32m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great little expedition at the grade, once again featuring good rock, holds and a solid top-out. Start just right of Quality Street.
1) 4b, 17m. Good holds lead up and right to a crack. Keep going on the same line past a ledge to the fault-line. Traverse right to a stance on the arete just above the fault-line.
2) 4b, 15m. The narrow groove above gains a solid top-out. © Rockfax

FA. R.J Crewe, K.Winkworth 29.3.1970 29/Mar/1970

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage.


ClimberDateStyle
TomRiddelsdell 23/Jul Lead O/S
with Alex Horton
Horton 23/Jul 2nd O/S

Fun moves, done in 1 pitch from a hanging belay start (high tide)

Hidden 22/Jul 2nd O/S
nigel bassam 03/Jul AltLd
with Nick
arandall 19/Jun AltLd O/S
Wendy Watthews 19/Jun AltLd O/S

Took the first lead as it started raining and then proceeded to stop, alex began leading the second as the rain started to set in properly. Everyone was good and wet by the top.

Hidden 19/Jun AltLd O/S
StormShadow 18/Jun AltLd

Rob lead first pitch. I did the second. would like to try first pitch some other time, but glad Rob took it on first.

with Rob and Chris
Hidden 01/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Apr AltLd O/S
Jus 30/Apr AltLd O/S
with Efua
mattc 17/Apr Lead rpt
timharrison 17/Apr AltLd rpt
with mattc
Buccaneerbilly 16/Apr AltLd

Mike and I took James out for his first ever trad route. First route a Hard Severe, the lad did well. I lead the first pitch and Mike took the sharp end for the second.

with James Mason, Michael Henesy
mikehenesy 16/Apr AltLd rpt

James first outdoor route! Well done, and a fine lead by Willie.

with James Mason, Willy
mjeffery 12/Apr Lead O/S
with Rob
cdpuk 12/Mar AltLd O/S

Led p1

paultaylor 06/Mar AltLd rpt
with Matt Roberts
tsyrett 06/Mar Lead O/S
cameron_hall 10/Jan Lead O/S
with Svet Babchuk
lawlolly 29/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Decided to head left instead of right.. whoops. Nice climb. Average gear on first pitch.

dom94 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Great!!

with Eloise
Eloise_SW 08/Sep/15 2nd
with Dom
petegunn 17/Aug/15 AltLd
with Davina
SenzuBean 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

I led P1, Barry led P2. Gear was a bit fiddly, and lower half was covered in a fine coat of sticky clay dust. Line was wandering but nice - "protected the traverse too well" and managed to get one rope running under a big knobbly flake, so severe rope drag near the top - made the final moves quite exciting. Worth it for the belay ledge alone.

with Barry
BarrySW19 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

First pitch is very enjoyable with plenty of big holds - not so great if you have lots of rope drag apparently :-) Second pitch is tougher than it looks from the belay. Ab in from the belay stake to land on a big boulder, but prepare to get wet feet moving to the start at high tide.

with Jon
petegruf 15/Aug/15 AltLd
with hannah f
SarahA 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Duncan Livesey
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Steve954 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Nice route, Rich lead P1 and me P2

with Richard, Rich
Hidden 01/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead
rajeshwarbisht 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
James1483 ?/Jul/15 2nd
with Richard
elfka 26/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
with Jon Wilson
AndyCook 14/Jun/15 AltLd β
Joris.Roulleau 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Matt Smith 17/May/15 Lead rpt

Lead both pitches, seagulls nesting.

