Rockfax Description
Precarious balancy climbing up an overhanging wall - how does it do that?
1) 5c, 38m. Follow Merlin to gain the base of the groove. Climb rightwards along a ramp-line and make hard moves up onto a ledge. Negotiate your way leftwards across this and balance up a rib to a crack. Move across this quickly to gain the easier slab out left. Belay below a short steep groove at a tree.
2) 5a, 6m. Finish up the corner, or abseil off. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, North Wales E3's, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
LJKing 08/Oct 2nd O/S
with Paul Clarkson
Jonathan Spooner 17/Sep AltLd
with Will Birkett
philhilo 10/Sep Lead O/S

Excellent route, lots of ledge shuffling, well protected. Straight forward and no long reaches.

with misha
Misha 10/Sep 2nd O/S

Phil walked it but I thought it was a solid E3 - the crux is quite hard and fairly bold, after that it's easier but still tricky 3D diagonal ledge shuffling. Good route with a devious but logical line.

with Phil
D.Russell 28/May Lead O/S
with Heather F , Adam
Hidden 28/May AltLd O/S
Si 27/May AltLd O/S

Good effort by Stu on the main pitch. Was pleased to get this clean on second.

with Stu
Hidden 14/May Lead O/S
Ed Babs 22/Apr AltLd O/S

P1

richpickford ??/2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
wi11 03/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Balancey and pumpy. Good climbing

with Louisa Reynolds
Hidden 30/Aug/15 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Jun/15 2nd
mynyddresident 04/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Tony P
Hidden 25/May/15 2nd dog
Steve Long 25/May/15 Lead
theotherpetehill 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Little bit wet in crack on ramp, but not on the actual crux. Abbed from a tree after P1 to get gear.

with Georgina Brooke
Dan724 27/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Great route, much better than expected. Quite steady for E3, thought it was going to be a lot harder. Good gear all the way. 3*

with Clare Thatcher, Matt Peach
Brian Rodgers 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Neil Hillis
Matt.c.Warner ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
alice fuller 11/Sep/14 2nd

brilliant lead by pete. i seconded with a tight rope for the second ramp,which is hard and diff to read, and scary.

Hidden 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Ed morris 29/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jerry Handren
redjerry 29/Jul/14 Lead
with Ed Morris
pete johnson 26/May/14 -
with Geoff Bennett
Alex Riley 12/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Took a big fall just after the peg whilst climbing up on the last bit of the ramp, will be back to have another go.

with Joe W
oliverpcain ??/2014 AltLd O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd β
Hidden 20/Sep/13 2nd
Michael Allday 21/Aug/13 Lead rpt
shed_hed 24/May/13 2nd O/S
dswansonlow 24/May/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 23/May/13 Lead O/S
with rich gentry
Matt Cooke 04/May/13 Lead β
Hidden 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S
cameronmcloughlin ??/2013 2nd
with james mchaffie
Hidden 15/Aug/12 2nd
Bruce Houston ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Awesome climb, definitely deserves E3 as the first peg protecting the ramp is completely LOSE to the point it fell out as I went to clip it. Took a moment to re-consolidate and blasted on.

gforce 16/May/12 2nd
with Adrian
AC1 16/May/12 Lead
with gforce
Owain Llewelyn 02/May/12 2nd rpt
with Dan
dan ely 02/May/12 Lead O/S
with owian
Liam FLeming 13/Mar/12 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
piersg ??/2012 2nd
willoates 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Great climb, quality line, have been wanting to do this since my first time at Tremadog. Didn't feel anywhere near as hard or bold as i was psyched up for. well happy.

with Martin D
gregoritos 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
edmitchell 30/Jul/11 AltLd

Slipped off low crux. Back on and rest clean. Obviously led the top pitch!

Adam Booth 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Dave Parton 22/Jul/11 Lead
with Adam Ellwood
Liam FLeming 03/Jul/11 Lead
with stuart lade
HIGHTOWER 28/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Helen
Luke Brooks 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Glyn Hudson
jon_gill1 19/Jun/11 Lead dnf

great balancy route!unfortunately as i got to the bit where you climb up after the first peg i lost footing and came flying off! A massive whipper, was amazing free fall into space! il be back!

Hidden 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 18/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Weird route. Ultra balancy and mega exposed position!

with Si
Andrew Barker 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great climbing but nowhere was it "unfathomable" as the select guide suggests.

with Si
Rachel Slater 31/May/11 AltLd
Chi Cheng 31/May/11 Lead

First Onsite E3!!

Owain Llewelyn 13/May/11 Lead
with Gareth E
Michael Allday ?/May/11 Lead O/S

onsighted thought it was easy tho didnt feel E3 to me but still a fun route

with rodney greenfield
david morse 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Awesome, a powerful and technical battle!

Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd dog
ksjs 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Genius, superb trad and my first Tremadog E3 though I see Paul Williams gave it E2 (I'm assuming there were more pegs at some point). Anyway, felt E3 to me. Took ages to work out what to do, I could see you had to go up but I was convinced you still somehow had to use the ramp for feet. Then that ledge shuffling, V Diff probably but feels very awkward. Mega rope drag on upper slab so care needed with ropes. Not sure about the gear on this: a good nut and peg beneath you for the crux but the peg is loose and if the nut went I'm not convinced the gear in the crack would stand an outward pull, worth sticking some cams in probably. Also, if you fell around the upper peg (looked solid) you'd go some way onto another peg (and good cam if you placed it).

with pete
Tom Livingstone 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mr mills 13/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Elfyn (chang)
markalmack 10/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Duncan Campbell 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Freaking AWESOME! Have wanted to do this for ages! The ramp was actually steady but felt insecure...crux is the moves off the ramp once committed I just blasted up them, then the next tricky move comes around the second peg...tenuous to get off the ledge then a straightforward move around onto the arete to the rockover! Wicked day at Tremadog, soooo warm! Can't stop smiling :D

