Rockfax Description
Another great pitch taking a direct line up the wall passing the break of The Smile. Start 4m right of the boulder at the start of Diamond Smiles.
Move up the wall to a good nut-placement in a pocket at 4m and continue to the wide break of The Smile. Move left and follow a faint line of weakness rightwards up the vertical wall to another diagonal break. Move left along the break to a brown stained widening of the break and take the left leading crack above it to the top. © Rockfax

FA. M. Hardwicke 15.5.86 15/May/1986

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

papashango 18/Jul 2nd β
with PJ
pete johnson 17/Jul Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 10/Jul Lead O/S

Stupidly decided to do as a warm up! so much harder than diamond smiles!! felt sustained from the break pretty much to the top and didnt think i had enough to top out!! amazing route tho again!

benkelsey 10/Jul 2nd O/S

Not a good warm up! Pretty sustained from the smile break til the top. Good lead!

with Shaun Humphreys
phil64 28/May Lead

An outstanding pitch, quality climbing, runout start, sustained climbing to a great sequence on the upper wall. A full grade harder then Diamond Smile!

with Ali Taylor
ollie_e 10/May Lead dog

Seeing this is E4 on here makes sense - gets E3 in the West Country Climbs guide, pretty sure this is a slight variation on the E4 line, which goes direct with some fingery moves, ignoring the jug and horizontal cracking out right. Last route of the day and wasn't expect a fight like this! Peeled off going to the brows break, finished it up after that.

Adam Booth 10/May 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 10/May Lead O/S

Went a bit more direct in the middle and at the top. Not sure if I was straying more on the line of Mustard but need to look at definitive guide.

red_rhodesha 10/May 2nd
Hidden 09/May Lead O/S
brices 09/May 2nd β

Last route of the day, few good pulls needed on this

tobydunford 09/May Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Llinos C 09/May Lead
with Remus Knowles, Simon Brice
London Luke 04/May Lead dnf

Took a 8 meter fall about 2/3 of the way up

ferdia 06/Apr 2nd
with Burton
burto 06/Apr Lead O/S
with ferdia, hertha
ian bryant ??/2015 -
pete johnson ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 23/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
Hidden 30/Jul/14 Lead rpt
alice fuller 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
tim newton 02/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd dog
Justin T 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Good route, accidentally started up Wraith instead, line on the upper wall is confusing - following chalked holds I ended up coming into the sandy hole bit from below rather than along the break. Mild panic on top section having dumped all my large gear into the first half, Russ kindly provided air support with cams from above to finish it off without gibbering too much...

with Nancy
markalmack 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with james marjot
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Colin
mike mo ??/2014 -
Ed Babs 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 20/Sep/13 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 20/Sep/12 2nd rpt
eddy-on-the-rocks 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Climbed the smile to the break so not a proper ascent. Good fun.

with ollie
Hidden 28/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Ramon Marin 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with ciaran tracey
nick arding 25/May/12 Lead β
with ben bradford
Jim Brooke 12/May/12 2nd dnf

today's warm up was probably the hardest trad route I've attempted

with Pip, Rich
Pippa 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Brian H 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 26/Feb/12 2nd
with Ben Silvestre
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 17/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Not E4!

soph ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
JRae 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/11 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd
dannyboy83 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dad
chris j 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Ben Bradford
Neil Adams 27/May/11 Lead O/S
jameshiggins 27/May/11 2nd O/S

Slightly harder than Diamond Smile, though I think the guidebook grade of E3 5C is still fair.

with Neil Adams
ellis 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Alan Willoner, Tom Bridgeland
pezzerrr 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
chris j 27/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Started up Diamond Smile to first break, so only E3 for me.

with Ben Bradford
Alex Mason 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Bold start, then a wicked tehnical upper wall. Felt E4 compared to break on through.

with Mikey G
Toby Dunn 14/Apr/09 Lead
with Alex Hughes
Toby Dunn 04/Apr/09 2nd
with Alex Hughes
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
sara n 10/Oct/08 TR
with Neville Contractor
Steve Crowe 17/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Paz 27/Aug/07 2nd β

With a 6 limpets on a rock in my shoe on my harness. Five minutes or so in a hot oven and their weight was well worth it for their taste.

with AB
Hidden 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S
ecowaller ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
westaway ??/2005 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 30/Sep/04 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
cornishben ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
Hidden 16/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Roget 16/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 28/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Jim Cheshire
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 -
with Dave Henderson
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/93 Lead
with Phil Baker
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
phil64, Kipper-Phil Smith, Hidden, alexjz, RFWilkie, Ropeboy, Ian Jones, Rowansb, Hidden, Hidden, pmot
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 24
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set