UKC

Restricted Access

Access can be sensitive due to recent publicity given to the nearby gorge in mainstream and social media and issues to do with commercial group activities. It is environmentally sensitive and also has historical features that the NT wish to protect. 

To avoid any future access issues, climbers should avoid using the riverside walkway and ladders. 

Parking should be in the layby on the A470, some 500m west of the crag. Do not park on the grass verge adjacent to the entrance gate/paths. 

30m.

Rockfax Description
Start on a ledge to the right of the pinnacle. The right edge of the slab leads boldly (micro wires) to a break in some overhangs. Pull through and traverse left across a steep wall to a crack. Follow the crack to a good spike on the right. Move onto the spike and climb to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start on a ledge to the right of the pinnacle. The right edge of the slab leads boldly (micro wires) to a break in some overhangs. Pull through and then traverse left across a steep wall to a crack. Follow it to a good spike on the right. Move onto the spike and climb to the top. The CC guide does not credit the quality of this climb which is arguably as good as the Riparian

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 10 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent, bold at start, but we'll protected there after, personally thought this was a far better route than The Riparian
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent, bold at start, but we'll protected there after, personally thought this was a far better route than The Riparian
Niall Grimes 26 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A great route, especially on the upper section. The bottom slab is tricky and needs RPs. The upper section takes the steep wall a couple of metres right of the finish of Riparian. I thought the flake start of the route round to the right would make a better, less scary, start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route, especially on the upper section. The bottom slab is tricky and needs RPs. The upper section takes the steep wall a couple of metres right of the finish of Riparian. I thought the flake start of the route round to the right would make a better, less scary, start

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Rhiw Goch

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 7
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Silhouette

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))

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