Rockfax Description
The clean slab/wall left of Caerfai Crack has some testing moves. Climb the wall, moving gradually leftwards to gain the horizontal break. Finish more easily. © Rockfax

Hidden 28/Oct Lead
richy85 10/Oct 2nd
with George
cdpuk 27/Sep 2nd O/S
JulianB 27/Sep Lead
Eagertom 08/Sep Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Sep -
Jenny Monkey 30/Aug 2nd
with kev, Luke Mansfield
Lukem6 30/Aug 2nd O/S
with Kev, Jenny Monkey
StevieLee 30/Aug Lead O/S
knighty 30/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 18/Aug Solo O/S
Doug miller 15/Aug Lead O/S
Andy Hardy 07/Aug Lead O/S

Side runner in caerfai crack low down

Jenny Hall 29/Jul 2nd
with Louis
Hidden 17/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Jul 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul 2nd
Joe Brooke ?/Jul AltLd
Hidden 22/Jun 2nd
Hidden 22/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun Lead
mjeffery 18/Jun Lead rpt
with Steve
Hidden 16/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
Nevil 24/May Lead
with Vince
Julian Prieto 24/May Lead O/S
with Anne-Marie Shepherd, Alan Blanchflower
Vincej 24/May 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 24/May Lead
Monkey_Alan 24/May 2nd
with Anne-Marie Shepherd, Julian Prieto
Norman_P_W 24/May 2nd
with Bob M
Hidden 09/May 2nd O/S
Steve Wakeford 04/May 2nd
with Dan Commander
Dan Hostford 02/May Solo rpt
jonnyboy 01/May Lead O/S
Happeuss 15/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr Lead
Andrew1 07/Apr Lead
with Hulda
Neal Jobling 04/Apr Lead rpt
with Robin
Hidden 03/Apr Lead O/S
spearing05 03/Apr 2nd O/S
with Andrew
Dizz 03/Apr 2nd O/S
with Dave Frost
Jack2222 ??/2015 -
luke glaister 30/Dec/14 2nd O/S

Hard vs at most. But it looks good on the log book... lovely route.

casey johns 30/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Run out at the start but not hard climbing then 3 great bits of gear to start moving left. Vs 4c

GethSurf 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/14 2nd
maddy92 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
stalbot93 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with maddy92
Jen Mason 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Martin
smolders 23/Aug/14 Lead

Unable to place any gear on the bottom section so ended up going R onto bottom Caerfai Crack then rejoining the route at the first horizontal break. Seemed harder than VS?

with Jen M
Rob Morgan 22/Aug/14 2nd
Steve Bartle 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Robin Brooke ?/Aug/14 Lead
Pryan ?/Aug/14 2nd
with Robin Brooke
DanChad 28/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 28/Jul/14 Lead

Not a chance this is HVS.

Steveb27 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Stanners 08/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Brierley, Shijing, BA, Maria Brierley
Feeling bold 08/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Rob (lead), Rachel
miriamclaire 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Radical-G 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mclancy50 09/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/14 Lead O/S
MrJWilliams92 03/Jun/14 -
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd
cameron_hall 31/May/14 Lead rpt
Pintsize 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Angus McBride
Hidden 18/May/14 TR O/S
fuzzysheep01 04/May/14 2nd O/S
with Graham Perry
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead
Dan Hostford 02/May/14 Solo O/S
bantamdave 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Bold .Very bold 2 pieces of gear half way up then one on the top out ! 80 feet ? Ha just realized my book said VS its HVS That explains it ! grades about right !

with Simon
hutchay 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Hutch
hotfeet 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Steveb27 18/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead
themadbrown 09/Apr/14 -
with Sid, chlo-jo,, james
Hidden 18/Mar/14 Lead O/S
guy757 08/Mar/14 -
Alex the Alex 07/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Robin
BicycleBradley ??/2014 2nd rpt
khris ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Bradley
Sol Armer 19/Oct/13 TR

Great route. Ascender= no belayer need

Hidden 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/13 2nd O/S
cem 05/Oct/13 2nd
Steve Lenartowicz 13/Sep/13 Lead
with Clare
Hidden 02/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
DanOsb 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

not hvs.

