Gwynedd > Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog) >
 
First Slip** E1 5c

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[Caught in the act ! , 4 kb]The right-hand Slip is even more technical. 1) 5c, 35m. As for Leg Slip but move right at the top of the groove to gain a ledge at the base of the beautiful upper groove. Climb this with sustained interest to good ledge. 2) 4b, 12m. Easy climbing leads up the arete and rough ground to a tree belay. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Stared Tremadog E1's.

Photo: Caught in the act ! © boje
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 274 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Excellent line. Technically tough for 5c especially as head right on traverse and then topping out the following groove. Gear good but deserves E2 as moves hard.
climberchristy - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/14 with Ben Cole

jon22 - AltLd - 15/Aug/14 with Dave Holland

Led main pitch, nails hard for E1 but good gear every two feet
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/14 with Paul

Tried to lead but hangover-head failed to commit to the traverse (I also missed some high gear to protect it from above). Thankfully Helena took over and I seconded the main pitch instead. Hard but cool moves
Sardien - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Helena Robinson

Took me a while to figure out that top move! But when committed it felt fine. Great route.
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/14 with davenev

davenev - 18/Jul/14 with luke

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14

Dan Vaj - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/14 with James Machaffie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

M_Robinson - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/14 with DanielGyi

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/13

redjerry - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/13 with Danny

amazing tecnical climbing on small foot holds
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd - 24/Aug/13 with Simon huges

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with helen gibson

hard!! tried bridging the top but slipped, did some technical moves up on the right which worked for me.
Helen Gibson - 2nd - 24/Jul/13 with dan

danp - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/13

mr mills - AltLd rpt - 08/Jul/13 with paul simkiss

R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Matt Crawford

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

Kevster - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Will T

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/13

In one pitch.
James Oakes - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Andy Hall, Tim Slater

Got rope stuck, despite precautions, so had to down climb hanging groove to sort it. Still onsight!
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with ah

tsl42 - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with James Oakes, Andy mumc

greenclimb - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with Sarah

Hard for E1. Lots of 5c.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Andy Morris

Very thin and techy in the groove, good lead by Si
AJM - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Simon de Haas

Nick Biven - 2013

tim20 - 2013

pie_eater_pete - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with bwestwood

bwestwood - AltLd - 08/Sep/12 with pete sargeant

1st
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/12 with Alec

APRS - AltLd - 30/Aug/12 with Ewan Russell

mike lawrence? - 2nd - 24/Aug/12 with FatRob

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/12

frume - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

Cardi - 2nd O/S - 14/May/12 with Gwen

Lead P1.
Dave Foster - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Si 2

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12

Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 31/Mar/12 with Piers Nesbitt

Ed F - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/12 with job

pissed wet through at the bottom, didnt expect that groove up there, great feature, great climb
hilty - AltLd - 11/Feb/12 with Adam coles

Hidden - AltLd dog - 11/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Owen_P - 2012

first crux, 5b. Second crux thin 5c! good lead livingbone you chopper!
chriscarroll - 2nd - 16/Oct/11 with Livingbone

hard for E1. very damp initial crack til through the roof (dripping on head) and sketchy moves up the groove to a hard looong reach for the ledge.
benkelsey - Lead - 16/Oct/11

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Chris Carroll

adam06 - AltLd - 09/Oct/11 with Ryan

Clay C - AltLd dog - 25/Sep/11 with James O

Found this very hard, pushed me to the limit of what I currently feel I can lead. Well protected the whole way (LOTS of small wires) and gets harder as it goes. Lots of 5a, then a 5b traverse (after asking Clay to give me his small wires too!), then sustained 5b for 8 metres or so. Then one (or two?) 5c moves which required high bridging using small footholds. One of my favourite leads so far, a pity you have to climb some crap pitches to get out! Amazing.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Clay

Katex - 2nd - 14/Sep/11 with Neil, Mike

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11

Led the easy 4b top pitch
andy mcc - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Robin Nicholson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/11

Misha - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Mike D

MD - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/11 with Misha

neil led 5c pitch, wet and slippy, dodgy all the way. i led last pitch which took about 3 mins!
steveleahy - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Neil Davies

myoung - AltLd - 07/Aug/11 with Mat E, Tom Sampson

Hidden - Lead - Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/11

I lead first pitch, Roz lead pitch 2
3 Names - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Roslyn Mckendry

