Dorset > Cormorant Ledge >
 
Cormorant Buttress West*** S 4a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Stretch
 
Ace of Spades >>
31m, 2 pitches. The best route of its grade in the area. A remote setting and the need for the right combination of tide and calm seas make this a serious undertaking. It is not a good route for the inexperienced. Start from a massive block below the large undercut buttress. 1) 4a, 16m. From the block, make a tough step-up onto the wall - crux. Good holds lead up left into a shallow groove. The groove provides steeper climbing to gain a large ledge and good belays. 2) 4a, 15m. Climb up rightwards to a huge flake-crack. Large nuts or cams protect the moves up the flake-crack. From the top of the flake-crack, move right to an easy-angled but unstable slope which, with great care leads to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. J.Yaldren, R.J.Crewe 11.10.1969 11/Oct/1969
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 63 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Monica

Heavenly 1st pitch after a tricky pull at the start! (dangerous for Andy seconding after pulling the gear flicking out!) Found the mantel shelf quite tricky with a bag on, on the 2nd pitch. Great climb, but the relentless heat was getting to me!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/14 with Andy G

sonic46 - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/14 with Mike H

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/14

sam_craddock - TR - Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/13

Guy Lowndes - Lead - 30/Sep/13 with Dave James

Guy Lowndes - Lead - 30/Sep/13 with Dave James

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/13

Couldn't get onto the route we wanted due to the sea (abseiled in onto a lone block out amongst the waves... took a long time to get to the start!) I took first pitch (typical swanage start) Chris took second. Nice move near the top!
DaveGarrity - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Chris Evans

Nice route. A touch intimidating for the grade.
Felix Ottey - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - 25/May/12

hp8g12 - AltLd - Apr/12

Tim Lead first pitch i lead second. It was raining, and unpleaseant
TomBaker - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Tim Culmer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/11

Ceridwen - 2nd rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Ceridwen Hutchinson

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/10

joshchalke - 2nd - 18/Oct/09

Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Mark

I led P1. Top blocks look like they could tumble any day, treat with care! Poor route compared with others in the area, not worth 3 stars.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Rich

Rich God 3 - AltLd - 05/Sep/09 with The Ivanator

SuseH - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Iain

Hidden - 2nd β - 29/Aug/09

Steven Andrews - AltLd - 29/Aug/09 with Simon Goldman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/09

Adrian Daniels - AltLd - 02/Aug/09 with John Parrott, Steve Webster

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

@ndy - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/09

Alex More - AltLd - 2009 with bob

Lead both pitches. Had no big gear so last pitch was fairly bold. Getting to the belay stake was the crux as there was no grass to pull on this time of year. route-Vdiff topout-Vs
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08

Climbed pitch 2/2. This is in the rockfax guide as a VD, but in the climbers club guide as an S. I would definately rate this as Severe. The start is the Crux, but the second pitch has bold moves up the flake. Excellent climb and well worth the 3 stars!
chriswitts1 - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/08 with Jon Smith

Nice climb tricky top flake pitch! for a VD
jamie ward - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Toby Dunford

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Jamie Ward

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/08

MarkRyder - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/07 with Lee

Hidden - 2007

First move was desperate, never 4a (or maybe I was just being crap!) the rest was a walk in the park. Not really worth it stars I don't think.
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/06 with Ant

featuresforfeet - AltLd - Aug/05 with Sarah Clough

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jul/04

jonberry791 - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/03

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/02

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Oct/01

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Sep/01

andybenham - 2001

Hidden - Lead - Nov/00

FrankW - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/99 with Laura

FrankW - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/99 with Giles H

Hidden - Feb/98

r0b - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/97 with Andy Jefferies

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Sep/96

snowcat - 2nd - 04/Aug/96 with Dave Morriss

Geoffers - Lead O/S - 1995 with Bean

Marti999 - Lead - 1992

kp64zl - Lead - Dec/91 with Giles

MoWalker3 - 07/Oct/90

Hidden - Solo - 11/Feb/89

Moses - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/87

Nigel Coe - Lead - 19/Aug/84 with Jackie Coe

turnerk - Lead O/S - 1978

Nigel Coe - 1977 with Dave Kyle

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, ElBarto, johnpr, andyfeds, Dan Lane, bobbarnes00, Hidden, leonjones, davewing

Voting
Total votes cast 40
hard HS0 of 13
HS0 of 13
easy HS1 of 13
hard S2 of 13
S7 of 13
easy S2 of 13
hard HVD1 of 13
HVD0 of 13
easy HVD0 of 13
hard 4b0 of 13
4b0 of 13
easy 4b2 of 13
hard 4a0 of 13
4a10 of 13
easy 4a1 of 13
hard 3c0 of 13
3c0 of 13
easy 3c0 of 13
3 Stars5 of 14
2 Stars4 of 14
1 Star1 of 14
0 Stars3 of 14
Bag of .....1 of 14
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 63 (1.6%)
Lead18 of 63 (28.6%)
Followed7 of 63 (11.1%)
Toproped1 of 63 (1.6%)
Alt Leads31 of 63 (49.2%)
Unknown5 of 63 (7.9%)

'Climbed'27 of 63 (42.9%)
clean O/S33 of 63 (52.4%)
clean β1 of 63 (1.6%)
clean rpt2 of 63 (3.2%)