Geireagle** E3 5c

Rockfax Description
Precarious balancy climbing up an overhanging wall - how does it do that?
1) 5c, 38m. Follow Merlin to gain the base of the groove. Climb rightwards along a ramp-line and make hard moves up onto a ledge. Negotiate your way leftwards across this and balance up a rib to a crack. Move across this quickly to gain the easier slab out left. Belay below a short steep groove at a tree.
2) 5a, 6m. Finish up the corner, or abseil off. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, North Wales E3's.

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This climb is in 167 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Hidden - 2015

brilliant lead by pete. i seconded with a tight rope for the second ramp,which is hard and diff to read, and scary.
alice fuller - 2nd - 11/Sep/14 with kafoozalem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/14

Ed morris - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/14 with Jerry Handren

redjerry - Lead - 29/Jul/14 with Ed Morris

Took a big fall just after the peg whilst climbing up on the last bit of the ramp, will be back to have another go.
Alex Riley - Lead dnf - 12/Apr/14 with Joe W

oliverpcain - AltLd O/S - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - AltLd β - 05/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/13

Michael Allday - Lead rpt - 21/Aug/13

shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 24/May/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 24/May/13 with Darren McMaster

tim newton - Lead O/S - 23/May/13 with rich gentry

Matt Cooke - Lead β - 04/May/13 with Tom Jagger

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/13

cameronmcloughlin - 2nd - 2013 with james mchaffie

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Aug/12

Awesome climb, definitely deserves E3 as the first peg protecting the ramp is completely LOSE to the point it fell out as I went to clip it. Took a moment to re-consolidate and blasted on.
Bruce Houston - Lead O/S - Aug/12

gforce - 2nd - 16/May/12 with Adrian

Owain Llewelyn - 2nd rpt - 02/May/12 with Dan

dan ely - Lead O/S - 02/May/12 with owian

Liam FLeming - 13/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Great climb, quality line, have been wanting to do this since my first time at Tremadog. Didn't feel anywhere near as hard or bold as i was psyched up for. well happy.
willoates - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Martin D

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

Slipped off low crux. Back on and rest clean. Obviously led the top pitch!
edmitchell - AltLd - 30/Jul/11 with adam booth

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11

Dave Parton - Lead - 22/Jul/11 with Adam Ellwood

Liam FLeming - Lead - 03/Jul/11 with stuart lade

HIGHTOWER - 2nd dog - 28/Jun/11 with Helen

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Glyn Hudson

great balancy route!unfortunately as i got to the bit where you climb up after the first peg i lost footing and came flying off! A massive whipper, was amazing free fall into space! il be back!
jon_gill1 - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/11 with john beardmore

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11

Weird route. Ultra balancy and mega exposed position!
robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Si

Great climbing but nowhere was it "unfathomable" as the select guide suggests.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Si

Rachel Slater - AltLd - 31/May/11 with Sarah Rixham, Chi Huo Cheng

First Onsite E3!!
Chi Cheng - Lead - 31/May/11 with Sarah Rixham, Rachel Stater

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 13/May/11 with Gareth E

onsighted thought it was easy tho didnt feel E3 to me but still a fun route
Michael Allday - Lead O/S - May/11 with rodney greenfield

Awesome, a powerful and technical battle!
david morse - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Nicola Jasieniecka, lole

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/11

Genius, superb trad and my first Tremadog E3 though I see Paul Williams gave it E2 (I'm assuming there were more pegs at some point). Anyway, felt E3 to me. Took ages to work out what to do, I could see you had to go up but I was convinced you still somehow had to use the ramp for feet. Then that ledge shuffling, V Diff probably but feels very awkward. Mega rope drag on upper slab so care needed with ropes. Not sure about the gear on this: a good nut and peg beneath you for the crux but the peg is loose and if the nut went I'm not convinced the gear in the crack would stand an outward pull, worth sticking some cams in probably. Also, if you fell around the upper peg (looked solid) you'd go some way onto another peg (and good cam if you placed it).
ksjs - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with pete

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Tom Ripley

mr mills - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/11 with Elfyn (chang)

markalmack - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/11 with james marjot

Freaking AWESOME! Have wanted to do this for ages! The ramp was actually steady but felt insecure...crux is the moves off the ramp once committed I just blasted up them, then the next tricky move comes around the second peg...tenuous to get off the ledge then a straightforward move around onto the arete to the rockover! Wicked day at Tremadog, soooo warm! Can't stop smiling :D
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11 with Florence the Machine

HeatherF - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/11 with Duncan

samrad - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11 with james G

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

marky65 - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/10 with Matt

maffujones - 2nd - 11/Oct/10 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - 14/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/10

so much harder than the ramp it looks from the ground. wouldn't trust pegs
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/10 with Remus Knowles

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with my uncle carl

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10

titchbach - 2nd - Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/10

switch - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/10 with Jo Bertalot

