Rockfax Description
A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the face. The climbing is sustained, route finding intricate, and the route is high in the grade. Start on the highest point of the earth mound then step left onto a narrow ledge and make a steep move to get established on the wall. Climb up until a horizontal traverse right, with feet level with a low peg (on Black Bastard) can be made, to beneath a line of pockets. Climb these, past an old thread, to a break. Continue direct up the thin wall to a more broken band of rock. Traverse left to a corner and climb this to its top. Move up the next short wall before hand traversing right to the finishing ledge. © Rockfax

FA. G.Caine, E.Austrums 4.10.70. Direct start Doug Kerr, S.Grove 25.7.87 04/Oct/1970

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List.

Tom.Priestley 29/Aug Lead O/S

Nice but wanders. Took some working out to find the right way.

scott quinn 29/Aug 2nd
mattfarr 03/Jul Lead O/S
with Joe
marlow83 ?/Jul Lead
Radical-G 09/May Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Andrew171 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 2nd
Chriswallis2 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
Pete_Frost 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

The bottom two thirds up to the easy, broken band are a pure pleasure. Perfect, constricting nut slots in good rock. There is some loose rock in the easy traverse. Leave some extenders and gear for the corner and hand traverse. Top tip: bring secateurs to trim the hawthorn bush and wild roses that crowd the belay (ouch!).

with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Bulls Crack 20/Aug/12 2nd

A big outing with some interesting climbing but not 3 stars - the rock is only 'good' in a relative sense!

with SP
bob johnson 17/Jul/12 2nd

great climb - not as technical as i thought - rock is good

with Rich Ball
rurp ?/Jan/12 Lead O/S
caradoc 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

a few variations seemed possible, belay at top not ideal.

with lawson d
kingholmesy ??/2011 2nd O/S
with Andy S
jparry75 12/Jul/10 Lead

Been meaning to do this for a long time.........

with niall davies
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Antony Mottershead ??/2010 -
tmawer 29/Sep/09 Lead β
with chris king
Rich35 ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
matt30987 ??/2009 Lead RP
with Dad
Hidden 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 TR
samwisethebrave2 22/Apr/08 2nd
with Tim Evans and Evans
Hidden 16/Apr/08 Lead dog
smallerrich 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S

The abseil at the top of this is awkward, as theres some thorn bushes in the way that snag the ropes, however the route itself is amazing

Ed Booth ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier ?/Sep/07 Lead
Dale ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S

pleased with this one of my objectives for the year. gr8 route

with dave
John Marsland 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Goi
Hidden ?/Mar/07 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/06 2nd
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/05 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 04/Aug/01 TR
with Nikki Hawkins
Hidden ?/Sep/98 Lead O/S
plain kitten 21/Feb/98 Lead


Nigel Coe ??/1997 -
with Dick Hanson
Rob Davies ??/1993 AltLd dnf

Date? 1st visit to Llanymynech without having much information. We didn't even know how to find the crag and abseiled in from the top, with the intention of looking at Black Wall. Bird-spotter politely told us that the wall was out-of-bounds due to nesting peregrines. Pete, a twitcher himself, ever tactful: "I've just come back from New Zealand where they are vermin." Of course, we went away without trying anything.

Hidden 15/Apr/89 Lead
Nigel Bond 26/Jul/83 Lead
with Nick
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, deklan, Steffen Cruz, Hidden, mhawk, TobyA, Urgles, Hidden, A Downing, AndyM-LVB, scouser666, mosel
High E2
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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