Pembrokeshire > Craig Caerfai >
 
Orogeny* E2 5b

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[Mark Lloyd on Orogeny, E2 5b, Craig Caerfai, 3 kb]An exhilarating line. Climb the thin crack, then make tricky moves up and leftwards, to gain the prominent arete. Finish cautiously up this to a loose exit. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK.

Photo: Mark Lloyd on Orogeny, E2 5b, Craig Caerfai © Patrick Daniel
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 173 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/14

Thought it was an E1, was supposed to be a warm up...
BicycleBradley - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/14 with Chris Phelps

khris - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/14 with Bradley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Welly Matt - TR O/S - 21/Jun/14

raymondlinklater - TR O/S - 11/Jun/14

one foot slip
nicknicely - 2nd - 31/May/14 with louis

After several attempts, got a few metres up with a single bit of gear, but then started getting really nervous and needed to get the ab rope swung round to give me a hand hold.
cameron_hall - Lead dnf - 31/May/14 with Aileen Robertson

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

Dan Hostford - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Remi Richards

Remi Richards - 2nd - 03/May/14 with Dan Hostford

Hidden - Solo rpt - 02/May/14

A bold start. Had one fall; fortunately had just managed to get a micro wire in. Otherwise pretty pleased with myself!
hotfeet - Lead dog - 19/Apr/14 with Jason Smeeth

jason smeeth - 2nd dnf - 19/Apr/14 with hotfeet

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

My toes couldnt hack it so had to deviate to the arrete at 7m then cut back in at the first break. really good climbing from then on in.
Alex the Alex - Lead dog - 07/Mar/14

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

DanOsb - Lead β - 02/Sep/13 with pat dawson

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13 with Dan Osbasabooboo

rd20 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Loic

kim.mulji - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with David Farrow

Dan Hostford - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/13 with George Hostford

Very delicate and balancy
Montecore - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Ben Simpkins

rfdl100 - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Ben

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Sion

Didn't have the confidence (or enough micros) to do it first time, so lowered off a sketchy small nut. Came back with more gear and flashed it.
Edvenables - Lead RP - Aug/13 with Eleanor Dow

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Jul/13

Andrew1 - 2nd - 12/Jul/13 with Hulda

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/13

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Aileen

kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/13 with Kathrin Rochlitz, Chris Higton

pete1993 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Ben

as easy as I remember. soft E1?
benkelsey - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/13 with Pete Briggs

Matt Harle - 12/Jun/13

RachelP - 2nd - 06/Jun/13

coffeepot - 2nd β - 25/May/13 with notgnarly, jelaby

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/May/13

Dan Hostford - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

Cool climbing. Hung around on crux placing gear as I mistakenly thought it was coming up.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Aidan Sullivan

Dan Hostford - Lead O/S - 04/May/13

With John Moran. Lovely climbing but over far too soon. Belayed halfway then soloed the second half.
Daniel Heath - AltLd O/S - 03/May/13

twilkinson-dix - Lead - May/13 with dave parker

dan ely - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13 with jon (ukc reading)

Hidden - Apr/13

Jay-Ast - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/12 with Rosyk

Rosyk - 2nd dog - 15/Nov/12 with Jay astbury

dale.young - TR rpt - 05/Sep/12

hazeysunshine - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Lionel, Jane

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

Warm up - hard on toes
Jams Crwca - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/12 with themadbrown

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/12

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 26/May/12 with Peter Rigby

Nice steady route, with runout climbing, loose rock at top!!
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Joss Jones

jossjones - 2nd - 23/May/12

First E2, very happy.
bigglesbutcha - Lead O/S - 18/May/12 with rob hunt

Jams Crwca - Lead - 16/May/12 with Lee

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/May/12

Hidden - Solo rpt - 04/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - May/12

mullermn - TR O/S - 28/Apr/12 with Kylie Richards

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

First E2 at last.
steven - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Fiona, Paul Horabin

Ralphus - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Karl Gregory

paul horabin - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12

Second E2 (first was the day before). The first part is the hardest, sustained up to where it steepens then eases off. Run-out after the overlap but the climbing is easy.
UnkArl - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Ralph, Rik

Big Rik - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Karl Gregory

Amazing climb. Thin on gear for the first section- took a while to build the courage.
hutchay - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Tom

Superb. Don't be put off by the Loose Rock symbol, not loose at all!
TommityP - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Gavin

A little soft, but very good climb. Very safe with small gear.
funsized - Lead O/S - Apr/12

Rob_Webster - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Nov/11

Caspar - Lead - 11/Aug/11 with Simon Reynolds

Caspar - 2nd - 11/Aug/11 with Simon Reynolds

Failed on this day before Catrin born, April '99. Really enjoyed it this time.
Tim Sparrow - Lead - 29/Jul/11 with Ian Owen

A few interesting runouts, but definitely very soft for the grade
jonny taylor - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/11 with Andy K

alberttcone - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with jonny taylor

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 23/Jul/11

markalmack - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11 with jacqui savage

Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Sandy Holford

dansmonkeytroubles - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Dave Williams

Loved it! great fun, bit sparse on the foot holds
Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/11 with Edmundmorris

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with David

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 25/May/11

Very thin in the crack with only smears for feet. Make sure your calves are strong !!
Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Stephen Jennings

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/May/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/May/11

