Gwynedd > Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog) >
 
Myomancy HVS 5b

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Falling Block Crack >>
[Crux of Myomancy , 3 kb]Turn the big overhang on the right then pull over the overlap using a strenuous fingerlock in the above crack to reach easier ground.

Photo: Crux of Myomancy © tompilgrem
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 178 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

vinspin - 2nd rpt - 22/May/13 with kiarian

Lovely bloke called Paul gave me a belay on his half ropes. Chickened out and stepped left into the easier crack to get stood up before stepping back right. I'll be back to do it right.
woody0606 - Lead - 21/May/13

Hidden - TR - 20/May/13

Simon Merrall - TR - 20/May/13 with Rob Wymer

joedoherty - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Steve Knaggs

Gareth T - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Jane

joeflan - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

samjames91 - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Emma Smith

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13

andrewlyons14 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13

Hidden - TR - 20/Mar/13

katiep - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Sian Gardiner

Broom136 - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/13 with Joe Wilkin-Oxley

MikeLell - TR O/S - 10/Nov/12

One move wonder, but what a move!
neuromancer - TR O/S - 10/Nov/12

Broom136 - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/12 with Mike

Led after top roping. Difficult to place gear at crux, so ran it out. Placed about 3 pieces in total!
MikeLell - Lead β - 10/Nov/12

From the right of the slab, traversed out left using the horizontal crack and climbed direct up the face past the overlap. Certainly felt like HVS, seems like there are a few theories on the exact route to take. Part of SPA training
JimboWizbo - TR O/S - 27/Oct/12

b.west(hampshire) - Lead β - 20/Oct/12

riff156 - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/12 with Alex Falconer

Dom Cordner - TR O/S - 22/Sep/12

bleakned - TR - 22/Sep/12 with Steve

Steve Wakeford - TR - 22/Sep/12

mattparratt - Lead - 21/Jul/12

good climb with a bridge at the start, tricky finger traverse,
spags88 - TR - 13/Jul/12 with gary mitchell

Tricky finger traverse, Climbed in the wet
Gary Mitchell - TR O/S - 13/Jul/12 with Ash Sleight

Swsloper - 12/Jul/12

Another good route short 5b section and very safe HVS 5b perfect grade. Anna wasn't very happy with me on this one she went up the VS to the side of it instead and got the gear out. Then beat me up at the top :)
Dale - Lead O/S - Jul/12 with Anna

Ceridwen - 2nd β - 26/May/12 with Pete Milner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/12

Hidden - TR - 26/May/12

Mick Cassidy - TR - 26/May/12 with Shirley Leith

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/12

Single pitch
Robert.harden - TR O/S - 02/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/12

rockfax route
arandall - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/12 with arandall

Good climb. Went straight up the face. Its def a hard 5b move over the lip. Manged to do it without using the easy crack to the left.
Kevin Robert Jones - Lead - 26/Mar/12 with Tomos Davies

Andy_B39 - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Matt

BenRyle - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Jan/12

As an instructor. Needed to use assisted hoist without view of the second. Good experience.
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/11

DaveMo - 2nd - 04/Dec/11

Slick - 2nd - 13/Nov/11 with David Martinez Majo

Fun moves. Soft 5b if you get the sequence right.
Poco Loco - 2nd - 13/Nov/11 with David M

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11

UncleMephisto - Lead O/S - Nov/11 with Tom Morgan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/11

Alex.M-M. - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

CM1992 - 2nd - 16/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Sep/11

had a go with a bottom rope good climb
stevens744 - TR O/S - 07/Sep/11 with Turner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11

Gerrard - TR O/S - 13/Aug/11

Jayboy - Lead - 07/Aug/11

Hidden - TR - 04/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11

ruaidh - 2nd - 31/Jul/11 with Phil

Nice moves across the slab and best done with the direct finish. Brilliant. Not 5b though.
wild_nomad - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Paul Day

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/11

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with john beardmore

Teddys15 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Jill Reinsch

Jillybean - 2nd - 05/Jun/11 with Martyn

JezH - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Jordan Senior

Richard Kemble - Lead O/S - 31/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/11

willoates - Lead O/S - 27/May/11

Wil Treasure - TR - 17/May/11

Work Training - Testing rock shoes etc...
31770 - TR O/S - 17/May/11

worth a star for first half
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with toad, julie, lulu

steven - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Adi

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/11

SteWatkins - Apr/11

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - Apr/11 with rodney greenfield

happy_c - TR - 22/Mar/11

Jackspratt - TR O/S - 22/Mar/11

TomMorgan - TR O/S - 19/Mar/11

Tom Downes - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with nick evens

Followed line in rockfax guide, didnt feel like HVS
nickevens - Lead β - 06/Mar/11 with Tom downes

Hidden - TR - 05/Mar/11

Glyn Davidson - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/11 with Hollie

jakelodge - Lead dog - 27/Feb/11 with Jack Brougham

Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/11 with Jake Lodge

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Feb/11

Stepanek - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/11

Climbed slab and pulled through on fingerlocks to flat ledge, then bugged out onto the VS, so depending on which guidebook you look at, not sure if I can claim it or not.
HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Danny Bucknole

chedder - 2nd - 20/Feb/11 with HIGHTOWER

Really balancy start with little protection and then a really cool move out onto slab.
Matt Smith - TR O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Jen Jones