Hidden 17/May/15 2nd O/S
AJM 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Tubs 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Ali B, AJM
AllyBee 18/Apr/15 2nd β
with Tom L, Andy Morris
TiffTiff 28/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 21/Mar/15 AltLd rpt

P2

with Tiff
Shane Willis 08/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Good route. Lots of gear. Led a party of three up both pitches. Belay stance was plenty big enough for a comfortable change over. Take care of rope drag at the end of the first pitch.

kp64zl ?/Feb/15 AltLd

I led first pitch. Very cold day.

with Julian M
Russell Lovett ??/2015 2nd O/S

Early 1980,s, climbed.

with Tim Dunsby
Bob M 02/Oct/14 AltLd
elfka 25/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Joe Doherty
hotfeet 21/Sep/14 2nd
Ian MK 20/Sep/14 2nd
with Anna
Anna Maykova 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 18/Sep/14 Lead
Matt Smith 14/Sep/14 TR O/S

Abbed down only to realise that we weren't going to be able to climb the route in the tide conditions. Climbed back up on ab rope.

JenDurden 14/Sep/14 TR
jing 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Traverse a bit exciting. Dropped my belay plate in the sea.

with Vince
tev 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Dave G, Viskii
Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
Alaric 06/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Forgot the guidebook but kinda remembered the line.

with Neil
MontyH 03/Sep/14 AltLd
with Brian
brian watson 03/Sep/14 AltLd
t-shipton95 20/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
sam_craddock ?/Aug/14 TR
rushy11111918 31/Jul/14 2nd
with Paul Davis
uncontrollable 17/Jul/14 Lead

a hold on the fault line breaking off send me half way down the first pitch, welcome to swanage trad Enca :-)

with Enca
georgeevans88 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with James N
mikehenesy 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Nice route gets 3 stars on ukc, give it two cos I was scared on it. Aparently I've done it before but there was no loose scarey finish this time, must have gone the wrong way last.

with Dave Garrity
DaveGarrity 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
bsparky 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Kane Harris, Karl Gregory
UnkArl 05/Jul/14 AltLd
with Ben
rustaldo 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Alex
Alex Hallam 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

A great route for those climbing with the strong of character but weak of arm. Someone like Lt Kit Perry RN.

sgl 08/Jun/14 Lead
with Susie
lem 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 AltLd
lukerathmell 31/May/14 AltLd
with steve
islandlynx 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led p2. Toms first sea cliff and first hs

joedoherty 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
mattprince 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
Topsy Turvy 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Mike P
clarendon 11/Apr/14 2nd
with Tris
runwildjohn 09/Apr/14 AltLd

Mike led p1, I led p2

stonemikey 09/Apr/14 AltLd
Ciderslider 04/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Abbed in onto a little rock surrounded by sea - then had to jump into the sea and wade across to the start of the route - doh !

ciderspider 04/Apr/14 2nd rpt
timmyhobby 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

lead both pitches

hannahbannana 09/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 19/Jan/14 2nd
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
mattc 09/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/13 Lead O/S
kenneM 05/Oct/13 AltLd
sonic46 29/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 22/Sep/13 AltLd
andrea83 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2.

with Hamish
Hamish777 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I lead P1, Andrea lead P2.

with Andrea
Hidden 20/Aug/13 AltLd
Montecore 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lovely first pitch, exposed but easy for grade - jugfest

with Mike McKenna
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd β
Monkey_Alan 18/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with John Knight
Cheese Monkey 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mike
Mayaculpa 18/Jul/13 2nd
with Ben
Hidden 27/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/13 AltLd
leglesslizard 21/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Peter Lovell 21/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
jezb1 31/Mar/13 Lead
alaster tonge 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Lailah
Hidden ??/2013 -
mattparratt 13/Oct/12 AltLd

With nick Barret

Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
Stroppy 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Lead in one pitch. Rope drag wollolol

with Sam Lands
John Foster 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Geoff
Hidden 06/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
onlyfoddington 19/Aug/12 AltLd dog

I got too sweaty and it all got too intense leading the first pitch.

stevorobs3 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Luxulyan ?/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Mig, Tom Murrell
Hidden 26/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 23/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Chris Jones
Philippa Arding 18/Jun/12 AltLd
with olan oarkinson
Malpractise 01/Jun/12 2nd

The start is the crux unless you have 10 foot legs!

