Rockfax Description
A tricky start leads to easier ground. Follow the corner to the square-cut roof. Turn the overhang on the right, then move back left and tackle the tough finger-crack. Finish more easily up Madog. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Turn the big overhang on the right then pull over the overlap using a strenuous fingerlock in the above crack to reach easier ground.

jalqazzaz 23/May 2nd
Hidden 14/May Lead rpt
rachelpearce01 14/May 2nd
Sidderspti 05/May TR O/S
Wilkie210685 04/May TR O/S
Hidden 14/Feb TR rpt
Hidden 14/Feb TR O/S
Craigpinch 03/Nov/15 -
robertmctague 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Theo
robertmctague 18/Oct/15 Solo rpt
with Theo
Henry Swandale 17/Oct/15 TR β
rushy11111918 16/Oct/15 TR
Daly3174 13/Oct/15 TR
bantamdave 12/Sep/15 2nd dog
with Will
Dave Cale 30/Aug/15 Lead β
with Craig
Keith Swainson 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Georgie
Georgie25 27/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
hotfeet 19/Jul/15 Lead dog

Avoided the crux by moving left onto the adjacent climb.

MarkRoe 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Dan Miller
nodwas 16/Jun/15 Lead
static266 03/Jun/15 2nd dog
jalqazzaz 03/Jun/15 Lead dog
EllieWoods 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with Cameron
Dave192939 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Followed North Wales Classics all the way across the break, and took a line that felt about VS 4b.

with Simon Allan
Michael Bonallie 09/May/15 TR O/S
Wiley 27/Apr/15 Lead
GStone 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Marcus Harvey
PatrickEnglish 24/Mar/15 TR O/S
SJPowderham1 24/Mar/15 -
Hidden 22/Mar/15 TR O/S
John1458 15/Feb/15 TR dog
HazelMacLean 14/Feb/15 TR

Probably a good thing I didn't lead this, hell of a move after onto the finger crack. Would have been scary!

with Owen Diba, UBMC
Charlie Low 07/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Steven1993 07/Feb/15 Lead G/U

Slipped out of the finger crack after the hard part was done, pulled the ropes through and went to the top.

peaterpan 07/Feb/15 Lead dog

Thought I would give it a crack at the end of a beautiful day. Sat on gear after getting pumped pulling into the finger crack. Finished the route on second attempt, but wish I had pulled the ropes and given it a second crack. Another time.

BushwackerBritz ??/2015 -
suds_01 ??/2015 -
gazace21 ?/Nov/14 TR O/S
08nbrierley 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with charlie
deanhorsburgh 18/Sep/14 TR O/S
jordangolding 18/Sep/14 TR
lewiswilson 16/Sep/14 TR O/S
wixy 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/14 TR dnf
jeremyftaylor 11/Aug/14 TR dnf
Hidden 11/Jun/14 Lead
Johnny Rowland ?/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Jacob Hodge 95 18/Apr/14 TR
with peter chapman
Hidden 24/Mar/14 Lead
spidermonkey09 11/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Pinguville 01/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with George
Joe.Howlett 27/Sep/13 TR O/S
DanCClayton 27/Sep/13 TR

RCF AT Week in Snowdonia Sept 13

Ash_Johnson 26/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/13 TR O/S
Pete_Frost 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Completely baffled me. Had to escape to the left before traversing back right above the break. How does this get HVS?

npanderson 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Lovely, lovely route! Delicate moves on the lower slab are a delight. Traversing under the overhang is surprisingly easy - just get your footwork right.

reece.robinson 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Paul Eckton
Paul Eckton 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with reece.robinson
Hidden 05/Jun/13 TR dnf
Hidden 05/Jun/13 TR dog
tdoyle 05/Jun/13 TR dog
da_cox 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Very nice route and very rewarding.

andrew549 03/Jun/13 2nd
with da_cox
ali mccalli 30/May/13 2nd
Alex Riley 30/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ali McAli
jimmysdead 30/May/13 Lead O/S
with Emma
vinspin 22/May/13 2nd rpt
woody0606 21/May/13 Lead

Lovely bloke called Paul gave me a belay on his half ropes. Chickened out and stepped left into the easier crack to get stood up before stepping back right. I'll be back to do it right.