P1 would have been pretty harrowing and insecure to lead. I led the easy top pitch.
givemetea - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Vince

I led P1, Chris P2
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Chris Allan

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 31/May/11

Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 28/May/11 with Gavlar

A 3 star E2 5c
david morse - AltLd O/S - 09/May/11 with Glyn+Alex (Romania)

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 09/May/11 with Dave Morse

Hidden - 2nd - May/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with tony (army)

Liam FLeming - 28/Mar/11

dswansonlow - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/11 with sarp

duncandarnell - Mar/11

sarpedon - Lead O/S - Feb/11

Thought the bit under the roof was meant to be the crux, top groove kept me on my toes.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Aaron

Led p2. Pitch 1 very good value!
Dizz - AltLd - 22/Jan/11 with hugh

Rory Shaw - 2011

Tim Sparrow - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Led 2nd pitch to the abseil point. The abseil was very dangerous with lots of loose rock and mud!
al99 - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/10 with Andrew Bitmead

jparry75 - Lead - Sep/10 with emlyn

Technically the hardest route climbed this summer.
clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/10 with Anna

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/10

Kev - pitch 1; me - pitch 2. Fell off midway up the top corner/groove. Foot popped off a smear!
DavidR - AltLd dog - 18/Aug/10 with Kevin Bowser

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Aug/10

Dazzlin - 2nd - 14/Aug/10 with Ross Davidson

soph - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Dan McManus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/10

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/10 with Tony

John Pickles - AltLd - 20/Apr/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Rob Pitt - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Stu Stanley

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 14/Mar/10

led easy 2nd pitch. hard smeary climbing on p1!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/10 with Bubbles

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

Pete Graham - Lead - 06/Mar/10 with James Fleming

nutallovertheface - AltLd O/S - Mar/10 with Ben

lead 2nd pitch,
liam 22 - AltLd O/S - Mar/10

mr mills - 2010 with Elfyn (chang)

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

simeclimb68 - 2010

DuckingFesperate - 2010

Hidden - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

soph - 2010

barni - AltLd rpt - 15/Sep/09 with Liam fleming

Liam FLeming - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/09 with barni

Hidden - Lead - Aug/09

Desperatly hard and sustained towards the top. Thank god for the foot rest below the crux. Hard in the grade!
shane54 - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Eetu - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Olli

cem - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Mark O'Neill

Lead main pitch, wonderfully technical route with good gear where its needed. Take plenty of small wires
Glyn - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/09 with Zion

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jan/09

Owen_P - Lead O/S - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

I'd give this E2, very technical.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 01/Nov/08

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/08 with Andy

Brown - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Max

lukea - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Al

Sgt. Vest - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/08 with Andy Davies

tumbling wizard - Jun/08

kieranrex - 31/May/08 with Matthew Burdekin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08

Hidden - 2nd RP - 06/Apr/08

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2008 with A. Howarth

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Oct/07

one of my first 5C pitches. excelent route. 5B move under the overhang to get to the groove then sustained 5C up that groove just caught the top.
Dale - AltLd O/S - Oct/07 with johny

the juicy dangler - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/07 with rob greenwood

Luke Brooks - AltLd - 12/Aug/07 with Rob Grant

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/07

Fell off 2ft from the top of the 1st pitch - well gutted - then breezed it
MikeT - AltLd dog - Jun/07 with GE

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with Deg Bolger

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/07

Rachael Barlow - 2nd - 24/Mar/07 with Pete Robins

Dan 85 - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/07 with Tim

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

1 st
barni - AltLd - 2007 with lucy

Very enjoyable. Good protection where it counts.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 03/May/06 with Dad

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jan/06

Hidden - 2006

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Lead both pitches
ritchierich - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/05 with Ritchie Griffiths

IOAN D - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with gareth

Iggy_B - Lead O/S - May/05 with Fred - DMM

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

VPJB - 2005

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - Jun/04

samwelli - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/04 with Steve Hobbs

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/04

paul m hadley - Lead - 2004

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/03

IanD353 - Lead O/S - Mar/03 with Ailsa

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 2003

akhughes - Lead - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/02

michael burrows - Lead - 23/Jun/02 with ket

nickdonohue - AltLd - Jun/02 with Simon Vallance

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 2002

Hidden - 16/Jul/00

Paul-Michael - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/00 with Nick Hanie, Dave Gun