with Geoff Burton, ash
Hidden 01/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
stoneback 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

First route at Swanage, found it hard for HS! lead p1, really good route and a good intro - felt harder than some VS in LWV.

with Toby
Ybot Htulk 27/May/12 AltLd

A good introduction to Swanage I think

with Nick
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead
Nexonen 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Jake
Geoffers 15/Apr/12 AltLd rpt
with Lauren, Tim
Headjamm 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Tim, Geoffers
TimKnight 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Joemanglerocks 31/Mar/12 AltLd

Lead P2

LukeyG 24/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/12 2nd
paultaylor 01/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed in the dark with headtorches. Ab rope got tangled round boulders in the sea. Meant that I got to go swimming to get it back. All good fun :-)

with Will
will moy 01/Mar/12 AltLd
with paul taylor
Monkey_Alan 22/Jan/12 Lead rpt

Led both pitches to try and get my head back in.

Hidden 22/Jan/12 2nd rpt
Ian JL ??/2012 -
DOVEY ??/2012 -
with Budd
PAJames ??/2012 -
martin one 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Neil Nand
ElBarto 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch seconded the second, great route worth doing again.

Hidden 24/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Sep/11 AltLd
ciderspider 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Ciderslider 20/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Rained !! Then by the time we topped out glorious sunshine. Ian knocked his stove over and nearly torched the ledge (TW@T)

Hidden 12/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S

very reomtye - steep for the grade

nick hawkins 26/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
timharrison 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Richy
Ciderslider 13/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic big atmosphere multi pitch (lead pitch 1 first time around, went down to do Oran and couldn't get to start (due to tide) so did it again, this time lead pitch 2 ). Great route !!!!

with Rich
trevor macalonan 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
djking1983 12/May/11 Lead O/S
with Becky Bellworthy-Noyce
jamespilgrim 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Traverse to belay ledge a bit sandy

with Mark
lostinmidlands 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

I led 1st pitch, Tris led 2nd.

with tris
Hidden ??/2011 -
steve taylor 24/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead
Andre Clarke 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch

with Darrell Gibson
gibsond 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
cas smerdon 04/Sep/10 AltLd
with Lee
Big Lee 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Cracking atmospheric route, one of the best I've done on rock this year. Felt low in the grade though given that there are jugs all the way.

with Carole
The Ivanator 15/Aug/10 AltLd rpt

I led pitch 1

with Sean
Monkey_Alan 08/Aug/10 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

uncontrollable 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Thomas V, Alan B
tev 08/Aug/10 AltLd
mikehenesy 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Chris led the first and I got to top out 'the loose earth of death' free! Cracking route all the way.

with Chris Lodge
Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
jdgaventa 07/Aug/10 AltLd

led second pitch

with eric
Bob M 05/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd
colkurtz ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Robb
rd20 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

RD P2

with Martin
smolders 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/10 -
Calder 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Ceridwen 04/Jul/10 AltLd rpt
with Heather
nick hawkins 03/Jul/10 AltLd β

led P2

climbtim 30/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Really nice climb deserves its two stars. Stay away until end July due to nesting chick on the belay ledge

Hidden 30/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Guy Wilson 29/Jun/10 2nd
with Rick Cotgreave
kleinej 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Patrick P1, me P2.

with Patrick
Alaric 11/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Ed
Ed Griffin 11/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Alaric
Julian Prieto 03/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with Ollie Dorrell
jezb1 08/Apr/10 AltLd

Ld p2. P1 the nicer pitch. Felt right for the grade. A hold broke off the traverse of the chossy break at mid hight.

nick hawkins 08/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1, nice route huge belay ledge

with Jez
Ybot Htulk ?/Nov/09 AltLd
with Richard
Richard Morgan 31/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
The Ivanator 04/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

I led P1, really good route. Had a fun wave dodging (not entirely successfully) mid tide traverse over from Guillemot ledge to get there.

