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Cocytus*** E2 6a

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[Cocytus wall, Ansteys Cove, 3 kb]18m, 2 pitches. A superb route featuring two contrasting pitches; the first is technical, and the second steep. Start beneath the slim, smooth corner/groove. 1) 6a 13m. Climb the immaculate, smooth groove past two bolts and swing left at its top to a bolt belay on a sloping ledge. 2) 5b, 15m. Move up left from the ledge, then traverse steeply rightwards to find and use a borehole on a sloping shelf to access the base of a short steep corner. Climb this to the vegetated slope above. Bolt belay in an outcrop over to the right. Abseil off. © ROCKFAX
** RECENTLY RETRO-BOLTED ** Now ~6C with extra bolt at start and before move left to belay. There is also the option of a direct finish at a similar grade, follow the line of bolts above.
FFA. Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 31.5.76. Previously aided. 31/May/1976

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Cocytus wall, Ansteys Cove © Justin T
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 154 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Climbed as a bolted sport route. Found this fun but quite challenging: I'd vote for a solid 6c+ if the upper bulge is included in the sport climb.
TomJ - Lead dog - 07/Sep/14 with John

jonleighton - Lead β - 31/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Aug/14

First go but had tried ages ago.
EdGS - Lead RP - 17/Aug/14 with Andy Bowden

Only P1. Fell between 2/3 clips. Kept raining - shitty conditions (my excuse and I'm sticking to it)
NaCl - Lead dog - 07/Jul/14 with Syd

Rory Bascombe - Lead RP - 22/Jun/14 with jacobjohncharles

Retro-flash
jacobjohncharles - Lead β - 22/Jun/14

Hidden - 14/Jun/14

First go on this, great climb, reasonable amount of swearing and resting, going on the 'project' list to get done asap. Finished at the bolt belay on the sloping ledge. Does the 2nd pitch still get done?
chrisweight - Lead dog - 12/Jun/14 with Andy Hunt

Sport version. Awful style. Bottom half went better. Many rests on the rope, a fair bit of beta. Totally pumped by the end. Super route.
monkeytennis - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/14 with Chris Weight

climbed as the 6c/+ sport route, it broke me and had to dog up it :) but happy to make the chains anyway :)
paul reah - 2nd dog - 05/Jun/14 with Tom Mullier

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead β - 30/May/14

andy_pemberton - Lead - 30/May/14 with Martin

KDSclimber - Lead dog - 27/May/14 with Richard

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Apr/14

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 16/Apr/14 with Guy Percival

will909 - Lead β - 08/Mar/14

A bit wet, but made it to the final bulge before resolve crumpled.
Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 05/Mar/14 with Guy Percival

Now a clip up feels as hard as the link up into More Steam
guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/14 with paul

gg4419 - Lead RP - 24/Nov/13 with Nick Stephens

nickstephens - Lead RP - 24/Nov/13 with Gareth Greeves

Samuel Wainwright - Lead - 22/Nov/13 with Rob Steer

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Oct/13

Now bolted, gets 6c
Julie Carroll - Lead RP - 11/Oct/13 with Steven Craig

2nd attempt
dbrooks - Lead RP - 26/Sep/13 with Dave

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/13 with Phil

Finished higher up the new bolts to new finish. Interesting climbing on bottom half.
R2B - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Nick B

Last climb of the day and with wet shoes. After 3 falls, stopped at the end before the belay anchors.
sarpedon - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/13

nath_casper - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with dan

dmoir - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with John Tanner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/13

P1 only. Got it second go after a decent rest and calf stretch. Would've been v tenuous at e2 with only 2 bolts.
Owen W-G - Lead β - 12/Aug/13 with Purple Sue

Daniel - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Andrea Somaschini

peteharrison06 - Lead O/S - Aug/13

Patrick Hill - Lead RP - 17/Jul/13 with olly12344

quiffhanger - Lead β - 29/Jun/13 with Kate

Now bolted. Think the grade should be Sport. Around F6c/+
Pathological_Climber - Lead β - 29/Jun/13

Gav A - Lead β - 10/Jun/13 with Roz

Ross.Cooper - Lead RP - 08/Jun/13 with Laurence Everitt

alek - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with James Kay

With placing draws. Complete bolted line including direct finish.
Dale Turrell - Lead O/S - 29/May/13 with Finn, Dave

P1 to bolt belay, Woke the calves up as warm up route!
drewish - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

bolted 6c ish
jld579 - Lead O/S - May/13

Direct finish this time
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Colin

Wet a bit gopping! Slipped off 1st go
Bristoldave - Lead RP - 09/Mar/13 with Caroline

Finally got to the top of something at anestys :0. first pitch only. So cold
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Colin

Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead rpt - 18/Feb/13 with Stanley

P1, 6c.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2013 with Ed Morris

jacobjohncharles - Lead dog - 2013

Fell off at very top due to pump and being knackered as end of trip
Ross.Cooper - Lead dog - 18/Nov/12 with Laurence Everitt

I found this hard.I'm climbing way below par.But would have struggled with this even when my fitness and strength was better.
Popkids - TR dog - 18/Nov/12 with Nolan, Kafoozalem

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Ross Cooper

As a 6c+. Luverley
wolverine - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/12 with Chris Hind

Amazing first pitch, best slab route I've done so far!
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Stanley

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Sep/12

Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Jul/12

one of the only successes of the day. a good pitch, did the bolted continuation to the lower off. would be a gnarly trad lead.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Jordon Fleming

6c+
mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with James Connolly, Rob Tyler, Pete Abernethy

jimmyrua - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with David Brigham

