Dorset > Cormorant Ledge >
 
Cormorant Buttress West*** S 4a

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Ace of Spades >>
31m, 2 pitches. The best route of its grade in the area. A remote setting and the need for the right combination of tide and calm seas make this a serious undertaking. It is not a good route for the inexperienced. Start from a massive block below the large undercut buttress. 1) 4a, 16m. From the block, make a tough step-up onto the wall - crux. Good holds lead up left into a shallow groove. The groove provides steeper climbing to gain a large ledge and good belays. 2) 4a, 15m. Climb up rightwards to a huge flake-crack. Large nuts or cams protect the moves up the flake-crack. From the top of the flake-crack, move right to an easy-angled but unstable slope which, with great care leads to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. J.Yaldren, R.J.Crewe 11.10.1969 11/Oct/1969
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Nice route. A touch intimidating for the grade.
Felix Ottey - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - 25/May/12

hp8g12 - AltLd - Apr/12

Tim Lead first pitch i lead second. It was raining, and unpleaseant
TomBaker - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Tim Culmer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/11

Ceridwen - 2nd rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Ceridwen Hutchinson

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/10

joshchalke - 2nd - 18/Oct/09

Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Mark

I led P1. Top blocks look like they could tumble any day, treat with care! Poor route compared with others in the area, not worth 3 stars.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Rich

Rich God 3 - AltLd - 05/Sep/09 with The Ivanator

SuseH - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Iain

Hidden - 2nd β - 29/Aug/09

Steven Andrews - AltLd - 29/Aug/09 with Simon Goldman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/09

Adrian Daniels - AltLd - 02/Aug/09 with John Parrott, Steve Webster

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

@ndy - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/09

Alex More - AltLd - 2009 with bob

Lead both pitches. Had no big gear so last pitch was fairly bold. Getting to the belay stake was the crux as there was no grass to pull on this time of year. route-Vdiff topout-Vs
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08

Climbed pitch 2/2. This is in the rockfax guide as a VD, but in the climbers club guide as an S. I would definately rate this as Severe. The start is the Crux, but the second pitch has bold moves up the flake. Excellent climb and well worth the 3 stars!
chriswitts1 - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/08 with Jon Smith

Nice climb tricky top flake pitch! for a VD
jamie ward - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Toby Dunford

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Jamie Ward

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/08

MarkRyder - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/07 with Lee

Hidden - 2007

First move was desperate, never 4a (or maybe I was just being crap!) the rest was a walk in the park. Not really worth it stars I don't think.
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/06 with Ant

featuresforfeet - AltLd - Aug/05 with Sarah Clough

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jul/04

jonberry791 - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/03

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/02

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Oct/01

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Sep/01

andybenham - 2001

Hidden - Lead - Nov/00

FrankW - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/99 with Laura

FrankW - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/99 with Giles H

Hidden - Feb/98

r0b - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/97 with Andy Jefferies

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Sep/96

Geoffers - Lead O/S - 1995 with Bean

Marti999 - Lead - 1992

MoWalker3 - 07/Oct/90

Hidden - Solo - 11/Feb/89

turnerk - Lead O/S - 1978

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, ElBarto, johnpr, andyfeds, Dan Lane, bobbarnes00, Hidden, leonjones, davewing

Voting
Total votes cast 35
hard HS0 of 11
HS0 of 11
easy HS1 of 11
hard S2 of 11
S5 of 11
easy S2 of 11
hard HVD1 of 11
HVD0 of 11
easy HVD0 of 11
hard 4b0 of 11
4b0 of 11
easy 4b2 of 11
hard 4a0 of 11
4a8 of 11
easy 4a1 of 11
hard 3c0 of 11
3c0 of 11
easy 3c0 of 11
3 Stars4 of 13
2 Stars4 of 13
1 Star1 of 13
0 Stars3 of 13
Bag of .....1 of 13
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 48 (2.1%)
Lead13 of 48 (27.1%)
Followed4 of 48 (8.3%)
Alt Leads26 of 48 (54.2%)
Unknown4 of 48 (8.3%)

'Climbed'20 of 48 (41.7%)
clean O/S25 of 48 (52.1%)
clean β1 of 48 (2.1%)
clean rpt2 of 48 (4.2%)