use espeially on the first groove, and damp on the 2nd groove section. I'd say it was probably E1 in the dry, tough E1 maybe soft E2 in the wet, probably did a 5c move or two on the bottom groove.
|The Green Giant||19/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
P2 Wicked moves avoiding the wet holds :)
Dan with the van
Heavily rained after the 1st pitch, slipped off midway through the second
Matt Roper, Jack Metcalfe
|Byronius Maximus||01/Aug/10||AltLd O/S||
HVS my arse
I got the crux pitch and loved it but found it all pretty absorbing.
|dan gibson||25/Jul/10||Solo O/S|
|Dave Reeve||02/Jun/10||AltLd O/S||
|Jessie Rushbrooke||30/May/10||Lead O/S||
Technical, a few tenuous moves but brilliant .
Led 1st pitch
|chris sm||07/May/10||AltLd O/S|
|3 Names||02/May/10||Lead O/S||
|Rob Pitt||16/Apr/10||2nd O/S||
Led 5a pitch.
|Liam FLeming||15/Sep/09||AltLd O/S||
|mr mills||05/Sep/09||AltLd rpt||
|metal arms||09/Aug/09||AltLd O/S||
Led p2. Wierd moves on p1 and found p2 a bit of a technical calf pumper :) Given E1 these days, worth it imo
Tom Lambert, Tom Stedall
|Mike Goldthorp||26/Apr/09||AltLd O/S||
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||12/Apr/09||AltLd O/S||
Beautiful hot sunny day. Colin led the first pitch -this had a tricky start to a groove. I led the second. It was sustained and difficult. I was mighty relieved to get a high can in and then reach up left and then swarm round and up to finish. Immediately went to Erics for a brew and met Dave and Liz and Ian and Abi across for the day and Ann and Trish who had just done Poor Man's Pueteray. Superb day.
|Alex Mason||17/Mar/09||AltLd O/S||
Second Pitch, found hard for grade (of E1)!
first pitc, E1.
|Morgan Woods||27/Aug/07||Lead O/S||
Nice balancy route up the groove.
|Different Steve||26/Aug/07||Lead O/S|
|michael burrows||25/Aug/07||AltLd rpt|
|Mark A Humphries||29/Jul/07||AltLd O/S||
Gavin 1st pitch (5a), Me 2nd pitch (5b) Gets E1 5b in the CC definitive guide and the new Ground Up selected guide
Mike led the proper (2nd) pitch, which was excellent, but full-on considering it's mainly out of sight of the belay. I led P1, which wasn't totally trivial
got lost ended up on venom
Borg, Sam Cookson
|Dan 85||21/Feb/07||Lead O/S|
|Ed Booth||31/May/06||AltLd O/S||
Wish i had remembered to move right on to the rib from the groove as i ended up doing some weird quarryman groove contortion to go up it direct with crap gear below me! was a cool experience though!
Got the route right this time,but seconded pitch 2.
Went off route on second pitch from top of groove and ended up at the tree of First Slipwith minimum gear placements.
|paul m hadley||??/2004||Lead|
Dan & Jim
|Just Another Dave||??/2002||Lead O/S||
|Ian Jones||?/Jul/01||Lead rpt||
Thought this was desperate! Felt like 5c!
|Derek Ryden||13/May/00||AltLd rpt||
|zero six||??/2000||Lead O/S|
|Paul Boardman||30/Aug/98||AltLd O/S||
|Chris Reid||10/Apr/98||Lead O/S|
Having been caught out by dark at end of P2 with cash a year or so earlier
|Southern Mark Smith||??/1995||-|
|belay bunny turned bad||??/1995||-|
Chris Tym, Judy Ling Wong
|Steve Crowe||27/Aug/90||Lead O/S||
Only one hard move but made for a tough HVS!
|Mike Owen||24/Apr/88||2nd rpt||
|Mike Owen||13/Sep/87||Solo rpt|
|Mike Owen||31/Jan/87||2nd rpt||
|michael burrows||27/Apr/86||AltLd O/S||
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||14/Sep/85||AltLd||
Chris Astill (Shilling Rabbit)
|Mike Owen||29/Apr/79||2nd rpt||
John Roberts, Brian Jones
First Welsh extreme but HVS when we climbed it!
|steve L||22/Jan/77||AltLd O/S|
|Ian Jones||?/Jul/76||Lead O/S||
Seemed easy then.
|Derek Ryden||??/1976||AltLd O/S||
|ian caton||??/1976||Lead O/S|
|Jan Witkowski||?/Jun/75||AltLd O/S||
Andy lead the first pitch, I did the second. We each agreed that we were glad that we hadn't had to lead the other's pitch.
Bob Lister, Terry Taylor
|Gordon Stainforth||13/Aug/70||AltLd O/S||
Fell off leading top pitch and sprained ankle slightly.
First time in 1960s, perhaps 2nd to Dave Yates.Led 4/5/81 with George Wilson and had lead it before. Several times since on the lead - once with Dave Booth