Restricted Access
Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:
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No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.
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Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.
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Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.
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Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.
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Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.
Rockfax Description
Not very popular due to the logistical challenges of the landing. From a flat hold, climb the arete! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
f6C/7A. If this problem wasn't so awkward to pad out, it would get a couple of stars. Great movement! The arete to the right of The Predator Monster starting with both hands on the flat(ish) hold on the arete.
Tom Rainbow.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bovey Woods
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99 Problems
Grade: f6C+ ***
(East Side Boulders)