Orogeny** E2 5b
[Mark Lloyd on Orogeny, E2 5b, Craig Caerfai, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
An exhilarating line. Climb the thin crack, then make tricky moves up and leftwards, to gain the prominent arete. Finish cautiously up this to a loose exit. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK.

Photo: Mark Lloyd on Orogeny, E2 5b, Craig Caerfai © Patrick Daniel
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 193 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Rockfax line seems to differ slightly from CC. Used CC, avoiding the arete.
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/15 with Bernhard Lozowski

JulianB - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/15 with Bernhard Lozowski, Chris Peka

5210Hill - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead dnf - Jul/15

mjeffery - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/15 with Steve

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15

TobyA - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Tom R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/15

deklan - 2nd - 06/Jun/15 with Si

Hidden - TR O/S - 09/May/15

Steve Wakeford - 2nd - 04/May/15 with Dan Commander

First E2! Cant say it was too smooth. Bad gear at the bottom, crampy calves, much swearing. But done, happy days
Maddie - Lead O/S - 04/May/15 with Dan Hostford

Thought the arete wasn't in so determinedly did it without! :)
Dizz - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/15 with Dave Frost

GethSurf - TR O/S - 19/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/14

Dan Hostford - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/14 with George Hostford

NickyC - TR O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Zain Karim

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/14

Thought it was an E1, was supposed to be a warm up...
BicycleBradley - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/14 with Chris Phelps

khris - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/14 with Bradley

Great climb, hard on the feet. Gear is a little scary for first half.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/14 with Shijing Hu

Matthew Glenn - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Welly Matt - TR O/S - 21/Jun/14

raymondlinklater - TR O/S - 11/Jun/14

one foot slip
nicknicely - 2nd - 31/May/14 with louis

After several attempts, got a few metres up with a single bit of gear, but then started getting really nervous and needed to get the ab rope swung round to give me a hand hold.
cameron_hall - Lead dnf - 31/May/14 with Aileen Robertson

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

Dan Hostford - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Remi Richards

Remi Richards - 2nd - 03/May/14 with Dan Hostford

Hidden - Solo rpt - 02/May/14

A bold start. Had one fall; fortunately had just managed to get a micro wire in. Otherwise pretty pleased with myself!
hotfeet - Lead dog - 19/Apr/14

jason smeeth - 2nd dnf - 19/Apr/14 with hotfeet

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

My toes couldnt hack it so had to deviate to the arrete at 7m then cut back in at the first break. really good climbing from then on in.
Alex the Alex - Lead dog - 07/Mar/14

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

DanOsb - Lead β - 02/Sep/13 with pat dawson

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13 with Dan Osbasabooboo

rd20 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Loic

kim.mulji - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with David Farrow

Dan Hostford - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/13 with George Hostford

Very delicate and balancy
Montecore - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Ben Simpkins

rfdl100 - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Ben

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Sion

Didn't have the confidence (or enough micros) to do it first time, so lowered off a sketchy small nut. Came back with more gear and flashed it.
Edvenables - Lead RP - Aug/13 with Eleanor Dow

Still a stunner.
themadbrown - 2nd rpt - 26/Jul/13 with james

Andrew1 - 2nd - 12/Jul/13 with Hulda

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/13

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Aileen

kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/13 with Kathrin Rochlitz, Chris Higton

pete1993 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Ben

as easy as I remember. soft E1?
benkelsey - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/13 with Pete Briggs

Matt Harle - 12/Jun/13

RachelP - 2nd - 06/Jun/13

coffeepot - 2nd β - 25/May/13 with notgnarly, jelaby

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/May/13

Dan Hostford - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

Cool climbing. Hung around on crux placing gear as I mistakenly thought it was coming up.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Aidan Sullivan

Dan Hostford - Lead O/S - 04/May/13

With John Moran. Lovely climbing but over far too soon. Belayed halfway then soloed the second half.
Daniel Heath - AltLd O/S - 03/May/13

twilkinson-dix - Lead - May/13 with dave parker

dan ely - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13 with jon (ukc reading)

Hidden - Apr/13

Jay-Ast - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/12 with Rosyk

Rosyk - 2nd dog - 15/Nov/12 with Jay astbury

dale.young - TR rpt - 05/Sep/12

hazeysunshine - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Lionel, Jane

Still loving this-sunny moves:-)
themadbrown - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12 with james

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

Warm up - hard on toes
Jams Crwca - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/12 with themadbrown

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/12

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 26/May/12 with Peter Rigby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/12

jossjones - 2nd - 23/May/12

First E2, very happy.
bigglesbutcha - Lead O/S - 18/May/12 with rob hunt

Jams Crwca - Lead - 16/May/12 with Lee

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/May/12

Hidden - Solo rpt - 04/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - May/12

mullermn - TR O/S - 28/Apr/12 with Kylie Richards

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

First E2 at last.
steven - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Fiona, Paul Horabin

Ralphus - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Karl Gregory

paul horabin - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12

Second E2 (first was the day before). The first part is the hardest, sustained up to where it steepens then eases off. Run-out after the overlap but the climbing is easy.
UnkArl - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Ralph, Rik

Big Rik - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Karl Gregory

Amazing climb. Thin on gear for the first section- took a while to build the courage.
hutchay - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Gavin Singleton

A little soft, but very good climb. Very safe with small gear.
funsized - Lead O/S - Apr/12

Rob_Webster - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead - 11/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/11