HeatherF 04/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Duncan
samrad 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with james G
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
marky65 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Matt
maffujones 11/Oct/10 2nd
with Mark
steepstuff 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/10 Lead
remus 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Felt easy at the grade, although a crucial wire did lift out just after id done the crux so not sure how good it was.

benkelsey 21/Jul/10 2nd O/S

so much harder than the ramp it looks from the ground. wouldn't trust pegs

beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
Hidden ?/Jul/10 -
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
titchbach ?/Jun/10 2nd
C Mclean 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Joe Ward
switch 28/Mar/10 Lead rpt
farmus21 10/Feb/10 Lead

Great route

with Mikey Goldthorpe, Alex Mason
Hidden 08/Feb/10 Lead
drewish 08/Feb/10 Lead dnf

Gave it a go,got pumped.. fluffed it.. say no more. Took a reet good whipper mind

with SteveE9
soph 01/Jan/10 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
Alex Mason 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Funky route. Ramp was all wet making it interesting. Think i did the crux wrong as i was really cranking hard on crimps (maybe the proper holds were wet??)

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S

One of the best E3's ive done, awesome moves, awesome exposure, definately 3*

Glyn 24/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Cool route, very balancey, felt very tiered and hungover

with Barni
barni 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 27/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
switch 06/Jun/09 2nd rpt
mattyork2 10/May/09 2nd O/S

A great lead Pete, well done. Fantastic route and just psyched to hold the ropes! ( :

with Pete Harrison
mr mills 21/Mar/09 Lead
with Mike Pycroft
datoon 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with K
Brown 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Max
Rich Kirby 10/May/08 Lead O/S

Fine if you fathom the perplexing crux. Low in grade unless your lanky. Another quality Tremadog route.

with Nige
nige 10/May/08 2nd
with richard kirby
feilx 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
Ed Booth ??/2008 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
IOAN D 29/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with rhys
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 24/Aug/05 Lead O/S
AJ007 ?/Aug/05 2nd dog
with Dan
spidey 07/May/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 01/May/05 2nd rpt
with Nic Sellers
Hidden 02/Aug/04 Lead O/S
3 Names ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
sadams 09/Apr/04 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Apr/04 Lead
lukea 26/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Al
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
Shaw Brown ??/2003 2nd O/S
with David Menadue
akhughes ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Phil T
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
WB 15/Oct/99 Lead O/S
with Paul
Dave Musgrove Jnr 17/Jul/99 Lead
with Rowan Cooper
Hidden 01/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/98 Lead
sadams 14/Jun/97 2nd
with Team Midlands
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
crossleysm ?/Apr/96 -
michael burrows 19/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with phil jones
nai ??/1995 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 AltLd
rob.grafton ??/1995 Lead
with Ben, Bruce
Hidden 03/Sep/94 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Nick Biven 12/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Phil Jones
Roget 10/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
tlr 10/Apr/92 AltLd
with Pom
jfletcher 21/Mar/92 Lead O/S
with Nigel Bensley
Steve Crowe ??/1992 AltLd O/S

Circa 1992

with KM
adi bryant 05/May/91 Lead dnf
with Lou
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Lead
with stumpy
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Lead
with stumpy
DDDD ??/1990 -
Bob ??/1990 -
Seymore Butt ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill
mark-abz 17/Aug/89 Lead
with Andy W
Chris Wright 31/May/89 Lead O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 01/May/88 2nd
with Bill Williamson
Andy Edgar ??/1988 Lead
sadams 10/Jul/87 2nd
with Guy Townsend
Hidden ??/1987 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1987 2nd
with Bill Williamson
ewar woowar ??/1987 -
Bruce Kerr 09/Jul/86 Lead
with Sheila Bruce Lockhart
wynaptomos ?/Jul/86 2nd
uphillnow ??/1986 Lead

had seconded the route earlier with pog

John Marsland 02/Nov/85 2nd
with Allen Newby
Eduardo Martinez 27/Oct/85 Lead O/S
keefe 06/May/85 -
Hidden 05/May/85 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 16/Mar/85 Lead
with Si Gee
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 Lead
with Duncan Bond
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
steveboote ??/1985 Lead
Tim Sparrow ?/Jan/84 2nd
with Ned
Tim Sparrow ?/Jan/84 2nd
with Ned
nniff ?/Jan/84 Lead
Tim Sparrow ??/1984 2nd

Nails!

with Ned
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
nigehughes ?/Sep/83 2nd
with Nick Sharpe
Hidden 28/Aug/83 AltLd
nniff 21/Apr/83 Lead O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 2nd
with Rab Carrington, Phil Burke
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Nic Robinson 27/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 04/Apr/80 Lead
with John Jefferies
Hidden 04/Apr/80 2nd
Hidden ??/1980 -
kjacks ??/1980 2nd

Used pegs , knees, teeth, eyebrows etc. - found it very hard though I was wearing my best trousers which were a bit tight.

with 'Psycho' Simon
Mike Owen 08/Apr/79 Lead rpt
with John Roberts
Steve Lewis 07/Jul/78 Lead O/S
with Pete
Steve Bell ??/1978 -
Mark Kemball 06/Nov/77 Lead dnf
Mike Owen 20/Mar/77 Lead rpt
with John Roberts
petemeads ??/1977 Lead O/S

An unusual climb, and one of my favourites - moving off the ramp to be sitting on the ledge facing outwards on an overhanging wall seems so unlikely. Tried Vulture a year or so later - could not commit to the crux moves ...

Mike Owen 13/Mar/76 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
15 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 34
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set