Misery Goat** E2 5b
[Martin Slater near the top of Misery Goat, 2 kb]25m.

Rockfax Description
An impressive wall-climb that is endowed with good holds. Start below the upper end of a low, left-trending crack in the centre of the wall.
Climb steeply through the lower bulge via a horizontal crack at 3m to better holds on the wall above. Continue to a left-trending crack and take the wall above it rightwards to a peg. Trend left up the easier wall to the large break of The Smile and finish up the thin finger-cracks above (as for The Smile). © ROCKFAX


FA. Clarke Alston 23.8.87 23/Aug/1987

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Martin Slater near the top of Misery Goat © Rik
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 97 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Following a pretty rubbish description, so no idea if I was on the right route! Whatever it was, amazing climbing (typical sharpnose) but I think harder than 5b, especially the start (which was bold too).
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/15 with Ed Booth

Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15 with Harvey

papashango - 2nd β - 17/Jul/15 with PJ

robgixer - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/15

pete johnson - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/15 with Conor Shepherd

Another sick route at sharpnose!
shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/15 with benkelsey

Warm down to escape tide, pleasant.
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/15 with Shaun Humphreys

Another good route.
willackers - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Rob Napier

great lead by Ali as the tide raced in , exciting hanging belay above the sea
phil64 - 2nd O/S - 28/May/15 with Ali Taylor

Spearos - Lead dog - 25/May/15 with Riggo

ollie_e - Lead O/S - 09/May/15 with ro jones

red_rhodesha - 2nd - 09/May/15 with Ollie Elms

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/15

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/15 with James Oswald

ian bryant - 2015

winter hill1 - 2nd - 25/Nov/14

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 24/Nov/14 with Cath

ferdia - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Burton

burto - 2nd - 14/Sep/14 with ferdia

The crux is the start, and there are a few sustained sections, but plenty of rests. Well protected throughout, and a lovely rusty peg for historical interest.
1poundSOCKS - 2nd β - 03/Aug/14

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Mat Coburn

EmilyElouise - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14

Sarah Black - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Paul Black

Great climb, with a tough start
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with RusseyB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

markalmack - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with james marjot

Couldn't get off the ground! No strength after a year off. Thankfully the tide was out so I could scramble back around to the top!
tash - 2nd dnf - 31/May/14

Popkids - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14 with Kafoozalem

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2014 with Colin

mike mo - 2014

jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/13 with neil mcadie

Not a bad line. Start was still a bit wet. I thought the hardest move was coming out of 'The Smile' break and into the crack system, which gets 5a...
R2B - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Justin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13

Justin T - 2nd - 06/Oct/13 with Russ

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/13

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13 with AlexD

AlexD - 2nd - 20/Sep/13 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Aug/13

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 06/Aug/13 with Nico

Start much harder than the rest which has fab holds, finished in the rain but rock still bone dry. Really nice climb.
mike lawrence? - Lead - 27/Jun/13 with FatRob

very good
Dave Rumney - Lead - 25/May/13 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12 with Jim

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/12

Jim Brooke - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Pip, Rich

Graham Atkins - Lead - 12/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

Pippa - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Jim Brooke, Richard

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/12

Brian H - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Paul Newman

ellis - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Rich Cross

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Mick Ward

Hidden - TR - 24/Mar/12

pumped out my brain, good rest in the middle. lot of rope drag wit single rope
tim exley - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Tom Secombe

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/11

By an easier start. Lovely route. Repeated 4/5/14 by proper (campus) start.
alice fuller - 2nd β - 15/Sep/11 with kafoozalem

Better than Last Laugh
mark20 - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/11

tough start if you prefer footholds to campusing!
CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

Fran S8 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11 with john nightingale

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Aug/11

Very damp start. One of those nice fluted holds snapped off (maybe more fragile when wet?) but managed to stay on.
Tim M - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 31/Jul/11 with cheesesarnie

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Dad

chris j - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/11 with Ben Bradford

After bailing on the lead. Unbalanced route with a hard (esp. if greasy) start.
Jon_Warner - 2nd RP - 04/Jun/11 with Tom

Good route after Jon Sh@t me up nearly decking!
tskelhon - Lead β - 04/Jun/11 with John_Warner

Nice climbing but absolutely baltic in the wind!
Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 25/May/11 with Jim Higgins

Cold!
jameshiggins - 2nd O/S - 25/May/11 with Neil Adams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/11

Fultonius - 2nd - 24/May/11

found the smile bit the hardest - climbed with emmy and rich
davesykes - Lead - 30/Apr/11 with emmy

liamoloughlin - 2nd - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/11 with nick

Rory Shaw - 2011

tobydunford - 2nd O/S - 07/Nov/10

feilx - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Heather

chris j - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Ben Bradford

Chris_barr - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/09 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/09

andysroom - 2nd dog - Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jul/07

Hidden - 2007

Mark Kemball - Lead rpt - 21/Dec/06 with Lee Bartrop

chris j - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

Dave-Westlake - 2006

Mark Kemball - Lead - 06/Oct/04 with Lee Bartrop

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/98

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lee_Meaden, Oddjob, Ian Jones

Voting
Total votes cast 96
hard E30 of 35
E30 of 35
easy E30 of 35
hard E23 of 35
E222 of 35
easy E210 of 35
hard E10 of 35
E10 of 35
easy E10 of 35
hard 5c0 of 32
5c4 of 32
easy 5c12 of 32
hard 5b14 of 32
5b1 of 32
easy 5b1 of 32
hard 5a0 of 32
5a0 of 32
easy 5a0 of 32
3 Stars4 of 29
2 Stars21 of 29
1 Star4 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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