Black Wall** E1 5b
[mike on black wall direct, 2 kb]40m. A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the Black Wall. The climbing is sustained, route-finding intricate and the route is high in the grade. A good rack and double ropes are essential. Start on the highest point of the earth mound then step left onto a narrow ledge and make a steep move to get established on the wall. Climb up until a horizontal traverse right, with feet level with a low peg (on Black Bastard) can be made, to beneath a line of pockets. Cimb these, past an old thread, to a break. Continue direct up the thin wall to a more broken band of rock. Traverse left to a corner and climb this to its top. Move up the next short wall before hand-traversing right to the finishing ledge. © ROCKFAX
FA. G.Caine, E.Austrums 4.10.70. Direct start Doug Kerr, S.Grove 25.7.87 04/Oct/1970

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List.

Photo: mike on black wall direct © mikeleahy
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 42 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Not as good as expected, wanders a lot and the rock is pretty variable! Some short sections of nice moves, but felt bottom end E1
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with James Taylor

Andrew171 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with gemma smallman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Aug/14

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/14 with Anna

The bottom two thirds up to the easy, broken band are a pure pleasure. Perfect, constricting nut slots in good rock. There is some loose rock in the easy traverse. Leave some extenders and gear for the corner and hand traverse. Top tip: bring secateurs to trim the hawthorn bush and wild roses that crowd the belay (ouch!).
Pete_Frost - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Megan Beaumont

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 21/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12

A big outing with some interesting climbing but not 3 stars - the rock is only 'good' in a relative sense!
Bulls Crack - 2nd - 20/Aug/12 with SP

great climb - not as technical as i thought - rock is good
bob johnson - 2nd - 17/Jul/12 with Rich Ball

rurp - Lead O/S - Jan/12

a few variations seemed possible, belay at top not ideal.
caradoc - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with lawson d

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2011 with Andy S

Been meaning to do this for a long time.........
jparry75 - Lead - 12/Jul/10 with niall davies

Seymore Butt - 2010

Antony Mottershead - 2010

tmawer - Lead β - 29/Sep/09 with chris king

Rich35 - Lead - 2009

Hidden - 2009

matt30987 - Lead RP - 2009 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08

Hidden - TR - Jul/08

samwisethebrave2 - 2nd - 22/Apr/08 with Tim Evans and Evans

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Apr/08

The abseil at the top of this is awkward, as theres some thorn bushes in the way that snag the ropes, however the route itself is amazing
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Tom Fenwick

Ed Booth - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/07

Coel Hellier - Lead - Sep/07

pleased with this one of my objectives for the year. gr8 route
Dale - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with dave

John Marsland - Lead O/S - 28/May/07 with Goi

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/07

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Sep/06

a_radiohead_fan - Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/98

Nigel Coe - 1997 with Dick Hanson

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/89

Nigel Bond - Lead - 26/Jul/83 with Nick

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deklan, Steffen Cruz, mhawk, TobyA, The Pylon King, A Downing, AndyM-LVB, scouser666, mosel

Voting
Total votes cast 42
hard E20 of 14
E20 of 14
easy E21 of 14
hard E14 of 14
E18 of 14
easy E11 of 14
hard HVS0 of 14
HVS0 of 14
easy HVS0 of 14
hard 5c0 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c0 of 14
hard 5b0 of 14
5b11 of 14
easy 5b3 of 14
hard 5a0 of 14
5a0 of 14
easy 5a0 of 14
3 Stars3 of 14
2 Stars8 of 14
1 Star2 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....1 of 14
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Toproped
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
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dogged