Jams Crwca - Lead rpt - 14/May/11 with themadbrown

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Apr/11

felt easy for E2. good gear and not particularly sustained 5a.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11 with Remus Knowles

excellent balancy climbing, well protected feeling more like E1 5b.
nia - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

robinsi197 - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with Piotr, Nick

Swirly - 2nd dog - 23/Apr/11 with Eddie

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd rpt - 18/Apr/11 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/11

Guy Neal - 2nd - 22/Jan/11

scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 2011 with Caspian

Rory Shaw - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Fine sunny morning. Climb protected by shunt on double rope. Found it very straight forward but you have to be confident on small footholds.
Chris M Thomas - TR rpt - 09/Sep/10

Start felt tough, probably better to have feet in the crack not your hands! Super soft after that though...which was a shame, better if it had continued being a bit harder.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Becca

Balancy.
BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/10

david morse - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/10 with siobhan, chris todd

jonny_098 - TR O/S - 07/Sep/10 with Robin Head

Jams Crwca - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/10 with themadbrown

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

Turns out I should have led this! Nice route, but this cannot possibly be E2 by the standards of any other crag. Reasonably sustained slabby 5b with protection = benchmark E1.
jonny taylor - TR O/S - 13/Aug/10

Aerondt - 2nd O/S - Aug/10 with Gaz

owiowz - 2nd - 26/Jul/10

Robin Head - TR O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Johnny H, Sian G

good climb hard start nice rib finish E2
Gwilym 'ledge' Jones - 2nd - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10

adam coxsell - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with conor

Hidden - Lead β - 15/Jun/10

Dan_Carroll - Lead dnf - 30/May/10 with Dan Hancock

Danhan - 2nd - 30/May/10 with Dan Carroll

Chief Wench - 2nd O/S - 02/May/10 with Remus

hardoreVdiffBen - 2nd O/S - 01/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

Byronius Maximus - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Alex Twist

Twisty - 2nd O/S - 01/May/10 with Byron Buck

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with James P

jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Mark

on a warm spring Sunday! Beautiful
RobRock84 - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/10 with Steve Quinton

Good route, but E1 and technically easier than the HVS 5a on the left-hand slab.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with arthur

ian d f - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/10 with Grace Chuchla

Great climbing,crux about 30ft up enjoyable route
RobRock84 - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/09 with Steve Quinton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/09

Same as with Uncertain smile. Got scared on the unusual rock and thinness of it all and let Tim lead through.
mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with Tim Jepson

great route
scorpia97 - Lead rpt - 25/May/09 with Paul

Really nice climbing!
MorganPreece - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Andy Cummings

2nd time. Held my attention. Lovely delicate climbing. Plenty of gear.
Swotson - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/09 with Ian Athroll

Holly R - TR - Apr/09 with Colin

Caspar - 2nd - 18/Feb/09 with scorpia97

scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/09 with Caspian

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/Sep/08

Is this really E2, I'm sure i followed the line in the guide but it felt dead easy. The top steeper part looks hard from below but it fact has huge holds.
chris sm - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with Pippa Froggatt

One rest low down ~ 3 meters in (too hot)
ASchwirtz - Lead dog - 09/Jun/08 with Ian (UBMC)

BenJacobs - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/08 with Nick

Meg Jones - 2nd O/S - 24/May/08 with Tim Griffin

bfreeman - Lead O/S - 04/May/08 with Tim Marjot

tlmarjot - 2nd O/S - 01/May/08 with Ben Freeman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Nov/07

First non-grit E2 ? Felt quite thin and sustained low down, followed by a pleasant romp higher up
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Dave J

Beautiful slab - led without problem, although thin in places
Swotson - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Ian Athroll

crag_monster - Lead - Jun/06

Marq - 2nd O/S - 29/May/06 with Daniel Dennehy

Hidden - Lead - 2006

cem - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/05 with James Gill

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/05

Andrew1 - TR - 20/Aug/04 with Juliet Parker Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/03

Hidden - 2003

craig h - Lead - Aug/02

Hidden - Lead - May/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

belay bunny turned bad - 2000

alan moore - 2000

Graham Iles - Lead - 21/Aug/98 with Jenny Tweedy

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - 23/May/98 with Nick Hanie

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 02/May/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Maddie, Skullfire, Hidden, kim.mulji, TomLanc, RFWilkie, Hidden, iksander, sweenyt, Owen W-G, Hidden, Hidden, Ropeboy, Carl Smethurst

Voting
Total votes cast 124
hard E30 of 42
E30 of 42
easy E31 of 42
hard E22 of 42
E224 of 42
easy E29 of 42
hard E14 of 42
E12 of 42
easy E10 of 42
hard 5c0 of 43
5c0 of 43
easy 5c1 of 43
hard 5b3 of 43
5b33 of 43
easy 5b4 of 43
hard 5a2 of 43
5a0 of 43
easy 5a0 of 43
3 Stars6 of 39
2 Stars24 of 39
1 Star9 of 39
0 Stars0 of 39
Bag of .....0 of 39
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 173 (1.2%)
Lead89 of 173 (51.4%)
Followed62 of 173 (35.8%)
Toproped10 of 173 (5.8%)
Alt Leads1 of 173 (0.6%)
Unknown9 of 173 (5.2%)

'Climbed'40 of 173 (23.1%)
clean O/S99 of 173 (57.2%)
clean β3 of 173 (1.7%)
clean rpt21 of 173 (12.1%)
clean RP1 of 173 (0.6%)
dogged6 of 173 (3.5%)
dnf3 of 173 (1.7%)