Rockfax Description
Enjoyable, well-protected wall climbing. Start at a thin line that leads up to the break of The Smile.
Climb the thin line direct to the break of The Smile and move up to a good horizontal crack. Climb the fine wall above past two pegs to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Nick White 23.3.87 23/Mar/1987

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Davros the Psyched 01/Nov Lead β

On Luke's gear

with Luke
chrisdevon 12/Oct 2nd dog
with Dan Arkle
Hidden 08/Sep Lead RP
Alex moore 18/Jul Lead O/S
willackers 06/Jun Lead O/S

Got pumped. Got the fear. Shambles

with Rob Napier
phil64 26/May Lead O/S

went a bit far left at top and somehow climbed left of the first peg so couldnt clip that. Why does the rockfax have the line and the grade wrong in their SW climbs?

Adam Booth 11/May 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 11/May Lead O/S
brices 10/May Lead O/S

A lot more involving than other routes here with lots of fiddly gear, feels harder than pacemaker to me. Great finishing moves

Andy Moles 06/Apr 2nd

* at Sharpnose = *** most places.

with Ferdia
ferdia 06/Apr Lead O/S

awesome fun. the difficulty gradually builds to a cruxy finish.

with Andy
Shauna 05/Apr 2nd
with Jules
JulesV 05/Apr Lead O/S

Pleased with this as second trad route of the year. Made more exciting by incoming tide and taped up finger which kept bleeding all over the holds!

ian bryant ??/2015 -
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Colin, Davros the Psyched
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 23/Aug/14 2nd

Not the route we'd intended but more amazing rock nonetheless.

with ali k
Ed Babs 16/Aug/14 Lead RP

Fell off after the long move yesterday so had to go back. : )

with AlexD
AlexD 16/Aug/14 2nd
with Ed
Alex Mason 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great fun. A very long move to finish, but safe enough.

with Jemma Powell
irish paul 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
alice fuller 09/May/14 TR O/S

really pleased to onsight this, Probably bec ken was belaying:).ok -only on top rope, but great climb

with Ken Palmer
Luxulyan 05/May/14 Lead β
with Tim
tim.fairhall 05/May/14 2nd O/S
with Richard
Justin T 06/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Onsight to within a few feet of top... a little unfair for e4 imho.

with Nancy
Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 08/Aug/13 Lead β

Running out of time and tired arms meant I abbed the line quickly and stuck most of the gear in. Regretted the decision immediately as it just felt wrong on a trad route! Still, incredible route and what a finish!

Dan Lane 08/Aug/13 2nd dog

Somewhat desperate, i'd not want to do the last move on lead, that's for sure!

Hidden 08/Jul/13 2nd β
Mike W 08/Jul/13 Lead RP
with bigrob
Hidden 22/May/13 TR
Joel Perkin 22/May/13 TR dnf

Couldn't make the last move.

Rob84 05/May/13 2nd dog
with Rob Greenwood
mike lawrence? 13/Apr/13 2nd
with FatRob
ejected ??/2013 -

Soft touch, probably closer to E3 than E5

cymjt ??/2013 -
Hidden 19/Sep/12 TR rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/12 2nd
Mike W 20/Jun/12 Lead dnf
ellis 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
alaan 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Will
john nightingale 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Fran S8 08/Aug/11 2nd
miastacey ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
dannyboy83 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Great cruxy finish

with Dad
Hidden 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Awesome but v. hard top tho maybe went wrong way?

thomasadixon 26/Jun/11 Lead RP

Tried previously in 8/10 but it rained/I wussed out. Felt so easy this time! Good climbing, decent rests, crux at the top, wicked route.

with Mike
pezzerrr 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 16/Apr/11 2nd
mwatson ??/2011 Lead O/S

did with a massive hangover, thought i'd probably just fall but got up it fine

Hidden 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S
chris j 27/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Last moves are desperate! I need longer arms...

with Ben Bradford
Brown 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Lepesant
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Toby Dunn 04/Apr/09 Lead
with Alex Hughes
Hidden ??/2009 TR O/S
sara n 10/Oct/08 TR
with Neville Contractor
Hidden 06/Sep/08 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Sep/07 Lead β
Marti999 07/Jun/07 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
bronsonite 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Barrans
andi turner 28/May/06 Lead O/S

Very steady at the grade, the pegs are good, but reach is useful!

with grimer
Dave-Westlake ??/2006 -
westaway ??/2005 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
with nick warren
_m.cox_ ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Mark Kemball 19/Oct/02 2nd
with Lee Bartrop
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 -
Hidden 24/Aug/97 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Roget 16/Jun/97 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 19/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
phil64, mike mo, brices, Kipper-Phil Smith, Hidden, Hidden, chris j, Hidden
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 35
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set