Failed on this day before Catrin born, April '99. Really enjoyed it this time.
Tim Sparrow - Lead - 29/Jul/11 with Ian Owen

A few interesting runouts, but definitely very soft for the grade
jonny taylor - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/11 with Andy K

alberttcone - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with jonny taylor

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

themadbrown - 2nd rpt - 23/Jul/11 with james

markalmack - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11 with jacqui savage

Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Sandy Holford

dansmonkeytroubles - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Dave Williams

Loved it! great fun, bit sparse on the foot holds
Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/11 with Edmundmorris

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with David

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 25/May/11

Very thin in the crack with only smears for feet. Make sure your calves are strong !!
Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Stephen Jennings

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/May/11

themadbrown - 2nd rpt - 14/May/11 with james

Jams Crwca - Lead rpt - 14/May/11 with themadbrown

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Apr/11

felt easy for E2. good gear and not particularly sustained 5a.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Remus Knowles

excellent balancy climbing, well protected feeling more like E1 5b.
nia - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

robinsi197 - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with Piotr, Nick

Swirly - 2nd dog - 23/Apr/11 with Eddie

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd rpt - 18/Apr/11 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/11

Guy Neal - 2nd - 22/Jan/11

scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 2011 with Caspian

Rory Shaw - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Fine sunny morning. Climb protected by shunt on double rope. Found it very straight forward but you have to be confident on small footholds.
Chris M Thomas - TR rpt - 09/Sep/10

Start felt tough, probably better to have feet in the crack not your hands! Super soft after that though...which was a shame, better if it had continued being a bit harder.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Becca

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/10

david morse - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/10 with siobhan, chris todd

jonny_098 - TR O/S - 07/Sep/10 with Robin Head

Jams Crwca - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/10 with themadbrown

First E2-superb, especially under the light of a head torch!Timing's the 'key'James?!
themadbrown - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with james

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

Turns out I should have led this! Nice route, but this cannot possibly be E2 by the standards of any other crag. Reasonably sustained slabby 5b with protection = benchmark E1.
jonny taylor - TR O/S - 13/Aug/10

Aerondt - 2nd O/S - Aug/10 with Gaz

owiowz - 2nd - 26/Jul/10

Robin Head - TR O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Johnny H, Sian G

good climb hard start nice rib finish E2
Gwilym 'ledge' Jones - 2nd - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10

adam coxsell - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with conor

Hidden - Lead β - 15/Jun/10

Dan_Carroll - Lead dnf - 30/May/10 with Dan Hancock

Danhan - 2nd - 30/May/10 with Dan Carroll

Chief Wench - 2nd O/S - 02/May/10 with Remus

hardoreVdiffBen - 2nd O/S - 01/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

Byronius Maximus - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Alex Twist

Twisty - 2nd O/S - 01/May/10 with Byron Buck

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with James P

jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Mark

on a warm spring Sunday! Beautiful
RobRock84 - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/10 with Steve Quinton

Good route, but E1 and technically easier than the HVS 5a on the left-hand slab.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with arthur

ian d f - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/10 with Grace Chuchla

Great climbing,crux about 30ft up enjoyable route
RobRock84 - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/09 with Steve Quinton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/09

Same as with Uncertain smile. Got scared on the unusual rock and thinness of it all and let Tim lead through.
mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with Tim Jepson

great route
scorpia97 - Lead rpt - 25/May/09 with Paul

Really nice climbing!
MorganPreece - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Andy Cummings

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/09

Holly R - TR - Apr/09 with Colin

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Feb/09

scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/09 with Caspian

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/Sep/08

Is this really E2, I'm sure i followed the line in the guide but it felt dead easy. The top steeper part looks hard from below but it fact has huge holds.
chris sm - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with Pippa Froggatt

One rest low down ~ 3 meters in (too hot)
ASchwirtz - Lead dog - 09/Jun/08 with Ian (UBMC)

BenJacobs - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/08 with Nick

Meg Jones - 2nd O/S - 24/May/08 with Tim Griffin

bfreeman - Lead O/S - 04/May/08 with Tim Marjot

tlmarjot - 2nd O/S - 01/May/08 with Ben Freeman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Nov/07

First non-grit E2 ? Felt quite thin and sustained low down, followed by a pleasant romp higher up
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Dave J

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07

crag_monster - Lead - Jun/06

Marq - 2nd O/S - 29/May/06 with Daniel Dennehy

Hidden - Lead - 2006

cem - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/05 with James Gill

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/05

Andrew1 - TR - 20/Aug/04 with Juliet Parker Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/03

Hidden - 2003

craig h - Lead - Aug/02

Hidden - Lead - May/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

belay bunny turned bad - 2000

A bit short lived.
alan moore - 2000

Graham Iles - Lead - 21/Aug/98 with Jenny Tweedy

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - 23/May/98 with Nick Hanie

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 02/May/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RobScarisbrick, mcb, Maddie, Skullfire, kim.mulji, TomLanc, RFWilkie, iksander, sweenyt, Owen W-G, Ropeboy, Carl Smethurst

Total votes cast 138
hard E30 of 47
E30 of 47
easy E31 of 47
hard E22 of 47
E227 of 47
easy E210 of 47
hard E15 of 47
E12 of 47
easy E10 of 47
hard 5c0 of 48
5c0 of 48
easy 5c1 of 48
hard 5b4 of 48
5b37 of 48
easy 5b4 of 48
hard 5a2 of 48
5a0 of 48
easy 5a0 of 48
3 Stars6 of 43
2 Stars28 of 43
1 Star9 of 43
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP