Myomancy** HVS 5b
[brixton climber in Wales.tremadog, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A tricky start leads to easier ground. Follow the corner to the square-cut roof. Turn the overhang on the right, then move back left and tackle the tough finger-crack. Finish more easily up Madog. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Turn the big overhang on the right then pull over the overlap using a strenuous fingerlock in the above crack to reach easier ground.

Photo: brixton climber in Wales.tremadog © brixton climber
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 229 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

nodwas - Lead - 16/Jun/15

EllieWoods - 2nd O/S - 25/May/15 with Cameron

Followed North Wales Classics all the way across the break, and took a line that felt about VS 4b.
Dave192939 - Lead O/S - 24/May/15 with Simon Allan

Michael Bonallie - TR O/S - 09/May/15

Wiley - 27/Apr/15

GStone - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/15 with Marcus Harvey

PatrickEnglish - TR O/S - 24/Mar/15

Hidden - TR O/S - 22/Mar/15

John1458 - TR dog - 15/Feb/15

Probably a good thing I didn't lead this, hell of a move after onto the finger crack. Would have been scary!
HazelMacLean - TR - 14/Feb/15 with Owen Diba, UBMC

charlielow - 2nd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Steven Thomas

Slipped out of the finger crack after the hard part was done, pulled the ropes through and went to the top.
Steven1993 - Lead RP - 07/Feb/15 with Amy Hare

Thought I would give it a crack at the end of a beautiful day. Sat on gear after getting pumped pulling into the finger crack. Finished the route on second attempt, but wish I had pulled the ropes and given it a second crack. Another time.
peaterpan - Lead dog - 07/Feb/15

BushwackerBritz - 2015

08nbrierley - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/14 with charlie

deanhorsburgh - TR O/S - 18/Sep/14

jordangolding - TR - 18/Sep/14

lewiswilson - TR O/S - 16/Sep/14

wixy - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14

Hidden - TR dnf - 18/Aug/14

jeremyftaylor - TR dnf - 11/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/14

Johnny Rowland - Lead O/S - May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/14

Jacob Hodge 95 - TR - 18/Apr/14 with peter chapman

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/14

spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/13

Pinguville - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/13 with George

Joe.Howlett - TR O/S - 27/Sep/13

RCF AT Week in Snowdonia Sept 13
DanCClayton - TR - 27/Sep/13

Ash_Johnson - Lead RP - 26/Sep/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/Sep/13

Completely baffled me. Had to escape to the left before traversing back right above the break. How does this get HVS?
Pete_Frost - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/13

Lovely, lovely route! Delicate moves on the lower slab are a delight. Traversing under the overhang is surprisingly easy - just get your footwork right.
npanderson - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13

reece.robinson - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Paul Eckton

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with reece.robinson

Hidden - TR dnf - 05/Jun/13

Hidden - TR dog - 05/Jun/13

tdoyle - TR dog - 05/Jun/13

Very nice route and very rewarding.
da_cox - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with andrew549

ali mccalli - 2nd - 30/May/13 with Alex Riley

Alex Riley - Lead O/S - 30/May/13 with Ali McAli

vinspin - 2nd rpt - 22/May/13 with kieran19

Lovely bloke called Paul gave me a belay on his half ropes. Chickened out and stepped left into the easier crack to get stood up before stepping back right. I'll be back to do it right.
woody0606 - Lead - 21/May/13

Hidden - TR - 20/May/13

Hidden - TR - 20/May/13

joedoherty - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Steve Knaggs

Gareth T - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Jane Woulds

joeflan - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

Keelan McNulty - TR O/S - 02/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13

andrewlyons14 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13

Hidden - TR - 20/Mar/13

katiep - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Sian Gardiner

RossCallender - TR - Mar/13

Broom136 - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/13 with Joe Wilkin-Oxley

jade Edwards Leaney - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

MikeLell - TR O/S - 10/Nov/12

One move wonder, but what a move!
neuromancer - TR O/S - 10/Nov/12

Broom136 - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/12 with Mike

Led after top roping. Difficult to place gear at crux, so ran it out. Placed about 3 pieces in total!
MikeLell - Lead β - 10/Nov/12

From the right of the slab, traversed out left using the horizontal crack and climbed direct up the face past the overlap. Certainly felt like HVS, seems like there are a few theories on the exact route to take. Part of SPA training
JimboWizbo - TR O/S - 27/Oct/12

bede.west - Lead β - 20/Oct/12

riff156 - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/12 with Alex Falconer

Dom Cordner - TR O/S - 22/Sep/12

bleakned - TR - 22/Sep/12 with Steve

Steve Wakeford - TR - 22/Sep/12

mattparratt - Lead - 21/Jul/12

good climb with a bridge at the start, tricky finger traverse,
spags88 - TR - 13/Jul/12 with gary mitchell

Hidden - TR O/S - 13/Jul/12

Swsloper - 12/Jul/12

Another good route short 5b section and very safe HVS 5b perfect grade. Anna wasn't very happy with me on this one she went up the VS to the side of it instead and got the gear out. Then beat me up at the top :)
Dale - Lead O/S - Jul/12 with Anna

Ceridwen - 2nd β - 26/May/12 with Pete Milner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/12

Hidden - TR - 26/May/12

Mick Cassidy - TR - 26/May/12 with Shirley Leith

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/12

Single pitch
Robert.harden - TR O/S - 02/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/12

rockfax route
arandall - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/12 with arandall

Good climb. Went straight up the face. Its def a hard 5b move over the lip. Manged to do it without using the easy crack to the left.
Kevin Robert Jones - Lead - 26/Mar/12 with Tomos Davies

Andy_B39 - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Matt

BenRyle - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Jan/12

date approximate
uphillnow - 2nd - 2012

As an instructor. Needed to use assisted hoist without view of the second. Good experience.
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/11

DaveMo - 2nd - 04/Dec/11

Slick - 2nd - 13/Nov/11 with David Martinez Majo

Fun moves. Soft 5b if you get the sequence right.
Poco Loco - 2nd - 13/Nov/11 with David M

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11

UncleMephisto - Lead O/S - Nov/11 with Tom Morgan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/11

Alex.M-M. - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

CM1992 - 2nd - 16/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Sep/11

had a go with a bottom rope good climb
stevens744 - TR O/S - 07/Sep/11 with Turner

will909 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11

Gerrard - TR O/S - 13/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 07/Aug/11

Hidden - TR - 04/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11

ruaidh - 2nd - 31/Jul/11 with Phil

Nice moves across the slab and best done with the direct finish. Brilliant. Not 5b though.
wild_nomad - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Paul Day

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/11

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with john beardmore

Noodles - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Jill Reinsch

Jillybean - 2nd - 05/Jun/11 with Martyn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/11

Richard Kemble - Lead O/S - 31/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/11

willoates - Lead O/S - 27/May/11

drysori - TR - 17/May/11

Work Training - Testing rock shoes etc...
31770 - TR O/S - 17/May/11

worth a star for first half
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with toad, julie, lulu

steven - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Adi

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/11

SteWatkins - Apr/11

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - Apr/11 with rodney greenfield

happy_c - TR - 22/Mar/11

Jackspratt - TR O/S - 22/Mar/11

TomMorgan - TR O/S - 19/Mar/11

Tom Downes - 2nd - 06/Mar/11 with nick evens

Followed line in rockfax guide, didnt feel like HVS
nickevens - Lead β - 06/Mar/11 with Tom downes

Hidden - TR - 05/Mar/11

Glyn Davidson - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/11 with Hollie

thetradlad - Lead dog - 27/Feb/11 with Jack Brougham

Harry Thorpe - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/11 with Jake Lodge

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Feb/11

Stepanek - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/11

Climbed slab and pulled through on fingerlocks to flat ledge, then bugged out onto the VS, so depending on which guidebook you look at, not sure if I can claim it or not.
HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Danny Bucknole

chedder - 2nd - 20/Feb/11 with HIGHTOWER

Really balancy start with little protection and then a really cool move out onto slab.
Matt Smith - TR O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Jen Jones

Hidden - TR dnf - 12/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

matt0759 - 2nd - 20/Nov/10 with wirralclimber1984

harold walmsley - 2nd O/S - 20/Nov/10 with Colin Struthers

Tricky but loved it great route!
spalice - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/10 with Jack Pyle, Gwen

minirollsrule - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with matt reynolds

Sweet move going across slab. Think guidebook has it right at HVS 5B, but easy 5B. Just balancy move getting across slab until you fiddle in a wire in the left crack. Definately easier than it looks from below, classic tremadog!
tompilgrem - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Donald, golly, Dad

Great Lead by Tom. Bold HVS without the high cam side runner.
bobpilgrem - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Bob/Tom

Hidden - Lead RP - Oct/10

alexanderjwatts - TR - 28/Sep/10

Followed the line in the North Wales 'Pokketz' guide which is completely different to the line in the Tremadog guide??
SGD - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Vicky Holmes

B-bop - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Olly, Jake

Good little giggle this
Ander - Lead - 15/Aug/10 with Ben

vinspin - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with bob dickson

Hidden - TR dog - 04/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/10

Dave Bowler - Lead O/S - Aug/10

McGuinness - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Lauren

groovy_nut - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Sion

Bex_M - 2nd - 17/Jul/10 with Ewan Buckingham

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/10

Hidden - TR - 13/Jun/10

ritchierich - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/10 with Owen Jones, Steve Joynson

mick1jones - 2nd dog - 06/Jun/10 with Alex Wellings

Gerallt Owain - TR O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Steve Chapman

stevechaps1 - TR - 06/Jun/10 with Gerallt Owain

chri55ie - TR - 31/May/10 with Ronnie Jones, Sue whittle

Marc-G - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with CharlieJ

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

C Mclean - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with dave robinson

Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

Hidden - Lead - May/10

rovers777 - Lead RP - 28/Apr/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 17/Apr/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 17/Apr/10

edpd1b - Mar/10 with Will kilgore

Dean Scott - Lead dnf - 07/Feb/10

Going for the lead next time
Dean Scott - TR - 07/Feb/10

Once again good fun
nadeem - Lead rpt - 22/Jan/10 with DLE

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/10

simeclimb68 - 2010

peter myers - Lead β - 2010 with Sally Lisle

Hidden - TR - 2010

Ollie Wragg - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Alison Reed

thecurlyone - TR O/S - 17/Oct/09

nice climb, in guide it says go out right and step onto face, this is the route i took, as much harder therefore qualifying the grade
LITTLE SAM - Lead - Oct/09 with Phil Wilkinson

peter myers - Lead - Sep/09

Dizz - TR - 29/Jun/09 with Joe W

Hidden - TR O/S - 27/Jun/09

Awesome moves
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Swain16

JDSwain - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Rich Cannel

allanfarrell - 2nd O/S - 05/May/09 with Emma Turnbull

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09

cavemancolumbus - Lead - Apr/09 with Jo

nadeem - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/09 with Aaron Crawley

crawa003 - 2nd - Feb/09 with Nadeem Al-Khafaji

Sally Lisle - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - TR O/S - 26/Oct/08

Hidden - TR RP - 26/Oct/08

Kate Edhouse - TR O/S - 04/Aug/08 with Luke (brenin)

tontopink - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/08

willson - 2nd - Jul/08 with Phil Stubbs

thompson1000 - 2nd - 16/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jun/08

AntWallace - Lead O/S - May/08 with Chris and Andy

with hoyle rich ed gg
johniebriggs - TR - Apr/08

Bypassed the crux because I'm an idiot.
Flax - Lead - 19/Dec/07 with Ariadne Whitby

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/07

Extremely thin moves
My Gravity - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Simon S

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Nov/06

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/06 with Jonny

good climb
01wills - 2nd O/S - Jul/06 with luke williams

sgl0jd - Lead - Jun/06 with Dave Davies

ritchierich - 2nd - 06/Mar/06 with Phil Taggart

Sam and will - TR O/S - Mar/06

maybe_si - Lead O/S - Nov/05

I was still learning when I TR'd this. Hopefully I'll get a chance to lead it properly ...
turnersi - TR O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead β - Aug/05

Brown - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/05

Hidden - 2005

M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 14/Nov/03

akhughes - Solo O/S - Apr/03

Hidden - 2002

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
sparkybatteryboy, adamre12, ms26g10, climbEdclimb, Mick Cassidy, ellmang, stephenarnold, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Alan100, turnersi

Voting
Total votes cast 87
hard E10 of 38
E11 of 38
easy E11 of 38
hard HVS10 of 38
HVS23 of 38
easy HVS2 of 38
hard VS1 of 38
VS0 of 38
easy VS0 of 38
hard 5c0 of 17
5c1 of 17
easy 5c0 of 17
hard 5b2 of 17
5b9 of 17
easy 5b5 of 17
hard 5a0 of 17
5a0 of 17
easy 5a0 of 17
3 Stars1 of 32
2 Stars19 of 32
1 Star11 of 32
0 Stars1 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
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