Rockfax Description
An impressive wall-climb that is endowed with good holds. Start below the upper end of a low, left-trending crack in the centre of the wall.
Climb steeply through the lower bulge via a horizontal crack at 3m to better holds on the wall above. Continue to a left-trending crack and take the wall above it rightwards to a peg. Trend left up the easier wall to the large break of The Smile and finish up the thin finger-cracks above (as for The Smile). © Rockfax

FA. Clarke Alston 23.8.87 23/Aug/1987

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

climbhannahclimb 16/Oct 2nd O/S
with Jack Gray
Jackislav ?/Oct Lead O/S

Fantastic from start to finish, very loose block that looks like a nice jug about the size of a car battery, seems fine to stand on and pull down on. Would be a poo pants moment if you chose to lay-back on it though!

redjerry 02/Sep TR O/S
with Robert Duran
Adam Booth 21/Jul Lead O/S

Following a pretty rubbish description, so no idea if I was on the right route! Whatever it was, amazing climbing (typical sharpnose) but I think harder than 5b, especially the start (which was bold too).

Ed Booth 21/Jul 2nd O/S

good as always on this crag

Tom Seccombe 18/Jul Lead O/S
with Harvey
papashango 17/Jul 2nd β
with PJ
robgixer 16/Jul Lead O/S
pete johnson 16/Jul Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 10/Jul Lead O/S

Another sick route at sharpnose!

benkelsey 10/Jul 2nd O/S

Warm down to escape tide, pleasant.

with Shaun Humphreys
willackers 06/Jun Lead O/S

Another good route.

with Rob Napier
phil64 28/May 2nd O/S

great lead by Ali as the tide raced in , exciting hanging belay above the sea

with Ali Taylor
Spearos 25/May Lead dog
with Riggo
ollie_e 09/May Lead O/S
red_rhodesha 09/May 2nd
Hidden 14/Apr Lead O/S
Andy Moles 09/Apr Lead O/S
with James Oswald
ian bryant ??/2015 -
winter hill1 25/Nov/14 2nd
Matthew Robinson 24/Nov/14 Lead
with Cath
ferdia 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Burton
burto 14/Sep/14 2nd
with ferdia
1poundSOCKS 03/Aug/14 2nd β

The crux is the start, and there are a few sustained sections, but plenty of rests. Well protected throughout, and a lovely rusty peg for historical interest.

richiebongo 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mat Coburn
EmilyElouise 24/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Sarah Black 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Mr Tickle 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Great climb, with a tough start

with RusseyB
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
markalmack 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with james marjot
tash 31/May/14 2nd dnf

Couldn't get off the ground! No strength after a year off. Thankfully the tide was out so I could scramble back around to the top!

Popkids 04/May/14 2nd O/S
with Kafoozalem
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Colin
mike mo ??/2014 -
jamesturnbull 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with neil mcadie
R2B 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Not a bad line. Start was still a bit wet. I thought the hardest move was coming out of 'The Smile' break and into the crack system, which gets 5a...

with Justin
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Justin T 06/Oct/13 2nd
with Russ
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Ed Babs 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 20/Sep/13 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 24/Aug/13 2nd
Matthew Robinson 06/Aug/13 Lead
with Nico
mike lawrence? 27/Jun/13 Lead

Start much harder than the rest which has fab holds, finished in the rain but rock still bone dry. Really nice climb.

with FatRob
Dave Rumney 25/May/13 Lead

very good

with Tanya Milner
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Jim
Hidden 30/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Jim Brooke 12/May/12 2nd O/S
with Pip, Rich
Graham Atkins 12/May/12 Lead
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Pippa 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/12 2nd
Brian H 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Newman
ellis 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead
Marti999 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR
tim exley 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S

pumped out my brain, good rest in the middle. lot of rope drag wit single rope

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 17/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead
alice fuller 15/Sep/11 2nd β

By an easier start. Lovely route. Repeated 4/5/14 by proper (campus) start.

mark20 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Better than Last Laugh

CRiddiford 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S

tough start if you prefer footholds to campusing!

with Mark
Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Fran S8 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/11 2nd
Tim M 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Very damp start. One of those nice fluted holds snapped off (maybe more fragile when wet?) but managed to stay on.

with Emma
climbergg 31/Jul/11 2nd
dannyboy83 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dad
chris j 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Ben Bradford
Jon_Warner 04/Jun/11 2nd RP

After bailing on the lead. Unbalanced route with a hard (esp. if greasy) start.

with Tom
tskelhon 04/Jun/11 Lead β

Good route after Jon Sh@t me up nearly decking!

Neil Adams 25/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice climbing but absolutely baltic in the wind!

jameshiggins 25/May/11 2nd O/S


with Neil Adams
Hidden 24/May/11 Lead O/S
Fultonius 24/May/11 2nd
davesykes 30/Apr/11 Lead

found the smile bit the hardest - climbed with emmy and rich

with emmy
liamoloughlin 24/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 03/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with nick
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
tobydunford 07/Nov/10 2nd O/S
feilx 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
chris j 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Bradford
Chris_barr 05/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
andysroom ?/Aug/07 2nd dog
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Mark Kemball 21/Dec/06 Lead rpt
with Lee Bartrop
chris j 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Bradford
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
Mark Kemball 06/Oct/04 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden 11/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Lee_Meaden, Oddjob, Hidden, Ian Jones
High E3
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Votes cast 36
High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 33
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set