Martin Bagshaw 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Bernie
Montecore 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

VS in newer guides, and felt like it

with Ben Simpkins
Skullfire 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 24/Aug/13 2nd
dannyboy83 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sion
JenDurden 16/Aug/13 Lead
cas54321 06/Aug/13 2nd
with Chris
ladymuck 06/Aug/13 TR O/S
with Jill Eccles
LiamAD 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Curly Chris
JonathanJones 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Scott
themadbrown 26/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with james
Phil Mercer 22/Jul/13 2nd
with erica
John Brayshaw 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Chris
erica 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Phil
chris skipton 22/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Jul/13 TR O/S
Matt88 08/Jul/13 2nd

cant find anything that would warrant this hvs 5a

with Alex wade
Alex Wade 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
leeoftroy ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
JakeWShaw 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Clem
JHiley 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Zuzana
Hidden 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
scott quinn 05/Jun/13 2nd
Tom.Priestley 05/Jun/13 Lead dog

Foot slipped out of the top of the sentry box and I took my first lead fall. Bit of fun.

mhawk 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Rich God 3 28/May/13 2nd
with Kin
ashsleight 26/May/13 Lead O/S

VS 4c in the book. Definitely not HVS.

with John Wilkins
coffeepot 25/May/13 2nd β
98%monkey 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Gets VS in guidebook. HVS is next route to the left.

with Nicki
Mistee 18/May/13 2nd O/S
with Phil
Dan Hostford 06/May/13 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Maddie 04/May/13 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 04/May/13 2nd O/S

Middling/Easy VS no HVS.

with James
theandthem 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ralph
foostu4 04/Mar/13 Lead O/S
djromberg ??/2013 -
gjd 20/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Mark V
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dale.young 05/Sep/12 TR rpt
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/12 2nd
BicycleBradley 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Easy first official HVS. Only one 5a move, which needed confidence rather than skill, enjoyed regardless.

Hidden 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Meinertzhagen 13/Aug/12 TR O/S
Mountainman62 13/Aug/12 2nd
with James91
Fiona McFarlane ?/Aug/12 2nd
Rob Hirst 30/Jun/12 Lead rpt
joe king 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Rose
HarryB 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with John
Katherine Ross 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

I got 3 pieces of gear, all about mid-height, so HVS is not completely unreasonable. Definitely not 5a, though!

mchandy 09/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Chris1234H 02/Jun/12 2nd
Ross.Cooper 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Jez
erbridger 23/May/12 Lead
bigglesbutcha 18/May/12 Lead O/S
with rob hunt
wiljones 08/May/12 Lead O/S
benjih2o 08/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd
Hardcore Pat 10/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Clay C 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Jay
Jay C 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Looking in an old guide book I think there's a bit of a confusion. To the left of Caerfai Crack there is a VS 4c (The Byrn) and then to the right of Caerfai Crack in between this route and White Corner there is a delicate slab route (HVS 5a - The Bryn).

with Clay C
teflonpete 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

The one left of Caerfai crack looking at the crag. Definitely only VS

with Blanchie, rockovamonkey
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
paul horabin 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
steven 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Fiona, Paul Horabin
UnkArl 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

VS 4c as with most of the routes on this wall the slab by first half is quite run-out (I placed a 00 micro wire that Rik said he wouldn't hang an ActionMan off).

with Lisa, Rik, Debbie
Big Rik 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Debs 08/Apr/12 2nd
with Karl
3kidsandanorton 07/Apr/12 Lead
with Catherine
Different Steve 07/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Emma Hawkins
Ralphus 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Not much of climb, super easy tick for an HVS.

with Gavin Singleton
fi15 ?/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/12 2nd
funsized ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S


Hidden 05/Mar/12 2nd
dangerousoldfool ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Matt
PAJames ??/2012 -
Tom Wayman ??/2012 Lead
Rob_Webster ??/2012 -
garethsteel 21/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Blisco 28/Aug/11 2nd

Mat finished up Caerfai Crack, I seconded up the correct line.

with Mat Mitchell
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Karlos 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ben
Jonny M 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Jim Malo 26/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ian, Tim
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mariannekhoo 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Not sure why this is given HVS, it's more VS 4b.