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Jun/12

Rupey - Lead dog - 02/Jun/12 with Wayne and Nick

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/May/12

Hidden - TR dnf - 31/May/12

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 31/May/12

stunning line. I need to work harder.. !!
EcoClimber - TR dog - 23/May/12

1st pitch only.
Oddjob - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Tom

hepitt - Apr/12 with Phillipa Arding, Rob Pitt

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/12

JackHatton - Lead dog - 11/Mar/12 with richy mardell

burto - Lead β - 25/Feb/12 with malc, hertha

1st bolt clipped
Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/12 with Nick Arding

Hidden - TR - 15/Jan/12

M Bryan - TR dog - 30/Oct/11 with Dan Walker, Chris Mock

Jonathan Emett - TR O/S - 08/Sep/11 with toby

Toby Dunn - Lead - 08/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

Pippa - 2nd - 26/Jun/11 with Jon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11

Hidden - TR RP - 15/May/11

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 15/May/11

gear to first bolt already in.
Ben1983 - Lead β - 02/May/11

With pre placed kit
david morse - Lead β - 02/May/11 with tori, todd

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/10

Hidden - TR rpt - 07/Nov/10

Did Cocytus/ More Steam link up first. Then This. Shame the draws were in. Used cams at the end.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead β - 06/Nov/10 with Mike Cleverdon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/10 with michael porter

Hidden - TR rpt - 23/Aug/10

Awesome bit of climbing! Hard 5c/soft 6a up to bolt (scary) then some 6a moves around 2nd bolt...nice clutter free climbing.. 3 draws and a sling used! E grade:hard E2 or soft E3...probably more like a badly bolted Fr6c. Tremadog was good prep for this!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Eugenius

Definately badly bolted 6c. Has a traddy feel due to the type of climbing. A crafty slings protects the upper moves. Fell off by second boltas i had my feet in bad positions and couldn't swap. Clean next go though
eugeneth - Lead RP - 15/Aug/10 with Duncan C

1st pitch only. With first bolt pre-clipped..
cornishben - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Pippa Froggatt

raku - Lead dog - 12/Jul/10

Tough for E2. But very good.
sparkass - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Mark Waltham

tom169 - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/10 with Laura

E3 6a in old guide
Chris_barr - Lead β - 09/Apr/10 with Mike

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/10

tom169 - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Henry Irvine

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead β - 20/Sep/09

chris j - Lead rpt - 06/Sep/09 with Josh

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Dave Moir

w.pettet-smith - Lead β - May/09 with josh

The most inspirational line I've ever climbed. I used a clipstick to clip the first bolt...
northnorthnorth - Lead RP - 13/Apr/09 with Henry

chris j - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/09 with Ben Bradford

Lead first pitch only. Clean on 2nd attempt.
chris j - Lead RP - 22/Mar/09 with Josh

henbot - TR dog - 17/Mar/09 with Keith Lackie

TheGuns - 2009

adamscottthomas - TR dog - 21/Nov/08 with Pete and Anna

briar4012 - TR dog - 21/Nov/08 with Adam and Pete

Justin T - Lead rpt - 11/Oct/08

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/08

Justin T - Lead dog - 10/Sep/07 with Dave M

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Wire before 1st bolt, did not do last pitch
sebrider - Lead O/S - 2007 with Roby Rudolf

feilx - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Jun/06

Strang both pitches, gear in on P1, P2 onsight.
Paz - Lead β - 07/Jun/06 with AB, AS

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Richard White - Lead O/S - 2006

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2006 with Ben

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/May/05

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Jul/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

E3 6a, 5b (two PRs)
Okecroak - AltLd - 03/Jun/02

Hidden - 2002

CraigMac1 - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000 with Rik Meek

Roget - Lead O/S - 07/May/96 with jon

Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 1996

Most of P1
timreynolds - TR dnf - 19/Mar/95 with Steve Taylor

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/94 with Simon Coles

shark - Lead - 1994

pmot - TR O/S - 1994

was given E2 6c... strange grade...
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

steve taylor - 1993

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/92

Hidden - Lead RP - 1992

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1991

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/90

Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/88 with Karl Strange

Just pitch 1. My first 6a lead.
Nigel Coe - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/88 with Tim Dunsby

shark - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/87 with Nick White

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Apr/87

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Hidden - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Hidden, sebflynn, Sam Falconer, Danhan, JackMac, AJH, Hidden, twright180, Tom_Harding, Phil79, Dave Searle

Voting
Total votes cast 80
hard E30 of 23
E30 of 23
easy E39 of 23
hard E211 of 23
E23 of 23
easy E20 of 23
hard E10 of 23
E10 of 23
easy E10 of 23
hard 6b0 of 26
6b0 of 26
easy 6b0 of 26
hard 6a5 of 26
6a18 of 26
easy 6a3 of 26
hard 5c0 of 26
5c0 of 26
easy 5c0 of 26
3 Stars22 of 31
2 Stars8 of 31
1 Star1 of 31
0 Stars0 of 31
Bag of .....0 of 31
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Style of ascent

Lead126 of 154 (81.8%)
Followed5 of 154 (3.2%)
Toproped14 of 154 (9.1%)
Alt Leads1 of 154 (0.6%)
Unknown8 of 154 (5.2%)

'Climbed'21 of 154 (13.6%)
clean O/S57 of 154 (37.0%)
clean β18 of 154 (11.7%)
clean rpt9 of 154 (5.8%)
clean RP21 of 154 (13.6%)
dogged23 of 154 (14.9%)
dnf5 of 154 (3.2%)