with Stewart
SuseH 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Iain
Hidden 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 20/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/Aug/09 AltLd
with Norman and Sonya
uncontrollable 30/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with leonhard
Ceridwen 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Rollo 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike
MontyH 11/Jun/09 Lead

graham jones came out loved the route and the whole experience.

with Paul Milton
Julian Prieto 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
cliffy 04/Jun/09 2nd
leonjones 31/May/09 AltLd
Indy Nile 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

Leon did the 1st pitch

MarkRyder 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Lee
cliffy 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

P1 me, P2 Andy

with Andy Combes , Debbie Roberts
mark89 22/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook ?/Mar/09 AltLd
uncontrollable 20/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Alan B
Monkey_Alan 20/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
dan gibson 25/Nov/08 2nd
with helen gibson
Hidden 07/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
jamie ward 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Brilliant route with good gear, a good warm up for quality street.

with Toby Dunford
Simonfarfaraway 30/Jul/08 AltLd
with Dave A
Blisco 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Caiwei
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
MontyH 16/Jul/08 AltLd
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
Hidden 16/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
jchenoweth 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Bob
ebunick 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S

lovely climb, just need to believe the holds aren't gonna fall off.

with Fat Al
Hidden 09/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
SamStrong 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Rob Dyer
MontyH 05/Sep/07 AltLd rpt

good fun again, Pete dropped piece of gear so abseiled down after climb to retrive it. He then climbed Quality street fast!

with pete frost
clipskipper 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Kevin Knight
kevinknights 07/Jul/07 2nd O/S

pleasant

with Lee
Tom Gadsden 09/Jun/07 AltLd rpt

Kit P1 Tom P2

with Kit
Kit Gillibrand 09/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

P1 - Me P2 - Tom

MontyH 23/May/07 Lead rpt

done in one pitch

with Pete and Lee
Hidden 23/May/07 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Chris Sansum 31/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with Weilin Wang
pandalover 31/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Led the second pitch

with Chris
Tom Gadsden ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Roly
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Rob84 22/Dec/06 AltLd O/S

What an awesome route - WAAAY better that the skanky VDiff further left!

with Ant
ChrisBrooke 21/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
MontyH 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S

great route, beatiful evening one of the best this year.

with Paul Milton
Bob M 30/Apr/06 AltLd
tobydunford 18/Apr/06 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 18/Apr/06 2nd β
Bob M 09/Sep/04 AltLd
Nigel Coe 13/Sep/03 AltLd

On Climbers' Club meet

with Pete Finclaire
Alaric 23/Mar/03 Lead O/S
jonberry791 ??/2003 Lead O/S
sims 06/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 27/Oct/01 AltLd
Hidden 27/Sep/01 AltLd
andybenham ??/2001 -
Hidden ?/Nov/00 Lead
FrankW 29/Apr/00 Lead rpt
with Giles H
Bob M 31/Mar/00 -
with Jill Stevens
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -
FrankW 28/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Laura
timreynolds 08/Jul/99 AltLd
with David Baines
Bob M 21/May/99 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
andyfeds 09/Aug/98 AltLd

Andy C led first pitch, think I've led this since

with Andy C
Bob M 10/May/98 Lead
with Jim Jeffs
Budge 11/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
with Mike Oates
Adrian Daniels 12/Oct/96 AltLd
with John Parrott
colin milton 26/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
MoWalker3 01/Jan/95 -
Geoffers ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Bean
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/80 Lead
with Pete Hevezi
Nigel Coe 17/Jun/79 -
with John Walmsley
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Darrell Read, richardbyrom, Hidden, laurence_falconer, Hidden, Georgia Barnett, bazthomas, Gentleman Joe, Ropeboy, Hidden, DanChad, Richard Justice, Hidden, Pintsize, Hidden, lem, Hidden, Andrew will wilson, Guy Lowndes, Hidden, gilmourheid, alexporter, DerwentDiluted, ElBarto, Rich K, johnpr, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 48
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set