Crooked Mile** E3 5c
[Gurning hard on Crooked Mile (E4 6a), 3 kb]30m.

Rockfax Description
Another great pitch taking a direct line up the wall passing the break of The Smile. Start 4m right of the boulder at the start of Diamond Smiles.
Move up the wall to a good nut-placement in a pocket at 4m and continue to the wide break of The Smile. Move left and follow a faint line of weakness rightwards up the vertical wall to another diagonal break. Move left along the break to a brown stained widening of the break and take the left leading crack above it to the top. © ROCKFAX

FA. M. Hardwicke 15.5.86 15/May/1986

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Gurning hard on Crooked Mile (E4 6a) © Sue Hazel
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 80 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

papashango - 2nd β - 18/Jul/15 with PJ

pete johnson - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/15 with Conor Shepherd

Stupidly decided to do as a warm up! so much harder than diamond smiles!! felt sustained from the break pretty much to the top and didnt think i had enough to top out!! amazing route tho again!
shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/15 with benkelsey

Not a good warm up! Pretty sustained from the smile break til the top. Good lead!
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/15 with Shaun Humphreys

An outstanding pitch, quality climbing, runout start, sustained climbing to a great sequence on the upper wall. A full grade harder then Diamond Smile!
phil64 - Lead - 28/May/15 with Ali Taylor

Seeing this is E4 on here makes sense - gets E3 in the West Country Climbs guide, pretty sure this is a slight variation on the E4 line, which goes direct with some fingery moves, ignoring the jug and horizontal cracking out right. Last route of the day and wasn't expect a fight like this! Peeled off going to the brows break, finished it up after that.
ollie_e - Lead dog - 10/May/15 with ro jones

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 10/May/15 with Ed Booth

Went a bit more direct in the middle and at the top. Not sure if I was straying more on the line of Mustard but need to look at definitive guide.
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with Adam Booth

red_rhodesha - 2nd - 10/May/15 with Ollie Elms

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/15

Last route of the day, few good pulls needed on this
brices - 2nd β - 09/May/15 with Remus, Llinos

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 09/May/15 with Harry Martin

Llinos C - Lead - 09/May/15 with Remus Knowles, Simon Brice

Took a 8 meter fall about 2/3 of the way up
London Luke - Lead dnf - 04/May/15 with Tim O'hannaran

ferdia - 2nd - 06/Apr/15 with Burton

burto - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15 with ferdia, hertha

ian bryant - 2015

pete johnson - Lead O/S - 2015 with Conor Shepherd


Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14

tash - 2nd - 23/Aug/14 with ali k

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/14

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/14 with jon stewart

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/14

Good route, accidentally started up Wraith instead, line on the upper wall is confusing - following chalked holds I ended up coming into the sandy hole bit from below rather than along the break. Mild panic on top section having dumped all my large gear into the first half, Russ kindly provided air support with cams from above to finish it off without gibbering too much...
Justin T - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Nancy

markalmack - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with james marjot

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2014 with Colin

mike mo - 2014

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13 with AlexD

AlexD - 2nd - 20/Sep/13 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Sep/12

Climbed the smile to the break so not a proper ascent. Good fun.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12 with ollie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/12

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with ciaran tracey

nick arding - Lead β - 25/May/12 with ben bradford

today's warm up was probably the hardest trad route I've attempted
Jim Brooke - 2nd dnf - 12/May/12 with Pip, Rich

Pippa - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Jim Brooke, Richard

Brian H - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Kafoozalem, Rik

Pete Graham - 2nd - 26/Feb/12 with Ben Silvestre

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/11

Not E4!
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with FlyingSaucerAttack

soph - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Helena Robinson

JRae - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/11 with M Watson

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/11

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/11 with Dad

chris j - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/11 with Ben Bradford

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Jim Higgins

Slightly harder than Diamond Smile, though I think the guidebook grade of E3 5C is still fair.
jameshiggins - 2nd O/S - 27/May/11 with Neil Adams

ellis - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Alan Willoner, Tom Bridgeland

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

mwatson - 2011

Started up Diamond Smile to first break, so only E3 for me.
chris j - Lead rpt - 27/Sep/10 with Ben Bradford

Bold start, then a wicked tehnical upper wall. Felt E4 compared to break on through.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10 with Mikey G

Toby Dunn - Lead - 14/Apr/09 with Alex Hughes

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 04/Apr/09 with Alex Hughes

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/09

sara n - TR - 10/Oct/08 with Neville Contractor

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/07 with KM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07

With a 6 limpets on a rock in my shoe on my harness. Five minutes or so in a hot oven and their weight was well worth it for their taste.
Paz - 2nd β - 27/Aug/07 with AB

Southern Mark Smith - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/07 with Toby

ecowaller - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Dave-Westlake - 2006

westaway - Lead O/S - 2005

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2005

Mark Kemball - Lead - 30/Sep/04 with Lee Bartrop

cornishben - 2nd O/S - Aug/04 with Mike Raine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/97

Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/95 with Jim Cheshire

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 05/Aug/93 with Phil Baker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
phil64, Kipper-Phil Smith, alexjz, RFWilkie, Ropeboy, Ian Jones, Rowansb, pmot

Total votes cast 72
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