Hidden 11/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead
tully1987 02/Aug/11 2nd
Rob Hirst ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
Oliver Sherman 29/Jul/11 2nd
with John Eales
jonny taylor 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Andy K
alberttcone 25/Jul/11 2nd O/S
dansmonkeytroubles 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
adam carless 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Sheridan
Hidden 01/Jun/11 2nd
mjeffery 25/May/11 2nd rpt
Matt Smith 14/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd O/S
james rafferty ?/May/11 -
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
coombs 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S
danielskingley ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jono Graham ??/2011 -
Chris M Thomas 08/Sep/10 TR rpt

Fine sunny afternoon. Climb protected by shunt on double rope.

pelvoux 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

First gear half way on top of the slab, then 4 gears in a row and up for the top

with Mario
Jim Gaffney 13/Aug/10 TR O/S
jonny taylor 13/Aug/10 Lead rpt
TM_Horton 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with will
JoEglington 08/Aug/10 2nd
Nigel R Lewis 01/Aug/10 2nd
with Ian Goudge
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
hazeysunshine 01/Aug/10 2nd
with Dave
pie_eater_pete ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Jo
djprepie 10/Jul/10 2nd
with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)
Ed morris 16/Jun/10 Solo O/S

Thought I was on the HS.

with Lee
Jams Crwca 16/Jun/10 Lead β
with Jeff
timofy ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
themadbrown 21/May/10 2nd O/S
with james
rich_greeny 02/May/10 TR O/S
with Duncan Slater
Aid@n 01/May/10 Lead
Byronius Maximus 01/May/10 2nd
Twisty 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Byron Buck
Rhydian Evans 14/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Matt Bill Platypus 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Zoomer 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Jules 210681 24/Sep/09 2nd
jonny taylor 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with James
Jimmy O 23/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/09 2nd O/S
mje1398 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Steph B
Claire Taylor 18/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Nick Weston
Hidden 25/Jul/09 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Leelogs 25/May/09 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead
broc 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah, Geoff
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
Blisco 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Definitely not HVS; I thought I was on Caerfai Crack and was quite willing to believe it was VS 4b.

with Chris Townsend
Rog Wilko 11/Apr/09 2nd
with Gerard Conway
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/09 Lead
scorpia97 18/Feb/09 2nd O/S
with Caspian
Hidden 03/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Rob Hirst 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Howard J 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Ronnie Abrams
sman3333 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S

pretty cool..good photos!

Hidden 10/Aug/08 TR
drewish 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Halt
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead rpt
ASchwirtz 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ian (UBMC)
tomB 24/May/08 Lead O/S
Meg Jones 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Griffin
jonnyhawkins1 17/May/08 TR O/S
with kat
GeorgeArmstrong 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Rob Harrison
jamie ward 02/May/08 Lead O/S

Delicate climbing up the white slab, best route here.

with Chris Comrie
Hidden 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Nice but very easy for the grade Completed just before a heavy shower, but we still got soaked

with Dave J
Hidden 28/Aug/07 TR O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/07 TR
hardoreVdiffBen 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Freeman
toasted 05/May/07 Lead
with Ian Atkins
bfreeman 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Dave Wearing 06/Apr/07 2nd
with Ken Tebay
Dan Shirley 29/Mar/07 2nd O/S
swmackey ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
crag_monster ?/Jun/06 Lead
Marq 29/May/06 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
timharrison 07/May/06 Lead O/S
TheNorthernOne 26/Apr/06 Lead

MY FIRST HVS 5a, and it was fooking fantastic!!!

with Dave Steadman
K Wall 15/Apr/06 2nd
with Jonno
Hidden 15/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
jamie ward 29/May/05 2nd O/S
with Tom Skipworth
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/05 Lead

Soft for the grade. VS 4c?

with Debbie Wilkinson
clive-greenwood 06/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Owen Sudlow
kendogcatchy ??/2004 TR

If this is what I think it is topped a few times.

leon ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Andy Wright
akhughes ?/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 04/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
lost.arrow 25/Aug/01 2nd
with Nikki Hawkins
Bry ?/Jul/01 2nd O/S
with Pete Roberts
Hidden 27/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 2nd
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 Solo
Paul-Michael 23/May/98 Lead O/S

did not step left but climbed direct.

with Nick Hanie
auld al ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S
sdht ?/Jun/96 -
michael burrows 05/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with richard parry
Andy Say 02/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, mullermn
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 73
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set