Great route
farmus21 - Lead - 10/Feb/10 with Mikey Goldthorpe, Alex Mason

Hidden - Lead - 08/Feb/10

Gave it a go,got pumped.. fluffed it.. say no more. Took a reet good whipper mind
drewish - Lead dnf - 08/Feb/10 with SteveE9

soph - 01/Jan/10

simeclimb68 - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

Funky route. Ramp was all wet making it interesting. Think i did the crux wrong as i was really cranking hard on crimps (maybe the proper holds were wet??)
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09 with Mikey G

One of the best E3's ive done, awesome moves, awesome exposure, definately 3*
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09 with alex mason

Cool route, very balancey, felt very tiered and hungover
Glyn - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/09 with Barni

barni - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/09 with Glyn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09

Richard Horn - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/09

switch - 2nd rpt - 06/Jun/09

A great lead Pete, well done. Fantastic route and just psyched to hold the ropes! ( :
mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - 10/May/09 with Pete Harrison

mr mills - Lead - 21/Mar/09 with Mike Pycroft

Seymore Butt - 2009

datoon - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with K

Brown - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Max

Fine if you fathom the perplexing crux. Low in grade unless your lanky. Another quality Tremadog route.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Nige

nige - 2nd - 10/May/08 with richard kirby

feilx - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Mike Soldner

Marcus - 2008

Ed Booth - 2008

Rob Kennard - 2007

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/06 with rhys

dan gibson - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/05

AJ007 - 2nd dog - Aug/05 with Dan

spidey - Lead O/S - 07/May/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 01/May/05 with Nic Sellers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/04

3 Names - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Richard Bartlet

ian caton - Lead O/S - May/04 with Abi

sadams - 2nd - 09/Apr/04 with Eric Hildrew

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - Apr/04

lukea - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/03 with Al

Hidden - 2nd - 2003

Shaw Brown - 2nd O/S - 2003 with David Menadue

akhughes - Lead - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000 with Phil T

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

WB - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/99 with Paul

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 17/Jul/99 with Rowan Cooper

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/98

Hidden - Lead - Jun/98

sadams - 2nd - 14/Jun/97 with Team Midlands

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/95 with phil jones

Hidden - AltLd - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1995

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 1995

rob.grafton - Lead - 1995 with Ben, Bruce

Hidden - Lead - 03/Sep/94

Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/92 with Phil Jones

Roget - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/92 with jon

tlr - AltLd - 10/Apr/92 with Pom

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/92 with Nigel Bensley

adi bryant - Lead dnf - 05/May/91 with Lou

steve taylor - Lead - Mar/91 with stumpy

steve taylor - Lead - Mar/91 with stumpy

DDDD - 1990

Bob - 1990

mark-abz - Lead - 17/Aug/89 with Andy W

Chris Wright - Lead - 31/May/89

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - 01/May/88 with Bill Williamson

EagerAndy - Lead - 1988

sadams - 2nd - 10/Jul/87 with Guy Townsend

Hidden - 1987

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - 1987 with Bill Williamson

ewar woowar - 1987

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 09/Jul/86 with Sheila Bruce Lockhart

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/86

John Marsland - 2nd - 02/Nov/85 with Allen Newby

keefe - 06/May/85

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 16/Mar/85 with Si Gee

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1985 with Duncan Bond

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

Tim Sparrow - 2nd - 1984 with Ned

jasper11 - 1984

nigehughes - 2nd - Sep/83 with Nick Sharpe

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/83

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1982 with Rab Carrington, Phil Burke

andy gittins - 1982

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/81

Mark Kemball - Lead - 04/Apr/80 with John Jefferies

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Apr/80

Hidden - 1980

Mike Owen - 08/Apr/79 with John Roberts

seconded Pog, done perhaps 3 times since on the lead
David Smith - 2nd - 1979 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

steve L - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/78 with Pete

Hidden - 1978

Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 06/Nov/77

An unusual climb, and one of my favourites - moving off the ramp to be sitting on the ledge facing outwards on an overhanging wall seems so unlikely. Tried Vulture a year or so later - could not commit to the crux moves ...
petemeads - Lead O/S - 1977

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
EyebrowTom, Matthew Ferrier, Alex Riley, givemetea, Owen W-G, DavidR, MikeT

Total votes cast 88
hard E40 of 30
E40 of 30
easy E40 of 30
hard E35 of 30
E321 of 30
easy E32 of 30
hard E22 of 30
E20 of 30
easy E20 of 30
hard 6a0 of 30
6a0 of 30
easy 6a0 of 30
hard 5c7 of 30
5c23 of 30
easy 5c0 of 30
hard 5b0 of 30
5b0 of 30
easy 5b0 of 30
3 Stars18 of 28
2 Stars9 of 28
1 Star1 of 28
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat