Rockfax Description
Classic fingery flowstone followed by a forearm destroying upper wall. Start just right of an orange streak.
Juggy initial moves quickly access a fingery and technical wall which ends at a small ledge, and a shake out. Climb the pumpy upper wall to a sting in the tail. © Rockfax

FA. Ken Palmer 19.6.87. With most gear from threads. 19/Jun/1987

Ticklists: Torbryan Quarry, The road to 8a, West Country Climbs, Classic UK F7s, South coast sport/DWS ticklist.

J1_TOV 22/Oct Lead dog

Not even close

Hidden 27/Sep Lead dog
Nick Russell 27/Sep Lead dog

Harder than I remember. Dogged up to retrieve draws.

quiffhanger 26/Sep Lead rpt
with Rachel
afrosam 20/Sep Lead RP
with TomJ, Si
Hidden ?/Aug Lead O/S
climbhannahclimb ?/Aug TR dnf
with Tom Simpson
kennythescot 28/Jul Lead RP
John Tanner 28/Jul Lead RP

Forth session on this but worth it!

Hugobristol 27/Jul Lead RP
with Ian
Alex Mason 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Jemma Powell
Hidden 25/Jul Lead RP
dbrooks 06/Jul Lead dog
with Dr Dave
Hidden 21/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jun Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 16/Jun Lead dog
with John Tanner
John Tanner 16/Jun Lead dog
JackMac 11/Jun Lead RP

Smiled the whole way home! So pleased to get this route. Paul's beta made the crux so much easier. With such an effective rest after the crux, I suspect this is 7a+ not 7b.

with Paul Roberts
emdawes 09/Jun Lead RP
jonleighton 28/May Lead RP
oggles 25/May TR RP
with Claudia Hesleden
claudia Hesleden 23/May Lead RP
Ben Russell 21/May Lead RP

Got it clean today. Happy!! This is a such a cool route. Onwards and upwards.

with Elaine, Jacob Straw
Nick Russell 16/May Lead RP

Definitely 3*, really fun climbing on the lower wall. It's almost a shame the rest is so good: I got almost a full recovery before tackling the top section.

Ben Russell 07/May Lead dog

Went bolt to bolt. Will redpoint next time, MAN UP. 11/5/15. Worked lower moves today. Now to be brave and do the whole route. Stoked. 15/5/15. A good date to do it on but Why why why? I didn't do it? Dropped the last move, next session. 7b?

Hidden 30/Apr Lead RP
5210Hill 23/Apr Lead RP
Joe Costello 22/Apr Lead

Brilliant route.

ferdia 12/Apr Lead dog
with James Oswald
JM 12/Apr Lead O/S
with Anna Reiners
James Oswald 12/Apr Lead dog

One to come back for.

with Ferdia
Joedt 05/Apr Lead β
JulesV 04/Apr Lead rpt
lawsy_boy1 ?/Apr Lead RP
Tom Corras ??/2015 Lead RP

2nd go

LeeHogarth ??/2015 Lead RP
ferdia 20/Dec/14 Lead RP

Almost flashed. But.... didn't. Got it second time. Good story.

with Andy
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 04/Nov/14 Lead dog

Fell two moves from the top on second redpoint.

Bristoldave 26/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Derwood
Hidden 26/Oct/14 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead RP
Ed Babs 03/Oct/14 Lead dog

Off after the last bolt on the o/s. Grrr. Defo coming back for this.

with Eddie Young
C coldwell-storry 26/Sep/14 Lead β
with jake Rodgers
Rory Bascombe 09/Sep/14 Lead RP

First redpoint

Hidden 01/Sep/14 TR dog
Ross.Cooper 31/Aug/14 Lead dog

Need to come back with more stamina

Patrick Hill 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hannah Brading 30/Aug/14 Lead RP

Such an amazing feeling clipping the chains ..such a fight right at the top!! Taking 7b for it as thats what it says in the new guide...and I found it pretty hard!! Perhaps low in the grade but its my first :-D and what a cracker of a route!

Jon_Warner 24/Aug/14 Lead RP

Hangover cure!... 6 years after first trying.

with Jenni, Tom
tskelhon 24/Aug/14 Lead dog

Almost retroflashed, messed up sequence just before bolts, not bad for a warm up route

Sophie Nunn 14/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Alex
jas128 05/Aug/14 TR dog
Hidden 05/Aug/14 Lead RP
brices 03/Aug/14 Lead dog

Tried to OS after a long day, great route, no time to finish.

with Llinos
JPGR 31/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Yvette
Sarah Black 25/Jul/14 Lead rpt
alice fuller 10/Jul/14 Lead RP

5th lead attempt.3rd session on it.my 1st 7b... i hope to do more:)

Hannah Brading 06/Jul/14 2nd RP
BenNorman 06/Jul/14 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Mowglee 12/Jun/14 TR dog

Nice moves. Moving over the bulge on the sidepulls feels desperate!

with Ali
hankyc 09/Jun/14 Lead RP

well chuffed first go after bolt to bolt

Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead RP
alek 31/May/14 Lead β
with Will Murray, James Kay
Hidden 26/May/14 -
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead RP
misterb 17/Apr/14 Lead dog

off the last move

with russ, wain
Tim W 13/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Sarah Black 13/Apr/14 Lead RP
Cailean Harker 25/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Amazing and spicy

with Hannah
R2B 19/Mar/14 Lead RP

Crucial shake out in the middle for me.

with Dave
ollie_e 18/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Really great to get this, still pretty pumped at the top!!

chris j ?/Mar/14 Lead rpt
lewisrichardson ??/2014 Lead RP
with dad
Hidden ??/2014 -
tobydunford 08/Dec/13 Lead RP
with Tomar
Chubbard 07/Dec/13 Lead dnf

Could do lower moves but only 2 at a time :(

with Tomar
Hidden 24/Nov/13 TR dog
mikeshewring 23/Nov/13 Lead RP

2nd go

nickstephens 10/Nov/13 Lead dog
gg4419 10/Nov/13 Lead dog


Claudia Harvey 22/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Ramon Marin
chris j 08/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Toby
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead RP
chakrit 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
chrisscutt 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
with oly
ollie_e 26/Aug/13 Lead dog

Last holds!! Heartbreaking, I'll be back.

BenNorman 15/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Fell off the top 3 times, what a joke. Real pumpy even with the rest

mountain_jay 11/Aug/13 Lead dog

was convinced it would go second try... then couldn't dog my way up it! i'll be back. awesome route

quiffhanger 05/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Pleased to get the retro-flash.

with Kate
peteharrison06 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Perfect rock

Hidden 25/Jul/13 Lead RP
Tomar 13/Jul/13 Lead RP

Awesome tufas. Took me way too long to get this tho

with Tris
Tris.w 13/Jul/13 Lead RP

second go, more kalymnos in style than kalymnos!

with Tomar
thomb 03/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Darren
yan hawkins 15/Jun/13 Lead RP
with steve winslow, _m.cox_
Laurence Everitt 31/May/13 Lead RP

really happy to get this, nice intricate side pulls and pockets and a very useful knee bar half way, if your leg is long enough that is. One of my favourite routes so far.

Hidden 31/May/13 Lead β
DorsetGareth 27/May/13 Lead dog

Clipped the last clip, but ran out of oomph.

andy south devon 26/May/13 Lead RP

Great route!!!

chiverstom 26/May/13 Lead dog

A continuation of poor form for the weekend. Awesome route and awesome venue but fell off this twice when it should have been fine. Next time!

with Alice
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead RP
Mike Goldthorp 18/May/13 Lead β

Great route, although I preferred Barney rubble personally. Immaculate rock!

rhoslynfrugtniet 18/May/13 Lead RP
chris j 08/May/13 Lead rpt
with Nick Saunders
Dale Turrell 07/May/13 Lead RP

A long time coming. Did it with a sprained ankle in the end (didn't affect the climbing though). Psyched to have gotten this one!

with Dave
Hidden 06/May/13 TR dog
Dan 85 05/May/13 Lead RP

Bolt to bolt, then first RP

with Andy H, Dave
Ellis Butler-Barker 04/May/13 Lead RP
with JackMac
Hidden 23/Mar/13 Lead dog
Elaine Budden 13/Mar/13 Lead RP
with Keiha
tim exley ?/Mar/13 Lead RP

4 sessions

Hidden 24/Feb/13 TR dog
Jordon Fleming 07/Feb/13 Lead RP

well messed it up first time and fell off the first crux, so finished it and then lowered off. did it clean first redpoint attempt but was pumped; mainly because every other move i had to warm my hands up, on greassy holds! got to love britain, but a totally amazing climb !

Tom Seccombe 06/Feb/13 Lead RP
kingholmesy ??/2013 Lead RP
with Colin
h forrester 1994 ??/2013 Lead rpt
Paul Robertson 29/Nov/12 TR dog
JackMac 20/Oct/12 2nd dog
chris j 25/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Ben Bradford
JackMac 22/Sep/12 2nd dnf
with Andy H
Johnny Baker 13/Sep/12 Lead RP

Finally. About time too seeing as first try was back in '88

andrew hammond 08/Sep/12 Lead RP

made it, 3rd try in all! great route... certainly 7b compared to barney rubble...

Ramon Marin 01/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
Jeronimo 27/Aug/12 Lead β
Ramon Marin 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt

easy 7b

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead dnf
theotherpetehill 26/Aug/12 Lead dog

Spent a while falling off this

with Michelle
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead RP
Carter 01/Jul/12 Lead dog
with Ed
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead RP
burto 29/Jun/12 Lead RP
with jerome
_m.cox_ 23/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Jason Williams
davesimpson 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

First Outside 7a+ and First Onsite 7A+. Sweet

with Dean Russel
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead RP
robbie Warke 16/Mar/12 Lead β

Great route

with Jamie Langler, wendy sampson
highrepute 14/Mar/12 Lead RP
billb ?/Mar/12 Lead

1st rp - Brilliant route!

with Graham A
AJM 26/Feb/12 Lead RP

Ace route!

Chubbard 26/Feb/12 TR dog
with AJM
tom harrison ??/2012 Lead
andy south devon ??/2012 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2012 -
tedj234 29/Oct/11 Lead RP
davidliu 29/Oct/11 Lead RP
Elaine Budden 16/Oct/11 TR dog

amazing climb! shall lead it one day!

El3ctroFuzz 16/Oct/11 Lead RP

Dogged up once and worked the moves. Then sent 1st redpoint.

with Elaine Budden
derico 16/Oct/11 Lead β
with Sadact, Tom
Sophie Nunn 10/Oct/11 2nd dnf
with Toby
Jonathan Emett 04/Sep/11 TR dnf

worked the crux.

with toby
Hidden 22/Aug/11 Lead dog
Rob Pitt 15/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Nick Arding
felixthelion 12/Aug/11 Lead RP

Brilliant, as good as anything i have done in Europe. First RP. Definitely 7b. Harder than empire of the sun. Didn't get the amazing rest after crux but even if i had this would still be 7b. As hard as any 7b i have done.

with Dan craig
Pete Scott 09/Aug/11 Lead RP

Unfortunately got it on my first lead attempt. Wish I could have spent more time on it!

dmoir 01/Aug/11 Lead β
with Will Murray
Hidden ?/Aug/11 TR RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
quiffhanger 30/Jul/11 Lead RP
Bristoldave 11/Jun/11 Lead RP

2nd rp

with Cusco
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead RP
John Henry Wynn 31/May/11 -
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead rpt
Kevster 15/May/11 Lead RP
chris j 11/May/11 Lead rpt
marcpontin ?/May/11 Lead RP
with huw
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead RP
Rob Pitt 18/Apr/11 Lead dog

Tried onsight & muffed it. Worked it but was then too knackered for top move on redpoint.

with Nick Saunders
richiebongo 11/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Nick Smith
Hidden 11/Apr/11 Lead RP
adam cooper*super* 02/Apr/11 Lead RP
richiebongo 21/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Gwen Thomson
Hidden 12/Jan/11 Lead dog
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Nov/10 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Oct/10 Lead dog
Pippa 23/Oct/10 Lead
with Jon
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Oct/10 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Oct/10 -
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/Sep/10 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/Sep/10 TR dog
jacobjacob 14/Sep/10 Lead β

had a truly awful awful sequence on the crux that involved a wild slap with powerscream sound-effects, then watched Jenni walk up it, must try harder.

Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 10/Sep/10 Lead
with Sophie Nunn
georgel 30/Aug/10 Lead dog

Need to finish this off

with will
i_a_coops 30/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Jacob
John Henry Wynn 29/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Simon Downing
dan gibson 29/Aug/10 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 09/Aug/10 Lead dog
Wendy 31/Jul/10 Lead RP

1 go top rope a few weeks ago then 2nd go on lead

with Tom Ball
colesy 11/Jul/10 Lead RP

Got it second go, should have got it OS but slipped on the final move of the crux, gutted!

Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead RP
Brian H ?/Jul/10 Lead RP
thomb 24/Jun/10 Lead
with Darren
Gingerdarren 23/Jun/10 Lead rpt

tis done! at last I can move on to Ansteys!

with Nate Bastian
Dandan82 19/Jun/10 Lead RP

Amazing route, possibly the best at the grade I have climbed so far, great moves on funky rock, easy (ish) when you know how.

eddy-on-the-rocks 12/Jun/10 Lead rpt


with Geoff
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 31/May/10 TR dog
tom169 18/May/10 Lead RP
with Paul
Jack_F 10/May/10 Lead RP

Had two goes at it throughout 2 weeks and nailed it on the thrid attempt......First 7b says it in the guide

with Adam copper *super*
Peterjuliandawson 02/May/10 Lead RP

amazing the best 7a+ in south west i fink

alaan 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead
John Henry Wynn 10/Mar/10 -

really exciting crux then really flowy sequential moves to the top.....quality route

Will_Murray ?/Mar/10 Lead RP

my first 7a!

Hidden ??/2010 -
Garrouli ??/2010 Lead RP
with Mark
catt 04/Oct/09 Lead RP

Does the good rest make this only hard 7a+ and not 7b? Who cares, it's excellent, go do it.

with Richie
Luke d 04/Oct/09 Lead RP
nblackbeard 03/Oct/09 Lead RP
with Tom Grant, Darren Russell
w.pettet-smith 25/Sep/09 Lead RP

took a few goes, lower crux very sequency- easy when you know how! with the top just keep going.

with steve
John Henry Wynn 12/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Simon Downing
chris j 04/Sep/09 Lead RP

Great no hands rest on the ledge if you're cunning. Moves feel much easier to me than Little White Lie - I can hardly touch that one at the mo...

with Josh
natalietanzer 29/Aug/09 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Aug/09 2nd
Jon_Warner 08/Jul/09 2nd dog

Felt a way off at the time. Possible now I think.

with Tom
Oli 03/Jul/09 Lead RP


henbot 16/Jun/09 TR dog

Dogged through the crux and climbed the rest above. amazing route

with Ben Bradford
Hidden 09/Jun/09 Lead RP
Justin T 09/May/09 Lead RP

Nice to get back to Torbryan after a long while ... holds feeling bigger after a bit of training! To answer the query below about 7b votes it feels harder to me overall than either Vicious Delicious or Little White Lie and certainly taken more attempts to get it (partly because I was trying to use a rubbish method for the crux).

Luke Dawson 02/May/09 Lead RP
w.pettet-smith ?/May/09 Lead dog

fluffed the lower hard bit on the onsight- which fluting to go for!? once sussed, cracked on with the onsight mentality, didn't see the last bolt, just made a bee line for the lower off, thinking the climbing was easing. hand popped off, boshed myself in the nose and split it, took a huge 40ft+ fall and screamed a bit.next time for sure.

with josh
nblackbeard 02/Apr/09 Lead dog
jw231 02/Apr/09 TR dog
sebrider ??/2009 Lead dog

Too pumpy to get clean, really nice moves though

with Joe Doyle
jld579 ??/2009 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 27/Dec/08 TR dog

A couple of very tough moves. One to come back to

with Mark Glaister
shark 27/Dec/08 Lead β

Pleased to flash this all things considered - had failed on RP at last move in 1993 !

with Mark Glaister + John from Wellington
Dave Searle 24/Nov/08 Lead RP

was quite cold but really really good route!

with Dave henderson
eddieclimb 25/Aug/08 Lead RP


with Rebecca Edwards
Richard Horn 03/Aug/08 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jul/08 Lead RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Not sure why this is getting lots of 7b votes, as there's a brilliant rest in the middle.

with Dave Ferguson
richardr ?/Jul/08 Lead dog

Wimped out and grabbed the last draw! Next time

sharmawho? 08/Jun/08 TR dog
with Dave
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead RP
feilx 01/Jun/08 Lead dog

amazing and nails. i'll be back

with Phil Davis
dannyboy83 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead RP
hippo99 ?/May/08 Lead RP
with roby rudolf, joe doyle, tom worall
_m.cox_ ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Prajak
Jake Shaw ??/2008 Lead RP
with Iain
JeromeT ??/2008 Lead RP
nawface ??/2008 -
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Lead RP
Marti999 03/Jul/07 Lead
bigie bob 12/May/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead RP
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead RP
westyb3 ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Andy long
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln ??/2001 Lead
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Dringo ??/2000 -
sadams 20/Jun/98 Lead
with Andy Long
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
phardman 08/Feb/97 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??/1997 -
Davros the Psyched ??/1997 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Aug/95 Lead dog
Dave Musgrove Jnr 07/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 07/Jul/95 2nd
with David
Hidden ??/1994 Lead RP
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 Lead RP
mattnuttall 10/Aug/93 Lead O/S

E5 back in the day

with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
keefe 30/Aug/92 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 30/Aug/92 -
with keefe
Nick Biven ??/1992 -
Hidden 08/Sep/91 Lead β
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High 7b+
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Votes cast 118
Votes cast 97
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set