The best route of its grade in the area. A remote setting and the need for the right combination of tide and calm seas make this a serious undertaking. It is not a good route for the inexperienced. Start from a massive block below the large undercut buttress.1) 4a, 16m. From the block, make a tough step-up onto the wall - crux. Good holds lead up left into a shallow groove. The groove provides steeper climbing to gain a large ledge and good belays.2) 4a, 15m. Climb up rightwards to a huge flake-crack. Large nuts or cams protect the moves up the flake-crack. From the top of the flake-crack, move right to an easy-angled but unstable slope which, with great care leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. J.Yaldren, R.J.Crewe 11.10.1969 11/Oct/1969
Ticklists: Swanage Green Spots.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Very scary topout!
Led the first pitch then when Chris and Mike got to the belay ledge they had decided that I was going to lead the second pitch as well, that was nice of them!
Chris Lodge, Michael Henesy
|Richard L||09/Aug||2nd O/S||
Andy forgot his boots and jammed his t shirt when a bing in!
Heavenly 1st pitch after a tricky pull at the start! (dangerous for Andy seconding after pulling the gear flicking out!) Found the mantel shelf quite tricky with a bag on, on the 2nd pitch. Great climb, but the relentless heat was getting to me!
Couldn't get onto the route we wanted due to the sea (abseiled in onto a lone block out amongst the waves... took a long time to get to the start!) I took first pitch (typical swanage start) Chris took second. Nice move near the top!
|Felix Ottey||14/Oct/12||AltLd O/S||
Nice route. A touch intimidating for the grade.
Tim Lead first pitch i lead second. It was raining, and unpleaseant
|Sophie Nunn||24/Oct/10||Lead O/S|
|The Ivanator||05/Sep/09||AltLd O/S||
I led P1. Top blocks look like they could tumble any day, treat with care! Poor route compared with others in the area, not worth 3 stars.
|Rich God 3||05/Sep/09||AltLd|
John Parrott, Steve Webster
|Graham Westbrook||?/Aug/09||AltLd O/S|
Lead both pitches. Had no big gear so last pitch was fairly bold. Getting to the belay stake was the crux as there was no grass to pull on this time of year. route-Vdiff topout-Vs
Climbed pitch 2/2. This is in the rockfax guide as a VD, but in the climbers club guide as an S. I would definately rate this as Severe. The start is the Crux, but the second pitch has bold moves up the flake. Excellent climb and well worth the 3 stars!
|jamie ward||07/Aug/08||Lead O/S||
Nice climb tricky top flake pitch! for a VD
First move was desperate, never 4a (or maybe I was just being crap!) the rest was a walk in the park. Not really worth it stars I don't think.