An excellent direct through the traverse of Excalibur. Start by the lake at the same point as Portcullis. The steep juggy rib leads to a flake/crack in a niche. Exit up the left rib to below the roof. Traverse left to the cave on Excalibur (below its flake). Use a good hanging ledge and break on the right to inaugurate moves up the shallow scoop, passing a very sharp pocket (clue - tape the index finger of your left hand) that is used to reach the break. Swing across to a small foothold on the right. Pull past a pocket on the wall to gain another break and then past two more to the summit.
Originally climbed by going a short way up the flake of Excalibur before pulling right (which is possibly harder).
Originally climbed by going a short way up the flake of Excalibur before pulling right (which is possibly harder).
Original ? June 2012 Paul Clarke, Bev Jowett. Direct - Paul Clarke 26th June 2012 Jun/2012.
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Route of Interest
Midnight Cowboy
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Malham Cove)