Hidden 20/May/13 TR
Hidden 20/May/13 TR
joedoherty 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Gareth T 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jane Woulds
joeflan 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Keelan McNulty 02/Apr/13 TR O/S
Samuel Wainwright 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Emma Smith
Hidden 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S
andrewlyons14 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/13 TR
katiep 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Sian Gardiner
RossCallender ?/Mar/13 TR
Broom136 16/Feb/13 Lead rpt
with Joe Wilkin-Oxley
jade Edwards Leaney ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
MikeLell 10/Nov/12 TR O/S
neuromancer 10/Nov/12 TR O/S

One move wonder, but what a move!

Broom136 10/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Mike
MikeLell 10/Nov/12 Lead β

Led after top roping. Difficult to place gear at crux, so ran it out. Placed about 3 pieces in total!

JimboWizbo 27/Oct/12 TR O/S

From the right of the slab, traversed out left using the horizontal crack and climbed direct up the face past the overlap. Certainly felt like HVS, seems like there are a few theories on the exact route to take. Part of SPA training

bede.west 20/Oct/12 Lead β
riff156 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Falconer
Dom Cordner 22/Sep/12 TR O/S
bleakned 22/Sep/12 TR
with Steve
Steve Wakeford 22/Sep/12 TR
mattparratt 21/Jul/12 Lead
spags88 13/Jul/12 TR

good climb with a bridge at the start, tricky finger traverse,

with gary mitchell
Hidden 13/Jul/12 TR O/S
Swsloper 12/Jul/12 -
Dale ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Another good route short 5b section and very safe HVS 5b perfect grade. Anna wasn't very happy with me on this one she went up the VS to the side of it instead and got the gear out. Then beat me up at the top :)

with Anna
Ceridwen 26/May/12 2nd β
with Pete Milner
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 TR
Hidden 26/May/12 TR
Hidden 25/May/12 2nd
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead
Robert.harden 02/May/12 TR O/S

Single pitch

Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd
arandall 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S

rockfax route

Wendy Watthews 05/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Kevin Robert Jones 26/Mar/12 Lead

Good climb. Went straight up the face. Its def a hard 5b move over the lip. Manged to do it without using the easy crack to the left.

Andy_B39 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Matt
BenRyle 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 Lead dog
uphillnow ??/2012 2nd

date approximate

Daniel Heath 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

As an instructor. Needed to use assisted hoist without view of the second. Good experience.

DaveMo 04/Dec/11 2nd
Slick 13/Nov/11 2nd
Poco Loco 13/Nov/11 2nd

Fun moves. Soft 5b if you get the sequence right.

with David M
chrisallan 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
UncleMephisto ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Alex.M-M. 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
CM1992 16/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead dnf
stevens744 07/Sep/11 TR O/S

had a go with a bottom rope good climb

with Turner
Hidden 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Gerrard 13/Aug/11 TR O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/11 TR
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S
ruaidh 31/Jul/11 2nd
with Phil
wild_nomad 25/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Nice moves across the slab and best done with the direct finish. Brilliant. Not 5b though.

with Paul Day
Hidden 29/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd
jon_gill1 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
JWB 18/Jun/11 2nd
Noodles 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Jillybean 05/Jun/11 2nd
with Martyn
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Richard Kemble 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/11 2nd
willoates 27/May/11 Lead O/S
drysori 17/May/11 TR
31770 17/May/11 TR O/S

Work Training - Testing rock shoes etc...

wolf.leeb 01/May/11 Lead O/S

worth a star for first half

with toad, julie, lulu
steven 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Adi
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead
SteWatkins ?/Apr/11 -
Michael Allday ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with rodney greenfield
happy_c 22/Mar/11 TR
Jackspratt 22/Mar/11 TR O/S
TomMorgan 19/Mar/11 TR O/S
Tom Downes 06/Mar/11 2nd
nickevens 06/Mar/11 Lead β

Followed line in rockfax guide, didnt feel like HVS

Hidden 05/Mar/11 TR
Glyn Davidson 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Hollie
thetradlad 27/Feb/11 Lead dog
Harry Thorpe 27/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Feb/11 2nd
Stepanek 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Climbed slab and pulled through on fingerlocks to flat ledge, then bugged out onto the VS, so depending on which guidebook you look at, not sure if I can claim it or not.

chedder 20/Feb/11 2nd
Matt Smith 12/Feb/11 TR O/S

Really balancy start with little protection and then a really cool move out onto slab.