Hidden - TR dnf - 12/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

matthias13 - 2nd - 20/Nov/10 with wirralclimber1984

harold walmsley - 2nd O/S - 20/Nov/10 with Colin Struthers

Tricky but loved it – great route!
spalice - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/10 with Jack Pyle, Gwen

minirollsrule - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with matt reynolds

Sweet move going across slab. Think guidebook has it right at HVS 5B, but easy 5B. Just balancy move getting across slab until you fiddle in a wire in the left crack. Definately easier than it looks from below, classic tremadog!
tompilgrem - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Donald, golly, Dad

Great Lead by Tom. Bold HVS without the high cam side runner.
bobpilgrem - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Bob/Tom

Awesome
vertigo714 - Lead RP - Oct/10 with James Taylor

alexanderjwatts - TR - 28/Sep/10

Followed the line in the North Wales 'Pokketz' guide which is completely different to the line in the Tremadog guide??
SGD - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Vicky Holmes

B-bop - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Olly, Jake

Good little giggle this
Ander - Lead - 15/Aug/10 with Ben

vinspin - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with bob dickson

Hidden - TR dog - 04/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/10

Dave Bowler - Lead O/S - Aug/10

McGuinness - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Lauren

groovy_nut - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Sion

Bex_M - 2nd - 17/Jul/10 with Ewan Buckingham

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/10

Hidden - TR - 13/Jun/10

ritchierich - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/10 with Owen Jones, Steve Joynson

mick1jones - 2nd dog - 06/Jun/10 with Alex Wellings

Gerallt Owain - TR O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Steve Chapman

stevechaps1 - TR - 06/Jun/10 with Gerallt Owain

chri55ie - TR - 31/May/10 with Ronnie Jones, Sue whittle

Marc-G - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with CharlieJ

Ed Feldman - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

Hidden - Lead - May/10

rovers777 - Lead RP - 28/Apr/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 17/Apr/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 17/Apr/10

edpd1b - Mar/10 with Will kilgore

Dean Scott - Lead dnf - 07/Feb/10

Going for the lead next time
Dean Scott - TR - 07/Feb/10

Once again good fun
nadeem - Lead rpt - 22/Jan/10 with DLE

first climb. siiiiiick
dlyonsewing - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/10 with nadeem al-kafaji

simeclimb68 - 2010

peter myers - Lead β - 2010 with Sally Lisle

Ollie Wragg - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Alison Reed

thecurlyone - TR O/S - 17/Oct/09

nice climb, in guide it says go out right and step onto face, this is the route i took, as much harder therefore qualifying the grade
LITTLE SAM - Lead - Oct/09 with Phil Wilkinson

peter myers - Lead - Sep/09

Dizz - TR - 29/Jun/09 with Joe W

Hidden - TR O/S - 27/Jun/09

Awesome moves
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Swain16

Swain16 - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Rich Cannel

allanfarrell - 2nd O/S - 05/May/09 with Emma Turnbull

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09

cavemancolumbus - Lead - Apr/09 with Jo

nadeem - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/09 with Aaron Crawley

crawa003 - 2nd - Feb/09 with Nadeem Al-Khafaji

Sally Lisle - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - TR O/S - 26/Oct/08

Hidden - TR RP - 26/Oct/08

Hidden - TR O/S - 04/Aug/08

tontopink - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/08

willson - 2nd - Jul/08 with Phil Stubbs

thompson1000 - 2nd - 16/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jun/08

AntWallace - Lead O/S - May/08 with Chris and Andy

with hoyle rich ed gg
johniebriggs - TR - Apr/08

Bypassed the crux because I'm an idiot.
Flax - Lead - 19/Dec/07 with Ariadne Whitby

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/07

Extremely thin moves
My Gravity - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Simon S

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Nov/06

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/06 with Jonny

good climb
01wills - 2nd O/S - Jul/06 with luke williams

sgl0jd - Lead - Jun/06 with Dave Davies

ritchierich - 2nd - 06/Mar/06 with Phil Taggart

Sam and will - TR O/S - Mar/06

maybe_si - Lead O/S - Nov/05

I was still learning when I TR'd this. Hopefully I'll get a chance to lead it properly ...
turnersi - TR O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead β - Aug/05

Brown - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/05

Hidden - 2005

M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 14/Nov/03

akhughes - Solo O/S - Apr/03

Hidden - 2002

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
MikeStuart26, Hidden, Mick Cassidy, ellmang, Ross.Cooper, Hidden, stephenarnold, Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Alan100, turnersi

Voting
Total votes cast 66
hard E10 of 31
E10 of 31
easy E11 of 31
hard HVS9 of 31
HVS18 of 31
easy HVS2 of 31
hard VS1 of 31
VS0 of 31
easy VS0 of 31
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
hard 5b2 of 9
5b5 of 9
easy 5b2 of 9
hard 5a0 of 9
5a0 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
3 Stars0 of 26
2 Stars15 of 26
1 Star10 of 26
0 Stars1 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 178 (0.6%)
Lead76 of 178 (42.7%)
Followed48 of 178 (27.0%)
Toproped43 of 178 (24.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 178 (0.6%)
Unknown9 of 178 (5.1%)

'Climbed'64 of 178 (36.0%)
clean O/S92 of 178 (51.7%)
clean β6 of 178 (3.4%)
clean rpt6 of 178 (3.4%)
clean RP3 of 178 (1.7%)
dogged4 of 178 (2.2%)
dnf3 of 178 (1.7%)