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

DubyaJamesDubya - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1999

WB - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/98 with Nicola

Joe Solo - Lead O/S - 01/May/97 with jed and tony

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/96 with jon

michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 17/Mar/96 with andy boorman

craig h - Lead - 02/Mar/96 with Janet Hannah

Hidden - AltLd - 1995

Richard White - 1995

belay bunny turned bad - 1995

rob.grafton - Lead - 1995 with Ben, Bruce

tlr - AltLd - Oct/94 with Pete D

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/94

Hidden - 2nd - 1994

steve taylor - 1994

Pete Nugent - 06/Jun/93 with Geoff Mann

Hidden - Lead - 1993

neilh - Lead - 01/Aug/92 with sara hyde

tlr - AltLd - 10/Apr/92 with Pom

Budge - AltLd O/S - 1992 with Richard Teed

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/91 with Alan Holden

cam1401 - Lead - 1991

Hidden - Lead - 22/Sep/90

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 06/May/90 with Andy Mackay

Neil R - 2nd - 06/May/90 with Ian

Bob - 1990

Hidden - 1990

John Marsland - 2nd - 17/Aug/89 with Dave Mould

led second pitch!
Babika - AltLd - Jul/89 with Mark Jones

Richard Weller - 02/Jul/88 with John (from KMC)

Hidden - Lead - 1988

ChrisJD - 2nd - 07/Nov/87

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/87

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/87 with lawrence cox

ChrisJD - Lead - 30/May/87

ewar woowar - 1987

Neil R - 2nd - 29/Nov/86 with Ian

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/86

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/85 with Kim Greenald

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 17/Mar/85 with Rory Park

Hidden - 1985

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1985

andy gittins - 1985

Melok - AltLd - 1985

John Marsland - 2nd - 10/Nov/84 with Dave Mould

AlanLittle - Lead - 20/Aug/84 with Dave Hall

sadams - AltLd - 06/May/84 with Chris Thwaites

jasper11 - 1984

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - Jun/83 with Phillippa Mathews

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 05/Apr/83 with Grahame Nicoll

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1982

andy gittins - 1982

Hidden - 1981

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 13/Jul/80 with Ian, John

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jun/80

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/80

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/80

Hammy - AltLd - 04/Apr/80 with Tony Mitchell

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/80

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1980

steve L - 1979

Mark Kemball - Lead - 17/Aug/78 with Sarah Bridge

Hidden - 1978

Ian Jones - Lead rpt - 1978 with Chris Newton

ian caton - Lead O/S - Oct/76

Free
Bolt Phobia - Lead - 15/May/76

Mike Owen - 02/May/76 with Sandy Doby, John Roberts

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/75 with Harry Woodbridge

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/75

Peter free climbed the crux; first time we'd seen chalk at Tremadoc!
Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 02/Mar/75 with Peter Boardman

petemeads - Lead - 1975

pneame - 01/Aug/74

mikej - AltLd - 07/Feb/70 with Pete Boardman

mikej - Lead - 20/Jun/69 with Bill Church

David Smith - Lead - 1968 with Pete Clayton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, tomwright1509, Alex Riley, MikeStuart26, Sebastien Gastaud, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ralfy, Danhan, Mike Parker

Voting
Total votes cast 156
hard E20 of 56
E20 of 56
easy E224 of 56
hard E122 of 56
E110 of 56
easy E10 of 56
hard HVS0 of 56
HVS0 of 56
easy HVS0 of 56
hard 6a0 of 54
6a0 of 54
easy 6a0 of 54
hard 5c15 of 54
5c36 of 54
easy 5c1 of 54
hard 5b2 of 54
5b0 of 54
easy 5b0 of 54
3 Stars19 of 46
2 Stars26 of 46
1 Star1 of 46
0 Stars0 of 46
Bag of .....0 of 46
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Style of ascent

Lead90 of 274 (32.8%)
Followed36 of 274 (13.1%)
Alt Leads80 of 274 (29.2%)
Unknown68 of 274 (24.8%)

'Climbed'152 of 274 (55.5%)
clean O/S108 of 274 (39.4%)
clean rpt7 of 274 (2.6%)
clean RP1 of 274 (0.4%)
dogged6 of 274 (2.2%)