31m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The best route of its grade in the area. A remote setting and the need for the right combination of tide and calm seas make this a serious undertaking. It is not a good route for the inexperienced. Start from a massive block below the large undercut buttress.
1) 4a, 16m. From the block, make a tough step-up onto the wall - crux. Good holds lead up left into a shallow groove. The groove provides steeper climbing to gain a large ledge and good belays.
2) 4a, 15m. Climb up rightwards to a huge flake-crack. Large nuts or cams protect the moves up the flake-crack. From the top of the flake-crack, move right to an easy-angled but unstable slope which, with great care leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Yaldren, R.J.Crewe 11.10.1969 11/Oct/1969

Ticklists: Swanage Green Spots.

bencoope 24/Feb AltLd
bradholmes 11/Oct/15 AltLd dog
cbonner 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
dom94 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Very scary topout!

with Eloise
Eloise_SW 07/Sep/15 2nd
with Dom
Buccaneerbilly 05/Sep/15 Lead

Led the first pitch then when Chris and Mike got to the belay ledge they had decided that I was going to lead the second pitch as well, that was nice of them!

with Chris Lodge, Michael Henesy
mikehenesy 05/Sep/15 2nd β
with Willy
lcullum7 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Richard L 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Tony Johnson
tonevert 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Richard Long
Bob M 02/Oct/14 AltLd
kim.mulji 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Monica
Stanners 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Heavenly 1st pitch after a tricky pull at the start! (dangerous for Andy seconding after pulling the gear flicking out!) Found the mantel shelf quite tricky with a bag on, on the 2nd pitch. Great climb, but the relentless heat was getting to me!

with Andy G
sonic46 20/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Mike H
Hidden 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
sam_craddock ?/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 08/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Guy Lowndes 30/Sep/13 Lead
Guy Lowndes 30/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
DaveGarrity 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Couldn't get onto the route we wanted due to the sea (abseiled in onto a lone block out amongst the waves... took a long time to get to the start!) I took first pitch (typical swanage start) Chris took second. Nice move near the top!

with Chris Evans
Felix Ottey 14/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Nice route. A touch intimidating for the grade.

Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/12 AltLd
TomBaker 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Tim Lead first pitch i lead second. It was raining, and unpleaseant

Hidden 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Ceridwen 24/Oct/10 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/10 AltLd
joshchalke 18/Oct/09 2nd
Ceridwen 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Mark
The Ivanator 05/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

I led P1. Top blocks look like they could tumble any day, treat with care! Poor route compared with others in the area, not worth 3 stars.

with Rich
Hidden 05/Sep/09 AltLd
SuseH 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Iain
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd β
Steven Andrews 29/Aug/09 AltLd
with Simon Goldman
Hidden 12/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Adrian Daniels 02/Aug/09 AltLd
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
@ndy 27/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Alex More ??/2009 AltLd
with bob
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
deacondeacon 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Had no big gear so last pitch was fairly bold. Getting to the belay stake was the crux as there was no grass to pull on this time of year. route-Vdiff topout-Vs

chriswitts1 19/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Climbed pitch 2/2. This is in the rockfax guide as a VD, but in the climbers club guide as an S. I would definately rate this as Severe. The start is the Crux, but the second pitch has bold moves up the flake. Excellent climb and well worth the 3 stars!

with Jon Smith
jamie ward 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Nice climb tricky top flake pitch! for a VD

with Toby Dunford
tobydunford 07/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
MarkRyder 18/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Lee
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob84 22/Dec/06 AltLd O/S

First move was desperate, never 4a (or maybe I was just being crap!) the rest was a walk in the park. Not really worth it stars I don't think.

with Ant
featuresforfeet ?/Aug/05 AltLd
Bob M 29/Jul/04 AltLd
with Steve Turner
jonberry791 15/Jun/03 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 19/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/01 AltLd
Hidden 27/Sep/01 AltLd
andybenham ??/2001 -
Hidden ?/Nov/00 Lead
Gareth 05/Mar/00 Lead

Andy forgot his boots and jammed his t shirt when abing in!

with Graeme, Andrew
FrankW 28/Aug/99 Lead rpt
with Laura
FrankW 02/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with Giles H
Bob M ?/Feb/98 -
with Jim Jeffs, Jill Stevens
r0b 14/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Andy Jefferies
Bob M 15/Sep/96 AltLd
with Robert Read
snowcat 04/Aug/96 2nd
with Dave Morriss
Geoffers ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Bean
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
kp64zl ?/Dec/91 Lead
with Giles
MoWalker3 07/Oct/90 -
steveb2006 11/Feb/89 Solo

Solo out after failing on Dead Red

with Mike Pycroft
Moses 15/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 19/Aug/84 Lead
with Jackie Coe
turnerk ??/1978 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1977 -
with Dave Kyle
Hidden ??/1975 -
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High HS
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High S
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High 4b
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Votes cast 16
Votes cast 17
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