Hidden 12/Feb/11 TR dnf
Hidden 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
matt0759 20/Nov/10 2nd
harold walmsley 20/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with Colin Struthers
spalice 10/Nov/10 2nd O/S

Tricky but loved it great route!

with Jack Pyle, Gwen
minirollsrule 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with matt reynolds
tompilgrem 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Sweet move going across slab. Think guidebook has it right at HVS 5B, but easy 5B. Just balancy move getting across slab until you fiddle in a wire in the left crack. Definately easier than it looks from below, classic tremadog!

with Donald, golly, Dad
bobpilgrem 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Great Lead by Tom. Bold HVS without the high cam side runner.

with Bob/Tom
james.slater ?/Oct/10 Lead RP


alexanderjwatts 28/Sep/10 TR
SGD 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Followed the line in the North Wales 'Pokketz' guide which is completely different to the line in the Tremadog guide??

B-bop 18/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Olly, Jake
Ander 15/Aug/10 Lead

Good little giggle this

with Ben
vinspin 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with bob dickson
Hidden 04/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Dave Bowler ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
McGuinness 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Lauren
groovy_nut 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Sion
Bex_M 17/Jul/10 2nd
with Ewan Buckingham
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jun/10 TR
ritchierich 11/Jun/10 2nd rpt
mick1jones 06/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Alex Wellings
Gerallt Owain 06/Jun/10 TR O/S
stevechaps1 06/Jun/10 TR
chri55ie 31/May/10 TR
with Ronnie Jones, Sue whittle
Marc-G 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with CharlieJ
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
C Mclean 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with dave robinson
Lunar25 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
rovers777 28/Apr/10 Lead RP
Slaney 17/Apr/10 TR O/S

Interesting traverse but enjoyable

munki1971 17/Apr/10 TR O/S
edpd1b ?/Mar/10 -
with Will kilgore
Dean Scott 07/Feb/10 Lead dnf
Dean Scott 07/Feb/10 TR

Going for the lead next time

nadeem 22/Jan/10 Lead rpt

Once again good fun

with DLE
Hidden 22/Jan/10 2nd O/S
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
peter myers ??/2010 Lead β
with Sally Lisle
Hidden ??/2010 TR
Ollie Wragg 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Alison Reed
thecurlyone 17/Oct/09 TR O/S
LITTLE SAM ?/Oct/09 Lead

nice climb, in guide it says go out right and step onto face, this is the route i took, as much harder therefore qualifying the grade

with Phil Wilkinson
peter myers ?/Sep/09 Lead
Dizz 29/Jun/09 TR
with Joe W
Hidden 27/Jun/09 TR O/S
smallerrich 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Awesome moves

with Swain16
JDSwain 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Rich Cannel
allanfarrell 05/May/09 2nd O/S
with Emma Turnbull
lost.arrow 03/May/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
cavemancolumbus ?/Apr/09 Lead
with Jo
nadeem 09/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Aaron Crawley
crawa003 ?/Feb/09 2nd
with Nadeem Al-Khafaji
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 26/Oct/08 TR O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/08 TR RP
Kate Edhouse 04/Aug/08 TR O/S
with Luke (brenin)
tontopink 30/Jul/08 Lead O/S
willson ?/Jul/08 2nd
thompson1000 16/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/08 2nd
AntWallace ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Chris and Andy
johniebriggs ?/Apr/08 TR

with hoyle rich ed gg

Flax 19/Dec/07 Lead

Bypassed the crux because I'm an idiot.

with Ariadne Whitby
Hidden 07/Jun/07 2nd
My Gravity 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Extremely thin moves

with Simon S
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden 11/Nov/06 Lead rpt
Dan 85 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Jonny
01wills ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S

good climb

with luke williams
sgl0jd ?/Jun/06 Lead
with Dave Davies
ritchierich 06/Mar/06 2nd
Sam and will ?/Mar/06 TR O/S
maybe_si ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
turnersi ?/Aug/05 TR O/S

I was still learning when I TR'd this. Hopefully I'll get a chance to lead it properly ...

Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead β
Brown 23/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
M_W_Court 14/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
akhughes ?/Apr/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, sparkybatteryboy, adamre12, ms26g10, climbEdclimb, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, ellmang, Hidden, stephenarnold, Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Alan100, turnersi
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 40
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set