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Cocytus*** E2 6a

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[Cocytus wall, Ansteys Cove, 3 kb]18m, 2 pitches. A superb route featuring two contrasting pitches; the first is technical, and the second steep. Start beneath the slim, smooth corner/groove. 1) 6a 13m. Climb the immaculate, smooth groove past two bolts and swing left at its top to a bolt belay on a sloping ledge. 2) 5b, 15m. Move up left from the ledge, then traverse steeply rightwards to find and use a borehole on a sloping shelf to access the base of a short steep corner. Climb this to the vegetated slope above. Bolt belay in an outcrop over to the right. Abseil off. © ROCKFAX
** RECENTLY RETRO-BOLTED ** Now ~6C with extra bolt at start and before move left to belay. There is also the option of a direct finish at a similar grade, follow the line of bolts above.
FFA. Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 31.5.76. Previously aided. 31/May/1976

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Cocytus wall, Ansteys Cove © quadmyre
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 101 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

P1 to bolt belay, Woke the calves up as warm up route!
drewish - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

bolted 6c ish
jld579 - Lead O/S - May/13

Direct finish this time
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Colin

Wet a bit gopping! Slipped off 1st go
Bristoldave - Lead RP - 09/Mar/13 with Caroline

Finally got to the top of something at anestys :0. first pitch only. So cold
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Colin

Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead rpt - 18/Feb/13 with Stanley

Hidden - 2013

Fell off at very top due to pump and being knackered as end of trip
Ross.Cooper - Lead dog - 18/Nov/12 with Laurence Everitt

I found this hard.I'm climbing way below par.But would have struggled with this even when my fitness and strength was better.
Popkids - TR dog - 18/Nov/12 with Nolan, Pete Saunders

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Ross Cooper

As a 6c+. Luverley
wolverine - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/12 with Chris Hind

Amazing first pitch, best slab route I've done so far!
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Stanley

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Sep/12

Jay Mowat - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Jul/12

one of the only successes of the day. a good pitch, did the bolted continuation to the lower off. would be a gnarly trad lead.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Jordon Fleming

6c+
mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with James Connolly, Rob Tyler, Pete Abernethy

jimmyrua - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with David Brigham

nealepj - Lead dog - 03/Jun/12 with james mann

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/May/12

Hidden - TR dnf - 31/May/12

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 31/May/12

stunning line. I need to work harder.. !!
EcoClimber - TR dog - 23/May/12

1st pitch only.
Oddjob - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Tom

hepitt - Apr/12 with Phillipa Arding, Rob Pitt

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/12

JackHatton - Lead dog - 11/Mar/12 with richy mardell

burto - Lead β - 25/Feb/12 with malc, hertha

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/12

Hidden - TR - 15/Jan/12

M Bryan - TR dog - 30/Oct/11 with Dan Walker, Chris Mock

Jonathan Emett - TR O/S - 08/Sep/11 with toby

Toby Dunn - Lead - 08/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

Pippa - 2nd - 26/Jun/11 with Jon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11

Hidden - TR RP - 15/May/11

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 15/May/11

gear to first bolt already in.
Ben1983 - Lead β - 02/May/11

With pre placed kit
david morse - Lead β - 02/May/11 with tori, todd

Hidden - TR rpt - 07/Nov/10

Did Cocytus/ More Steam link up first. Then This. Shame the draws were in. Used cams at the end.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead β - 06/Nov/10 with Mike Cleverdon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/10 with michael porter

Hidden - TR rpt - 23/Aug/10

Awesome bit of climbing! Hard 5c/soft 6a up to bolt (scary) then some 6a moves around 2nd bolt...nice clutter free climbing.. 3 draws and a sling used! E grade:hard E2 or soft E3...probably more like a badly bolted Fr6c. Tremadog was good prep for this!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Eugenius

Definately badly bolted 6c. Has a traddy feel due to the type of climbing. A crafty slings protects the upper moves. Fell off by second boltas i had my feet in bad positions and couldn't swap. Clean next go though
eugeneth - Lead RP - 15/Aug/10 with Duncan C

1st pitch only. With first bolt pre-clipped..
cornishben - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Pippa Froggatt

raku - Lead dog - 12/Jul/10

Tough for E2. But very good.
sparkass - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Mark Waltham

tom169 - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/10 with Laura

E3 6a in old guide
Chris_barr - Lead β - 09/Apr/10 with Mike

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/10

tom169 - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Henry Irvine

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead β - 20/Sep/09

chris j - Lead rpt - 06/Sep/09 with Josh

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Dave Moir

w.pettet-smith - Lead β - May/09 with josh

The most inspirational line I've ever climbed. I used a clipstick to clip the first bolt...
northnorthnorth - Lead RP - 13/Apr/09 with Henry

chris j - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/09 with Ben Bradford

Lead first pitch only. Clean on 2nd attempt.
chris j - Lead RP - 22/Mar/09 with Josh

henbot - TR dog - 17/Mar/09 with Keith Lackie

TheGuns - 2009

adamscottthomas - TR dog - 21/Nov/08 with Pete and Anna

briar4012 - TR dog - 21/Nov/08 with Adam and Pete

quadmyre - Lead rpt - 11/Oct/08

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/08

quadmyre - Lead dog - 10/Sep/07 with Dave M

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Wire before 1st bolt, did not do last pitch
sebrider - Lead O/S - 2007 with Roby Rudolf

feilx - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Jun/06

Strang both pitches, gear in on P1, P2 onsight.
Paz - Lead β - 07/Jun/06 with AB, AS

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Richard White - Lead O/S - 2006

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2006 with Ben

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/May/05

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Jul/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

E3 6a, 5b (two PRs)
Okecroak - AltLd - 03/Jun/02

CraigMac1 - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000 with Rik Meek

Roget - Lead O/S - 07/May/96 with jon

Most of P1
timreynolds - TR dnf - 19/Mar/95 with Steve Taylor

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/94 with Simon Coles

shark - Lead - 1994

pmot - TR O/S - 1994

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1991

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/90

shark - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/87 with Nick White

Had dogged it previously with Andy Grieve. 21 years later I still dogged it before I got it :-)
Kafoozalem - Lead β - 26/Apr/87 with Graham Butler

Hidden - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Sam Dixon, JackMac, AJH, Hidden, twright180, Tom_Harding, Phil79, Dave Searle

Voting
Total votes cast 57
hard E30 of 18
E30 of 18
easy E37 of 18
hard E28 of 18
E23 of 18
easy E20 of 18
hard E10 of 18
E10 of 18
easy E10 of 18
hard 6b0 of 20
6b0 of 20
easy 6b0 of 20
hard 6a5 of 20
6a13 of 20
easy 6a2 of 20
hard 5c0 of 20
5c0 of 20
easy 5c0 of 20
3 Stars15 of 19
2 Stars4 of 19
1 Star0 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent

Lead77 of 101 (76.2%)
Followed3 of 101 (3.0%)
Toproped14 of 101 (13.9%)
Alt Leads1 of 101 (1.0%)
Unknown6 of 101 (5.9%)

'Climbed'16 of 101 (15.8%)
clean O/S42 of 101 (41.6%)
clean β10 of 101 (9.9%)
clean rpt8 of 101 (7.9%)
clean RP9 of 101 (8.9%)
dogged14 of 101 (13.9%)
dnf2 of 101 (2.0%)