Clwyd > Dinbren Crags >
 
Insomnia*** 8b

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One of the hardest routes in Clwyd. Harder since the loss of a hold at the start and probably better, 8a+ or maybe just about 8b??
FA. Pete Chadwick June 2005
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

The siege has ended; even today the top crimp was damp and needed brushing 5min before the successful redpoint. 8RP's in total split over 4 sessions and 2 further sessions to work it all out.
Ally Smith - Lead RP - 20/Aug/13 with Clarkey, Owens, Spidey & Matty

Wet hold = fail, but got new minor beta tweak in using smaller but more positive LH crimp instead of ripple and then rocking onto top of chalked pinch to get the jug
Ally Smith - Lead dog - 16/Aug/13 with Doylo

so close - 3 RPs - last one ended with me tickling the finishing jug
Ally Smith - Lead dog - 10/Aug/13 with Grant Brewer

1 dogging go & 2 redpoints, both falling at the (damp) crimpy flake. Last fall was nasty and bashed heel. It's on!
Ally Smith - Lead dog - 06/Aug/13 with Luke Owens

Couldn't do the top move due to the super humid conditions, but worked out a better way of setting up for the crux. Repeated bottom 7c/+ bit twice whilst working despite breaking hold next the 2nd bolt.
Ally Smith - Lead dog - 10/Jul/13 with AJM, Matt Donnelly

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Jul/13

Boosh! All the moves and some long links (ground to crux). Great heel hooking sequence on the top section. Two 7A+/B sections (?) split by a few moves on better holds in the middle.
Ally Smith - Lead dog - 03/Jul/13 with jimmykay

Techers, but not impossible. Think some minor beta tweaks should make this possible. The start is another matter though? 7c my arse!
Ally Smith - TR dog - 10/May/13 with Mr Shunt

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mattlamb90, daveayton, Ed Booth

Voting
Total votes cast 17
hard 8b+0 of 9
8b+0 of 9
easy 8b+0 of 9
hard 8b0 of 9
8b3 of 9
easy 8b0 of 9
hard 8a+6 of 9
8a+0 of 9
easy 8a+0 of 9
3 Stars5 of 8
2 Stars1 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....2 of 8
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